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    Results 441 to 460 of 614
    1. #441
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Posts
      3
      Country Flag: United States
      discovered this thread and spent two hours combing through it start to finish, I'm totally blown away by your skill and dedication. this is stunning craftsmanship... maybe some insanity too... but either way now I'm subscribed to see if it ever gets finished so I'm complicit : )
      sincere best of luck, I can't wait for the day your beast rolls down the highway!



    2. #442
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Thanks!
      Well, I guess it's more insanity than craftmanship. Learning by doing, but you must be insane doing it... ;)



      Some minor updates...
      Bought parts for the electrical system... Vehicle spec wires with extra thin insulation (to save weight). Roughly 6 miles of cable, alot more colors than shown on the pic. Shrink tube, braided sleeving, more shrink tube, shrink tube with glue, more braided sleeving, shrink tube for DYMO-printer so I can print labels for each connector, connectors... and alot of other stuff...






      Twisting most of the sender cables. It's good for interference, but it's also easy for identifcation when the cables are locked together.


      The three most important parts in this system:

      DTA ECU for the engine, Racepak Smartwire for the rest of it.




      Third, a DTA dash. CAN-connection between ECU and dash and almost endless possibilities to view information.

    3. #443
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Bought a shifter knob with a Go-baby-go-button on it. Not sure what I'm using the button for yet, but I definitely didn't want a visible cable along the shifter. Drilled through the entire shaft. Cromed and quite hard, even though it was chinese steel.


      Assembled with shrink wrap and a zip tie to protect and lock the cable. Realized that the shifter doesn't have a boot to protect from dust...


      Soooo.... in the mill...


      A couple of minutes later I had a flange to hold a boot.


      Some paint, shortened bolts and some tape on top of it to protect the thread holes from dust.


      T56 boot from GM fits perfect.


      Also mounted the boot on the trans tunnel. First time actually and it feels kind of luxury - I drove it like four seasons without it actually.

    4. #444
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden

      The number of cables are adding up quickly.




      Devil is in the details... Ordered shrink tube for DYMO-printers to be able to ID all connectors. Looks good, and serious.



      Just an example: Most of the cables are twisted not only avoid interference, but also to keep them together in the looms. Added extra isolation at the connector to make sure it's water sealed. My cables are thin wall, so the weather pack sealings does not always fit.

      When that's finished, it's either heat insulation (picture) or braided sleeving to cover them. With a small piece of shrink tube in the end, of course.
      It's taking a serious amount of time, but result is good.

      The picture shows the contact for the reverse light contact on the T56.

    5. #445
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, BC
      Posts
      125
      Country Flag: Canada
      Better than OEM! Love every update to your build thread.. they just can't come quick enough!
      1972 Nova, forged LQ4 with twin 6466's, T56 Magnum, OEM subframe w/ Speedtech front, Chassisworks gLink rear, Ridetech coils & Wilwoods, with a rear floater in the works --> http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...1972-nova.html

    6. #446
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Posts
      164
      Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post

      The number of cables are adding up quickly.




      Devil is in the details... Ordered shrink tube for DYMO-printers to be able to ID all connectors. Looks good, and serious.



      Just an example: Most of the cables are twisted not only avoid interference, but also to keep them together in the looms. Added extra isolation at the connector to make sure it's water sealed. My cables are thin wall, so the weather pack sealings does not always fit.

      When that's finished, it's either heat insulation (picture) or braided sleeving to cover them. With a small piece of shrink tube in the end, of course.
      It's taking a serious amount of time, but result is good.

      The picture shows the contact for the reverse light contact on the T56.
      Which Dymo printer do you have? Does the print smear or come off with solvents or gas?

    7. #447
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Brisbane Australia
      Posts
      410
      Country Flag: Australia
      I love every update you post
      Hot rodder's recycle, wheres those prius' going when the tree huggers have a new fad.

    8. #448
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      Cedar Rapids, IA
      Posts
      999
      That is some top notch wiring work there.
      Some times I'm fast sometimes I'm half-fast

    9. #449
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Thanks guys, I really appreciate your support!

      Quote Originally Posted by hotrod56 View Post
      Which Dymo printer do you have? Does the print smear or come off with solvents or gas?
      Well, to be real honest I forgot to check that before I started. Too many other things in my mind right now.
      It seems to be oil resistant, but I could remove the text with some brake cleaner so it doesn't seem to withstand solvent...
      It's a little too late for transparent shrink tube, so I'll have to figure out some other way to protect them

    10. #450
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      Chicago suburbia
      Posts
      228
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post
      One guy at a Swedish forum found the right use for that space (since I'm never finish the car anyway...)

      Best thread ever. And this pic is hilarious!
      '69 Charger TT Viper project - SOLD
      '65 Mustang Shelby clone project "almost done"

    11. #451
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Location
      Kingwood TX
      Posts
      70
      Country Flag: United States
      Killer car! Insane craftsmanship!
      Radley

      -1967 Nova SS
      -2009 Pontiac G8 GT

    12. #452
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      Cape Giraradeau, MO
      Posts
      22
      Country Flag: United States
      Wow, amazing build!

      So I must ask, how close are you to your original budget?
      1971 Firebird restomod / 09 G8 GT


    13. #453
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      Chicago suburbia
      Posts
      228
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm guessing the "budget" is the "unorthodox" part!
      '69 Charger TT Viper project - SOLD
      '65 Mustang Shelby clone project "almost done"

    14. #454
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Haha, well it's still a budget project. I consider the project to be slightly different from other homebuilds. Not only the level of detail, but theoretical part of it too - there's a lot more thought behind the design and construction that probably can be seen in this thread. Hopefully, it will result in a very fast and easy controlled car and be proven that way instead.

      The budget? I started with a goal of 10 000 USD for the chassis (already had the engine and trans). Since I've raised the level a little but during the years, I've had to come up with new ways of creating good parts on a budget (AC/DC-TIG, CNC-mill etc) which has forced me to raise the budget slightly. Hopefully, I'll have it finished for 15 000 USD which I still think is fairly cheap for a build like this. I think I'm around 12k right now. Having bought most of the parts I need for the entire build (glass, body parts etc). Keeping most of the costs in an excel sheet, but I've avoided to look at the total for a while... Electrical components and wheels is roughly half of that budget, which is really crazy when you think about it (you can get 90% of the car for the rest of the money).
      Please don't quote that, I'll might have to delete it the day I'll want to sell it...




      I need some help... Bought a new radiator cap a while ago, but ended up with a "small" version which didn't fit my standard 70's flange.
      https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...0004/overview/
      Since I'm making a new housing I needed a weld flange anyway and thought I could get a flange matching that small cap. However, I can't find a filler neck flange with matching measurements on eBay. Trying to find a stock sized one so I can compare the measurements with the one I have and then search backwards from that, but I haven't succeeded yet.
      Does anyone have any ideas of what size of filler neck I should use? (prefer to buy one from China/Hong Kong since shipping is free. Shipping from US is ~25-30$ form what I've seen so far)

    15. #455
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, BC
      Posts
      125
      Country Flag: Canada
      Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post
      Glassfibre insulation with aluminum foil on top of it around exhaust and trans tunnel.


      The double curvature makes it hard to cover some areas with large patches...

      ...but the splices are taped over with reinforced aluminum tape.


      The firewall is kind of close to the engine, so I didn't dare to put thick insulation here (don't want to realize that the insulation was too thick when I'm mounting the engine...). Used gold foil instead. Not because of the bling factor. Not at all.

      What brand and product line did you use for the aluminum-glassfibre and gold foil heat shielding? And did you do specific comparative research before deciding on purchasing what you did?

      Thanks!
      Joe
      1972 Nova, forged LQ4 with twin 6466's, T56 Magnum, OEM subframe w/ Speedtech front, Chassisworks gLink rear, Ridetech coils & Wilwoods, with a rear floater in the works --> http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...1972-nova.html

    16. #456
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Posts
      164
      Can you tell us more about the cantilever system?

    17. #457
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Denton Texas
      Posts
      1,236
      Country Flag: United States

    18. #458
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Wiring loom around the engine is almost finished


      Installation is pretty forward. I made an excelsheet before with what pin should be connected to what. Just following that right now which makes it alot easier.


      made holes for bulkheads behind the dry sump tank. Initial plan was to put the bulk heads just behind the engine, but that area is clogged up with fuel hoses, pressure regulator, water hoses etc.


      Prototypes



      Final design, with a thin layer of EPDM-foam on the side facing the sheet metal.
      Wil probably use mil spec connectors in the future, but I wasn't sure of how many cables I would end up with, so I decided to go with my own solution for now.



      Installed. The shrink tube will be shrinked once I know everything is OK.


      Sooo, just start connecting the other ends then...


      Disassembled the suspensions (hopefully) a last time for final surface treatment.



    19. #459
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Sorry, didn't see these questions until now.

      Quote Originally Posted by frojoe View Post
      What brand and product line did you use for the aluminum-glassfibre and gold foil heat shielding? And did you do specific comparative research before deciding on purchasing what you did?

      Thanks!
      Joe
      Well, the glassfbire insulation is a Swedish manufacturor. Self adhesive and 1/4" thin. There are probably better alternatives out there, but it was fairly light compared to insulating performance.
      The gold was an eBay bargain too good to refuse. I think it's DEI brand or so, don't remember.
      No, I didn't do much research before I bought it The price was the deciding factor and it looks cool.
      Not sure how much it will help. Reflecting heat is a little more complex than this, but at least it won't be worse than a painted surface. And it looks cool.
      Did I say that it looks cool?

      Quote Originally Posted by hotrod56 View Post
      Can you tell us more about the cantilever system?
      What do you wan't to know?
      I wanted the attachment points as close to the upright as possible. It will result in a better Motion Ratio and lower loads on all involved components. You will also be able to use a lower spring rate with the same wheel rate which will reduce internal loads on the coil overs. Lower loads will allow for less material in the components which of course means less weight. Ideally, the push rod should be attached to the upright instead of the A-arm, but that's much easier on a formula car where steering angle is +-5° rather than mine +-15°...

      The problem with an coil over attachment point close to the upright is that the push rod will lean in a very steep angle (you technically want them vertical to the ground, roughly) if you keep the upper mount around the subframe. That angle will increase during compression which will reduce spring rate even more when you need it the most.
      It can be solved by moving the upper mount closer to the wheel, but it will probably intefere with the upper a-arm and you will add alot of weight if you want to minimize flex in the design.
      So I solved it with a push-rod design instead. It took some serious time to design the geometry since I wanted it to be as linear as possible. That means that when the wheel moves 1mm, the coil over piston will also move 1mm. Total travel is +-2"/50mm and it's 100% linear between +-1.8"/45mm of that travel. The last millimeters are slightly unlinear, but it doesn't matter since you're not in that area very often.
      I guess avoiding the spring rate decrease is quite easy with a push-rod system, the hard part is to get the linear movement.


      Quote Originally Posted by qnitro View Post
      You are a legend on the firebird
      Wow! Thanks!!

    20. #460
      Join Date
      Oct 2013
      Location
      H-Town, TX
      Posts
      356
      Country Flag: United States
      This car just gets more and more amazing

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