ATS Motor mounts with ?? headers

[ss dave]

ATS mounts are polyu mounts, standard I believe are a hardened rubber. Hooker plates attach to the motor then the mounts attach to the plates. The hats are the brackets that attach to the subframe and bolt to the mounts, my body guy calls them that. I talked with my brother and hopefully will post pics at lunch. The diminsions of my camera pics were too large.

[ss dave]

Dang never could figure out how to shrink my pics. Got Adobe Photo Album Starter but I'm not smart enuf to make it work. Anyways sent the pics to BA he said he could post em. Thanks I'll keep trying!

[BA.]

Here ya go Dave-ster! Glad to help out.

From Dave:
"This is the first of two sets of pics. It shows the subframe and the hats.
Look closely at the subframe just above the hats you will see where we filled in the original bracket holes.
The top of the hat dissects the hole almost perfectly in half."








"This shows, albeit poorly, the header steering box clearance.
The engine removed after in car mock-up and tune, note the drivers side headers without dimples, dings or massage!
Finally the receiving vehicle that will push the motor around! "








HOLY FREAKIN CRAP!! Those are HUGE pics. I better resize!

[BA.]

Very sweet looking engine Dave!! Nice choice of valve covers too.

Nice Vette behind the engine shot also!! ;)

[ss dave]

Thank you Allan, aka BA. Your know-how helped to post the pics. YEA! The subframe is getting powdercoated Friday, then the powerplant goes back in. I'll take some better clearance and firewall shots at that time. maybe I'll get this pic post thing figured but thanks again for your help.
Dave

[DCx]

so you actually redrilled the sub frame and moved the "hats" (engine frame stands) down a tad? im a little lost in your pictures as to what you did to modify them?

if you look at the 4 dimples on the top of the "hats" pictured those are hipo 350 or 302 engine stands. from what i gather those stands position the engine lower then the standard 307 or 327 mounts, which place the engine higher. hmmm dont want to open a can of worms but i think the taller stands would yield a better result.

a user on ls1tech told me that his $39.99 ebay special car shop mounts worked fine with his hooker headers. when it comes down to it im going to buy a set of car shop mounts and hooker mounts and hope for the best.

http://www.pozziracing.com/camaro_engine.htm

327 frame brackets 3955183(L) and 3980938(R) The height from frame to center of mount hole is R-2 1/4", L-2 1/4".

69 High Performance Frame Brackets 3945507(L) 3945508(R) the height to the hole is 1 7/16"(L) and 1 1/2"(R)

[ss dave]

Thanks for pointing that out, I had no idea thast GM made different "hats"/ stands for different powerplants but that makes sense. Way to go GM! If you can find mounts/stands that work better and don't have to drill them that's the way to go. It will save you alot of experimenting. I didn't modify the stands just moved them to position the engine for better placement in the bay and with alignment to the tranny. Magically the headers fit like they were stock! But if you can place them at $40.00 that's a bargain! Thanks for the info. Great eye I see the four dimples! Went to Classic Industries and found that the 327 bracket was different than the 302 /HI-PO 350 and the BB 396. At least they have different order #'s. it appears the 327 has one dimple and the BB none, each has different heights. Don't know which one would work but if it does it would be easier than drilling! We took the 302/hi-po 350 frame brackets with the lowest profile and positioned them lower on the subframe for correct alignment, this set the engine lower in the bay than the original subframe holes and aligned it correctly with the 4l60e.

[DCx]

i went to the automotive swap meet today and found a guy selling some brand new trans dapt engine swap plates. I picked em up. not sure whose design they copy, the look like car shop mounts. will see how they pan out.

[DCx]

made a new thread with some measurements of the trans dapt ls1 mounts.

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=33908

[Patrick]

FWIW:

I tried using the Hooker Headers with S&P's plates and the headers hit the steering box.

So...I took a pair of the Hooker plates and redrilled them to sit lower and further back. I now have plenty of clearance.

Here is another thread on this topic:

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...949#post242949

I am running a Kenne Bell S.C. so I would really like the motor to sit as low as possible...Does anyone know how low the ATS mounts and plates position the motor?

[skeeters65]

Has anyone used the Autokraft Mounts and adaptors??
Are they similar to any other mount out there??

What steering box are all you guys using?? Power??

Thanks

[DCx]

Rodder used the autokraft mounts with hooker headers. the autokraft mounts are the same as the ATS units, flipping the motor mount upside down. he had to put a few good dings in his hooker headers to make them work.





im going with Patrick's mounting idea. making the engine mount inline with the block mounts but slightly forward about 1/2 inch. its the same mounting pattern as the s&p plates except the engine block mount doesn't share a hole with the motor mount.

car shop/s&p



Patrick's modified hooker plates (hooker plates are longer and give extra room for relocation)


(thanks for the images guys!)

[skeeters65]

Oh Boy Oh Boy!!
Even more confused!!

[DarkoNova]

lol, seriously. Wtf mounts work with Hooker headers?

Matt

[DCx]

modified hooker mounts. the reason for bringing the motor mount down and forward is to lower the tans (so a T56 doesnt smash in the floor) and to move it away from smashing the firewall. when the time comes i will document my install and let you all know how it turns out.

[skeeters65]

modified hooker mounts. the reason for bringing the motor mount down and forward is to lower the tans (so a T56 doesnt smash in the floor) and to move it away from smashing the firewall. when the time comes i will document my install and let you all know how it turns out.

That works with a newer IROC power Box??
Thanks

[DarkoNova]

Meh, I already had to cut a huge section of the floor out for my TKO, so I really don't care about that.

Any other mounts work with Hooker headers?

Matt

[ss dave]

There are four plates that I know of for the LSx swap into a first gen.
ATS, very nice, well made, pretty!
Autocraft, well made, look nice
S&P, solid, well made
Hooker, solid, iron, appear "heavy duty"
I've tried all except the Autocraft, which is very similar, if not exactly like one of the others mentioned.
The bottom line that I've found is that you will probably need to experiment with the plates to find what works in your application. Initially, if using Hooker headers, I would go with the Hooker plates. You may be blessed and they will work without mods. Try to stay with the same manufacturer, since they designed the headers AND the plates. Ask them what mounts to use for your app. If they don't initially work don't be surprised, nor frustrated. Tyler at ATS can help. The guys at S&P can help. They have done this before. BTW the subframe was pc'd and the engine is back in, I'll try again, uugggh, to post pics.

[5150mechanic]

Is it safe to say that S&P, ATS, car products, and transdapt mounts have the same bolt dimensions ?,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

[streetk14]

I had the ATS install kit and Stainless Works headers on my '68, and everything fit perfectly. I had a Wayne Due C4 frame on that car, so I had no steering box in the way on the drivers side. My '67 has S&P's motor mount adapters and a C5 subframe from Wayne Due. The Stainless Works headers fit perfectly on that car as well.

These headers were designed for the Wayne Due subframes, so I don't have any experience with the standard subframe headers. I can say that the quality and ground clearance of the Stainless Works headers are top notch.

Andy