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    Results 321 to 340 of 614
    1. #321
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Quote Originally Posted by hessdawg View Post
      How did you adapt the t56 to the Pontiac engine?
      It looks like the factory bell housing
      It is the factory bell housing, but as I wrote before, I welded the T56 bell house together with a Muncie Pontiac-housing. It was done 15 years ago, so there were not many aftermarket products available then.





      I removed some material that protruded below the chassis (since the engine is lowered).


      Also made a new protection plate for the flywheel.





    2. #322
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      marina ca
      Posts
      152
      Country Flag: United States
      Wow amazing work

    3. #323
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Ok, so headers...
      Well, I realized pretty quick that the 4-1 headers wouldn't fit. The car is low, and I need ground clearance. Couldn't afford to have exhaust hanging down below the subframe connectors, so I'll have some work to do before it's OK.
      I've never built headers before, so I chose to cut up the old ones instead of building new from scratch. Why? It's an isolated project, and could easily be upgraded once the car is working. I'm eager to start the engine asap (well, it's a lot of work until I'm there - don't get any hopes) so I didn't want to spend three months in calculating optimum primary length, diameters etc. That will have to wait until the car is working.
      And I don't want too much power during the registration process, so if these headers cuts some power I don't mind...


      The tube behind the fourth port won't fit, it'll have to be moved.

      10 minutes later it looked like this. And I only kept the last tube to have some kind of reference where I should end the new secondaries.


      Some tape to fix the tubes...


      ...and some test fitting, and then moving the setup, and then some test fitting.... and then moving the setup...


      They'll come out good though.


      Getting there. They look a little bit strange where the collector meets the secondaries, but it must be camera angle.



      Took quite some time to do this. It feels like it would have taken way longer time to start from scratch though. Worst thing with V-engines - there's one more header lying there waiting to be modified...
      I've started on it (as you can se in the pic above, but it's far from finished)

    4. #324
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, BC
      Posts
      125
      Country Flag: Canada
      When you say you don't want too much power for the inspection process........ do they dyno it or some other way of power calculation?

      Still amazing work! I followed the same process of wanting to drive the car sooner rather than later and mocked up a 4" single into 2.5" dual exhaust (restrictive) out of raw uncoated mild steel leftovers I had lying around, as my temporary exhaust while I got the car sorted out and driving well. I didn't have to worry about banging the exhaust during fitment of different other parts or worry about scraping it on speedbumps the several times that I have. Now that the overall chassis/drivetrain is sorted into a properly-performing, it's time to remake the exhaust from turbo to tailpipes in nice upsized stainless over the winter.
      1972 Nova, forged LQ4 with twin 6466's, T56 Magnum, OEM subframe w/ Speedtech front, Chassisworks gLink rear, Ridetech coils & Wilwoods, with a rear floater in the works --> http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...1972-nova.html

    5. #325
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Well, yes and no. They don't perform the dyno but they want to see the sheet. I know it's easy to "adjust" the numbers, but if they suspect there are more power than the paper states they'll fail you. It's hard to tell the difference between 300 and 400hp, but there's a lot of differens between 300 and i.e. 500hp...

      Welding the headers took more time than I expected. I was hoping it should be finished this week, but it's not. I'm going to St Louis for a couple of days, starting tomorrow actually so there won't be much activity in the garage for the coming week. I hope US airport security lets me in.

    6. #326
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post
      Well, yes and no. They don't perform the dyno but they want to see the sheet. I know it's easy to "adjust" the numbers, but if they suspect there are more power than the paper states they'll fail you. It's hard to tell the difference between 300 and 400hp, but there's a lot of differens between 300 and i.e. 500hp...

      .....
      How would "they" (presumably the wise Overlords in Sweden that make sure you are "safe") know the difference? Do they drive the car? A 326 Pontiac and a 500+ inch stroker look the same. Who says you can't put a 326 in there and later swap it out for your real engine. How would they know?

      When you visit St. Louis, make sure you go to a local BBQ place and have some ribs. Your life may never be the same.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    7. #327
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      To make a modified vehicle legal here, you'll have to do a total of three inspections. (of course you can modify minor things and not have to do this, but my project needs to be taken the correct way to become legal).

      First of all, there's a non-profit organisation who has made this possible. In the 70's, it was illegal to modify your vehicle but "SFRO" (which stands for Swedish Vehicle Builders Organisation) managed to make a deal with the government to approve the projects before the governmental inspection and "guarantee" the vehicle safety. I don't know all the details of this deal, but it was something like that.
      Without that, it would not be legal today. So all creds to them.

      So, the first two stages are made with SFRO:
      Inspection one is when the car is together, brakes are working, all welds are done. The car is inspected "naked". Wheel travel is inspected, overall design and dimensioning of components, safety, choice of materials etc. If you design your own parts and they look doubtful, you'll have to present calculations etc.
      A rather thorough inspection with other words...

      Inspection two - the car is driven by the same guy who did the first inspection. Brakes, handling etc is determined and must be safe. It's hard to pass with i.e. racing pads since they usually has to be warm to work. Stopping power together with how the scrub radius affects during braking is determined. If you pass, you're now allowed to apply for the "official" inspection. This was done by the government until a few years ago, now the market is privatized instead.

      These two inspections costs you 500USD, the second one has to be done within 5 years from the first one. If the project is sold, you can not inherit the first inspection - it has to be done again by the new owner.

      Third inspection. Pretty much something between the first and the second one. Car is test driven, weighted, power is controlled (at the dyno paper you bring...). However, you can still get a no-go eventhough this usually never happens. If SFRO "recommends" your build, you'll get through. You might get some notes, which will force you to correct them and then do the third inspection one more time. But that's about it.
      The last inspection will cost you appr. 170 USD.

      Don't get me wrong - I think the system is quite OK. It'll keep the stupid or dangerous builds away from the road. I just don't think I would need that system - everybody else does though. lol.

    8. #328
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      I had some kind of rib at the hotel one night, but I never got the chance to have "real" ribs. But I know what you mean, I've been in US before (and I'm fairly good at making them myself too...).


      Sooo... updates!
      "Temporary" headers almost done.



      Brake tube is sitting too close to headers... Needs to be moved.


      Mocking up serpentine belt (version2):


      I actually made a sheet metal version (1) to be able to control that nothing interfered with it.


      Result will be something like this:



      FINALLY some pressurized air in the garage. Air compressor is located at the loft, and hoses are routed through the floor/ceiling. Came out really good!



      Checking that the headers didn't leak:


      before wrapping


      After (like 5hrs after...). Came out OK, but not great. The primaries were too tight, so it was impossible to wrap them individually. Again, they'll be considered temporary. As long as they'll work for 3 seasons, I'll have enough time to sort out the rest of the car.





      Brakes... Again, this is a budget project. I couldn't afford fancy new stoppers, so I bought used calipers and refurbished them.


      New surface treatment:


      Back together... And yes, they're HUGE!


      Routing brake hoses:

      Had to hold them with a zip tie to prevent them from scuff against the pushrods.


      With permanent hardware instead:


      A CNC-milled PONTIAC-logo would be nice, but it was too expensive. I'll have to order a sticker instead...

    9. #329
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Brisbane Australia
      Posts
      410
      Country Flag: Australia
      Good to see progress continues
      Hot rodder's recycle, wheres those prius' going when the tree huggers have a new fad.

    10. #330
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden

      Rear caliper, wilwood IR GT4R. Physically small, but the piston area is OK so hopefully they won't flex too much.


      My wilwood e-brake calipers. I added a spacer to make them fit the thicker rotor. I've also made pins for them to float on. Some guys just bolts them to a plate and let that flex. That's probably enough, but obviously I can't adapt known solutions. Instead I have to find my own and over-engineer everything...



      Some more pics of them


      The hard ware was bare metal, so I hade them aluzinc-coated. Could't stand knowing they would be all brown after first ride in rain.


      Assembled!


      My adapter plate is one of very few (I think it's 5 or 7 details total) CNC-made parts in the project.

    11. #331
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      Chicago
      Posts
      2,787
      Country Flag: United States
      Wow - Nice Pictures
      marty-mj
      GarageScene.net High Speed Welding KDHotrods RecoveryRoomInteriors WegnerAutomotive Autometer Ride-Tech

    12. #332
      Join Date
      Apr 2015
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      165
      Country Flag: United States
      This things incredible. Keep the motivation coming!
      CAM-T Autocross Fox Mustang
      LX mustang autocross on the "cheap"...
      1953 PickEmUp
      1953 Chev Pickemup

    13. #333
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden

    14. #334
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden

      Some parts for the routing of lines and hoses. Same length hoses front and rear, same mounts etc to keep number of spare parts low.




      Just a couple of pics of the tubing. I was thinking of routing the one for the rear brakes inside the coupé instead, but it I figured it would be enough protected from curbs etc from where it is now.



      Rear hose. Mounted to the dedione at left and body to the right. I didn't need all length, so I limited the movement by putting routing it through a hose ring.

    15. #335
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Posts
      118
      Country Flag: United States
      Awesome build! Looks like it is close to moving under its own power.
      Eddie

    16. #336
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Well, there's still an insaneously amount of work until it can be started. Electrical system, fuel system, the rest of the exhaust, cooling, rad support etc. All custom made. I guess I have another year until it's started and running.
      I'm trying not to think about that too much, because it's crazy when I realize I've been working on it since 2009...

    17. #337
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Rear brakes could be considered finished. Almost.
      Some minor work left with getting the e-brake to work as planned. Unfortunately, the subframeconnectors are blocking the wire from the pedal, so I got some headache to sort it out...














    18. #338
      Join Date
      Jun 2015
      Location
      San Diego
      Posts
      165
      awesome build.

    19. #339
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Location
      Chandler, Az (from west NE)
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      Awesome attention to detail and build; as said before, "especially in an enthusiast built project"! Thanks for sharing.
      Ric

      2002 s10, DD and AutoX.
      1966 Malibu owned since 1971. Drag car converting to track toy!

    20. #340
      Join Date
      May 2015
      Location
      Island Lake, IL
      Posts
      815
      Country Flag: United States
      Man your build is beyond impressive. I thought I was doing nice work on my Firebird until really scrolling through your thread.

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