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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Denmark
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    182
    Country Flag: Denmark

    Default Getting hold of a stock car?

    Hey, after Daytona I took up the old idea of getting hold of a Sprint or Nationwide car as a fun track toy. I don't like the CoT so an older detuned Ford bodied car, passenger seat, road course setup and I'm off. I see cars out there on racingjunk.com once in a while, but I was wondering if anyone here had a better source for this? I'm guessing that an oval car needs quite a bit of setup work to get to turn both ways or are they even the same parts? Hints and tips, what to look out for, sources, where to get tires, who can handle setup work etc. all welcome!


    Other rides: 1969 Mustang GT1


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Belforest, AL
    Posts
    1,133

    Default

    An oval car is going to require major fabrication work to get it to turn both ways equally.

    Looking for a Road Course car is going to be your only real option. They pop up on eBay every now and then also. There are some liquidation outlets who sell used Nascar parts and pieces who may have a whole car from time to time.
    Todd S.

    "I like to race school buses..."

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    924
    Country Flag: United States

    Default

    I have a Tony Stewart Home depot car. They are great bang for the buck, easy to drive and you feel safe in them. Try Gene Felton http://www.genefeltonrestorations.com/ Have Gene set you up with a done car.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Belle Plaine, MN
    Posts
    1,235
    Country Flag: United States

    Default

    Another pal of mine also has a Gene Felton ex-NASCAR road course car, and he's happy with it as well. It's the wise way to get one of these cars, since you know they've been 'restored' by someone competent.
    Scott Parkhurst


    2011 Car Craft Real Street Eliminator Winner

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    827

    Default

    One of my buddies took a couple ex Cup cars to Bonneville and they pass tech with flying colors which is hard to do at Bonneville and they go well over 200 all day long. He sold a Ford that went 235 for under $20 grand and got a Dodge that he tweaked for max aero and went 250 with it. Good times!
    Jason

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    986

    Default

    i think the ARCA series is where most of the usable Cup cars wind up.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Sin City
    Posts
    330

    Default

    My neighbor bought an old roller trans am style tube car with old style t bird body on ebay.... Last ran 20 years ago... He's building everything back up for a track day car... Figures to have around 20- 30g in it when done...
    Kurt G
    Las Vegas

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Sin City
    Posts
    330

    Default

    I think it would be easier to turn right/left in some of the Late model class short track cars like they run on more local type series... I knew a couple guys who would run oval with occasional road course time too...
    Kurt G
    Las Vegas

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    oshawa ontario
    Posts
    1,613
    Country Flag: Canada

    Default

    Racingjunk is a great place.....that's where I got mine....you ll spend a lot less if you go with a 105" Busch car as opposed to a 110" Cup car.....do you want turn($$) key? or a roller with your motor and trans and do some of the work yourself

    as far as the oval cars.....you ll have to get rid of the cambered rear end housing if it has one....the intermediate car is the best to get if you cant get a road race car.....if you buy it from a shop see if they will put a "road race set up" in the car before you pick it up......be worth asking....I spoke at length about this subject with the manufacture of my car (Hutch Pagan) and the big thing is the rear housing, you ll have to put a "straight up" or a road race cambered rear in...... the left front will have to mirror the right front (easy for a shop to do)......the road race cars have the trac bar turned around, left side now mounts on the right, right on the left (not really necessary unless your running for points)..they mount the battery and the dry sump tank on the right instead of the left in a RR car, equal lead left and right......check out my build thread....there's a bunch of stuff in there

    Gene Felton....nice stuff, bring money
    Nascar 69 Chevelle project, 1999 Hutch Pagan Nascar chassis, 69 Chevelle body,700hp, Penske's, slicks, roadrace track day https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...le-Cup-project
    89 Iroc 305 tpi 5 spd
    01 chevy 2500HD 4x4 8.1 Allison
    29 Fountain (2) 400hp 355s

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    182
    Country Flag: Denmark

    Default

    Lots of good info, thanks! Felton looks good but probably fairly expensive too? Has all the right names on the cars but I don't care much about that. I want the car for what it CAN do and not for what it HAS done. I was thinking of getting a running car and have a reputable shop go over it as far as setup goes, then do the details myself.

    What do you all do for tires? Run real Goodyear racing slicks or something less radical? Source for them?
    Do you run a full-on NASCAR engine or a detuned version for longevity?

    Other rides: 1969 Mustang GT1

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    494

    Default

    most local late model type cars are offset chassis everything hangs to the left, cup style cars are perimiter chassis which are built straight up so they do better on a road coarse, The old remax cars were also built this way but still had a late model rear suspension not the truck arms so it would probably be a better setup and should be very cheep but I'm sure it would be easier to find an artca or old bush car.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Boston MA
    Posts
    687

    Default

    If you're looing for a "stock car" for track days, the best deals out there are ASA cars. Built by Howe with perimeter chassis and three links in the back. LS1 engines. Can't beat 'em for the price.
    1967 #s RS

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    oshawa ontario
    Posts
    1,613
    Country Flag: Canada

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CptKlutz View Post
    Lots of good info, thanks! Felton looks good but probably fairly expensive too? Has all the right names on the cars but I don't care much about that. I want the car for what it CAN do and not for what it HAS done. I was thinking of getting a running car and have a reputable shop go over it as far as setup goes, then do the details myself.

    What do you all do for tires? Run real Goodyear racing slicks or something less radical? Source for them?
    Do you run a full-on NASCAR engine or a detuned version for longevity?

    I'll be running the Hooiser 1080 15x10" wide bias ply slick for track days (they're the ones pictured in my build thread).....I get them for a good price, all I want for free from a local Outlaw Late Model racer who likes to run up front....none of them have any more than 40 laps around a 1/4 mi/ 1/2mi track....approx 80% life left.....nothing saying I couldn't contact the Goodyear Racing Tire outlet and get the Radial slicks the Cup guys use but I know they're about $450 US each. Does anyone in your area run these type of cars?.....if they do get to know them.....Google for the Goodyear, Hoosier, Avon? distributors in your area....I suppose if you wanted I could ship you some....we'd have to work something out to cover my time plus shipping PM me

    As for the motor in my low buck approach I'll start out with a 300hp 350 I have laying around and a street T-10....that will get the car up and running......I'll go for the bullet later, but even that will be a pump gas motor......I don't have a rulebook so I'm thinking a big inch small block.....a 750hp sb2 can be had quite reasonably but they require race gas which around here is approx $20/gal.....Sunoco prem is about $5/gal.....Id sooner flog the living daylights out of something kinda low buck/low tech rather than have some really fast xpensive piece that I'm afraid to hang out in the turns and afraid to red line lap after lap

    In the end as always its all about $$
    Nascar 69 Chevelle project, 1999 Hutch Pagan Nascar chassis, 69 Chevelle body,700hp, Penske's, slicks, roadrace track day https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...le-Cup-project
    89 Iroc 305 tpi 5 spd
    01 chevy 2500HD 4x4 8.1 Allison
    29 Fountain (2) 400hp 355s

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Rustburg, Virginia
    Posts
    3,696
    Country Flag: United States

    Default

    1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
    89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
    Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    924
    Country Flag: United States

    Default

    Contact Gene. He is a good guy and a accomplished driver. My Stewart car was under 50K. Can't build it for that.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    oshawa ontario
    Posts
    1,613
    Country Flag: Canada

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Charley Lillard View Post
    Contact Gene. He is a good guy and a accomplished driver. My Stewart car was under 50K. Can't build it for that.
    is it a roadrace car?.....what drive train?.....do you have to play a lot with the set up?

    post pics....that would be great!
    Nascar 69 Chevelle project, 1999 Hutch Pagan Nascar chassis, 69 Chevelle body,700hp, Penske's, slicks, roadrace track day https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...le-Cup-project
    89 Iroc 305 tpi 5 spd
    01 chevy 2500HD 4x4 8.1 Allison
    29 Fountain (2) 400hp 355s

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    924
    Country Flag: United States

    Default

    It is short track car converted to road course. 358" 18 degree headed, 700plus hp, Tex Racing 4 speed. I have only had it out twice so far but easy to drive and feels very safe.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    oshawa ontario
    Posts
    1,613
    Country Flag: Canada

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Charley Lillard View Post
    It is short track car converted to road course. 358" 18 degree headed, 700plus hp, Tex Racing 4 speed. I have only had it out twice so far but easy to drive and feels very safe.
    Sweeeeet.....
    mind if I ask about 50 questions......haha
    Nascar 69 Chevelle project, 1999 Hutch Pagan Nascar chassis, 69 Chevelle body,700hp, Penske's, slicks, roadrace track day https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...le-Cup-project
    89 Iroc 305 tpi 5 spd
    01 chevy 2500HD 4x4 8.1 Allison
    29 Fountain (2) 400hp 355s

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    HILLBILLY HOLLYWOOD, TENNESSEE!!!
    Posts
    2,033

    Default

    [QUOTE=CptKlutz;635843]Lots of good info, thanks! Felton looks good but probably fairly expensive too? QUOTE]

    Gene is CHEAP for all the knowledge and talent he has in setting up a Cup Car for roadracing. Spend a weekend at a HSR or HSR West vintage weekend with the stock car guys to learn what it REALLY is all about.

    There are LOT'S of CHEAP Cup cars available and LOT'S of CHEAP Cup parts available. There is NO cheap/knowledgable labor available. With Gene you are BUYING the knowlege to make it all work and come together. Using Gene will be quicker, cheaper, easier and you will have a car that will have the capability to FAR outperform your driving capabilities.
    Mike

    Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"

    www.musclecardeals.com

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    1,792

    Default

    1971 Camaro, 383 stroker ~500HP,M21 Trans with lightened flywheel. All Sorts of Auto-x Goodness in the Suspension. 12" Brakes ->SOLD

    But ask me about my 2004 STi Auto-x car...

    Just call me Brett

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