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    Results 161 to 180 of 402
    1. #161
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Virginia Beach VA
      Posts
      381
      Painted white OLDSMOBILE letters on my breather and added the hose with the white line on it:







      Joe Lincoln
      Lime Green 71 Olds 442 Convertible

      Upgrades thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ible&highlight=


    2. #162
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Tinley Park, IL
      Posts
      1,095
      Country Flag: United States
      I think I've said this before, but hats off to you for beating that thing like you should. I love cruising in mine!

      Nick ~
      1969 Cutlass

    3. #163
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Virginia Beach VA
      Posts
      381
      Thanks Nick! I'm putting about 150 - 200 hard miles on it every week that there's not a project being done or I'm traveling for work. I really think I'll be putting at least 5k miles a year on it w/no problems. Of course at some point I'll have to bite the bullet and put it in paint and body jail. I may do that in "stages" just so it won't be gone for too long. We'll see.

      Love the new look of your car BTW - Black top looks great and awesome pic you have in your sig of it cruising!!

      -Joe
      Joe Lincoln
      Lime Green 71 Olds 442 Convertible

      Upgrades thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ible&highlight=

    4. #164
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Virginia Beach VA
      Posts
      381
      Been a few weeks since I updated here. About 2 weeks ago was driving and all of a sudden there was a horrific noise with vibration and grinding. It sounded and felt like rocks in a blender. I was barely able to pull off the road. Had to push the car the last 20 yards or so to get to a safe spot. Shut the car off and looked around and under the car. Was expecting to see carnage of some kind. It all looked fine. Opened the hood. All looked fine. Started the car up and no issues. Went to let the clutch out - rocks in blender again. Put it in neutral and tried to let the clutch out. Rocks in a blender. Tried shifting through the gears with the clutch in - shifted like butter as always. So I knew it was trans related but not sure what it was. Called my local trans shop I use here in Virginia Beach (Rory and Son's) and they said they were booked up until yesterday. Had to have the car towed to my house where it sat for 2 weeks. Towed it over to the shop yesterday - diagnoses - multiple broken teeth on the 2nd gear main shaft and 2nd gear cluster on my Richmond 5 speed. They got all the teeth out and it appears there is no other damage. Going to order a new 2nd gear main shaft and cluster and a new throw out bearing from McLeod and have it put back together. Hoping to have it back on the road banging through the gears by next week. Really need this trans to hold up for a few more years until I can upgrade to the Magnum 6 speed. Way too many other projects to get done now (like all the paint and body). Hoping I can wait a few years on that....we'll see how it goes.
      Joe Lincoln
      Lime Green 71 Olds 442 Convertible

      Upgrades thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ible&highlight=

    5. #165
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Virginia Beach VA
      Posts
      381
      New 2nd gears are back in the Richmond 5 speed and I had it back on the road today. Did a 6000 RPM shift after a good warm up and all seems good. Also got my last A/C duct installed on the drivers side while the new GPS Speedo and tach from Speedhut were installed. Really love these gauges so far. MPH is dead on (tracking tire size and RPM) and no sticking like I had before with my Stewart Warner speedo. Also has digital MPH in the little window as well as a compass, 0-60, 1/4 mile, elevation, clock, and highest speed. Tach works great too. Got the RPM and shift light all dialed in. Like it to go off at 5,600 for a 6,000 shift. Here are some pics I took today in the garage of the gauges. Sorry for the lighting but it still shows them pretty well:



      Joe Lincoln
      Lime Green 71 Olds 442 Convertible

      Upgrades thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ible&highlight=

    6. #166
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Manitoba
      Posts
      45
      Country Flag: Canada
      From one 71 Olds owner to another, I love your build and the time and effort you've put into it. I've been investing/collecting in parts for the better part of 3 years and the car is currently getting bolted back together... Can't wait to have it back.

      Nice job!

    7. #167
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Virginia Beach VA
      Posts
      381
      Quote Originally Posted by Lickity Split View Post
      From one 71 Olds owner to another, I love your build and the time and effort you've put into it. I've been investing/collecting in parts for the better part of 3 years and the car is currently getting bolted back together... Can't wait to have it back.

      Nice job!
      Thanks! Good luck with your build. It takes a long time to get these cars how you want. Lots of time and lots of money!

      Speaking of that I had some bad news last night. Took the car out for a 2nd drive with the new gears and the trans back in and the same thing happened again. Same horrific noise and situation as before so I'm sure I sheared some teeth off again. I guess this Richmond 5 speed just can't survive behind the almost 600 lb feet of torque the motor is putting out. Time for the 5 speed to come out and the Magnum 6 speed (rated to 700 lb feet) to go in it's place. I'm guessing that's it for me for 2016 with the 442. Will have the car towed to MD to Frank Trimble and get the trans ordered. It's no small undertaking with a new tunnel and hump having to be created to go around the massive 6 speed and trying to get the stock console to fit. I don't think this will be done before the winter hits so will probably have to wait for spring of '17 to have the car back on the road. Was hoping to get all the paint and body work done this winter but I guess that will have to wait especially with what the 6 speed and labor is going to cost me :(
      Joe Lincoln
      Lime Green 71 Olds 442 Convertible

      Upgrades thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ible&highlight=

    8. #168
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      422
      Country Flag: United States
      Your gonna love the Magnum. Ya think you can make the factory console work?

    9. #169
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Virginia Beach VA
      Posts
      381
      Quote Originally Posted by Jeff70 View Post
      Your gonna love the Magnum. Ya think you can make the factory console work?
      I hope so. Definitely going to try. Spent some time researching the new trans and setup. Going with the Magnum 6 speed rated at 700 ft lbs and will swap out my 3.31s for 4.10s

      Here's what the #s will look like with the new trans and rear:

      Magnum TR6060 6 speed (2.66, 1.78,1.30,1.00, .8, .63)

      W: 4.10 gears & 305/45/18 Nitto DRs:

      {28.78” tire}
      1st = 4.10*2.66= 10.91 launch multiplier/ 2nd =4.10* 1.78 = 7.30 /3rd =4.10*1.30=5.33 4th =4.10*1.00=4.10
      Shift points:
      1-2 47 mph 6000 RPM (RPM drop to 4000 67%)
      2-3 70 mph 6000 RPM (RPM drop to 4400 73%)
      3-4 96 mph 1/8th mile 6000 RPM (RPM drop to 4600 77%)
      Cross traps for 1/4 mile at approx.: 117 mph = 5600 RPM (in 4th gear) w/current motor
      125 mph =6000 RPM (in 4th gear) - room to grow (future stroker motor 650/650)

      POWER RANGE = 4000 – 6000 (2000 RPM Power band)

      2300 RPM = 60 MPH in 5th and 76 mph in 6th
      65 mph in 5th gear @ 2500 RPM (W/28.78”)
      70 mph in 6th gear @ 2100 RPM (W/28.78”)
      75 mph in 6th gear @ 2263 RPM (W/28.78”)
      80 mph in 6th gear @ 2413 RPM (W/28.78”)
      150 mph in 6th gear @ 4525 RPM (W/28.78”)
      Joe Lincoln
      Lime Green 71 Olds 442 Convertible

      Upgrades thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ible&highlight=

    10. #170
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Virginia Beach VA
      Posts
      381
      Here are some older pics I found of a T56 install w/the console. If I understand correctly the Magnum is a little bigger than the older T56 and will require even MORE cutting but I believe the location will be about the same. Note the shifter handle will be much further back than stock so the console will have to be as well.


      Joe Lincoln
      Lime Green 71 Olds 442 Convertible

      Upgrades thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ible&highlight=

    11. #171
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Virginia Beach VA
      Posts
      381

      Joe Lincoln
      Lime Green 71 Olds 442 Convertible

      Upgrades thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ible&highlight=

    12. #172
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      422
      Country Flag: United States
      Maybe use the "mid-shift" option on the Magnum, the forward shifter location. You might have to play with offset shifters like this.


      http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/hurs...jack-shifters/

    13. #173
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Virginia Beach VA
      Posts
      381
      Quote Originally Posted by Jeff70 View Post
      Maybe use the "mid-shift" option on the Magnum, the forward shifter location. You might have to play with offset shifters like this.


      http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/hurs...jack-shifters/
      Thanks for that - will probably go with one of the company's that has the complete kit. So far leaning towards this one:

      http://americanpowertrain.com/i-8521...speed-kit.html

      Only one I've seen so far designed for 68-72 GM A-body - still searching and researching though.
      Joe Lincoln
      Lime Green 71 Olds 442 Convertible

      Upgrades thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ible&highlight=

    14. #174
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Virginia Beach VA
      Posts
      381
      While I'm waiting on my builder to be ready to install the new trans I decided to start working on my plan for rollover protection and shoulder harness seat belts. I spent $30 at Home Depot and bought some PVC pipe to mock it up. As ugly as this looks it really helped to figure out exactly where the bars would have to go to work around the interior. I'm going to order the shoulder belts too and mount the to the PVC just to make sure everything fits correctly and lines up well. Here's the ugliest rollbar set up you may ever see!!


      Joe Lincoln
      Lime Green 71 Olds 442 Convertible

      Upgrades thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ible&highlight=

    15. #175
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Virginia Beach VA
      Posts
      381
      I am calling it "roll over Protection" vs a roll bar or roll cage because I understand this may NOT be NHRA legal and I'm OK with that. My goal is to have roll over protection uh....in case the car is rolled over in a crash and to combine that with shoulder harness seat belts for daily driving. I will have removable bars throughout that can be added for track days but once again simply because some of these bars are removable makes them not NHRA legal. So I should be fine at 1/8 mile tracks (even w/o any roll bar/roll over protection) but may have to get lucky at certain 1/4 mile tracks or possibly only do show and go events where they are a little more lenient on the standards.

      the actual main hoop would have to go through the armrest in the back like this:



      The cross bar behind the seats and the door bars will all be removable using these type of brackets:



      note the down bars at the top and the screws there. Here's a close up:



      every removable bar will have this on both ends.

      So when I want to run with the full set up I can install the cross bar behind the seat, add the 5 pt harness, install the down bars and door bars and look something like this:



      The rest of the time it will just be the main hoop and the shoulder harness like this:



      or this:

      Joe Lincoln
      Lime Green 71 Olds 442 Convertible

      Upgrades thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ible&highlight=

    16. #176
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Virginia Beach VA
      Posts
      381
      My wife's car is a 2004 Nissan 350Z convertible. Unbelievably the shoulder belt setup in her car is a nice match for my plan. Here are some pics:







      The location of where that bolts in is the same height and location over my shoulder when sitting in both cars if you compare it to this pic:



      The nice thing is after the bolt it has a small extension pushing the belt up about 1" and forward toward the drivers shoulder about 2.5". This should put the belt right where it needs to be to just reach around and grab it w/o having to contort your body to reach it. I'm hoping I can buy these 2004 Nissan 350Z belts in black. We'll see. What a stroke of luck to have such a great match for my plan sitting right beside my 442 in the garage!!
      Joe Lincoln
      Lime Green 71 Olds 442 Convertible

      Upgrades thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ible&highlight=

    17. #177
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Virginia Beach VA
      Posts
      381
      Will try to go as close to NHRA legal as possible except with the removable bars that makes it NOT NHRA legal of course.



      Here's my crude drawing/plan:



      All the white bars would be removable with these:



      on both ends.

      The main hoop will go down to the frame. The door bars will go down to the frame and the down bars will go down to the frame. Problem is when the door bars and down bars are not connected only the main hoop will be supported by the frame. To help a LITTLE with this when the bars are removed I want to run a small bar along the floor board that connects the bottom of the main hoop and the bottom of the door bar. You can see this in the pic above. I'm hoping I could actually run this bar under the carpet so it will be less obvious but help provide some additional support especially when all the bars are removed. Additionally you can see in the pic a small angled bar at the bottom coming off the main hoop. I'm hoping this will help add more support to the main hoop when the removable bars are out and will be able to go behind the panel and speaker so it won't be seen. Will need to work around the convertible top cylinder and rear speaker. This pic I found online shows what I mean and what I will have to work around:



      If this works it would be great if it could also go all the way down to the frame.
      Joe Lincoln
      Lime Green 71 Olds 442 Convertible

      Upgrades thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ible&highlight=

    18. #178
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Virginia Beach VA
      Posts
      381
      slowly making progress on the mock up for the roll bar/should belt - ran into several issues trying to set it up the way I wanted and had to make a few adjustments/changes. First the support bar from the main hoop to the frame that I wanted to add to provide support when the door bars, down bars, & rear bar were removed couldn't go where I originally planned because of the speaker and just not having enough room to keep it hidden. So I put it from the factory steel part just above the conv top cylinder (where the stock shoulder belt option attaches) to the main hoop. This allowed it to be hidden but still provide a solid foundation for support.

      You can see the steel part I'm referring to best in this pic:



      Hard to see in these pics but this is where it will go:





      You can also see the light wiring and the power window button in these 2 pics above if you look closely. They both had to to be relocated for this to work.
      Joe Lincoln
      Lime Green 71 Olds 442 Convertible

      Upgrades thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ible&highlight=

    19. #179
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Virginia Beach VA
      Posts
      381
      You can see the main hoop, support bar, and shoulder belt in this pic:



      here's the shoulder harness:





      I understand this is all an ugly mess right now. Lots of bent metal pieces and duct tape. I had to build it from scratch piece by piece just as a mock up. I don't want to do too much cutting or drilling in case when the real roll bar is welded in there are slight changes but I wanted to take it far enough so the big issues were covered. I'm really glad I did this because there's really only one spot for the main hoop to go through the floor board to the frame and work with this plan. Then everything tags off of that. The seat belts will only work one way and in one location which means the light on the front panel had to be relocated and of course the power window button had to be moved to the outside panel and the support bar would only work in one location. As usual you change one thing and it starts a domino effect.

      Once this is all done it will be professionally covered in the stock white vinyl with the wood grain piece to make it look as close to factory correct as possible. The belt works exactly the way I hoped it would. I wanted it to remain BELOW the sight line from the side view of the car with the top down but still be able to properly go around your shoulder and support the driver and passenger the way it should. It does that very well. With the top piece on you can't see anything but the belt hanging from the opening. You can also get in and out of the back seat easily. The belt is not in your way once the seat is folded forward.
      Joe Lincoln
      Lime Green 71 Olds 442 Convertible

      Upgrades thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ible&highlight=

    20. #180
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Virginia Beach VA
      Posts
      381
      Another change I had to adjust for was the removable door bar design. Originally I wanted to have the seat belt attached just above the door bar and use this type of removable bar:




      Unfortunately if I did it that way the seat belt couldn't slide up and down because the part of the bar that was attached would block it. I will still use this type of removable piece for the bottom of the door bars (and both sides of the rear bar, and both sides of the down bars) but for the top of the door bar I will have to use one welded piece that has a hole for the belts when the door bars are not on and then that same bolt hole will be used for the removable top door bar (meaning the shoulder belt will have to be unbolted to use the door bar). This is not ideal but there is no way around it. The good news is I will only use/attach the door bars when I also attach the rear bar and the 5 pt harness on track days. Also in order to do this I will have to customize and removable panel/piece so the seat belts can come out and the door bar can go in. Because of this I decided to extend the removable piece around to the side for the rear bar. So the removable piece will come off, the seat belt will be unbolted and the door bars, rear bar, and 5 pt harness will be attached for track days.

      See the door bar piece in this pic. This triangular piece will be welded to the main hoop for the seat belt to be bolted to for most of the time, then used for the door bar (with seat belt removed) on track days:

      Joe Lincoln
      Lime Green 71 Olds 442 Convertible

      Upgrades thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ible&highlight=

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