Project WidowMaker - The Chevelle Build Thread

[The WidowMaker]

here are the final pics of the swaybar. i added one bend near the end, and i also put the studded rod ends back on. they allow for a lot more misalignment, and since theres now enough room i felt they would be the best option.

[The WidowMaker]

heres the pic of the collapsible intermediate shaft setup. the rag joint is from lee for their box, the bottom of the shaft is $19 from cpp, the nickle 3/4 dd shaft is $29 from cpp and the 1"-48 x 3/4 dd nickle u-joint was $49 from cpp.

i called frank today to make sure the rag joint would clear the wegner front drive and got the ok. i know they ran it on the bull run chevelle, but wanted to make sure they didnt modify anything to make it work.

as you can see it clears, but barely. theres probably 3/16-1/4" at the tightest spot which is right in the middle of the rubber portion. its hard to see from the angle of the pic, but the entire nickle portion has TONS of room. the hole in the shaved firewall is as close to stock as i could get it, so this should be the same for others running an ls/edelbrock header setup.

[MCMLXIX]

Very cool...

[RJ66]

This is going to be an awsome Chevelle! Have you decided on the wheel selection for it yet?



Randy(D&Z Customs LLC.)
[email protected]
1-262-347-9741

[The WidowMaker]

This is going to be an awsome Chevelle! Have you decided on the wheel selection for it yet?

livewires, rated x's or the newly redone 6 spoke. i had my rendering done with the wildsides, but i just keep changing my mind. wheels will be ordered just after the first of the year. i have to bribe jon into coming over and measuring everything up.

Tim

[The WidowMaker]

i got the pedals and the triple master mounted today. i still need to work on bracing the pedals so i'll have some more pictures in a few days.

the chevelle uses a very good mounting system for both the column and the stock pedals. there is a beefy piece that ties both into the firewall and cowl area making both nice and sturdy. i attempted to use this piece to mount the pedals, but even with most cut away, the pedals didnt sit high enough to clear the column (pedals would clear, but the bias adjuster sits next to the pedal and needed the pedals to sit higher).

so the current plan uses a 3/16" plate on the back of the firewall, along with 3/4 x 1.5" .120 tubing to brace it back to the column mount. this will all take the place of the stock piece. currently, i only have the plate mounted and its sturdy as hell, but i know i will still get some flex. also, since i though i was using the stock mount, i welded the shaved piece around part of the original firewall. since that didnt happen, i had to cut out a section and weld it completely flat. i hope to get the rest done in the next few days.

[The WidowMaker]

i finished the install of the pedals for now. i still need a clutch stop and the brake light switch, but i'll finish that once i get the lines installed and the masters bled.

i took some pics of the install, but you cant really tell what the heck is going on. so, if somebody wants the pics or a description of what i did let me know.

i also decided that although i wanted a flat firewall, a little detail wouldnt be bad. i built this little plate today that will get sandwiched between the masters and firewall. i will have to make a relief cut for the steering column, but im still waiting on ididit and i dont have the mount yet.

[The WidowMaker]

not much to update. i got the brake and clutch pedals done today. not sure if i will use them or make something else that isnt quite a rectangle. they are still pretty rough, but they will get a little more clean up and a black anodizing. i made them a little bigger than the wilwoods as the blurry pic shows. i have a size 15 shoe, and the wilwoods just felt too small. the will either get screwed on from the back, or welded once i get the contour correct. couldnt have done it without the 1943 Index mill i bought a few months back. it used to make parts for hughes aircraft during the war, now makes parts for my car.

i also shipped the column back to ididit today, and i should have the new column in a couple of weeks. i also bought the front varishock quickset 1's to match the rears. got a good deal over on lat-g.com.
more pics to come

[Route 66 Motorsports]

looking good...great project can't wait to see more!

[41565 chevelle]

Tim, Looks good, keep up getting the time to work on it. I want to come by after the holidays and look at your master set-up. Let me know when is good

[The WidowMaker]

thanks for the comments guys

today i attempted to place the bend in the pedals pads. the wilwood setup has the pedal pads cast into the arm, and there is a pretty good bend in them. my thought was to either screw the new pads in from the back, or to weld them to the existing pad. either way the new pads needed the contour.

i started by using some scraps that i used to get an idea for the design. the first i heated too much, and once i tapped it with a leather mallet, it just mashed and split.



the second i used a lot less heat, but in an attemp to heat it evenly, it got too soft in a few spots and the vice and vice grips left witness marks.



the third i started by attaching it at both ends over a piece of pipe. as i heated i tightened the ends down in an attempt to get it to bend. it cracked as well.



the last one i put it inside the pipe, applied pressure in the middle and then heated the back. the result is below. i think it worked much better since the interior of the pipe worked as an oven to help heat the piece evenly.







im still not sure what to do. since i have to make one more anyways, i have a few options;

make them both flat, cut off the current pad and weld it to the arm

make them curved and do the same as above

make them curved and screw them onto the current pad

or make them curved and weld to the current pad

ive looked at a few different cars and what they have. my wifes lexus has a flat brake pedal, and my silverado is curved to almost the same contour as the pad i made. i guess i need to see what feels most comfortable.

anyone have any suggestions on attachment? any reason tig welding them on would be a bad idea? cant think of any, but id rather ask then cut off the pedal and regret it.

Tim

[L & H Kustoms]

.........anyone have any suggestions on attachment? any reason tig welding them on would be a bad idea? cant think of any, but id rather ask then cut off the pedal and regret it.

Tim

Tim the pedal pads look great as far as tig welding them you can't weld aluminum to steel. but you can braze them on but I wouldnt recommend that as the brazing is soft and could crack and the pad could fall off. You might tap a blind hole on the back side and run a few 10/32 button head allen screws or something to attach it too. The cars looking great

[The WidowMaker]

Tim the pedal pads look great as far as tig welding them you can't weld aluminum to steel. but you can braze them on but I wouldnt recommend that as the brazing is soft and could crack and the pad could fall off. You might tap a blind hole on the back side and run a few 10/32 button head allen screws or something to attach it too. The cars looking great

thanks for the reply and the tech info. i should have mentioned that this is wilwoods aluminum version. the steel set was $100 more and when i talked with them they said that they made steel for the racing circuits where its required. i didnt think it was necessary.

[Motown 454]

Nice job it looks good.

[RJ66]

Hi Tim, I have the same pedals in our 66 Chevelle & in project "Re-Peeled" the curved surface of the pedal works well with performance driving. I would make chamfered holes in the pedal pads & fasten them to the pedals that way.


Randy(D&Z Customs LLC.)
[email protected]
1-262-347-9741

[The WidowMaker]

id love to counter sink some holes for both the ease and the looks, but since im offsetting the pads 1/2" to one side (brake to right side, clutch to left side to widen the center to center) over the current pedal pads, theres no way to get 4 bolts in. i could maybe do 2, but i still think welding will be the easiest, strongest and cleanest.

i think at this point im going to leave them curved. it seems that most i find are curved, and it seems to orient the pedal throughout the entire travel. a flat pedal will of course change angles, but a curved will always feel the same where ever it is.

also, since i need to make one more pedal, im thinking of making it an inch wider. some sets i see have both the same size, but i think the ease of finding a larger pedal is nice. the clutch is adequate, and a brake pedal of the same size would be too, but its still up in the air at this time.

Tim

[The WidowMaker]

I want to come by after the holidays and look at your master set-up. Let me know when is good

im gone all next week to a department class, but after that im back to my normal schedule. i have next saturday (9th) off if you want to swing by.

Tim

[L & H Kustoms]

thanks for the reply and the tech info. i should have mentioned that this is wilwoods aluminum version. the steel set was $100 more and when i talked with them they said that they made steel for the racing circuits where its required. i didnt think it was necessary.

Tim I didnt realize you were running the aluminum wilwood pedal assembly so in retrospect I would definitely heliarc the pads to the pedals. Keep up the good work

[41565 chevelle]

I work the night of the 9th, that is my Monday so I will head in a little early and swing by!

[Nicks67GTO]

Well i must say, I am impressed. I dont know if ive ever seen a buildup this intense in somones driveway before. Congrats on youre rediculously good fab skills ill be keeping up with this build for sure.

I have to ask somthing here. What all are you using for major tools? Welders? Chop saw? Benders? Fixtures? The tools/cost of tools are what have kept me away from doing anything like this. Do you have quite the collection of awesome fabricating tools?