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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Posts
      296

      Baer vs Wilwood....better choice for the money?

      Hey guys,
      I have been going back and forth between Wilwood and Baer 6 piston set-ups for my front disc upgrade and rear drum to disc conversion. For those that have used these manufacturers, for the money is there any real advantage of one over the other? Thanks.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2002
      Location
      Lost Wages, Nevada
      Posts
      2,683
      Country Flag: United States
      I guess it depends on which brake systems you are really trying to compare.

      If you are using a kit that is comprised of OEM abutments and calipers... this pretty much allows you to get replacement parts from just about everywhere. Whereas... with the Wilwood stuff... you can not. Maybe this is or is not a big issue... but if you do a lot of driving or if this is a daily driver... the down time waiting for parts to show up in the mail can make a difference.

      Performance wise... they are pretty on an even plain. The high dollar kits from either of them are comparable. The mid range stuff leans a little towards the Wilwoods (repeatability and overall performance)... as this is where caliper construction of Wilwood makes the biggest difference. And then on the lower end... the OEM kills Wilwood.

      For the money... the Baer GT stuff is damn hard to beat. Then to get into a six piston set-up... the Wilwoods start to shine. Iguess this really comes down to what you are looking at and how much you really want to spend.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Posts
      296
      From Baer I am looking at Pro-Plus 14" front and Track system with 13" rotors for the rear.




      From Wilwood I am looking at Superlite 6 Big Brake Front and am still looking at rear options




      I really like the look of the rear Wilwood calipers compared to the Baer...especially with an open spoke wheel design that would highlight the caliper/rotor assembly.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2002
      Location
      Lost Wages, Nevada
      Posts
      2,683
      Country Flag: United States
      Between the two listed... I would lean toward the Wilwood.

      The Baer 6 series calipers weight a flippin ton... and they have had a few problems with the caliper concerning pad wear... along with some other issues. But even with the issues being corrected... the weight of the caliper alone would make me look elsewhere.

      The Wilwoods on the other hand... are damn light. A 13 inch SL4 would do the deed to button up the rear.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2003
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      8,745
      Yhe baer stuff is just more money, and the Wilwood stuff is good stuff.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Posts
      7
      Can anybody provide me with a specific kit from either company that would upgrade my front discs with max benefit while retaining the stock rear drums? I'll probably look for a 1" drop via new spindles at the same time. This is for a 70 Z28 with American 17" TTII wheels. I've tried searching the websites but can't find a definitive answer. Thanks.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      May 2001
      Location
      Mesa, Az.
      Posts
      1,434
      Country Flag: United States
      Would probably be best just to call them both.
      Phillip
      64 Studebaker Daytona Twin Turbo- http://bit.ly/1SgxQ0g
      65 Cutlass F-85 - http://bit.ly/1W4lJm4

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      Nor Cal
      Posts
      2,196
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by PhillipM View Post
      Would probably be best just to call them both.
      Why? So they can each tell you how great they are?
      1968 Camaro widebody project
      2004 Mustang LS2
      1964 Continental
      2014 Keezer

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2003
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      8,745
      Quote Originally Posted by Flash68 View Post
      Why? So they can each tell you how great they are?
      As wise man once said!

      "If you want to know what product is best, just call the manufacturer of the product"

      Or talk to people that use the different products.

      Personally, I really dislike the factory style e brake on the Baer set up. the Wilwood internal drum is superior and much easier to package.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Henderson,NV
      Posts
      2,870
      Country Flag: United States
      That bear caliper reminds me of a 1987 Grand Prix with the same style calper. Always hated those things!! My e brake works awesome with my wilwoods. Simple and modern. Hard to beat Franks deals on brakes.
      Todd

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Nov 2001
      Location
      Sacramento Ca
      Posts
      6,827
      Country Flag: United States
      Personally, I really dislike the factory style e brake on the Baer set up. the Wilwood internal drum is superior and much easier to package.
      THIS. Everyone I know that's used them, has raved about how easy the ebrake is to set up and use. Plus, to me wilwood is a "real" racing brake company. They have the best reputation going back decades.
      Tony Langlois
      1966 Corvair Monza

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Chico, California Nor-Cal
      Posts
      365
      Hey guys be careful. Keep in mind that rotor diameter is something to think about, bit the caliper bore sizing is VERY crucial. The Wilwood 6 piston and the Corvette c5 caliper have nearly identical bore sizes and create the same force, the c5 caliper uses a bigger pad. Watch out for "bling" style parts. Wilwoods work great on my 2150 pound GT-2 car, but they try and sell me the same stuff for my 3450 pound Camaro, yeah right! I put C5 stuff on my camaro, and swaped to a 7/8" master and now run manual brakes. last auto cross I nearly could stop the car as I went a bit off course. I have a few brake force calculators i use, Don't think you are upgrading your brakes, when you may be down grading the actual braking force. put the numbers in this calculator and see the results from a stock set up to a Wilwood or baer, I am thinking adding a power booster back on to the car, which gives poor feel, but will at least stop the car.
      http://www.jakelatham.com/radical/in...culators.shtml

      or
      http://www.tceperformanceproducts.co...alculator.html

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,997
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ks71z28 View Post
      Hey guys be careful. Keep in mind that rotor diameter is something to think about, bit the caliper bore sizing is VERY crucial. The Wilwood 6 piston and the Corvette c5 caliper have nearly identical bore sizes and create the same force, the c5 caliper uses a bigger pad. Watch out for "bling" style parts. Wilwoods work great on my 2150 pound GT-2 car, but they try and sell me the same stuff for my 3450 pound Camaro, yeah right! I put C5 stuff on my camaro, and swaped to a 7/8" master and now run manual brakes. last auto cross I nearly could stop the car as I went a bit off course. I have a few brake force calculators i use, Don't think you are upgrading your brakes, when you may be down grading the actual braking force. put the numbers in this calculator and see the results from a stock set up to a Wilwood or baer, I am thinking adding a power booster back on to the car, which gives poor feel, but will at least stop the car.
      http://www.jakelatham.com/radical/in...culators.shtml

      or
      http://www.tceperformanceproducts.co...alculator.html
      Great advice. As with clutches, brakes don't have any "black magic." It is all about rotor diameter, caliper piston area, pad area, pad compound, and MC size. The number of pistons in a caliper doesn't mean anything. It is the piston area that is important. Pad area is important to consider in regards to pad life. Race cars that are setup for endurance racing use calipers with bigger pads. Short races can get away with smaller pads to save weight.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
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      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      NYC
      Posts
      201
      Country Flag: United States
      wilwood all the way

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Chico, California Nor-Cal
      Posts
      365
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Great advice. As with clutches, brakes don't have any "black magic." It is all about rotor diameter, caliper piston area, pad area, pad compound, and MC size. The number of pistons in a caliper doesn't mean anything. It is the piston area that is important. Pad area is important to consider in regards to pad life. Race cars that are setup for endurance racing use calipers with bigger pads. Short races can get away with smaller pads to save weight.

      Andrew
      Thanks

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Posts
      3
      Wilwood is the real deal and much lighter.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Campbell Ca
      Posts
      61
      Coming from a racing background and from a standpoint of having owned and ran both hard, the baer's are not only better, but have better sealing for road use, including rain. The wilwoods are good, just not as good.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Location
      Van Nuys, CA
      Posts
      198
      wilwood for me they work great.

      Mike

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Chico, California Nor-Cal
      Posts
      365
      Nice to see this is alive. I will try Wilwoods sometime because I feel the fixed caliper has some advantages over a floating design in brake feel, but at a cost of almost double, is it worth it? Keep in mind I am running manual brakes. A stock set up with a power booster will shread tires on braking just fine, at some point tire grip and chassis set up become very important on how effective your braking is. My 2c

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Auburn, WA
      Posts
      1,360
      I run Wilwood's 14" SL6 calipers up front with 13" SL4 calipers in the rear without a booster...absolutely NO complaints here.
      Matt Jones
      Mechanical Engineer
      Art Morrison Enterprises




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