69 Chevelle SS396 "Grizelda"

[gearheads78]

nice project...you will love the suspension stuff

[Roadbuster]

Tomorrow I'll start removing the master cylinder, brake booster and calipers... I just need to buy some tubing wrenches (could have sworn I had the size I needed... somewhere...)

Parts are due in sometime mid-to-late next week.

Don't forget the cutters! Those tube nuts can refuse to come off while they are in a hard to reach location!

Jon

[GenPac]

After a short trip to the auto accessory store (I call it that because they never have the parts I need) I picked up some tubing combination wrenches.


First thing, I dropped the calipers and let whatever fluid was in the lines drip out. Next, I opened the lid of the M/C and siphoned out the brakefluid in it.

Next, I disconnected and removed the Vacuum canister I was using for 7 years or more as a bandaid to the low vacuum producing camshaft. Was good for about 2-3 good brakings then stiff pedal.

Luckily, I had no issues loosening the brake hard lines (thank god) and the M/C came off without much fuss. Upon removal, it was obvious the rear seal in the M/C was leaking into the booster.

And here is an ode to the most difficult to remove nuts I have ever had the pleasure to deal with on this car to date. Booser to firewall nuts. No room what-so-ever... U-joint adapters don't work, barely get my hands in there. Ended up having to bend the inner fender liner out of the way to get at the lower nuts. This is where I really, really pat myself on the back for deciding to go with plastic fenderwells instead of the metal ones.


and last but not least, a pic of the booster and M/C removed. I haven't fully decided on what M/C to use, though I am leaning towards a 7/8 bore one. I have searched around and came across a 7/8" bore from a late 70s Monza, but am unsure if the lines exit from the Drivers or Passengers side. Of course, no one has one in stock to look at, so I am doomed to special order one and keep it if it's wrong.
If it doesn't work out, I might go with a willwood tandem setup as I plan on getting matching rear brakes at a later date.

[GenPac]

Taking my thread a different direction from the brake upgrade... I saw an opportunity in the PT for sale section and picked up some Hotchkis upper and lower Control arms (uppers adjustable) with low wear.
There are some braces in there also, Edelbrock, I was told. Doesn't look vey sturdy compared to the Hotchkis pieces, so I might end up just picking up some Hotchkis replacements.

I realize the UCAs are not ideal nor are the poly/poly lower bushings... This is merely a starting point as I plan on putting jonny joints in the axle side of the lowers and eventually replacing the UCAs for the edelbrock versions. I just needed something cheap_ish to be able to adjust my pinion angle and axle centering problem, at the same time beefing up the LCAs.

[GenPac]

KORE3 325mm brakes came in today and I got started right away.
Everything was going right as rain but one snag...




The bolts for the rear of the steering arm(the lower brake bracked hole) was too short. I had to reuse the front steering arm bolt for the rear and used the new lock nut. Works fine but would have liked the new G8 bolts to be long enough.



Next up is test fitting my wheels to make sure I have enough caliper clearance... Yes, I measured initially and found out I needed a spacer. So, later I'll be checking caliper clearance with a 1/4" billet spacer.

[GenPac]

1/4" spacer was just what it needed.




It'll be a little while 'till I can get it on the road to check for rubbing (was none before) now the the track width and backspace has changed slightly.

[GenPac]

I had another 'issue' come up putting on the brake hoses...
My bracket that holds the end of the brake hose looks like this...


and the end of the hose looks like this...



CLearly my bracket is not HEX and the hose is... What to do?

Out comes the dremel...



Ahh, that's better. I wasn't able to push the brake hose end up through the bracket due to the two extra ends of the hex fitting. A little tapered dremeling and it fit well and I left enough material at the base of the HEX fitting so it wouldn't pull through when the clip was attached.

[ADaughen]

KORE3 325mm brakes came in today and I got started right away.
Everything was going right as rain but one snag...




The bolts for the rear of the steering arm(the lower brake bracked hole) was too short. I had to reuse the front steering arm bolt for the rear and used the new lock nut. Works fine but would have liked the new G8 bolts to be long enough.

Is it possible that you have the front and rear bolts backwards? It looks like the front bolt only goes through the spindle and steering arm, the rear goes through the caliper bracket as well. The top down photo looks like you could swap and they should be the correct length...

Not that I haven't done that before. ;)

[GenPac]

Is it possible that you have the front and rear bolts backwards? It looks like the front bolt only goes through the spindle and steering arm, the rear goes through the caliper bracket as well. The top down photo looks like you could swap and they should be the correct length...

Not that I haven't done that before. ;)

Believe me, I tried.

The problem is that the other supplied bolt is actually shorter than the shortest OEM bolt by about 1/4". On the front hole, the bolt threads won't even show.

[Motown 454]

Your brakes look great and nice work with the dremel tool.

[GenPac]

So... Dismantling the rear end went OK... well, as ok as could be. Using a bushing press from Checkers pressing in the new upper control arm bushings in the axle ears... I broke the tool.

THe threads stripped inside the cast clamp piece. What a waste of metal. So now I'm off to find another one to finish the job...

[GenPac]

I ended up finding another control arm bushing remover/installer tool, but I broke it too. :bsjerk:
I am about 1/4" from having the bushing fully seated so I think I'll call it good enough because I just don't have the patience for it anymore.
Once I get it road worthy again, I'll take it to Dan's Driveline here in Vegas to have new bushings installed again.

[GenPac]

Ok... big day this evening... Finished installing the Hotchkis adjustable UCA and non-adjustable LCAs. Trying to line up the rearend when all of the 4-link pieces are removed is a bitch to do by yourself.

Had a little time to do some recon work for Tobin so he can figure out why I had to clearance the brake lines in order to be able to fit the frame attaching clip.
Old brake line style:

Old brake line clearance from lock ring that butts up against the frame mount to the clip slot:

New KOREFlex clearance, same dimensions:

This is why I had to dremel taper the hex portion of the new line... so I could get enough room to install the clip! I know I probably shouldn't have, but I am just one of those kinda guys that will make a square peg fit in a round hole -- even if it takes me all day, I will find a way.

Next are some pics of my brake lines that look to be a little too short with some harrowing bends...
Driver's side -- full lock right turn:

Driver's side -- full lock left turn:

Pass side -- full lock right turn:

Pass side -- full lock left turn:


As I was taking pictures I realized that because I had to clearance the hex parts of the brake lines, they may not be indexed properly causing at least part of the crushing of the lines on full lock. (not the parts when the line is stretched) If they weren't indexed with the hex and were actually just butted against the frame mount, I could probably loosen the clip and turn the hose so it has a more free movement... But, since I had to clearance/taper the hex inorder to be able to slide the clip on, I can't reindex the line so I am really kinda stuck with how they are installed.

GAh, why didn't I just NOT have to make them FIT! I feel like a backwoods inbred moron for having done that.

[Bwazcat]

Dan,
I'm currently working on a '69 pro-touring el Camino and have a question about the tire/wheel fitment shown on this thread.

Did the offset on the Billet wheels require adaptors or was it a direct fit?

Also, be glad you didn't order the AFX spindles. The way they operate, your ride would still be in the garage on cinder blocks with an empty space between the upper and lower A-arms.

[GenPac]

Dan,
I'm currently working on a '69 pro-touring el Camino and have a question about the tire/wheel fitment shown on this thread.

Did the offset on the Billet wheels require adaptors or was it a direct fit?

Also, be glad you didn't order the AFX spindles. The way they operate, your ride would still be in the garage on cinder blocks with an empty space between the upper and lower A-arms.

Hah, Yeah... I feel bad for all the folks out there that are still waiting on them. Once the company sale goes through and there's proof that the quality is still there, I might swap for some AFX shorts.

The fitment, before adding C5 brakes, fit with no spacers, front and rear. The front sits VERY close to the outer lip of the fender and I could have gone with an even bigger backspace but I wanted it as far out, maximizing track width, as I could.
Now, I can't tell you if this exact backspacing will fit on the rear of an Elky... The front will fit, just unsure on the rear because well, you have a psudo-truck bed and I have a coupe -- so the wheel wells might have different measurements.

[nvmyss]

Wow one post and it's knocking ATS.
I'd be more mindful of the full picture before you bad mouth company's like that.

Dan,
I'm currently working on a '69 pro-touring el Camino and have a question about the tire/wheel fitment shown on this thread.

Did the offset on the Billet wheels require adaptors or was it a direct fit?

Also, be glad you didn't order the AFX spindles. The way they operate, your ride would still be in the garage on cinder blocks with an empty space between the upper and lower A-arms.

[GenPac]

Tobin @ KORE3 sent me a couple brackets that were thinner than the factory ones...


He also sent along a shorter brake hose that worked much better than the others... no binding to the point of pinching the line. Here are some pics of how the line is routed and freely moves in the range of motion.
Passenger side...


Passenger side...


Drivers side...

[GenPac]

My first Wilwood M/C - 7/8" bore was worthless. It would not bleed at all, bench, recirc, on car... nothing.
New (replacement) M/C came in today, though. I'll be attempting a bench bleed this weekend...
I pray to the all mighty jeebus it works this time.

[tones2SS]

Cool project.
You're really making some headway now!

[GenPac]

Been a while since my last update and any 'real' progress made.
I have since replaced the fuel tank sending unit and I now have a working fuel guage again.
Thinking of the future, I planned on going to fuel injection with the powerplant, so I decided to not spend the $200~ or so on a new GM sending unit. I went with the Ground Up repro sending unit. Couple issues I had with it... the feed and vapour return lines are not bent a the correct angle so they rub on the bottom of the trunk pan making it difficult to get at the rubber hoses that connect to the frame lines. Also, the ground wire was tragically 2" too short. I noticed this before I put it in, but thought I might have enough slack... Nope... had to extend with some wire and solder/heatshrink it.

I also took a few minutes to begin the process of replacing the body bushings beginning with the radiator core support. Not a tough process, just alot of rust and dirt and sweat.
The last few weeks have been hellish weather... had a week of mid 110s then a week of Thundershowers with 100° temps and humidity (rare here) and another week of 110s... This has slowed my will to progress alot! That being said, I have an AGR billet series quick ratio steering box on the way here... I am very interested in replacing my really worn steering gear.