FINALLY started the 454 and i think the Ultradyne cam went flat!

**Zefhix** · 03-07-2005

Oh, that's what I forgot to put, the crank gets the first douse of filtered oil. Thanks Prodigy....
1/8" is a crapload to be off RumbleBee. How frustrating!!!

Jody-I would definitely plug the bypass on your motor and run an oil-pressure shutoff switch. Alot of times the bypass opens when it shouldn't at high pressures.
Here's the kit I was talking about from AFR but they don't make one for BBC so the 462 I just helped with must have had another manufacturer. I'll find out if you're interested.

**yody** · 03-07-2005

thanks. BTW i am cody, not jody

yeah i am definetly not messing with a hydro roller, if anything i will do solid roller, the motors comign out tomorrow so i will have to make some decisions

**Zefhix** · 03-07-2005

Originally Posted by yody

thanks. BTW i am cody, not jody

yeah i am definetly not messing with a hydro roller, if anything i will do solid roller, the motors comign out tomorrow so i will have to make some decisions

Oopps! Sorry Cody..I meant to write yody...not sure how I got to jody. Anyway...I'm trying hydro rollers in my 468 with a custom grind Comp cam so we'll see how it goes....good luck.

**yody** · 03-07-2005

thanks for all the input, i just realized i sounded kinda snotty, wasn't intended!

**Zefhix** · 03-08-2005

Originally Posted by yody

thanks for all the input, i just realized i sounded kinda snotty, wasn't intended!

No worries...I'm no expert by any means. BTW-if you call Canton they can build you an autocross pan for BBC. I'm actually having problems finding a company that already produces one.

**Norm Peterson** · 03-08-2005

Out of curiosity, how much spring pressure over the nose are you running? I know I've seen recommendations to break in an engine that's been spec'd with a stiff dual spring arrangement using the outers only (since you're not going anywhere near redline in the first 30 minutes). The inners go in after your cam/lifters are broken in.

Don't forget to inspect the cam bearings.

Norm

**yody** · 03-08-2005

yeah, the inners had already been pulled out. I am going to pull the motor, completely disassemble, clean and ressassembl. Put a solid roller isky in it
256/263, .680 lift
got to have the pistons fly cut for this cam though
no cam break in for me! hopefully the isky red zone lifters will last

**yody** · 03-08-2005

btw milodon makes a road race pan for $350 but it has no dipstick

**OHCbird** · 03-08-2005

BBCs have 1.7 stock , not 1.5 or 1.6.

Yody-
Good luck & be patient!

**yody** · 03-08-2005

i pulled the intake and three lobes arent' evern lobes anymore!! so out comes the motor today.

**68protouring454** · 03-10-2005

sorry to hear that cody, how long did motor run?? didn't see where you mentioned you ran it for 15-25 mins at 2000+? i am sure you did, i had a hydraulic cam go flat after 1200 miles, just one lobe, sucks , well let us know what you are going to go with
jake

**Zefhix** · 03-10-2005

Originally Posted by OHCbird

BBCs have 1.7 stock , not 1.5 or 1.6.

Yody-
Good luck & be patient!

Actually, I knew that! Damn my dominantly small block backround!

**yody** · 03-10-2005

Heres the update, turns out i somehow forgot to take out the inner valve springs on one of the heads, and consequently, the lobes that went flat were on that side of the motor! so that is why the cam went flat. I have pulled the motor and trans. The motor is completely disassembled adn the block is getting hot tanked and the crank polished. I am putting a custom ground isky solid roller cam in with iskys red zone lifters and springs
254/263 @.050 .680 lift
i might have to fly cut the pistons, but won't know until mock up. I will degree the cam check PVC clearance, reassemble the motor and put it all back in. let you guys know how it goes

**paul67** · 03-10-2005

Just a quicky a friend put new cam in ran engine got tappet noise stripped engine found the cam paste had blocked the oil ways up and took the cam out took less than 1 hr running in time
paul67

**BRIAN** · 03-10-2005

For the amount of money you probably have in that thing have the motor broken in and dialed in on a dyno. Probably $5-700 depending on where you are. You probably did more than that in damage just by pulling and reinstalling. Why risk it and it will also help you with REAL HP numbers. On such a detailed car it is a must. BY THE WAY IF YOU ARE USING THE MOLY PASTE TAKE IT EASY ON THAT STUFF IT CAN CLOG PASSAGES!! Good luck!!

**Norm Peterson** · 03-10-2005

My understanding is that you only need the moly paste for breaking in flat tappet cams. IIRC it's an extreme pressure lubricant that eases sliding friction/keeps you from getting metal sliding on metal under heavy load. With a roller cam it's probably not necessary (it wasn't with my .500-ish SBC HR, and I had specifically inquired about doing it). But it wouldn't hurt a bit to put a tiny dab on each pushrod end, as that's still a metal-sliding-on-metal situation.

That said, you probably should set the lifters - and the roller ends in particular - in oil long enough to ensure that oil gets inside and coats all the needle bearings and their races. Roll the rollers to help make sure.

Sorry about the extent of the bad news.

If you haven't thrown all the bad parts out already, take a look at ALL of the lifters, and place a straightedge across the ends that ride on the cam lobes. The lifters should be ever so slightly convex (to enhance rotation and uniform wear). You'll probably find a number that are concave, and the really bad ones you won't need the straightedge to diagnose.

Look for any concave-ness that isn't generally spherical in shape. That could indicate a lifter/lifter bore that was sticking and preventing lifter rotation. If you have that condition you'll want to fix it. The roller part of the lifter and its cam lobe probably wouldn't mind it too much, but it can't be a good situation for the lifter body and might cost you a few rpm up top.

Norm

**yody** · 03-10-2005

all of the lifters were free in the bores, and would rotate. Excelpt for the bottom of the flat ones. all of the othert lifter/lobes looked very good, especiall the ones on the side which had the inner springs removed. I am spending enough money as it is on the solid roller setup which leaves me no room for dyno. i wish though. Also no moly on roller stuff just oil

**BRIAN** · 03-10-2005

Hey I am sorry you are having any problem as it just sucks to tear something like that apart. Built quit a few cars and anything with that detail is run first. Excessive heat, burnt headers and surrounding paint, discolored parts, Leaks that damages coatings, etc. $500 is money saved. Good luck! not trying to preach but it could cost you a lot more in the end. Look around you might find slow shop and get deal. Plus remember without it you still have to deal with tuning, jetting, adjustments, etc.

**yody** · 03-10-2005

I hear you on that, but actually my headers were fine, nothing discolored, no leakes, everything was perfect!

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