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    Thread: Dmax camaro

    1. #81
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      I finally ordered some coilovers for the rear from summit. They are QA1 Proma Stars. Pretty inexpensive and I think will get the job done.


      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    2. #82
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      I dug the alternator assembly out of my storage to test fit it. In the stock location there was no way a hood was going to fit.





      So after some thinking and measuring, I realized that the opposite side of the motor was a great mounting location.






      And my 2" cowl induction hood officially fits. There is 1 edge of the hood inner structure that the alternator touches, so grinding a 1/4" off of the edge and it's good to go.
      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    3. #83
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      Should also mention that I had the upper oil pan milled and machined to gain more room for hood clearance.

      Here's a couple from when I first set it in there a couple years ago.



      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    4. #84
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      The wheel tubs and trunk floor have been one of the most difficult parts of this build so far, and I'm not kidding about that. Taking the time to get my tolerances how they should be is very time consuming to say the least.


      The wheel tubs need to be assembled first. I got these from Chassisworks, and they have Pittsburgh seams which makes installation easier. I used the cardboard packaging to make templates, as per the instructions. I had Bernie help me with the first wheel tub.






      We needed to measure over from the wheel tub end over to the quarter panel every couple inches to get the rough contour. Then, a body contour tool is used to trace the exact shape onto the template.






      Installation of the tubs required more trimming of the inner quarters.









      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    5. #85
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      Lexington, Mass
      Posts
      96
      Country Flag: United States
      This project is by far my favorite one i have come across. i always thought it would be awesome to see one of these done and never thought it would be possible due to the weight of the dmax. but hey, your getting it done. if theres a will theres a way. i cannot wait to see this thing move with the size of those rear tires!! goodluck with the rest of it! looks amazing!

      Anthony
      "Never let anyone tell you how to live your life, the only way to be happy is to follow your passion"

      1972 Chevelle SS clone
      1968 Caramro RS--in the works
      2013 Silverado 2500HD Duramax Z71 appearance package

    6. #86
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Orange County, California
      Posts
      71
      Country Flag: United States
      Cool build!!! Can't wait to see what it does and the numbers it puts out. Great work.

    7. #87
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by chevy4life View Post
      This project is by far my favorite one i have come across. i always thought it would be awesome to see one of these done and never thought it would be possible due to the weight of the dmax. but hey, your getting it done. if theres a will theres a way. i cannot wait to see this thing move with the size of those rear tires!! goodluck with the rest of it! looks amazing!

      Anthony
      Quote Originally Posted by efs69 View Post
      Cool build!!! Can't wait to see what it does and the numbers it puts out. Great work.
      Thanks guys, it's not too far from being ready for the road.
      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    8. #88
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      I made the second wheel tub myself. FYI, it's much easier with 2 people.


      Here's a few shots of the pittsburgh seam, and how it's assembled and folded over with a hammer and dolly.













      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    9. #89
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      I used some sheet metal screws to temporarily attach them while I made the rest of the trunk floor.





      I also got the floor kit from Chassisworks. It needs to be trimmed and fit to the frame and car, and notched for all the roll cage tubing.









      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    10. #90
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States











      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter


    11. #91
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      Not too long after I was almost finished with the trunk floor sheet metal, I realized that I didn't take into account the need for a fuel cell. So some modifications to what I already did was necessary...

      Here's my fuel cell. 15 gallon Summit Racing cell with sending unit for a fuel gauge.




      Rough placement.




      I had to support the cell with something other than 20 gauge sheet metal, so I built an x-brace to hold the weight.






      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    12. #92
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      I needed to modify the existing pieces I had already made fit. I think it turned out alright.


      The main trunk floor piece required the most extensive modification. It ended up looking like a seat.







      Then the floor extension was next. I needed to bend the edges and cut a hole for the sump.












      It's a tight fit.
      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    13. #93
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Austin Texas
      Posts
      640
      I was using my tubing notcher once in the vise and the bit caught like yours did and the drill wiped around 360 degrees and hit me in the back of the hand so hard I was almost positive it broke my hand at first. I would not even want to imagine what it felt like in the face.

    14. #94
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by cwylie View Post
      I was using my tubing notcher once in the vise and the bit caught like yours did and the drill wiped around 360 degrees and hit me in the back of the hand so hard I was almost positive it broke my hand at first. I would not even want to imagine what it felt like in the face.
      It didn't feel good, to say the least.
      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    15. #95
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      It's such a tight fit, I had to remove the sump fittings in order to get it in.





      Made some close outs from the leftover wheel tub sheet metal.









      Then I made this little piece to cover the rear tubular crossmember. Still undecided if I will keep it or not...



      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    16. #96
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      I moved onto the driveshaft cover.




      I traced out the driveshaft loop from behind, then cut it out.



      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    17. #97
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      I wasn't really sure how I was going to connect the existing tunnel to the loop, so I came up with the idea to pie cut the tunnel, then make up the difference with leftover pieces from the wheel tub extensions. I bent the extensions over my leg to achieve the proper bend/radius to match the driveshaft loop.









      Then I made theses pieces to close it up.






      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    18. #98
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      I took JoshH's advice from another forum and bought a Quick Fuel 175 gph lift pump.



      I had to make a mounting bracket for it. I notched and bent a piece of 1/8th" plate and welded it together.











      It sits high enough that it is completely not visible from the outside of the car, but sits low enough that it has room under the trunk floor with some wiggle room.
      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    19. #99
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      Finally came time to strap the fuel cell down. I had to trim some material off of all the straps because it's such a tight fit, but it turned out good.





      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    20. #100
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      I was finally able to pull all of the trunk floor apart and get it etched and sealed.

      I sprayed a weld through self etching primer on the chassis.




      I had to spray everything in 2 separate shoots. I first scuffed everything with lacquer thinner and a red scotch brite, then hung each piece and sprayed an etch primer, let it flash off, then sprayed a dark gray sealer over that, protecting everything from corrosion (rust).









      Then I reinstalled everything.

      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

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