ATS Motor mounts with ?? headers

[LS69TA]

My S&P mounts didn't allow my S&P headers to clear, I had to ding the #1 primary pretty good. I had an early ATS tranny x-member that didn't fit either. Just part of my bad luck I guess.

[trapin]

3 pages already and I still don't know what to take from this thread.

So far the best I can guess is, I buy the ATS kit, flip the mounts upside down, redrill them, bang a header, buy a new steering box, do a backflip, dump a beer over my head and stick my thumb up my ass.

Did I miss anything?

[dhutton]

3 pages already and I still don't know what to take from this thread.

So far the best I can guess is, I buy the ATS kit, flip the mounts upside down, redrill them, bang a header, buy a new steering box, do a backflip, dump a beer over my head and stick my thumb up my ass.

Did I miss anything?

Nope, you got it right and that's why I bought an Art Morrison subframe. I read everything I could find to figure out what worked with what and could never put together a consistent story.

Don

[DCx]

i still have to pull my current (running) engine and trans to begin the process of trial and error with the ls1 over my $7000 paint job! i still don't own a set of headers and my engine is headless by the way also.

i would like some certainty too! im still going to try the modified hooker method. i have a set of trans dapt mounts i will use as a template for the block mounting portion. the local auto zone has energy motor mounts for $24 each, so ill pick those up as well.

now my next issue. where can i get some 1/4 steel stock? home depot? lowes?

[BonzoHansen]

So far the best I can guess is, I buy the ATS kit, flip the mounts upside down, redrill them, bang a header, buy a new steering box, do a backflip, dump a beer over my head and stick my thumb up my ass.

..you do the hokey pokey and you turn yourself around...

You are not alone on this one....

[skeeters65]

I talked to S&P and they recomended not using Poly motor mounts.. They said the standard rubber one were fine..

??

[CarlC]

now my next issue. where can i get some 1/4 steel stock? home depot? lowes?

Find in the phone book a local metals supplier. They likely have something in the remnant rack that will work.

[ss dave]

When this thread started I believe the question was what would work with stock subframe, headers, which mounts? If you use any of the aftermarket frames, ie. AM, Chris A's and a few others, the fit of the headers is much easier-with R&P: no steering box to deal with.
ATS mounts/plates should probably be used with ATS Tri-Y headers. When using this set-up their catalog states" by flipping the mounts upside down, the LSx sits lower...".
Autocrafts plates are very similar to ATS
Hooker has plates but no mounts, (I used ATS mounts) and should be used with Hooker headers- according to the manufractuer. You can use any mounts you prefer- even the rubber stock mounts.
S&P's plates can be used with any mount, as far as I can tell, they state in their catalog, "GEN 3 plates allows you to bolt LS-1 to Original V-8 Motor Mounts on most venicles with Chevy V-8 Mounts". pg. 88 2006 I catalog.
But as I stated before, experiment for best fit. Your first try miight be lucky and work.
Hope this clarifies the issue.

[BA.]

fwiw, I agree with you trapin. I have a stock frame. All I want is a full length header to tuck tightly for maximum ground clearance.

I have no idea what plates to use but I'm starting to believe that I'll be buying and "massaging" things afterwards....... :(

[Rybar]

I don't know about you guys, but I am running S&P plates, Energy suspension poly SBC mounts and Stainless Works LT headers for stock steering and my setup works. I was told this by Jason who built Fuel and had the same setup (stock steering box) The only mod I had to make was changing the bolts on the steering box top cover to button head and changing my rag-joint for a u-joint.

I think people are wanting confirmation if the Hooker LT headers fit with a certain adapter plate WITHOUT any major mods (ie a bolt-in deal)

[DCx]

crap! the stainless works headers for stock steering box are $841! on their site.

http://www.stainlessworks.net/cart/p...oducts_id=1163

jegs has them for $762

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_328588_-1

if you dont get them polished will they turn gold/blue? my stainless catback on my cobra turned a gold color.

Rybar, do you have a part number for the steering U-joint? if the stainless headers save the hastle for an exta $100 bux over the hookeres that might be the ticket. but then again, the hookers are ceramic coated.

and to throw more gas on the fire!!!! here is the link to the ls1tech debate about stainless works headers with pics!

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...8&page=1&pp=20

Rybar, can you post some up close pics of your headers? the ls1tech thread said your #3 tube was different. Do yours look like this?



or this?

[CarlC]

That steering box looks strangely familiar.

Gents, the correct headers for steering box cars, according to SW, is as shown in the second photo above. They are the same as I received from SW.

http://img340.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0168kb3.jpg

According to SW the S&P mounts should be used. For most applications these will work fine. However, I have hood and radiator clearance problems. I need the engine to sit as low and aft as possible, and did not want to use a mild steel header in a supercharged application. First choice would have been ATS headers, but the Dad budget is not allowing it. In the near future I'll be fitting ATS mounts with SW headers and possibly making adjustments to both. No firm timeline since work is stupid busy.

[Rybar]

DCx, mine looks like the ones in the first pic. Maybe they were an original design? The second ones look alot better for clearing the steering box.

If you look at my site you can see pics of my header tubes to steering box clearance. It is very tight but it works, I just had to change the steering box top cover bolts to button head style.

As for the u-joint I dont have a part # but the size is listed on the pic (if you click on it) in my album:

http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...20head%20swap/

I would measure and check yours as there are many different sizes.

[DCx]

man those headers are in there tight! looks like the second set yields no rag joint issues. im leaning towards a set of these now. Carl, did you test fit your engine in the frame yet? i can see why you need it lower that blower is tall.

i just ordered my cylinder heads, so now im totally broke! ended up with a set of texas speed (PRC) 5.3L stage 2.5 heads. they flow 293 and .500 should be good to go with my magic stick 3 cam.

[CarlC]

In the near future.

[trapin]

I don't know about you guys, but I am running S&P plates, Energy suspension poly SBC mounts and Stainless Works LT headers for stock steering and my setup works.

Thank you Rybar...thank you very much. That settles it.

At this point I'm for giving the Hookers a middle finger and going with the SW ones. They have a better look to them anyway. I personally like when they turn all blue and gold. And the if the 2nd pic is the current header for the stock steering box, then it looks like they are the ticket. They're worth the extra bill.

[Rybar]

Thank you Rybar...thank you very much. That settles it.

At this point I'm for giving the Hookers a middle finger and going with the SW ones. They have a better look to them anyway. I personally like when they turn all blue and gold. And the if the 2nd pic is the current header for the stock steering box, then it looks like they are the ticket. They're worth the extra bill.

Glad I could help, I never responded to this thread because it was discussing the Hooker headers not the SW headers.

The one thing I notice about the revised set of SW headers is that those bolts on the top cover of the steering box will still need to be changed as it looks like that bolt is touching the front header tube.

[DarkoNova]

Rybar, did you coat your headers or something? They're supposed to be stainless, correct? Why is it that the pics DCx posted look dull and unfinished and yours look almost chrome? For almost a grand, I'd expect some nice looking headers.

Matt

[DCx]

the list price on the polished ones are $1211!

jegs has them for $1094.99

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_328590_-1

[vp23271]

Thanks Guys!

Just saved this thread, because you all just answered a bunch of questions that I would have had in about 3 months! Almost ready to go pick up a LS2 (or maybe a LS3) and now I know what motor mounts/header I will need. Thanks for taking the time to post all the pic's and detailed info.

Rick