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    Results 281 to 300 of 614
    1. #281
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Location
      South Lyon, MI
      Posts
      1,217
      Country Flag: United States
      Pure art! I love it...



    2. #282
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Thanks!

      Quote Originally Posted by gator68428 View Post
      What do you think it will weigh? I remember you said 2500 lbs, but i will believe that when i see it. If you get near 3000 you're doing very well. If you get to 2500 lbs I think my head will explode. But if you get below 3000 I will be very impressed.

      Think you'll get 50:50 weight distribution?

      And another thing. Love that you're doing it with a Firebird! PONTIAC yes!! What are the plans for the engine?
      The engine is already done, not a monster though. Pontiac 400, KRE heads, EFI single plane intake, H-rods, everything balanced etc. Dry sump and fuel injection together with a B&W 6-speed. If I'll reach the goal weight, the appr. 450HP will be more than enough.

      Regarding the weight, it's a 2-step thing. I'm trying to build light parts overall. But there are some details that could be made out of i.e. 10mm aluminum, but instead are made of solid 10mm steel which of course adds unnecessary weight. There are two reason for this - I get all the laser cut steel parts almost for free, but I have to pay ridiculous amounts of money for the CNC-aluminum things... But the most important is; When the car is scrutineered as an modified vehicle, it's weighted the first time and you're only allowed to have a certain amount of horsepowers compared to your weight. And I want as much HPs as possible in my papers (it's harder to tell the difference between 350 and 450 hp than i.e. 220 and 450 hp... ;) ). As soon as the car is approved, I'll start replacing the heavy parts one by one with aluminum parts. The front clip, doors, boot lid, rear bumper etc will be made out of glassfibre so save more weight.
      I've bought a small mill which I'm currently modifying into a CNC-mill, so as soon as the car is approved, it'll start working...
      So reaching my goal weight will take some time, but that's one of the most important goals with the entire project, and I'll keep modifying it until I've made it.

      Many years ago, I saw a strip build Firebird 71. Pontiac Engine, no interior, plastic parts everywhere. His total weight was 2100 lbs. If he could do that, then I should be able to reach 2500, eventhough I have some carpets inside, heavier trans, bigger brakes and bigger wheels.
      As you say though, I'll be satisfied if I get below 3000 lbs.

      I was planning to weight it when I have the engine in it. Then it'll be rather easy to estimate the total.

    3. #283
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, BC
      Posts
      125
      Country Flag: Canada
      That's very sneaky of you.. best of luck! Every time I see a notification email in my inbox for a new post in this thread I get very, very excited!!!
      1972 Nova, forged LQ4 with twin 6466's, T56 Magnum, OEM subframe w/ Speedtech front, Chassisworks gLink rear, Ridetech coils & Wilwoods, with a rear floater in the works --> http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...1972-nova.html

    4. #284
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      So.... Now when it's a rolling chassis, there was some minor prep work to do on the engine before I put it in. One of those things was building a new oil pan. Not that it was any problem with the old one or so, I ran R-tires with out any pressure problems. The old one was just not "optimized enough" :-D
      I have a four stage pump, so three scavenge connectors. One of those has been hooked up in the valley before (which is open on a Pontiac), so I decided to keep all three in the oil pan instead.

      The old one, which had some "cut aways" for the stock subframe. There's more room in the new subframe.



      Inside: Yes, I had to use a tube for one of the pipes because of lack of room (subframe...). That wasn't really a good solution - if it sucks air the oil will fall back. However, it turned out to work anyway.




      I wanted to build a aluminum pan, mostly to save weight. But I still don't have a AC/DC TIG in my garage, so I had to go the steel route instead.
      Most boring thing in this type of project? Making all the paper templates! Printing and cutting it, then test fit it just to realize that two holes still needs to be moved slightly towards each other. Then printing and cutting a new one, just to realize that... Well, you get it.



      Finished result came out really good though:




      I also wanted a scraper integrated into the tray


      But I didn't want it in heavy gauge, so I milled the "scraper parts" of the part down to 1,1mm instead of 3mm.

    5. #285
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Have been finishing the steering arms too:
      Laser cut outer shape:


      Then 20 min in the mill:


      Finished!

      I got some quotes for CNC milling them, but they were all too expensive. Since it was the outer shape I couldn't do (large nice looking radius) I came up with the idea of laser cutting the outer shape and then manually drilling the holes.

      Test - yes, it fits!


    6. #286
      Join Date
      Nov 2002
      Location
      Finland
      Posts
      209
      Nice work!
      Chris

    7. #287
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Work on the oil pan continues...
      I'm using perforated sheet metal closest to the crank. Normal sheet metal with louvers in it would of course be even better, but I felt that I had to hold back my ambitions somewhere to be finished.





      Some patch work in the front of the tray



      Inside of the weld



      Evacuation the oil from the bottom of the pan. Gravity is kind of nice to have as a friend. I made three separate evacuations instead of a long channel from end to end since...


      ... I could theoretically squeeze the engine between the frame struts. The engine is already lowered appr. 3", and this way I can lower it another 2" and basically place it at the bottom of the chassis. Just need to find a transmission with better ground clearance before I do that. Right now, that's the limiting factor.



      Some home made parts


      Bought AN steel fittings and modified them in the lathe.
      http://www.propontiac.com/wp-content.../A_DSC6224.jpg

      The hole through it was coned 5º to maximize flow

      Welded


      Tacked


      That's all for now.

    8. #288
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Elk River, MN
      Posts
      676
      Looking awesome!! Love seeing updates on this car....

      Just a heads-up on below, not sure if you've got something planned or not, but on my C5, the brake heat burns the tie rod and ball joint boots on the track. They're about the same distance from the rotor as yours. The simple solution is an aluminum heat shield to block the radiant heat from the rotor. With you building everything custom anyway, it shouldn't be too hard to make simple flat shields, could even integrate brake ducting into them

      Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post
      Have been finishing the steering arms too:

      Test - yes, it fits!

    9. #289
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Matt,

      The one time that I saw the DSE Mustang I noticed that the tie rod boot was wrapped with some sort of heat resistant wrap. I believe the balljoints were too.

      Andrew
      Last edited by andrewb70; 06-03-2015 at 07:28 AM.
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    10. #290
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Thanks for the heads-up. Basically, I was planning the same thing you proposed. There are threaded M5 holes in the upright on both sides (you can see three in the pic) which I'm planning to attach a aluminum heat shield to.
      Lately, I've realized that I could pair that heat shield with a brake duct though. My first plan was to make a simple mold for carbon fiber ducts from wood and glue a heat shield to that. However, my employer has just purchased a 3D-printer so I'm investigating the possibilities of printing molds instead. It would save some time...

      When I disassemble the suspension for paint, I'll fab up the last parts (ducts, heat shields, some clips etc). Right now I just want as many "critical" parts finished to make it driveable.

    11. #291
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Albemarle, NC
      Posts
      1,149
      Country Flag: United States
      we just use header wrap and safety wire on the c5 track cars I service. works to keep the tie rods alive, cheap, and simple.
      Michael Crawford

      1970 plymouth Duster back under construction:
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...uring-makeover

      1987 GMC S15 https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ct-drivabeater

    12. #292
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Elk River, MN
      Posts
      676
      Thanks for the heads-up. Basically, I was planning the same thing you proposed. There are threaded M5 holes in the upright on both sides (you can see three in the pic) which I'm planning to attach a aluminum heat shield to.
      Lately, I've realized that I could pair that heat shield with a brake duct though. My first plan was to make a simple mold for carbon fiber ducts from wood and glue a heat shield to that. However, my employer has just purchased a 3D-printer so I'm investigating the possibilities of printing molds instead. It would save some time...

      When I disassemble the suspension for paint, I'll fab up the last parts (ducts, heat shields, some clips etc). Right now I just want as many "critical" parts finished to make it driveable.
      As always, sounds like you have a solid plan figured out, can't wait to see what you come up with! This project is the most inspirational build thread I've seen, it just keeps getting better....

      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      The one time that I sawrhe DSE Mustang I noticed that the tie rod boot was wrapped with some sort of heat resistant wrap. I believe the balljoints were too.
      Quote Originally Posted by dusterbd13 View Post
      we just use header wrap and safety wire on the c5 track cars I service. works to keep the tie rods alive, cheap, and simple.
      That's exactly what I've been running for the last few races (30+ hours without issue), will be making some full aluminum shields over the winter

    13. #293
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      Gilbert, AZ
      Posts
      934
      Country Flag: United States
      Outstanding work! Definitely want to follow this.
      Josh Campbell- Pushing the limits of my HOA since 2011
      71 Firebird- 455, Ridetech front suspension. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...04#post1124504
      67 Camaro RS/SS clone, Speedtech front suspension, coilovers, soon to get LT1/T56.
      82 Z28- cheapie beater, soon to get a 406.
      66 Mustang coupe- 393, T-5, sold. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...-Coupe-GT393-C

    14. #294
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Thanks!




      Had some hours in the garage yesterday night. Welding took some time, but now it's done! Will post some more pics during the weekend.


      That large flywheel really bugs me. Wish I had something smaller together with a trans with better ground clearance than my T56 since I would be able to drop the engine even lower...
      Ah, I'll have to save some projects for the future.

    15. #295
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Fresno, Ca
      Posts
      379
      Fantastic fab work, Anders!
      I've been noticing your accessory drive- Serpentine setup with modern components-- I LIKE it!
      Care to share some pics of what you've done. I can see your solution for a second brace on the Sanden compressor, but what's the brace on the passenger side (the one with the triangular cutouts in it) designed for?
      Thanks!

    16. #296
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Dayton, Ohio
      Posts
      435
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm loving the fab work on the oil pan. I'd love to do something similar to my cleveland as I want to go to a dry sump system. The fab work on the entire car is outstanding.
      Roger

      69 Mustang coupe, under construction
      2011 Mustang - DD
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ang-SuperCoupe

      Freedom Of Speed!




    17. #297
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden


      Well, it's not a serpentine yet. I might have to add a pulley to get more belt around the pulleys (imagine a wheel/pulley in the middle [height] and to the left of the alt and compressor. Then route the right part of the belt over that and you'll end up with 100% more belt contact at the other pulleys), but that will be some trial and error when the parts are done.
      Here's what I'm planning; Electric water pump, the AC-compressor and alterator at driver side and dry sump pump at the passenger. I need that bracket from the head to the dry sump to stiffen it. Not the best solution, but the Pontiac block doesn't have any extra holes in the block to use with this.

      I've had some trouble with finding good attachmentpoints for the brackets, though. So I decided to save that work until the engine is in the car. I might scrap the current solution for a better idea when the engine is in the car...

    18. #298
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Quote Originally Posted by monteboy84 View Post
      As always, sounds like you have a solid plan figured out, can't wait to see what you come up with! This project is the most inspirational build thread I've seen, it just keeps getting better....
      Didn't see this comment until now. Thanks alot!

      I've been planning large parts of the project for years before I started. There has been some replanning during the build phase, but overall I'm following the original plan. I'm appr. two years behind because of all the rust I found. That's probably the most annoying part.

    19. #299
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Sweden
      Posts
      902
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Some pics of last weeks work:



      Scavenge filters inside the pan instead of outside. Saves some space. Downside is that I can't clean them very often, but the external I had before was never specially clogged.


      Tacked inside the pan:


      All of them...


      Outside:


      Welded



      And the finished result:




      inside



      Came out pretty well I think. Hardes part right now is to decide what color it should have. Pontiac blue or cast iron grey (same as the block). Or maybe gold as the old one...
      If I had more time, I would have had it i.e. galvanized or so, but I really want the engine and trans in the car before vacation.

    20. #300
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Elk River, MN
      Posts
      676
      Fantastic work as always, love that oil pan!

      Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post
      or cast iron grey (same as the block). Or maybe gold as the old one...
      Cast iron gray gets my vote

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