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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Manchester, Connecticut
    Posts
    225
    More pictures Please. Awesome looking paint

    :3gears: Rob Jones Project "Wild Goat"


  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Wilton, CA. (Sacramento)
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    3,001
    Country Flag: United States
    Quote Originally Posted by 68protouring454
    3 times wtf?? what were they rushing?? missing dings here and there?? sounds like solvent bubbles, from rushing not allowing stuff to flash dry before topcoating, are the problems everywhere??
    man nothing like buying nos sheetmetal, then before car is driven having 3 coats of base/clear and some primer on, the 2nd or 3rd time repainting, should of given ya a clue to yank it quick, just asking for problems, i can see maybe a burn thru while buffing, but with black he could of panel painted it to fix problem.
    wonder why he did not see problems on final buffing??
    goodluck
    jake

    First paint job, looked great. Started color-sanding and buffing and went through on a couple of small areas on the 1/4 panel (painter did, not me!). Wasn't into the base coat, but left a milky image. Figured out he painted 3 coats of clear, sanded the whole car, and then added two more. No problem with this other than you now CANNOT go through the top two or you'll leave an image where you get into the sanded clear coat. He thought about blending the areas, but also figured we weren't done sanding and in all likeliness we'll go through several more. So he re-shot the car.

    Second job looked awesome too. After completely sanding the car down we start to buff. Do about half a 1/4 panel and then notice some tiny white dots. They're UNDER the clear, on top of the base coat. Nobody else was spraying in the shop at the time he did, so he figured it must have been a dirty gun. They're all over the place so we can't leave them. On to job three and where we're at now.

    The painter has been 100% stand up but I can't let him do it again. I will strip the car back to primer, re-block and primer, seal, and shoot it myself.

    Jody

  3. #23

    american clear

    sucks
    thats why once you use a high quality clear you will not go back
    2 coats spies/standox is like 4 dupont etc, serious go to paint shop and ask to pick up a gallon of spies/standox, and in other hand hold a gallon of dupont or other american paint, you will **** your pants, same goes for primers
    also standox clear is 2-1-10-15% thinner, not 4 -1 i used dupont and would buff thru now and again, piss me right off, anyway using a high quality clear, you only need 2-3 coats and you will not burn thru unless you have no idea whats going on. i haven't in 2 years since switching over
    jake

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Wilton, CA. (Sacramento)
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    Country Flag: United States
    Quote Originally Posted by 68protouring454
    sucks
    thats why once you use a high quality clear you will not go back
    2 coats spies/standox is like 4 dupont etc, serious go to paint shop and ask to pick up a gallon of spies/standox, and in other hand hold a gallon of dupont or other american paint, you will **** your pants, same goes for primers
    also standox clear is 2-1-10-15% thinner, not 4 -1 i used dupont and would buff thru now and again, piss me right off, anyway using a high quality clear, you only need 2-3 coats and you will not burn thru unless you have no idea whats going on. i haven't in 2 years since switching over
    jake
    I'm not going to blame the clear he used; on the second go-round I blocked the entire car aggressively with 400 and didn't break through a single area. I was very surprised to say the least. He said it was very expensive versus their cheaper clears.

    Jody

  5. #25

    clear

    i am not blaming anything, i am just stating, 400 probaly was too aggrsssive thats why is dulled out when buffed thru, now had it been sanded with 1000 or so it may have buffed out, goodluck
    nothing like redoing work already done
    jake

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Wilton, CA. (Sacramento)
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68protouring454
    i am not blaming anything, i am just stating, 400 probaly was too aggrsssive thats why is dulled out when buffed thru, now had it been sanded with 1000 or so it may have buffed out, goodluck
    nothing like redoing work already done
    jake

    No, the 400 was in prep for new color coat and clear. On the first job where he went through the clear and left an image he'd blocked that clear with 1000 grit.

    Jody

  7. #27

    oh

    anyways it was a cluster, now you can do it the way you want
    have a good one
    jake

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Wilton, CA. (Sacramento)
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68protouring454
    anyways it was a cluster, now you can do it the way you want
    have a good one
    jake

    biggest problem now is that since I'm re-painting it I can change the color! That is a bad position for me to be in! Took me months to pick black!

    Take care Jake, appreciate the info.

    Jody

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Arizona
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    5,395
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    Obviously a different situation than portrayed in my rant. So uhh, how does one strip a brand new paintjob?
    ________________
    Steve Chryssos


    Ridetech.com
    Email: stevenATridetech.com

    My PT Garage:
    https://www.pro-touring.com/dto_show...preview&g=1288

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    College Station, TX
    Posts
    421
    Sorry to hear that Jody. But what happened to painting it orange? I thought that would be killer. Not trying to make a tougher decision for ya, just sayin'.
    -Brian
    <--- Artist formerly known as BlownSS502

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Wilton, CA. (Sacramento)
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    Quote Originally Posted by B Cichocki
    Sorry to hear that Jody. But what happened to painting it orange? I thought that would be killer. Not trying to make a tougher decision for ya, just sayin'.
    -Brian
    Find me an orange like my rendering that doesn't have a ton of pearl in it and I'd do it. I can't find one.

    Jody

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    michigan
    Posts
    1,232
    very very nice...that pain looked like glass! 3 times for paint sucks! good luck on your 3rd trial!
    colt zantop

    1968 camaro LS1.......aka......."NJECTED"

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Tacompton
    Posts
    710

    try

    try Lamborghini Orange

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Wilton, CA. (Sacramento)
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    Quote Originally Posted by socalfandabodys
    try Lamborghini Orange
    I looked at that and to me it looked like it belonged on a Honda (no offense to Honda's!) Thanks for trying, I'd like to come up with it.

    Jody

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Yuba City, CA (bout 1/2 hour north of Sacramento)
    Posts
    817
    Quote Originally Posted by camcojb
    I looked at that and to me it looked like it belonged on a Honda (no offense to Honda's!) Thanks for trying, I'd like to come up with it.

    Jody
    I think his Camaro is Lambo Orange
    J.T.

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    1,074
    Guy that sucks to say the least. Did he use the same mfg straight through including reducers? Solvent pops look more like little crators not dots. If it is solvent you are in tough spot because do you risk going on top of that again without bare metal restrip? Why don't you have his paint rep take a look maybe a warranty issue he can push through if he stuck with same product. At least they may help you with product costs. As far as the high solids clear the Spies stuff is good but when cut sometimes leaves a sort of clear wave as it looks too thick. The so called German stuff is usually better product but there are many big dollar cars shot with Dupont and PPG with no problems so I would look at what was done vs the product. I just do not want to see you go through again. I would actually check what he shot on that car including his reducers and hardeners. There are just too many off brand products being mixed these days. As for the orange try looking at PPG or any other brands plain old orange toner color it is vibrant to say the least. You can than tone from there. If you were in NY I would gladly help you out. Actually if you have clear shot of actual color you want I can mix a 1/2 pint and give you formula to match. Good luck Brian

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Wilton, CA. (Sacramento)
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperBlue68
    I think his Camaro is Lambo Orange

    If that's true I will apologize in advance, just a bit too flashy for me! No offense intended SoCal!!!!!!!

    Jody

  18. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Wilton, CA. (Sacramento)
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    Quote Originally Posted by BRIAN
    Guy that sucks to say the least. Did he use the same mfg straight through including reducers? Solvent pops look more like little crators not dots. If it is solvent you are in tough spot because do you risk going on top of that again without bare metal restrip? Why don't you have his paint rep take a look maybe a warranty issue he can push through if he stuck with same product. At least they may help you with product costs. As far as the high solids clear the Spies stuff is good but when cut sometimes leaves a sort of clear wave as it looks too thick. The so called German stuff is usually better product but there are many big dollar cars shot with Dupont and PPG with no problems so I would look at what was done vs the product. I just do not want to see you go through again. I would actually check what he shot on that car including his reducers and hardeners. There are just too many off brand products being mixed these days. As for the orange try looking at PPG or any other brands plain old orange toner color it is vibrant to say the least. You can than tone from there. If you were in NY I would gladly help you out. Actually if you have clear shot of actual color you want I can mix a 1/2 pint and give you formula to match. Good luck Brian

    I would pay you to come up with the rendering color (the original orange one) that isn't full of pearl. SERIOUSLY! Nobody out here wants to screw with it.

    It actually had pimples sticking up which sanded easily. There were other things too so I am stripping to my original primer, removing everything he did.

    Jody

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    OKC, OK
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    3,740
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    Try the late Camaro Sunset Orange but remove some of the orange and add in more of the gold. It looks to be the same hue as you rendering, just need tweeking. If it wasn't Saturday night I would go down to the paint store and play around. It's nice when I can walk in and they let me mix my own paint!

    Mike
    Mike Redpath
    Musclerodz & Customz
    405-288-0189
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  20. #40
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Tacompton
    Posts
    710

    camcojb

    Non taken . Its actually my brothers camaro. I own the chevelle. The lambo orange was able to be toned down a bit. When its not in direct sunlight it almost looks like a straight orange. I guess it takes so getting use to. By the way sweet car and I personally would stick to black. It never goes out of style and always attracts a big crowd.

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