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    Results 101 to 113 of 113
    1. #101
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      Amherst, OH
      Posts
      524
      Country Flag: United States
      All good! It's just a matter of digging into it for yourself, and learning as you go. Like you and others have said, it's really not bad at all, and surprising how well all these parts fit and work together!

      I ended up having a bad booster, so I ordered and installed an ACDelco reman unit from Rock Auto for $99. There was a very LOUD sucking/vacuum leak type sound coming from around the rod under the dash? And while driving a few weeks ago, the brakes were dragging by themselves very hard! It took a LOT of gas to keep the car limping so I could get it the few miles to the barn to work on it! Let it sit for a bit, and then it was fine again? During that time, the pedal was really hard, like something was inside the booster preventing me from pushing the pedal, so I said screw it and ordered new. Fixed everything though, they feel great now! I didn't even have to cut and thread the rod on this one...I just put it on the lower hole on the pedal bracket, I believe that's the "power" location anyway.

      This talk about the front port being for the rear lines, and the rear port being for the front lines has me concerned. lol I'm still dialing in the adjustable prop valve though, so it's tough to say if the rears are working, or how much. I know I had TOO much bite in the fronts, adjusted the valve per the instructions, and got that to go away some, so I take it the rears are working to help even that out?
      Josh

      1968 Firebird project thread - https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...41#post1180941

    2. #102
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Waterloo, Ia
      Posts
      1,409
      Quote Originally Posted by Josue View Post
      All good! It's just a matter of digging into it for yourself, and learning as you go. Like you and others have said, it's really not bad at all, and surprising how well all these parts fit and work together!

      I ended up having a bad booster, so I ordered and installed an ACDelco reman unit from Rock Auto for $99. There was a very LOUD sucking/vacuum leak type sound coming from around the rod under the dash? And while driving a few weeks ago, the brakes were dragging by themselves very hard! It took a LOT of gas to keep the car limping so I could get it the few miles to the barn to work on it! Let it sit for a bit, and then it was fine again? During that time, the pedal was really hard, like something was inside the booster preventing me from pushing the pedal, so I said screw it and ordered new. Fixed everything though, they feel great now! I didn't even have to cut and thread the rod on this one...I just put it on the lower hole on the pedal bracket, I believe that's the "power" location anyway.

      This talk about the front port being for the rear lines, and the rear port being for the front lines has me concerned. lol I'm still dialing in the adjustable prop valve though, so it's tough to say if the rears are working, or how much. I know I had TOO much bite in the fronts, adjusted the valve per the instructions, and got that to go away some, so I take it the rears are working to help even that out?
      I also had a "bad master cylinder" The pedal got rock hard and I couldn't bleed the rears well. I tried for hours to make it work. I called Tobin, he straightened me out on it, I bought a new master cylinder because I ruined the other one, swapped lines and it works perfect. My Delco MC is for a 2002 RHD S10
      -Nick
      -1967 GTO I drive and race
      -Build threads:
      -http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=615847&page=23
      -https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...project-thread


    3. #103
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Waterloo, Ia
      Posts
      1,409


      - - - Updated - - -

      -Nick
      -1967 GTO I drive and race
      -Build threads:
      -http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=615847&page=23
      -https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...project-thread


    4. #104
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      Amherst, OH
      Posts
      524
      Country Flag: United States
      I was able to bleed my back brakes no problem though, which is why I'm torn on what to do here? I was getting plenty of fluid coming out the bleeders back there, and even tested it out a bit while the car was on 4 jack stands with the wheels off. I'd put it in drive, let the wheels get going, then cram on the pedal, and they were stopping as they should.

      If it's not right, it's not right. But, I'm getting a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" feeling too. hahaha
      Josh

      1968 Firebird project thread - https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...41#post1180941

    5. #105
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Location
      Ventura County CA
      Posts
      556
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Pete68 View Post
      .... shim the booster at the firewall to get the correct spacing and to make sure it clears the hood, takes a bit of measuring and trial and error but is easy. You may need to shim the booster a bit so it angles down more, mine hit the hood a little. Be sure to use two nuts to hold the rod where it attaches to the pedal and use red Locktite to make sure it does not come loose.

      C5 Brake Booster (eBay/craigslist). Get the master cylinder and booster together if you can, it’s almost a direct bolt in. Almost! I think I got booster and master cylinder on eBay for ~$140?
      Can anyone elaborate on what changes are needed to adapt the C5/C6 booster to a 3rd gen '68-'74 Nova (should be similar to 1st gen '67-'69 Camaro)? Do I understand correctly you can cut and rethread the input rod and simply attach a new clevis end? If so, what size do you thread it with? I know DSE has brackets 050302 to angle the booster down - do those work as-is to bolt up the booster? I'm curious also if the firewall hole needs to be enlarged.
      Clint - '70 Nova "restomod" cruiser & autocross family car

    6. #106
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Location
      Hermosa Beach, CA
      Posts
      153
      Country Flag: United States
      Yes, cut and re-thread original rod.

      From a previous post:
      Hi guys, sorry for the slow response. Im sorry but I did forget to mention one thing in my original write up, way back in 1991 when I was 19 I swapped in the early 70's Nova disc brakes, at that time we also swapped in the master cylinder and power booster from the Nova...and Im pretty sure we also swapped the firewall bracket from the early 70's Nova. Sorry for the omission but that was a long time ago!! Anyway, hope that helps.

      Firewall hole did not need to be enlarged for me. I just used the early 70's Nova firewall bracket, C5 booster/master, and original rod.
      Pete

      1968 Camaro
      2009 Porsche 911 Carrera S

      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2543199

    7. #107
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Location
      Ventura County CA
      Posts
      556
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Pete68 View Post
      Yes, cut and re-thread original rod.
      Thanks Pete. Any idea what thread size you used? Did you have to cut the rod diameter down prior to threading or did you just run a threading die over it directly? What clevis did you use?
      Clint - '70 Nova "restomod" cruiser & autocross family car

    8. #108
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      Michigan
      Posts
      322
      Country Flag: United States
      I know this is an old thread, but for reference, the old school A/F/X body clevises have 3/8"-24 threads. The C5 input rod is the perfect diameter to run a 3/8"-24 die right over it.
      - Ryan

    9. #109
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Location
      Hermosa Beach, CA
      Posts
      153
      Country Flag: United States
      Sorry I cant remember, it was over 10 years ago I think. Im pretty sure if was the same diameter and thread pitch as the original rod. As Ryan said I simply cut the C5 rod and then ran the die over it to thread it. Use 2 nuts with some blue loctite. Good luck.
      Pete

      1968 Camaro
      2009 Porsche 911 Carrera S

      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2543199

    10. #110
      Join Date
      Dec 2015
      Posts
      5
      Country Flag: United States

      What fittings?

      Hey guys maybe I missed it, I’m using the c5 master in my 71 cutlass and can’t find the fitting for the rear port. 12-1.5 I believe. I need either an adapter or just the fitting for a 3/16 line.

    11. #111
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      Michigan
      Posts
      322
      Country Flag: United States

    12. #112
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      El Paso, Texas
      Posts
      404
      Found some part numbers for you here as well.

      https://brakequip.com/products/hardware/male-tube-nuts/

      Alex

    13. #113
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Posts
      95
      Old thread. But doing the swap in my 69 camaro. I have a 1/4 gap between the boot and the firewall hole.

      Using
      C6 booster DSE brackets

      What are you guys doing to properly seal the gap/firewall hole?
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