Advanced cooling design!

[67zo6Camaro]

Wow, that's some crazy sh*7^t. Love it. The tech info is great, I'm just in the process of moving my radiator from the front to the passenger seat in a Convt. Looking for weight reduction and weight balance for Autocross/track stuff. Working on aluminum boot set-up around driver area covering back seat and passenger seat area that will house the fan shroud set up.



Cheers
Brett

[Procharmo]

Wow, that's some crazy sh*7^t. Love it. The tech info is great, I'm just in the process of moving my radiator from the front to the passenger seat in a Convt. Looking for weight reduction and weight balance for Autocross/track stuff. Working on aluminum boot set-up around driver area covering back seat and passenger seat area that will house the fan shroud set up.

Cheers
Brett

Your project sounds involved. Wont you get hot with radiators inside the car? Is there enough room to put radiators under the car?

My original 355 with iron heads, intake, a Procharger P600B, stock brass/copper radiator, air con rad, Procharger 3 core intercooler and mild steel induction tubing was quite heavy.

I had to trim the front springs when I changed to ally heads, intake, water pump, power steering, Becool radiator, Procharger F1C and aluminium induction pipes. It gained about two inches.

Finally changing to a relocated battery, loosing the heavy intercooler, loosing the massive Becool radiator, shortening the induction pipes but adding a gear drive, extra blower and pair of light weight radiators actually raised
the ride height by around 3/4". So I figure the addition of this last radiator will have a limited impact on front rear weight balance.

You'd be surprised how much the stock front bracing brackets all weigh as well.

[67zo6Camaro]

Yep, when I put the standard front mount aluminum radiator in I was also surprized of the combined weight with fan and hoses etc. My car is around 3000 lbs dry (no driver or gas) and I just like playing with the numbers (weight to tire contact size). I have a full frame with adjustable coil-overs at all 4 corners, so ride height is not an issue. Car is currently used mostly for Autox and track so time in the car is limited and it's a full time roadster. The shroud set-up should move the hot air back away from me,,, but that remains to be tested. This will be set-up "B" for track use, I also have the original set-up "A" for street cruising with the seats back in the car for the family. I should be able to interchange between the 2 set-ups within a few hours.

Brett

[uxojerry]

Have you thought of using meth injection for it's engine cooling properties? There are other benefits but it may provide a little more cooling to supplement your modded radiators. One of the best systems is manufactured in the UK I think.

[MonzaRacer]

OK I am going to make a point,,,,200 degrees is NOT hot, and I have seen horsepower increases in engines when my customers would wanted to run at 14, 150,160 degrees, so I made a point of tuning several engines cold, and then started pulling them at higher temps and ever time we wind up with more power.
See the whole reason for people wanting cooler temps is NOT for power or any other reason but this,,,,water/coolant boils at 212deg F at sea level.
With this in mind THINK, the engine IS a heat production device,,,the engine USES heat to make power,,,so rejecting it to the atmosphere is ridiculous unless required like "in the olden days" because we had little ability to run our engines hotter,,,using the energy many reject to the air.
So many people mistake cooler as safer. With proper coolant such as the Evans NPG+ that doesnt boil like water at 212.
I have seen power increases of anywhere from 12 to 48 hp on raising the operating temps with proper coolant. With the advent of synthetic oils, few engines using Eagle Armor Coat components and oil coolers to maintain a proper mix of part cooling rather than having a complete engine at 140-150 coolant temps, use the heat to your advantage.
We had a 0.100 over 454, Eagle rotating assembly, AFR aluminum heads, thermal coatings keep combustion chamber heat in, Evans coolant and with identical engine as year before (owner sells old engine and rebuilds every season,,must be great to have sponsors!)And we picked up almost 40 hp and 30 lb ft of torque, it did use more fuel, but he couldnt be burnt down on line either. His rail had a Sirocco sized radiator with single core and 1 in tubes. We ran engine at 225 into bleach box and it never got to more than 240 by end of run on hottest day.
Air temps mattered little to the car and we had an alky guy try to burn him down. We had just switched to E85 as his fuel budget went up as his truck got stolen and totaled and insurance didnt leave him with enough to get another diesel so he got a gas GMC.
0.13 faster, oil never contaminates (no milky color) and the engine so far has shown NO wear or damage and we never had issues on gas OR E85. Oh and E85 got us another solid 0.10 in 1/8th.
I see so many people complaining when building $10k engines and then quibble over $200 in coolant AND benefit is you NEVER need pressure caps on system, so if it pushes coolant due to blown gaskets,,,you broke something.
Kind of cool.

Oh and cool car!