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    Results 301 to 320 of 323
    1. #301
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      left coast
      Posts
      145
      Country Flag: United States
      is that $30K cap with or without paint? Just asking. . . I completely fall into this catagory. 5 years later my 66 mustang is finally in paint, and yes, its a leaf car with panhard bar. I'm spending more on the paint then I've spent on the trac-loc, tranny, suspension, brakes put together. I admire this forum for the hands-on and ideas that have helped me through this effort. Do I want a four-link TCP setup with a currie 9", heck ya! Can I afford one, heck no!

      And KUDO's to Matt on that perty 69 camaro. It takes allot for a young kid to put that much heart and sweat into building a georgous car like that. APPLAUSE!
      Last edited by groho; 04-02-2014 at 09:41 AM. Reason: kudos!

    2. #302
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Birmingham, AL
      Posts
      3,356
      Country Flag: United States
      I may get there without paint, but no chance with paint/body added to the budget.
      Stephen

    3. #303
      Join Date
      Oct 2013
      Posts
      533
      I'm at 11k into mine 3k for the car 2k for body and engine work 4k In Random parts new radiator, suspension etc and 1k for the ls3 and 1k for the 4l80e I have for it. All the body work on the car is going to be done for free by my gfs step dad who owned a shop so painted and Ls engine in, I'm looking at under 15k for the whole build!
      Attached Images Attached Images  

    4. #304
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      Traverse City, MI
      Posts
      574
      Country Flag: United States
      I can play too? I hope to be right around that mark when Im finished with all mechanical and interior stuff. As far as body goes..............well yeah. Probably have to just not ever worry about that.
      Project thread - https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ouring-Project
      IG - @tc_chevelle


    5. #305
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      Gilbert, AZ
      Posts
      934
      Country Flag: United States
      The Mustang in my thread (which is weeks behind), I'm in it about $18k total in parts, not including my labor. It will be done for the Goodguy's Del Mar show this weekend, God willing!
      Josh Campbell- Pushing the limits of my HOA since 2011
      71 Firebird- 455, Ridetech front suspension. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...04#post1124504
      67 Camaro RS/SS clone, Speedtech front suspension, coilovers, soon to get LT1/T56.
      82 Z28- cheapie beater, soon to get a 406.
      66 Mustang coupe- 393, T-5, sold. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...-Coupe-GT393-C

    6. #306
      Join Date
      Jul 2014
      Posts
      6
      Country Flag: United States

      Not a pure pro touring, but inspired...

      I was reading another thread, and a guy was bitching about how much money it cost to build, my brand choice, and how shoddy they were from the factory. I don't know how many people hold that sort of opinion, about one choice, or another, but it made no sense to me. Isn't the idea behind this forum, that we all have chose to - "build the better wheel." My car could have come to me, held together with pop rivets, and duct tape. It really makes no difference, because I intend to run through everything I ever hated about these mass produced pieces of chit, and address those issues. In my case I installed a tubular 4 link rear, and an aftermarket K member. I had to remove the interior to repair some floorboards, I might as well install a 4 point roll bar. I wanted to use a overdrive trans, which required massaging the transmission tunnel. Why not reinforce the firewall, and give the car a backbone ? Tubing isn't all that expensive. And while I'm at it the 1st trick in the age old book is unit body connectors. I should just tie everything from the center of the car to the rockers all together, yes ?.
      Since a lot of the part I'm using, are the same parts the Ford guys are using, why is it assumed my brand cost more. I always build things with the idea of upgrading later.The worst part was waiting for a gen III hemi, and than just when I bought an engine, a week later I ended up picking up another for less than a grand. I don't think there is a brand that is junk once we put our imaginations to work. I look at the cars on the website, and I think, " I could do a bit of this, and a bit of that, and it inspires me to want to do things too. I don't have half the experience some of these guys do. All you have to do is read, and you can tell who opens their wallet, and acquires other peoples build, and who believes necessity is the mother of invention. I hoping to finish my project, and drive out to see some of you guys at shows, or competing in autox events. Thanks.
      Attached Images Attached Images  

    7. #307
      Join Date
      Oct 2013
      Posts
      140
      Country Flag: United States
      Well...... I would have been in this club if I would have left the car a lone, there really wasn't much wrong with it. Paid $25k for the car, and probably another $25k customizing it.

    8. #308
      Join Date
      Jan 2012
      Location
      Newton, KS
      Posts
      303
      Country Flag: United States
      Any updates to be added?

    9. #309
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      1,454
      Country Flag: United States
      So a couple of comments here on this UNDER 30K project thread. Looks like the last comment that was shown was from 2014 over 5 years ago. As anyone will tell you, that amount of time makes it inherently more difficult to acheive. Is it still doable? I think so but in order to do it, it comes down to a lot of planning and ALOT of luck. The biggest cash suck is definately body and paint. If you are lucky enough to find a rust free body with a decent paint job, you still will be paying a good amount of money when you are talking about camaros, chevelles, mustangs, novas. Other cars that are not as much mainstream or sought after will give you a fighting chance and if you still want that F body, then your best bet would be a FIREBIRD... those things get ZERO respect in my opinion and they are not that much different than the camaros. If you are handy and patient you can pick deals for great parts from Higher end builds that are looking to dump parts as a sacrifice for the ultimate ride.

      Fun idea would love to see more up to date attempts. If you are lucky enough to score a car on the cheap with most of the work done, then it is acheivable.

      Just my .02 cents.

      TOOFUN

    10. #310
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      475
      I am under the $30k mark on my build, even after blowing up 1 engine. I have done 100% of the work myself though and I get pretty hefty discounts on just about everything. If I had my car professionally painted, I would be over the mark for sure.
      1970 VW Bug - Just your average mid engine Bug
      Track toy - 06 Evo - E85 and lots of boost
      Newest track toy - 2021 Supra

    11. #311
      Join Date
      May 2018
      Posts
      98
      I'm under $30k. Actually, I think I'm under $25k. Bought it with lots of work done and more to go. I do suspect that I won't be allowed to remain in the "Under 30 Club" once I redo the suspension and brakes though.Name:  IMG_20190107_213426915_HDR-EFFECTS.jpg
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      Jim..Car Junkie
      1969 Vette--Big pistons, No turbo....yet
      RX7 Turbo II--No pistons. Big turbo--now in my Daughter's garage
      68 RS Z/28, '12 Boss 302, 86 911, several RX7's, 3rd gen f-bodies, fox body, and many more..(gone)

    12. #312
      Join Date
      Apr 2016
      Posts
      68
      How about 3... I just sold this one about a month ago due to health reasons. This is it leaving on a trailer. I actually came in at just under $25,000, including purchase price. I was able to do this as i did 95 per cent of the work. Car is a 1967 Chevelle malibu, factory air reworked for R134, connected to a late model compressor, as the engine is a reworked 6.0 LS, with a cam and head swap, Hooker/Blackhart headers and exhaust, all stainless, a Legend LGT 700 5 speed trans, a fabricated 9 inch ford rear end, 2002 Camaro disc brakes all around, all UMI tubular front suspension, viking coil overs at all 4 corners, a mini tub and frame boxing job using materials I had on hand, including widening the tubs myself, $14 dollars total in doing that). Did the metal work myself, replacing the floor pans and trunk pan, the tail panel, repairing the sail panel, and lower rear part of the quarters. Had the wheels made to spec, and also has a full on stereo system with subs/amps, etc.




      And this one I have around 18,000 in, which is way too much for a Chevy LUV truck, lol... Still have it, for sale locally, I am gonna lose my shirt on this one. Body off, frame blasted and painted, all new stock rebuilt suspension, Has a 9 inch ford rear, a 4L80e trans, an owner built 396 cubic inch pump gas small block. I have since this picture was taken added the bumpers and glass, and the interior, which has 65 mustang bucket seats, and a 68 camaro console with aftermarket console gauges. It is pretty much finished, just need to correct some gauge wiring.



      And lastly, Frankenstein, I have had this truck for over 20 years, I got it when my grandfather passed. It started out as a 1989 Nissan D21 Hardbody. It has a 1996 Vortec 350 CHevy, converted the tbi (by me), with a 700r trans and an 8.8 rear. Stock interior with Pathfinder bucket seats and a 2002 Chevy Blazer Console. I have lowered the rear since the pic, still needs paint, I ran out of health before I got to it. I have ten grand in it, and sadly, am looking for a new owner for it as well...



    13. #313
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      San Jose, CA
      Posts
      523
      My starter price was under $20K. But didn’t take long to push it above $30K. I’m long past that number.
      1971 Camaro - 406 / T56
      2016 Camaro SS convertible
      2018 Colorado 4x4

    14. #314
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      San Jose, CA
      Posts
      523
      I mean - I don’t know about you guys, but I am using those summit ALWAYS codes like they are going out of style. And that’s not for the big items just the odds and ends. Seems like endless list of odds and ends that keeps coming at me as I go too ! And I started with a pretty complete running car too.
      1971 Camaro - 406 / T56
      2016 Camaro SS convertible
      2018 Colorado 4x4

    15. #315
      Join Date
      May 2014
      Location
      Stanislaus County Ca.
      Posts
      176
      Country Flag: United States
      When the thread started in 2008, that would be a pretty decent ride. Now a pretty basic driver,still nice but not like a $30k 2008 build.

      What would that be now, a $50k car starting from scratch ?

      mini tubs,wheels and a decent suspension setup could easily be half that $30k.

    16. #316
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      San Jose, CA
      Posts
      523
      I'm thinking $40K is the new $30K !

      1971 Camaro - 406 / T56
      2016 Camaro SS convertible
      2018 Colorado 4x4


    17. #317
      Join Date
      Dec 2011
      Location
      Oregon coast
      Posts
      169
      Country Flag: United States
      My car will be somewhere in the $16-18k range by the time I'm done. I think the important things for me to keep the cost down was not being brand loyal. You definitely don't have to have all big name parts to get in the game. My suspension has quality components but not necessarily from the same manufacturer and they work great together. Also scouring the sales forum craigslist and eBay will net you cheaper, lightly used parts that will keep the cost down. Finally for me the goal was to get it on the road and get the look I want and enjoy the car with the understanding that I will change and upgrade parts in the future. Even if you do make some concessions initially to keep cost down you can address it down the road once you're driving it.

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    18. #318
      Join Date
      May 2014
      Location
      Stanislaus County Ca.
      Posts
      176
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by boss_hoss View Post
      My car will be somewhere in the $16-18k range by the time I'm done. I think the important things for me to keep the cost down was not being brand loyal. You definitely don't have to have all big name parts to get in the game. My suspension has quality components but not necessarily from the same manufacturer and they work great together. Also scouring the sales forum craigslist and eBay will net you cheaper, lightly used parts that will keep the cost down. Finally for me the goal was to get it on the road and get the look I want and enjoy the car with the understanding that I will change and upgrade parts in the future. Even if you do make some concessions initially to keep cost down you can address it down the road once you're driving it.

      [ATTACH=CONFIG]162957
      That's a good looking Pontiac.
      You must have gotten it for free to make it look so good under $16k

    19. #319
      Join Date
      Dec 2011
      Location
      Oregon coast
      Posts
      169
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ilikeike View Post
      That's a good looking Pontiac.
      You must have gotten it for free to make it look so good under $16k
      It wasnt free but cheap. I can Break down some of the areas where I think I saved the most

      -Car $2200, ran but the drivetrain was shot. Very solid body though. Only needed some patches in the rear quarters. I also think it helps to start with something that isn't a Chevy or ford. Buick, Pontiac, Olds Mercury etc are always less expensive and have the same underpinnings. A comparable Malibu or chevelle would probably be $5-10k easy.
      -Engine $600. Was looking for a cheap LS but found a guy who only built pontiac engines. I traded my blown up pontiac engine and $600 for a complete running Pontiac with accessories. still trying to figure out why I got such a good deal on that one. It runs like a top, no issues.
      -Paint and body$6000. Did all the prep and tear down myself. Found a young local painter, who's building his business. It's not a show winning job but he used good product and it's going to be a driver for me so I feel better getting rock chips on a 6k paint job vs one for twice that much.
      -Wheels and tires $1100. Foose wheels and mickey Thompson street comps. They were mockup wheels from a hot rod shop down in California. After the car was gone they didnt need them any more and needed the space. I'll defiantly upgrade down the line as they are pretty heavy and not the final style I'm looking for but I'll get my money back on those.
      Lastly I saved a lot of nickels and dimes like I said by being an opportune shopper. My suspension has QA-1, UMI, Spohn, summit racing and bilstein components. Most were take off parts from the fourms or eBay which netted me some good savings.

      I think the real catch is, until you sell the car the project is never complete. There's always something we're doing to our cars so who know ho much my car will cost in the end. But to get it on the road in a presentable driving condition that most people would say is finished that's what it took.

    20. #320
      Join Date
      Jun 2010
      Location
      Deployed
      Posts
      3,280
      Country Flag: United States
      It’s easy to stay under $30k if you keep basically a stock suspension with aftermarket upgrades. Doesn’t help when your base car starts out expensive ie a 1st Gen Camaro. It’s when you start going big the dollars add up. I have over $10k in my engine alone. People going LT4 are going to have $15k into it.
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

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