Still confused on this oil and temp sensor deal.....

[trapin]

Alright....so from what I've gathered so far....for oil pressure, I am going to want to buy a cover plate for my AutoKraft oil filter adapter (as justin did) and drill a hole into it to feed an Autometer oil sending unit for my "electronic?" oil pressure gauge. When done hooking that up I am guessing that the old oil pressure sending unit that is on the top/back of block behind the intake needs to be removed and plugged because it will no longer be needed. Am I correct?

Also...for the water temp gauge I am going to want to drill out the allen head plug on the one side to turn it into and adapter for a temp sensor "to be bought later". After that is done, what do I do with the factory temp sensor that was originally on the head on the opposite side that sent information to the PCM? Do I toss that and plug the hole? Do I need to necessarily drill out that allen head bolt to make it an adapter or can I just buy a whole kit? If the factory sender get's tossed and the old hole plugged, do those connections on my harness get edited out and my PCM edited to remove oil and temp?

Whew! I think that's everything.

Thanks.

[parsonsj]

Tony, if you are using the factory PCM, you'll need to provide water temp to it. I'm not sure about oil pressure. I think you should plan on dual temp and pressure sensors. :(

jp

[HILROD]

You'd need the stock senders for the stock pcm, unless you had them tuned out. It should need to see oil pressure.

[Steve1968LS2]

Like John said you need to keep the factory water temp sender, the PCM needs it. The PCM DOESN'T need the oil pressure info.

Most people don't realise that you can also get oil pressure info from the block just behind the intake manifold instead of just plugging it up. This is where the factory gets the info. You just need the right fitting to make it work. I put a mech gauge on Penny in that spot just to have a back-up to my elec gauge. It's a good option if you can't get it (or it's a pain) down by the oil filter.

Drilling out an allen plug to adapt a water temp sensor is a bigger pain than it seems. By the time you drill a hole big enough for the sensor the wall gets pretty thin. If your hole is off then the wall will fail while installing. Autometer does make the right fitting, but the sensor barely fit and I had to grind it down a bit. The easiest thing to do (what I wish I would have done) would be to mill the hole larger when the head is off the car and use a standard size adaptor. You can only do this with the head off the engine though.

I haven't had my coffee so I hope that made sense.. lol

[Steve1968LS2]

You'd need the stock senders for the stock pcm, unless you had them tuned out. It should need to see oil pressure.

No, the PCM only takes oil pressure in to send it to the gauge cluster. It needs water temp, IAT, and such to adjust how the engine runs, but it doesn't require oil pressure info for the car to run.

It could cause a Check Engine light, but that's taken care of when the computer is reprogrammed to remove the VAT, and other "un-needed" functions.

[camcojb]

As has been said you'll need two water temp sensors; one for the EFI computer and one for your gauge. I used the stock water temp sensor in the drivers front head and used the rear passenger one with an Autometer adaptor to install the Autometer sender for my gauge.

I also used an Autometer adaptor for the rear oil pressure feed to adapt from the metric thread to my Autometer sender, much easier than using that cover and drilling/tapping.

Jody

[TA219]

What i did for the oil pressure is bought one of these adaptors http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...ght=oil+cooler and then used an autometer elec gauge.

then buy the 1/8 male - female 90* adapter and attach the elec sender

Because the sender is pretty big it woulnt fit and look nice behind the intake so next to the oil filter was a good fit in my scenario

[DCx]

tony did you get that oil pan side cover? i have a spare sitting right here. also i finally sold and shipped my LS6 intake and fuel injectors. i have my edelbrock victor jr in the mail. im just going to run the autometer m16x1.5 to 1/8 npt adaptor and run the autometer sending unit on the back of the block. my current SBC has a 45* fitting and it clears all the madness of the dist, wiper motor, and coil, with room to spare.

i didnt drill out the oil pan side cover.

if you need that side cover let me know. i will run to the post office and drop it in a priority envelope.

i also bought a m12x1.5 to 1/8 npt fitting for the autometer temp sender. its all coming in the mail with my intake. ill let you know how it works out.

[Steve1968LS2]

tony did you get that oil pan side cover? i have a spare sitting right here.

He's not running the stock oil pan, so that gizmo won't help him.

[trapin]

I think the gizmo he's talking about I need. The AutoKraft oil filter adapter has an area on that side that needs to be capped off. My adapter didn't come with one but I think Autokraft sent him one and then he ordered another by mistake...or am I mistaken? Yes, Justin...send that to me if you get a chance. I'll Paypal what you want for it.

[DCx]

its GM part number 12577903. i think its found on CTS and GTO oil pans. i think it was a special order part because it didnt show up with the gaskets i bought. so i ordered another. a few days later 2 showed up.

Tony here is the part number for the gasket to use with it 12553210. or just RTV the hell out of it. also you will need 2 m6x1.0 bolts for the side of the oil filter adaptor, and 2 for the rear of the oil pan. i had a hell of a time finding shorter bolts for the oil pan.

did you drill and tap your block for the missing oil pan hole? if not i have the drill bit and tap i can throw in the envelope. let me know.

I just dug up your address from my pay pal account. PM me and respond to the thread and ill go to the post office.

[trapin]

PM sent. Thanks Justin.

[Steve1968LS2]

But wait, your not using a factory style oil pan.. I could be mistaken but that part hooks to the OEM oil pan. Your autocraft pany won't have that provision.

Am I missing something here??? lol

[Steve1968LS2]

I think the gizmo he's talking about I need. The AutoKraft oil filter adapter has an area on that side that needs to be capped off. My adapter didn't come with one but I think Autokraft sent him one and then he ordered another by mistake...or am I mistaken? Yes, Justin...send that to me if you get a chance. I'll Paypal what you want for it.

Ok.. gotcha. Many people think that oil doohicky for the oil pressure is on the block when in fact it's on the pan.

I need a beer.

[camcojb]

still think it's easier to use the autometer metric adaptor and put it in the rear of the intake cover like a normal small block would be. You can see mine in this pic:

[camcojb]

and you can see the factory water temp sensor on the drivers side of the head for the EFI computer here:



and the Autometer adaptor and regular gauge temp sensor on the passenger side of the head, at the rear:

[hotrdblder]

just had to show it off uh jody, lol
killer!!!
tony, do it how jody has it

[WS6]

Tony,

I'd do it like Jody did cause that's how I did it . I had an oil temp sensor as well so I drilled the cover that you just purchased for it. If you're not running oil temp, don't worry about it. I bought both the adapters for the cylinder head and the rear of the block from autometer and had no issues. Just realize that your oil sender on the back of the block is in the block itself not the intake valley cover like on Jody's car.

Jody, that's an LS2 right? Is that Malitude? Ok off topic but are you still building that mean turbo LT1 69?

[Patrick]

Where are you getting the Autometer metric adapters and do you have the part # for H20 adapter?

Thanks
Patrick

[camcojb]

just had to show it off uh jody, lol
killer!!!