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    Results 41 to 60 of 303
    1. #41
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Posts
      379
      After waiting since August the brake kit finally arrived. I had to do a little machining on the rim/hub but it was pretty easy.
      One side is done already. Over the weekend, the other side, then bleed, then wait for good weather.



      Old Brakes

      Attached Images Attached Images        


    2. #42
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Posts
      379
      I was having problems with the car's handling.

      Something was majorly f-d up.

      In the end, it turns out the alignment shop which spent extra time on my car, because they did not know WTF they were doing, did not tighten dowm the camber eccentric. It came loose, thus the front end was dangerously screwed up.

      I ended up deciding to order my own alignment tool from summit.
      Bumpsteer kit
      Street or Track adjustable strut rod kit, which eliminates the rubber strut bushings and allows fiction free articulation of the strut via the heim joint.

      Putting the parts on was easy.

      Doing the bumpsteer measurments and adjustments was very time consuming (10 hours +/-)

      Doing my own home alignment was not really all that hard. I was careful to make levelling blocks so the car sits perfectly flat (used my laser level)
      I even got the steering wheel perfectly centered first time

      Bumpsteer was a process unto itself. 1st I had to remove the shocks and springs one side at a time, and the sway bar.

      I then set up the laser on a vertical axis, with two targets on my angle about 40" apart (further apart for more accurate measurments)

      Then it was up/down -change shims
      up/down -change shims
      etc
      etc
      Then plug the numbers into a spreadsheet and see what looked the best.
      I think the final bump and final droop, were mostly throw-away numbers, even though they were not bad. It is not too likely the car will reach full droop in real world driving. and full bump may find spring bind, before it reaches that point.

      Despite all that, the final numbers are very good.



      Anyone thinking of doing this, it's worth it!

    3. #43
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Posts
      379
      I took all my kids out on Christmas eve for a go at driving the beast. I especially wanted to get a video of my youngest son (who is on leave from the army) driving "Thunder"
      No bottoming out on bumpy roads with the new shocks and 4 adults in the car.

      Then dad had a turn. The exhaust note might be a little too quiet, though. I'll have to fix that ;)
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HIm1pgVYCg

    4. #44
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Papillion, NE
      Posts
      203
      Do you really have a 2.78 rear gear?

      If so, make a 3.70 your next bet, with a 5 speed you need some gear.

      If I remember right, you have a 3.27 1st gear? If so go with 3.50's or 3.70's, otherwise 1st will get real short.

      If you have a 2.87 1st, go with 3.89 or 4.11. That thing will feel like a monster.

      BTW, I think it sounds just right, that exhaust has a great sound

      70 Mustang - 489 cid FE, KC ported Edelbrock heads, Modified Victor Intake, Mass-flo EFI, Erson valvetrain, Supercomps, TKO-600, 4.10 9 inch.
      71 F-100 4x4 SB 4x4, 461 cid FE stroker, Edelbrock Pro-flo 4 EFI
      13 Ram Laramie 2500 4x4 6.7 diesel - trailer puller

    5. #45
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Posts
      379
      Quote Originally Posted by My427stang View Post
      Do you really have a 2.78 rear gear?

      If so, make a 3.70 your next bet, with a 5 speed you need some gear.

      If I remember right, you have a 3.27 1st gear? If so go with 3.50's or 3.70's, otherwise 1st will get real short.

      If you have a 2.87 1st, go with 3.89 or 4.11. That thing will feel like a monster.

      BTW, I think it sounds just right, that exhaust has a great sound
      Yeah, 2.70 (or 2.8, or 2.78 something like that I never counted the teeth) The idea was to make a nice high speed highway cruiser. Which it is, turning about 1600 rpms @ 70mph.

      The plan, now (since we have no road courses here) is to take it to the strip a few times this coming summer. I am going to make it track legal, if I can. I have the battery enclosure kit and shut off, to install in the trunk, already.

      Next is reinforcing the welding around the underrider traction bars, add a good driveshaft loop.

      I have a real nice set of 3.50 gears, so I was thinking of getting a second pumpkin, with a locker

      I don't know what kind of tires to use. The street radials I have are wide, but not grippy.
      Some guys have told me MT drag radials, others Nitto (which have better sizing) and others to use full slicks.

      Any opinions on this? BFG's??

    6. #46
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      overseas
      Posts
      3,434
      Country Flag: United States
      sounds good
      Kevin S. (overseas in Germany)
      1963 Chevrolet Impala 2d ht Coupe

      www.CruznArt.com
      CRUZN - Automotive Artworks

    7. #47
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Papillion, NE
      Posts
      203
      Quote Originally Posted by Ripped View Post
      Yeah, 2.70 (or 2.8, or 2.78 something like that I never counted the teeth) The idea was to make a nice high speed highway cruiser. Which it is, turning about 1600 rpms @ 70mph.

      The plan, now (since we have no road courses here) is to take it to the strip a few times this coming summer. I am going to make it track legal, if I can. I have the battery enclosure kit and shut off, to install in the trunk, already.

      Next is reinforcing the welding around the underrider traction bars, add a good driveshaft loop.

      I have a real nice set of 3.50 gears, so I was thinking of getting a second pumpkin, with a locker

      I don't know what kind of tires to use. The street radials I have are wide, but not grippy.
      Some guys have told me MT drag radials, others Nitto (which have better sizing) and others to use full slicks.

      Any opinions on this? BFG's??
      I don't have any solid advice, my car is slippery as hell with new BFG T/A, even at 275/60. Doesn't hop but will roast them well into highway speeds.

      However, if I remember right you swapped to a TKO-500? Is that right?

      With that being said, your 5th gear with a .68 and a 2.87 gear is equiv to a 4 speed with a 1.95 gear ratio out back.

      Changing to a 3.50 would get you a total gear of 2.38, that's almost exactly where I am with my FE, and at 70 you will be at approx 2100 rpm

      The key though is with your motor, I will guarantee that it is happier and more efficient at just a slightly higher rpm, matter of fact, although I use my car for almost all long-run, high speed, highway use, I am considering a 4.11 because I run 28 inch tall tires and a .64 OD vice your .68.

      I think the 3.50 gear with a good diff would really make you happy and probably give you better mileage and drivability.
      70 Mustang - 489 cid FE, KC ported Edelbrock heads, Modified Victor Intake, Mass-flo EFI, Erson valvetrain, Supercomps, TKO-600, 4.10 9 inch.
      71 F-100 4x4 SB 4x4, 461 cid FE stroker, Edelbrock Pro-flo 4 EFI
      13 Ram Laramie 2500 4x4 6.7 diesel - trailer puller

    8. #48
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Posts
      379
      Quote Originally Posted by CruizinKev
      sounds good
      Thanks Kev, Nice MonteCarlo


      Quote Originally Posted by My427stang View Post
      I don't have any solid advice, my car is slippery as hell with new BFG T/A, even at 275/60. Doesn't hop but will roast them well into highway speeds.

      However, if I remember right you swapped to a TKO-500? Is that right?

      With that being said, your 5th gear with a .68 and a 2.87 gear is equiv to a 4 speed with a 1.95 gear ratio out back.

      Changing to a 3.50 would get you a total gear of 2.38, that's almost exactly where I am with my FE, and at 70 you will be at approx 2100 rpm

      The key though is with your motor, I will guarantee that it is happier and more efficient at just a slightly higher rpm, matter of fact, although I use my car for almost all long-run, high speed, highway use, I am considering a 4.11 because I run 28 inch tall tires and a .64 OD vice your .68.

      I think the 3.50 gear with a good diff would really make you happy and probably give you better mileage and drivability.
      Yeah, I hear what you're saying. Yes it's the TKO 5. But we have this nice long highway where a coworker of mine regularly travels. It seems like a heckuva lot of people travel at 140kph. I don't advocate going over the speed limit, but at 110kph/70mph with the current gearing and the exhaust switched to 'quiet', the car is really quiet inside. Almost civilized.

      1800-2000 rpm is a really nice place for the current cam that I have 270s)

      My current gearing puts me at 1733 rpm at 70mph,
      and in theory;
      1980 rpm @ 80
      2228 @ 90
      2460 @ 100

      I think the 3.50 gear (in my mind) is strictly for the track. I would not be able to put the power to the pavement on the street

    9. #49
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Posts
      379
      Getting track ready, battery box and switch and

      Raised the X-Pipe on the exhaust 2" higher (tagged this thing numerous times) had to use heat and a BFH to modify the exhaust in some places to gain the clearance (lowered cars have their issues)

      I also raised the rest of the exhaust 3", and went back to a smaller muffler;


      Next comes the driveshaft loop and oil pan (whic I tagged once)
      I have a new one in the moroso box in the pics, which is 1" less deep than the cobra Tee pan;

    10. #50
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Lafayette, LA, USA
      Posts
      485
      Country Flag: Canada
      That is a sharp looking car. I like the mods.
      Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting - Holy cow - what a ride!!!
      See my build

      Jason

    11. #51
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      dayton, oh
      Posts
      952
      I think you need a new camera, man. all your pics are blurry.

      cool project, tho!
      dave.t
      86 Olds 442 - Project If It Ain't Broke, Take It Apart and Fix It
      74 Javelin AMX - stocker

    12. #52
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      OK, I gotta ask....what is the 3"-4" ducting routed through the trunk for? Is it cool air ducting to the rear brakes?
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    13. #53
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Posts
      379
      Quote Originally Posted by fordsbyjay View Post
      That is a sharp looking car. I like the mods
      Thanks :D

      Quote Originally Posted by jackfrost View Post
      I think you need a new camera, man. all your pics are blurry.

      cool project, tho!
      Yes I am not a pro camera guy, had the wrong settings.



      Quote Originally Posted by John Wright View Post
      OK, I gotta ask....what is the 3"-4" ducting routed through the trunk for? Is it cool air ducting to the rear brakes?
      Yes. Regular Shelbys of the day ducted air from the side scoops to blow onto the rear tires (pointless.) These ducts discharge over the pumpkin, then are going to be ducted through to the center of the rear discs (with the exhaust work soon to be complete.) The way that it should be.

    14. #54
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Posts
      379
      Hopefully I'll be picking up my Borgeson power steering conversion, mid next week. There are not any reviews from Mustang users, but the C2 and C3 'vette guys have had really good results with this PS conversion.

      I would have a lot of trouble with the TCP rack, since my car is real low.

      I am using a Summit (chrome) sagenaw pump. I'll need to fabricate some brackets for this. No one makes a FE bracket for this setup.

      I have a new Steering wheel, and Flaming River (tilt) column, which is all going in together at the same time.

      Anyway pics and feedback, in a couple weeks
      Attached Images Attached Images      

    15. #55
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
      Posts
      54
      Thanks for the updates. Lots of work for sure.

    16. #56
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Posts
      379
      Okay here are most of the goodies. I think this is going to be a pretty big little project. Should be interesting. Lots of different variables, fittings and bracketry to make.
      Attached Images Attached Images    

    17. #57
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Salt Lake City, UT
      Posts
      94
      Quote Originally Posted by Ripped View Post
      Hopefully I'll be picking up my Borgeson power steering conversion, mid next week. There are not any reviews from Mustang users, but the C2 and C3 'vette guys have had really good results with this PS conversion.

      I would have a lot of trouble with the TCP rack, since my car is real low.

      I am using a Summit (chrome) sagenaw pump. I'll need to fabricate some brackets for this. No one makes a FE bracket for this setup.

      I have a new Steering wheel, and Flaming River (tilt) column, which is all going in together at the same time.

      Anyway pics and feedback, in a couple weeks
      Sweet. I've been looking at the Borgeson PS conversion. Looking forward to hearing your experiences with the Borgeson PS unit install AND driving experience.
      67 fastback
      351w
      Baer brakes
      G-Force T5 trans
      9" rear w/3:50 gears & 31 spline axles
      Link
      Recently moved Salt Lake City from the SF Bay area.
      Looking forward to driving on the Miller Motorsports track this summer!

    18. #58
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      SLC. UT
      Posts
      368
      Great looking car! I love how clean your engine bay is.

      I was just looking at my build and thinking I wanted to align it myself. Interested in how you did yours.
      Great work.

      Nice wheel, and How's the sound?

      Jeff -- 96 Mustang - 2V Stroked Modular Turbo // 13 RAPTOR // 67 Mustang Fastback build - Coyote 5.0

    19. #59
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Miamisburg, Oh
      Posts
      2,393
      Lookin good man!!
      69 RS
      LS7, T56 and other cool stuff
      Back on track in late 2020!
      Build Thread

    20. #60
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Posts
      379
      Quote Originally Posted by Dalamar View Post
      ... and How's the sound?
      I'm not sure what you're asking, sound of the car?

      The steering system work continues.
      I mounted the box and had to pound on the #8 header tube more. Had to also grind the shock tower reinforcing plate, as well.

      Box is mounted, column is mounted, wheel is on, sort of. I am having problems with the flaming river column, mating to the grant adaptor.

      Next I am picking up some custom p/s lines this afternoon, and will hopefully complete the fabrication of the pump bracket.

      Some pics;

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