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    Results 41 to 60 of 64
    1. #41
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Harriman, Tennessee
      Posts
      1,290
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68protouring454
      sucks
      also standox clear is 2-1-10-15% thinner, not 4 -1 i used dupont and would buff thru now and again, piss me right off, anyway using a high quality clear, you only need 2-3 coats and you will not burn thru unless you have no idea whats going on. i haven't in 2 years since switching over
      jake
      Umm... The Dupont Premier I used doesn't mix 4 to 1. It was 2parts Premier Clear to 1 part Premier hardener, then a max of 10% reducer. Seems to have a very nice build. They recommend 2 coats, though I always spray 4 so I can sand aggressively. Great depth and shine with high durability. What I don't understand is why he didn't just blend the sand through. You can't have an easier blend than black!

      Why do termites eat houses?

      Because they have
      Munchausen Syndrome.


    2. #42
      Join Date
      Nov 2003
      Location
      Maine
      Posts
      1,076

      bill

      glad to here they have stepped up to the plate, probably after they bought spies/standox a few years ago they figured out how real clear was to be made and mixed.
      dupont owns everything!!! lol, they at least have not screwed with spies/standox, goodthing cause it does not need any screwing around with
      jake

    3. #43
      Join Date
      Aug 2003
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      8,745
      Quote Originally Posted by ProTouring442
      Umm... What I don't understand is why he didn't just blend the sand through. You can't have an easier blend than black!
      Really? Where are you so I can get a little training on blending black urethane in the middle of sanded and buffed panels on show cars? Not an easier blend then black?

    4. #44
      Join Date
      Nov 2003
      Location
      Maine
      Posts
      1,076

      frank

      he did this is base/clear, so blending the black bas should not be a problem, then re-clear entire panel,
      black urethane are you thinking single stage??
      anyways i would not blend the clear, it will only break down in time, and if you do decide to repair, you would blend black then re-clear whole panel, which is not only that 1/4 but the roof, other 1/4 and you might as well thow in the tail panel too!!! lol
      this car is gonna is gonna be perfect, i would not screw with blending anyhow or where, also it was not just a simple burn thru that he is dealing with, re-strip, start over, only way to do it
      jake

    5. #45
      Join Date
      Aug 2001
      Location
      Wilton, CA. (Sacramento)
      Posts
      2,995
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ProTouring442
      Umm... The Dupont Premier I used doesn't mix 4 to 1. It was 2parts Premier Clear to 1 part Premier hardener, then a max of 10% reducer. Seems to have a very nice build. They recommend 2 coats, though I always spray 4 so I can sand aggressively. Great depth and shine with high durability. What I don't understand is why he didn't just blend the sand through. You can't have an easier blend than black!
      That's what I thought, but he disagreed. He said no matter how good you are if you look close enough you'll see the blend line, either now or somewhere down the road.The only correct way is as Jake said above, clear the whole panel which in this case is the entire shell. Why not just re-spray it and not even deal with a blend? That was his thought.

      Jody

    6. #46
      Join Date
      Aug 2003
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      8,745
      Blending in my book would mean blending the clear. I can blend clear on some colors, in some areas, but not on black in the middle of sanded and buffed panels. I can do even black, if it is not sanded and buffed, but a blend line will develope if buffed.
      I am not rereading the entire thread, but I was fairly certain this is a quarter panel which means entire roof and both quarters have to be cleared. Obviously a little base won't add any film thickness, but the clear will, and that is what Jody is trying to avoid.
      Jody, the blend line your guy is talking about is Bulls..t, there is absoulty no reason in the world the color could not be misted over the break thorugh, and then clear the panels to the first edge, long as the film thickness does not bother you, which it does.
      If it were me Jody, I would block sand it hard with 400 and get a few layers off, maybe remove the second job, light base it, and reclear it.
      Last edited by ProdigyCustoms; 02-13-2005 at 10:09 AM.

    7. #47
      Join Date
      Jan 2003
      Location
      Arizona
      Posts
      5,388
      Country Flag: United States
      I've spoken to Jody quite a few times in the last months. It's clear to me that he already had a very nice Camaro (his yellow ZL-1 clone). But he wants to build a TRUE no-excuses, no regrets hot rod.
      ________________
      Steve Chryssos

    8. #48
      Join Date
      Aug 2001
      Location
      Wilton, CA. (Sacramento)
      Posts
      2,995
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ProdigyCustoms
      Blending in my book would mean blending the clear. I can blend clear on some colors, in some areas, but not on black in the middle of sanded and buffed panels. I can do even black, if it is not sanded and buffed, but a blend line will develope if buffed.
      I am not rereading the entire thread, but I was fairly certain this is a quarter panel which means entire roof and both quarters have to be cleared. Obviously a little base won't add any film thickness, but the clear will, and that is what Jody is trying to avoid.
      Jody, the blend line your guy is talking about is Bulls..t, there is absoulty no reason in the world the color could not be misted over the break thorugh, and then clear the panels to the first edge, long as the film thickness does not bother you, which it does.
      If it were me Jody, I would block sand it hard with 400 and get a few layers off, maybe remove the second job, light base it, and reclear it.

      That was the issue. He can blend the black but then he'd have to clear the entire shell to keep the film thickness the same which is what I wanted. He decided to re-shoot a coat or two of base, and then re-clear.

      Jody

    9. #49
      Join Date
      Nov 2003
      Location
      Maine
      Posts
      1,076

      frank

      i hear ya, but even in collision world i always get a re-clear of entire panels, blend the base/ 99% of todays colors have pearl, etc in them, so it is not so easy to blend, if you do not know how.
      as said, film thickness would be minimal, it would be the break down of the clear that would kill me in the 2-3 year range, maybe wuicker in florida.
      standox makes a killer fade out thinner, that works awesome, and does not show a blend line at all, at least the way i spray it does not,,
      but this is all bs cause this is a kickass car, and i would not think about blending anything on this car, as far as i would go is to just paint a fender or door over, if i scratch/ chip happen during assembly, goodluck jody,
      now strip that bad boy
      jake

    10. #50
      Join Date
      Jan 2002
      Location
      Italy
      Posts
      746
      Hey Jody,

      that looks great, I just hope my car will be as shiny black as that when done (on the first paintjob).

      Looks like a nice little engine you have there as well hehe.
      Post more pics please.

      ciao André

    11. #51
      Join Date
      Aug 2001
      Location
      Wilton, CA. (Sacramento)
      Posts
      2,995
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks guys. I am going to strip the car down to the primer we had before he started his paint job. Re-primer and block until I'm happy and then paint the car myself. More work than using his first or second job as a base but the only way to be 100% safe. I do NOT want to do this again!

      Jody

    12. #52
      Join Date
      Nov 2003
      Location
      Maine
      Posts
      1,076

      jody

      goodluck, lets kill this thread i wanna see dust floating in the air , go ut and get sanding, if i make the power tour, i better see that car
      jake

    13. #53
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      NY
      Posts
      1,070
      I know thread should be dead but honestly forget about who blends what as that will always be a hot debate in the collision industry. You really need to know exactly what caused that problem before you sand anything. First off either bake or let it sit in the sun for a couple of days so everything settles. I would look into using the best sealer whatever system you are using has to offer and start fresh from there. Good luck and the offer stands but you have to get me some sort of accurate color to reproduce. Like I said go to shop and look at his toner or tint color and go from there. Everybody see a color a different way. Good luck !!!

    14. #54
      Join Date
      Aug 2001
      Location
      Wilton, CA. (Sacramento)
      Posts
      2,995
      Country Flag: United States
      The car was baked at 140 degrees every time it was painted. The small bumps are a bit of a mystery, but there was also an issue of a sag the length of the 1/4 panel that he went to the basecoat in removing and then delivered the car to me anyway, probably thinking I would not notice (it is tough to see on black). However I did, and now will paint the car myself like I should have done in the first place! Safest thing for me is to remove basically all of the paint on the car down to the primer and start from there.

      Jody

    15. #55
      Join Date
      Feb 2004
      Location
      McKinney, Texas
      Posts
      213
      Quote Originally Posted by camcojb
      Find me an orange like my rendering that doesn't have a ton of pearl in it and I'd do it. I can't find one.

      Jody
      Would the color of the "Copperhead" truck on the show Trucks work for you? Just a thought.
      Kirt
      1969 Camaro 427ci LS1 Twin Turbo
      Wade's Rod & Custom

    16. #56
      Join Date
      Aug 2001
      Location
      Wilton, CA. (Sacramento)
      Posts
      2,995
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ballistic69
      Would the color of the "Copperhead" truck on the show Trucks work for you? Just a thought.

      I like that color too, but it's quite different from the orange rendering. I picked up my paint a couple of days ago and will post the new color choice when it's painted.

      Jody

    17. #57
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Mountville, SC
      Posts
      65
      Country Flag: United States
      Jody, I have not fininshed looking at you web page, but Damn! You have some top line cars there. Am sorry to hear the car had to be stripped again. I hope you will post more of it when you can. I also have a 96 reverse-flow LT1 shortblock out of a car the dealer thought had a vibration. 400 miles on motor but with no fuel injection or pulley equipment on it. Thanks for you updates, it's going to be HOT!
      mike

    18. #58
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Wa State.
      Posts
      235
      Very nice project, stay with the black...

      me likey

      -Ed Nelson

      1967 Firebird.......
      1970 Corvette. -Sold

    19. #59
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      Yuba City, CA (bout 1/2 hour north of Sacramento)
      Posts
      818
      have you guys seen the post dates on this? I believe the project has been sold long ago.....
      J.T.

    20. #60
      Join Date
      Jun 2002
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,387
      Country Flag: United States
      You are correct J.T. He now owns Malitude....
      Tony

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