Results 41 to 60 of 303
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11-20-2009 #41
After waiting since August the brake kit finally arrived. I had to do a little machining on the rim/hub but it was pretty easy.
One side is done already. Over the weekend, the other side, then bleed, then wait for good weather.
Old Brakes
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12-23-2009 #42I was having problems with the car's handling.
Something was majorly f-d up.
In the end, it turns out the alignment shop which spent extra time on my car, because they did not know WTF they were doing, did not tighten dowm the camber eccentric. It came loose, thus the front end was dangerously screwed up.
I ended up deciding to order my own alignment tool from summit.
Bumpsteer kit
Street or Track adjustable strut rod kit, which eliminates the rubber strut bushings and allows fiction free articulation of the strut via the heim joint.
Putting the parts on was easy.
Doing the bumpsteer measurments and adjustments was very time consuming (10 hours +/-)
Doing my own home alignment was not really all that hard. I was careful to make levelling blocks so the car sits perfectly flat (used my laser level)
I even got the steering wheel perfectly centered first time
Bumpsteer was a process unto itself. 1st I had to remove the shocks and springs one side at a time, and the sway bar.
I then set up the laser on a vertical axis, with two targets on my angle about 40" apart (further apart for more accurate measurments)
Then it was up/down -change shims
up/down -change shims
etc
etc
Then plug the numbers into a spreadsheet and see what looked the best.
I think the final bump and final droop, were mostly throw-away numbers, even though they were not bad. It is not too likely the car will reach full droop in real world driving. and full bump may find spring bind, before it reaches that point.
Despite all that, the final numbers are very good.
Anyone thinking of doing this, it's worth it!
12-25-2009 #43I took all my kids out on Christmas eve for a go at driving the beast. I especially wanted to get a video of my youngest son (who is on leave from the army) driving "Thunder"
No bottoming out on bumpy roads with the new shocks and 4 adults in the car.
Then dad had a turn. The exhaust note might be a little too quiet, though. I'll have to fix that ;)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HIm1pgVYCg
12-25-2009 #44Registered User- Join Date
- Oct 2004
- Location
- Papillion, NE
- Posts
- 203
Do you really have a 2.78 rear gear?
If so, make a 3.70 your next bet, with a 5 speed you need some gear.
If I remember right, you have a 3.27 1st gear? If so go with 3.50's or 3.70's, otherwise 1st will get real short.
If you have a 2.87 1st, go with 3.89 or 4.11. That thing will feel like a monster.
BTW, I think it sounds just right, that exhaust has a great sound
70 Mustang - 489 cid FE, KC ported Edelbrock heads, Modified Victor Intake, Mass-flo EFI, Erson valvetrain, Supercomps, TKO-600, 4.10 9 inch.
71 F-100 4x4 SB 4x4, 461 cid FE stroker, Edelbrock Pro-flo 4 EFI
13 Ram Laramie 2500 4x4 6.7 diesel - trailer puller
12-25-2009 #45Yeah, 2.70 (or 2.8, or 2.78 something like that I never counted the teeth) The idea was to make a nice high speed highway cruiser. Which it is, turning about 1600 rpms @ 70mph.
The plan, now (since we have no road courses here) is to take it to the strip a few times this coming summer. I am going to make it track legal, if I can. I have the battery enclosure kit and shut off, to install in the trunk, already.
Next is reinforcing the welding around the underrider traction bars, add a good driveshaft loop.
I have a real nice set of 3.50 gears, so I was thinking of getting a second pumpkin, with a locker
I don't know what kind of tires to use. The street radials I have are wide, but not grippy.
Some guys have told me MT drag radials, others Nitto (which have better sizing) and others to use full slicks.
Any opinions on this? BFG's??
12-26-2009 #46