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    Results 101 to 120 of 140
    1. #101
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Southern California
      Posts
      566
      Country Flag: United States
      Looking good Mike! Nice find with the relays!
      Jon
      Jon U.

      1968 GTO - SC&C Suspension, Forgeline SO3 Wheels
      Build Thread
      1967 911 with a few mods

    2. #102
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Miamisburg, Oh
      Posts
      2,396
      Ditto! Nice going with those relays man, that's good planning.

      I wasn't aware of the Electric Life issues some have had so thanks for bringing that up. I'll be on the look-out for it and try to plan around it when I do mine.
      69 RS
      LS7, T56 and other cool stuff
      Back on track in late 2020!
      Build Thread

    3. #103
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Walla Walla, WA
      Posts
      1,512
      Country Flag: United States
      Well, I've decided to bite the bullet and install the engine. I'm just not going to be able to figure out the wiring, cable runs, etc. without knowing where all the engine wiring is going to go. I moved all the crap in the garage that was in front of the engine out of the way and rolled it out to the shop. (I'd stored it on a furniture dolly to make this step pretty easy. I'll need to fill the space formerly occupied by the engine before the wife reclaims it.) A few minutes removing the lag bolts securing the crate, and popping open the front end to slide the crate out of the way and voilą - 480 horsepower of LS3 beauty:





      I pulled the flex plate and ordered a pilot bearing that won't be here until Tuesday. I'll probably wait to install the pilot bearing before hanging the engine in the car.

      When I test fit an LS1 in the car, I barely had clearance over the steering rack and had about 1.5" between the passenger side head and the fire wall. The F-body pan on the test LS1 was a bit shallower than the Corvette pan fitted to the LS3, but I'd like to avoid changing oil pans on the LS3.

      LS1 Fbody pan showing depth of pan and how close it is to the rack



      LS3 Pan is a little deeper



      I'm going to try placing the LS3 a little farther back in the car and a touch higher. That's accomplished with a combination of different LSx adapter plates and the older style motor mounts.

      I originally test fit the LS1 using Autokraft adapter plates (the aluminum plates in the picture below).



      In the picture, the black adapter plate is from Doug's (Pertronix) and the aluminum plate is the Autokraft adapter I used for the test fit. If you look at the two adapter plates there's a triangular pattern of small holes in the Doug's plate and a similar triangular pattern of the two studs and a small hole in the Autokraft plate. The triangular pattern is the mounting point for the traditional motor mount and is where the mount bolts to the chassis. The four bolt hole pattern is where the adapter plate bolts to the LSx engine. As you can see by comparing the relative position of the triangular and rectangular patterns in the two plates, the Autokraft plates locate the engine about 1" farther forward than the Doug's plate. The Doug's plate gives you two fore-aft mounting points, while the Hooker plate shown below with the Doug's plate gives you just one, which is the same as the more rearward position on the Doug's plate.



      Both the Hooker and Doug's plates also raise the engine slightly as compared to the Autokraft plates.
      The second way in which I hope to gain a little more room for the LS3 pan is to use "tall-wide" motor mounts rather than the "short-narrow" mounts I used for the test fit. The picture below shows the difference:



      So engine in probably next weekend.

      By the way, the "fitment" LS1 has since been rebuilt with an LS2 factory crank, LS2 floating pin rods, forged Mahle pistons and a pretty healthy cam (227/231 .614/.617" 113LSA) and will get an LS6 intake, TFS 215 CNC'd heads, an LS2 MAF and a ported LS6 throttle body before it's slipped into the '67.
      Last edited by Mkelcy; 05-30-2010 at 07:52 PM.
      Mike Kelcy - '68 Camaro with some stuff done to it.

    4. #104
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,569
      Country Flag: United States
      How do you think this will affect your header fitment? Was there a lot of room before ?
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    5. #105
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Walla Walla, WA
      Posts
      1,512
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Motown 454 View Post
      How do you think this will affect your header fitment? Was the a lot of room before ?
      The only issues I can think of might be the steering shaft down to the steering rack or header interference with the fire wall.





      I think I'll be okay, and if nothing else I can use the intermediate positon on the Doug's adapter plates. If all else fails, I've got the original Fbody oil pan as well as an Autokraft pan sitting around.
      Mike Kelcy - '68 Camaro with some stuff done to it.

    6. #106
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,569
      Country Flag: United States
      You should be able to get one of those setups to fit. The car looks great nice work.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    7. #107
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Location
      Chico, Ca
      Posts
      41
      Country Flag: United States
      Sweet build!!! I cant wait to see this machine on the ground...What do the Stewart Warner gauges look like at night do you have any pictures?

      I agree with you on the whole 10k RPM tachs, I'm not planning on an engine that spins that many rpms ... I was looking for a 5" tach that read 8K~ish RPMS and Stewart Warner gauges are always nice
      Nevin

    8. #108
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Walla Walla, WA
      Posts
      1,512
      Country Flag: United States

      August Update

      Well, I had to review my own build thread to see where I'd stopped writing. I feel like I'm not making any progress, but then it seems I do take a couple of steps forward from time to time.

      In my last post, I'd detailed how the Luxury Liner Pro had come off the under side of the cowl and dash. I decided to move on to something else while I considered what to do with the LLP.

      One of the perverse "benefits" of storing the car outside during the build is that you get to see what rusts. Over the winter with all the rain we got, I've found a number of bolts and other pieces that have rusted, including some of the hardware on the rack. I removed the rack, cleaned up the rust and painted it a fairly bright red. It's something I actually want people to notice when the hood's up. You can see the rack in some of the pictures below. While I was at it, I also painted the heads of a lot of the front end hardware.

      After painting the rack, I decided I needed to install the engine (LS3 480/376) and Viper T56 transmission to start figuring out my wiring harness layout. Prior to the install I had the headers made by the subframe builder coated "titanium." For the engine install I tried using the most rearward position on the Pertronix plates (SK100) - about 1.0" back and 0.25" up, but the passenger side head ended up too close to the firewall for my taste and the LS3 pan still didn't clear the subframe cross member. So I swapped out the LS3 pan for an AutoKraft pan I had on hand just in case the LS3 pan didn't work and reinstalled the engine with the headers using the more forward mounting position (which is the same as the Hooker plates) - about 0.5" back and 0.25" up relative to the AutoKraft/ATS plates.

      Everything went in well, with the exception that the AutoKraft pan uses an oil filter adapter that mounts the oil filter much more outboard than the stock pan. As a result, the cover that routes the oil out of and immediately back into the oil filter adapter wouldn't clear the number 7 header tube.

      Here's the adapter and the headers:





      Here's the cover that needs to be bolted to the adapter right where the headers are nearest to the adapter:



      and here's the adapter, before machining:



      After considering my options, I had the oil filter adapter hogged out between the two sides, so the crossover otherwise provided by the cover is entirely within the oil filter adapter, and had a flat plate made to seal the opening.





      I like that the machine shop even angled the end of the plate to match the angle of the oil filter adapter.



      Here's the finished product:



      The rear mounting pad on the Viper T56 is about 1.5" to 2.0" lower from the centerline of the output shaft than on an LS1 T56. As a result, although the location was pretty good without a transmission mount



      I had to cut up and re-weld the transmission cross member in order to lower and move the mount somewhat forward from the position it ended up with when this was a SBC/LS1 T56 build.

      I cut out the center of the rectangular tube cross-member and used 0.25" x 2" plate steel to make two legs and a new center section. I'd planned on re-using the original tubular center section, but the added depth had the cross-member about an inch or so below the subframe, which didn't seem like a good idea. I used gussets on the inside of the center section to add vertical strength. If it turns out that's not enough, I'll add gussets on the outside as well. As it is, I can hang from the cross member while it is supporting the engine and transmission and it doesn't deflect, so I'm guessing it's okay.




      The last thing I did was cut the hole for the shifter and weld the original 4 speed shifter hole back into the transmission tunnel.



      I'm not planning on running a console in this car, so my plan was to try to run an original style 4 speed shifter boot using the stock mounting plate. If that doesn't work, I'll use something from Lokar (probably) and make an adapter plate to adapt the stock mounting plate to the Lokar boot.

      So, back to the Luxury Liner Pro.

      I reinstalled all of the pieces that had come down, carefully timing the drying time for the adhesive. Unfortunately, a few days later it was once again sagging. So I took it all out (from the under side of the cowl and dash) and installed 0.5" thick Dyna Liner. It's a lighter product and, as a result, seems to adhere well. We'll see how it is in a few days.







      Between reinstalling the LLP and then the Dyna Liner, I installed Second Skin's Damplifier Pro (think DynaMat) and Heat Wave Pro on the roof. The Heat Wave Pro is a 0.5" thick "foil faced, fire retardant heat and noise insulation mat made out of natural fibers" (chopped up fabric). I made paper templates for the front and rear sections and cut the Damplifier Pro and Heat Wave Pro to size. I taped the edges of the Heat Wave Pro (and may have to untape one edge to run the courtesy light wire).



      The Heat Wave Pro is a lighter product than the LLP and seems to be adhering well to the roof.

      The thermal results are really impressive. As I've mentioned, the car won't fit in the shop, so I keep it on a pad out in the sun when I'm working on it. Here in SoCal with the sun blazing down on the car, it got really hot in there. After the install of the HWP last week, I checked the outside and inside temperatures on the roof of the car just now (11:00 am), with the car pretty much heat soaked. The pictures tell the story:





      I'm pretty certain the HWP will make a big difference in how effective the AC will be.

      Here's the engine and front end now:







      and passenger side head to fire wall:



      So, I need to get the paint shop to make up a spray bomb of my body color for the dash and steering column, then paint and install those items; I need to continue to work out the physical wire runs for the ISIS system and re-install the glove box insert for the master and body power cell, plan the engine harness install and so on, and so on, and so on.

      Mike Kelcy - '68 Camaro with some stuff done to it.


    9. #109
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Newbury Park, CA
      Posts
      5,827
      Country Flag: United States
      It's coming along well Mike!
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    10. #110
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Maryville, TN
      Posts
      839
      Ahh, new inspiration for my own build. I dig it man!

      Dan
      A.K.A: That bald guy
      Find me on Facebook or my personal website.

      - 67 Camaro: Current Project Car

    11. #111
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,569
      Country Flag: United States
      Its looking great.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    12. #112
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Burnaby, BC, Canada
      Posts
      1,388
      Looking real good, nice job on the driveline install.
      1969 CAMARO RS

      2002 LS1-T56 Dyno results: 452 rwhp, 425 rwtq
      Project pics of my '69
      Lateral-G Feature Page
      Camaro Performers Magazine Feature

    13. #113
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      147
      Just finished reading this thread. Very informative. Thanks. the car looks great.

    14. #114
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      madisonville,tn
      Posts
      96
      Keep up the good work!
      Dan
      1969 rs, bbc, tremec 600, 12 bolt, mini tubs, dse a-arms, springs, iforge wheels...

    15. #115
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Walla Walla, WA
      Posts
      1,512
      Country Flag: United States
      Tiny little update, not even any pictures.

      I test fit the GM front accessories (19155167 - GMPP Accessory Drive System Without A/C - Fits LS2, LS3 & LS7 Engines http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...&ProdID=248708) and the Kwik AC compressor bracket today in preparation for taking them in for powder coating. Everything lined up well and it was a delight - after all the after market stuff that's taken days to get right - to simply bolt stuff on to the engine and have it all fit, including the Kwik bracket, the way it should with no need to fabricate or alter anything.

      After I took everything off again, I spent a good portion of the day smoothing casting flash and other imperfections on the main accessory bracket. I then took the PS pump up to Lee Manufacturing to have the flow reduced (because of the rack) and the pressure increased (because of the hydroboost). They said if that was all I needed, they'd do it while I waited. So $20 and about 8 minutes later, my PS pump is done and ready to go.

      On the way back from Lee, I dropped the accessory brackets off at the powder coater for satin black powder coating. (It's great living in SoCal where you can just pop by and get things done.) They should be ready next week. I'll reassemble and take pictures.

      My kitchen is a mess right now with ISIS boxes and wiring tools and parts everywhere. (The wife's out of town.) I think I've figured out how I'm going to do the ISIS wiring.

      As I've mentioned, I'm putting the Master Cell and body Power Cell on an aluminum chassis (manufactured by a forum member) in the glove box area. The MC has two 32 wire cables and the multiplex cable coming off it, and the body PC has two 6 wire cables, two heavy gauge power wires and the multiplex cable from the MC coming off it and headed to another PC. In addition, I wanted to have a small 4 position terminal strip for "ignition" ground, "accessory" ground, chassis ground and a spare. (All inputs to the MC are ground signals.) So, long story short, there's a lot of wire running around on this chassis and I wasn't sure how to keep it all under control.

      My plan is to simply route all of the cables straight out the top or bottom of the chassis, returning those that need to go onto the terminal strip through the chassis. So when you look at the chassis, you'll see the MC, the PC and the wiring routed out by the shortest route. I'll need to shorten the multiplex cable from about 4 feet between the MC and PC connectors to about 6", but that's not an issue.

      Finally I need to get the two heavy (10 gauge maybe?) power wires to the PC on the glove box chassis. My plan for those is to run them out of the cabin into the cowl air plenum then through the firewall near the HVAC hoses and then to the radiator core support where I'll mount the ISIS 4 gang fuse box (2 for the body PC and 2 for the front PC). There'll be another 2 fuse box in the trunk for the rear PC.

      My plan for this car is long distance cruiser (think SoCal to Maine.) So stock parts and easy servicing are all important. After laying out the GMPP harness and being initially disappointed that I either pull the engine to cut a pass-through into the cabin to hide all the wiring or stick the ECU out in the open, I've come around to liking the idea of the ECU being mounted in the engine compartment.

      I'll mount the ECU and the rather large fuse box for the GMPP harness on a piece of either powder coated sheet metal or heavy plexiglass side by side on the fender. You'll see the big main portion of the harness and the harness to the fuse box coming from the engine to the passenger side fender, but I'm not sure that bothers me.

      So, pictures with the next update as the front of the engine and the wiring starts to come together.
      Mike Kelcy - '68 Camaro with some stuff done to it.

    16. #116
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,569
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice progress. Let me know when you make that trip to Maine so when you go by Mass. I can see the car. lol
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    17. #117
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      266
      Country Flag: United States
      i love the project name. its even better then mine, lol

    18. #118
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Walla Walla, WA
      Posts
      1,512
      Country Flag: United States
      Got a little more work done today. I picked everything up from the powder coater and put the accessory drive back on the engine. I'm pretty pleased with what will turn out to be a fairly inexpensive set-up.





      Remember this is a long haul cruiser, so easy serviceability and ready availability of parts is key. The GMPP front drive w/o AC was about $600, I just picked up a Sanden compressor for about $210, and the powder coating was about $150. With the Kwik bracket, the hardware, the powder coating and the modification of the steering pump, I'll be around $1,200 for the complete accessory drive.

      I like the looks of the Kwik AC compressor brackets, but the hardware (as you can see) was a very bright silver - not my taste. So a little time on the McMaster-Carr site and an obscene (for just a few bolts) amount of money later, I have nice black oxide hardware on the way. When the hardware gets here I'll put it all together and post a completed picture.

      I'm installing a Gen II Vintage Air system in the car (that I picked up from a member) so I need to piece the balance of the system together - which was the idea. There are a lot of Sanden compressors out there, but the Kwik site actually made some recommendations which I followed. I got the Sanden 4645, which is a truck AC compressor with the biggest displacement of the fixed displacement Sanden compressors. Again, long distance hauler and I don't want to be sweating as I tour.

      I also finally figured out how I wanted to run the wiring for the ISIS master cell and the body power cell mounted on the glove box insert. So I drilled my various holes and then had the glove box insert powder coated. I'll work on actually getting it back into the car this weekend, but I'm pretty content with the way it's coming out.





      The little 4 post terminal strip (which I'll straighten when I replace the mounting hardware with prettier socket head bolts) will be a distribution point for chassis ground, ignition ground and accessory ground, with a spare for future needs.

      And because I wasn't already spending enough on this project, I ordered one of the vapor worx fuel tanks. Having had EFI in my blue '68, I really don't want to worry about fuel starvation when I get to a half tank of gas (although the tank I had built for the blue '68 worked very well and was under $1,000).
      Mike Kelcy - '68 Camaro with some stuff done to it.

    19. #119
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Newbury Park, CA
      Posts
      5,827
      Country Flag: United States
      You have to like $20 to get the pump tuned-up. Those guys are great.

      Your tank is in the works Mike. Thanks!
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    20. #120
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Walla Walla, WA
      Posts
      1,512
      Country Flag: United States
      I had some time today to continue working on the ISIS install and the front accessory drive.

      I bit the bullet and started cutting and crimping connections to install the terminal strip and the multiplex cable that communicates between the master cell and the power cells.

      I ran my 4 ignition inputs to the master cell to one pin on the terminal strip and then ran a red wire from that to go out to the ignition switch and other things that are supposed to operate only when the ignition is on - such as the reverse lockout and reverse lights. I ran my 4 accessory inputs to the master cell to another pin on the terminal strip and then ran a pink wire from that to go out to the ignition switch and other things that are supposed to operate when the ignition switch is in the accessory position - such as the parking lights. And I grounded the master cell to a third pin on the terminal strip and then ran a black wire out to go out to the ignition switch as the "power" in and other things that are supposed to operate all the time - such as the horn. One of the nice things about doing my own harness is that I can decide what gets juice when.

      I also had to shorten the distance between two connectors on the multiplex cable from about 4' to 6". I cut the wires on each connector so the crimps and heat shrink insulation were staggered along the 6", so the wouldn't make a big bulge in the center of the joined cable.

      Finally, I ran the multiplex cable through its access hole in the glove box insert and installed an 8 pin connector so I can make up a cable with the correct length for the run out to the front power cell.

      Here's the progress to date:







      I received the hardware I ordered from McMaster-Carr by mid-morning, so I finished up the install of the front accessory drive.







      On reflection, I also decided to get the Katech tensioner pulley, which is adjusted and then locked down rather than spring loaded. When I get the Katech tensioner, which is also black, I'll get a belt and finish the install.

      Next jobs, in no particular order, are: run the power cables for the power cell on the glove box insert; install the glove box insert in the car; paint, reassemble and install the steering column; repair a ding in the instrument cluster and paint it; adjust the passenger side windows' and so on.

      One thing I'll also do is install the kick panels. I had them installed it seems like six months ago when I realized that I couldn't install the glove box insert with the Vintage Air evaporator unit in, and I couldn't remove the Vintage Air evaporator unit without removing the kick panel and I couldn't install the glove box insert without figuring out all the wiring I've been doing. So those kick panels have been haunting me for a long time. When I get the passenger side kick panel in, it will actually feel like I'm moving ahead again.
      Mike Kelcy - '68 Camaro with some stuff done to it.

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