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    Results 61 to 80 of 168

    Thread: Dmax camaro

    1. #61
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by cwylie View Post
      You did the mini tubs and then cut them out?
      We did the mini tub on the drivers side. When we got around to the other side, we found more and more that needed repair, most of which to the point that the structural integrity of the car was jeopardized. So I did a lot of research and decided to back half the car. It is by far more structurally sound and capable of handling the torque of the Duramax.

      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter


    2. #62
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      Here's my front subframe. It's the Chassisworks G-machine front subrame. I bought it 6 years ago, primed and assembled it. It was finally ready to mount on the camaro.



      We ran into a few issues getting the link bars and coil overs in. The axle I bought came out of a tube chassis '68 firebird, but their chassis was set up differently than we did my camaro. The coil overs were too short, and the link bars ended up being too long. We fiddled around with the bars and I cut a piece of angle iron to act as a shock simulator. After a couple of hours messing with it, we finally got it on the ground.









      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    3. #63
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      A couple days later I mounted the front sheet metal and the deck lid.








      We made some temporary link bars to get the axle further forward. The shorter link bars are going to work as the longer lower link bars. I ordered some new link bar ends to shorten the other 2 link bars.




      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    4. #64
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      The wheels are 15x7 in the front and 15x14 in the rear. It was a great day when they showed up at my door step.







      The front tires are Kumho Ecsta AST's 225/50r15 and the rears are Hoosier Pro Street Radials 29X18.50x15. One of the Kumho's showed up later from being on backorder. A 29" tall tire is the largest you can fit in the stock wheel opening for a 1st generation Camaro.


      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    5. #65
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      I bought the Chassisworks bolt on subframe connectors that are designed for their g machine front subframe a few years ago. They slide onto the end of the front subframe and bolt to where the front leaf spring perch mounts. Obviously, I no longer have leaf springs.

      The rear subframe came with 2 2x3 rectangular tubing subframe connectors that you use to tie into your existing frame.

      What we did was cut off the portion of the g machine subframe connectors that bolt to the leaf spring mounts. We then made up the difference with the 2x3 subframe connector, cut at an angle, and then welded them together, capping off the excess 2x3 with another angled cut out of the 2x3.

      We notched the floor for the connectors to fit through. The g machine connectors hung down lower than we liked so we flipped them upside down.
























      I finish welded the floor to the subframe connectors and capped off the main frame rails on the front crossmember. It gave me newfound faith in my own welding ability.
      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    6. #66
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      Here's the 10 point roll cage kit that I bought from Chassisworks. A very nice quality kit IMO.






      The main hoop needs to be test fit first. It is supposed to be mounted on top of the rocker, but the seam for the inner and outer rocker panels was in the way.





      So I cut the seam off the width of the floor plate and welded it closed. Then it was ready for the new floor plate.






      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    7. #67
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      The floor plates need to be formed to the floor of the car. So I clamped the 2 main hoop floor plates in a vise and beat them to the proper shape. Then I cut off the excess and grinded a nice new round edge.













      I had to cut the main hoop down a little because it was too long and tacked it in place. It needs to be even with the forward edge of the B post. It's also pretty important that everything is level.







      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    8. #68
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      The cage sides were next to be installed. These took me a helluva long time to notch and fit. My buddy Ed let me borrow his tubing notcher that you clamp into a vise, but I didn't have the proper style hole saw, so I had to notch each tube free hand with my 18v dewalt drill.


      The cage sides determine where the front floor plates mount. I had to keep the cage sides level, as high as possible, and close to the dash.
















      Decided to snap a picture of my drill after my battery went dead. Not too long after I took this I was notching that tube and the hole saw caught an edge, whipped around and smacked me in the face, giving me a minor black eye and a cut on my cheek. I felt like a friggin idiot.



      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    9. #69
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      Next was the windshield tube. It needs to be mounted high and forward enough to not obstruct vision. I want to be able to use my sun visors when the build is done so I took that into account. I mounted the gussets on the lower corner of the cage sides, and they don't get in the way of my vision anymore than the triple pod in my 12v.








      When it's all tacked together, you are unable to weld the top of the tubing (the roof side), so I cut the tack welds holding the cage sides to the main hoop and folded the cage sides with the windshield bar down onto the floor, and welded up the top side of the tubing and the gussets. I'm pretty proud of those welds.





      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    10. #70
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
















      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    11. #71
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      I realized a little late that the back brace tube was 1 1/4". My removable back brace kit is designed for 1 5/8" tubing, so I decided to sleeve the back brace tube with some scrap 1 5/8" tube so I could still use everything.













      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    12. #72
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      Here's my adapter plate and billet flexplate. Thank you Ron at Suncoast! I was surprised that it's 4 separate pieces, but none the less, it's going to get the the job done, be strong and look sweet.




      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    13. #73
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      Finished the roll cage. I started off with the side struts that mount from the main hoop to on top of the subframe above the 4 link brackets.





      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    14. #74
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      Then I moved onto the door bars. I bought a swing out door bar kit from chassisworks for both sides to make getting in and out of the car much easier.















      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    15. #75
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States





      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    16. #76
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States









      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    17. #77
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      I bought a custom width pivot bushing kit from Ruff Stuff to take the place of my billet aluminum small block mounts.





      I brought my old radiator and electric fan setup to help me determine how far forward/backward I could set the motor.



      I had some stainless steel plates that I got for free so I decided to make my motor mount plates out of them. My previous attempt with these plates ruined 6 of my drill bits in 4 holes. Needless to say stainless steel is hard as ****ing hell. Today I ran my drill much slower and it worked much better.


      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    18. #78
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States



      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    19. #79
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States
      I modified the lower oil pan for better ground clearance, which also required modifying the pickup tube. It was necessary in order to actually drive the car around and not worry about puncturing it.







      I used a large piece of 1/4" plate and traced the sectioned lower oil pan onto it, then cut it with a plasma cutter. I also removed and reinstalled the original drain plug in the lowest and rear most point of the pan.


      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

    20. #80
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      157
      Country Flag: United States






      I fully welded the pan to the 1/4" plate inside and out. I retained the low oil sensor as well.
      '67 RS Duramax Camaro, Chassisworks subframes and cage, Built Not Bought

      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=57718

      '94 4x4 rclb 12v cummins, twin turbo grocery getter

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