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    Results 1 to 14 of 14
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      Pickering,Canada
      Posts
      287
      Country Flag: Canada

      my steering joints are binding??

      I just finished installing my new unisteer power rack as well as the 2 joint shaft kit to my factory column and my lower steering shaft is binding??? I got the part numbers from unisteer directly and told them my exact setup!!!
      Has anyone run into this problem??

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      play with the phasing make sure your 3/4dd isnt protruding tofar into the joint.
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Posts
      9

      steering

      can you show some pic's so we can see? is the bind constant or does it get tight and loose? are you sure its the joints and not the rack or tie rods.. maybe its at the spindle??
      Most times it is related to the shaft being installed to far into the joint. If this might be true and you cant see.. stick a piece of paper threw the joint on each side and rotate the joint. if its hitting there will be a gouge in the paper..

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      Pickering,Canada
      Posts
      287
      Country Flag: Canada
      I will try to post some pics this evening but yes the steering gets tight then loose and I have a feeling its the joint at the rack cause when I took it all out for a closer inspection I noticed on the lower joint it had some markings from where the shoulders had touched.I am also sure its the joint cause when I lift the wheels off the ground I can turn the rack smooth lock to lock.I can also do this with the wheels on the ground with cardboard underneath the tires lock to lock with no binding.I even tried phasing the joints a few different ways with no luck.Also the DD shaft is not too long cause it clears inside the joint.I am just about ready to lose it!!!!
      Please someone help!!!
      thanks
      Steve

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      There is also adjustment in the column in and out you could try. about an inch worth. loosen the column at the floor and the 2 nuts under dash and push or pull.
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      Pickering,Canada
      Posts
      287
      Country Flag: Canada
      when I read that there was some adjustment in the column I ran out to the garage and tried it but no luck.Its almost as if the rack needs to lean back towards the back of the car to keep that lower joint from binding.Im gonna try a few things this weekend and keep you guys posted.Thanks in advance for the help.
      Steve

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      Pickering,Canada
      Posts
      287
      Country Flag: Canada
      well I worked on the steering for a couple of hours today trying to figure out what to do and came up with a conclusion...the angle that the stub is on coming out of the rack is leaning too far forward so I am going to try to install some shims that are cut on the angle that I need and remove spacers the rack comes with.The spacers I am talking about are the ones that install between the bracket and the subframe with the lower control arm bolt.I hope to have them made in the next couple days and installed to see if my binding stops.
      I will keep you guys posted!

      thanks
      Steve

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      Pickering,Canada
      Posts
      287
      Country Flag: Canada
      Well I managed to fix my binding problem by tilting the rack assembly back towards the back of the car by changing out their original 1/2" spacer and putting one in with a 22 degree cut into one side of it.I used a wooden mock up piece then to a hockey puck and now I'll have it made up in steel.It took a while but it worked out in the end.I just didnt want to grind away at the lower joint and possibly weaken it.Also the angle that the lower joint would have to work at was just too much....it was almost at 90 degrees by the looks of it before.The pinion of the rack was leaning towards the front of the car and now it leans back where it should be.I will post some pics if I get a chance for a better understanding.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      Pickering,Canada
      Posts
      287
      Country Flag: Canada



    10. #10
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      Pickering,Canada
      Posts
      287
      Country Flag: Canada



    11. #11
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      Pickering,Canada
      Posts
      287
      Country Flag: Canada
      anybody else run into this problem??

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      Zelienople pa
      Posts
      2
      It’s now 2020 did your wedge spacer work? I’m having the same issue with 69 350. Plenty of clearance around the header pipe. I have tried 90 degree misphasing and every misphasing between zero and 90. I’ve used a feeler gauge to make sure the yoke humps, poor technical term has clearance. I’m not having bind but more of a tightness every 90 degrees. I have as close as I can measure a 35 degree angle coming off the stock steering column. Your wedge idea makes sense to lessen the harsh angle at the lower joint. Did your wedges totally solve the bind? And how did you make the 22 degree wedge spacers? I have thrown 20 hours into this issue and went trough 3 d shafts

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      Zelienople pa
      Posts
      2
      After 15 years I didn’t expect a reply, but your wedge thought cured my bind issue. I’m posting so it may help someone else. I found galvanized square beveled washers used for aligning structural steel . They provide about 10 degree bevel. Placed between the crossmember and the unisteer provided donut washer gave enough tilt to the rack to lessen the acute the shaft comes into the rack u joint. I placed another beveled washer so the nut sits flat against the rack. The nemesis bind is gone! I’m not to sure why I needed to do this? It seemed it should have been a generic install


    14. #14
      Join Date
      Jul 2022
      Posts
      17
      @Fansco any pics of your setup? Would like to see.





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