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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Delaware, OH
      Posts
      1,379

      Slip-fit collectors - How do I get them to seal?

      I'm using Dynatech headers which utilize slip-fit collectors. They fit well and all, but leak badly around the collector/pipe connections. Anyone have any ideas how to seal slip-fit collectors?



      I've tried squeezing a thick bead of Loctite RTV 5920 Copper Silicone gasket maker inside each collector tube before slipping them on but it only lasts about 50-75 miles before burning/blowing out. Any other thoughts/products out there that might help?

      Thanks!



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2001
      Location
      Accord, NY
      Posts
      2,295
      Country Flag: United States
      Dan, have you tried the band clamps?
      69 Camaro convertible, 410, M22, 8-pt cage therapy program. SOLD.
      68 camaro - SOLD
      67 Bel Air - New street project with perfect floors, frame and trunk!

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Delaware, OH
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      1,379
      Quote Originally Posted by Rick Dorion
      Dan, have you tried the band clamps?
      Hmmm, not a bad idea. Only problem is that I'd have to grind off the existing mounting tabs. Do they make 2-1/8" diameter band clamps?

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      El Dorado Hills, CA
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      789
      Country Flag: United States
      I thought the slip-fit collectors were supposed to use the donut style gasket, I was looking at converting to these as well, ground clearance issues......
      Brad
      68 Camaro - Procharged LQ4 coming - Currie 9" narrowed, bagged, lays frame, BMW projector HID's LED tails, 18"s, lexus center console, seat warmers, A/C... Mini-tubbing in progress!!

      07 BMW 750li -loaded

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Sep 2001
      Location
      Accord, NY
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      2,295
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      I think you may be thinking of the ball/cone style.

      Dan, I've used 2 1/2 and 3" ones like these:

      http://static.summitracing.com/globa...702500_w_m.jpg
      69 Camaro convertible, 410, M22, 8-pt cage therapy program. SOLD.
      68 camaro - SOLD
      67 Bel Air - New street project with perfect floors, frame and trunk!

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Delaware, OH
      Posts
      1,379
      Quote Originally Posted by Rick Dorion
      Dan, I've used 2 1/2 and 3" ones like these:

      http://static.summitracing.com/globa...702500_w_m.jpg
      Thanks Rick. I found some 2" diameter band clamps that 'might' work on my 2-1/8" tubes.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Louisiana
      Posts
      101
      did the band clamps work? i just bought a set of the same headers. thanks
      p.s... how is the ground clearance? nice motor!!

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Eastern Virginia
      Posts
      3,960
      Country Flag: United States
      Not sure if it will work, but check ebay auction 320112522537

      Or, I used this style on my 3" dual exhaust, check ebay auction 120111280357.
      Scot
      86 Monte SS


    9. #9
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Delaware, OH
      Posts
      1,379
      Quote Originally Posted by Rebird
      did the band clamps work? i just bought a set of the same headers. thanks
      p.s... how is the ground clearance? nice motor!!
      Thanks! Unfortunately no, there's just not enough room between the tubes on the collector for band clamps. For now I'm back to spreading a thick layer "copper" Permatex inside the collector tubes, then when I slide the collector on the header it seals against the tubes - for a while, then it burns/blows out. My only other choice is to use 'exhaust paste', but the problem with that is it hardens permanently and I don't want that. In order to remove the driver's side header I have to be able to remove the collector and separate the header (or pull the engine).

      For ground clearance comparison, the only other header with which I can compare is Hooker Super Comps. The Dynatech header is much tighter to the floorboard and provides a good inch additional ground clearance vs. the Hookers.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Delaware, OH
      Posts
      1,379
      Quote Originally Posted by Samckitt
      Not sure if it will work, but check ebay auction 320112522537

      Or, I used this style on my 3" dual exhaust, check ebay auction 120111280357.
      Thanks Scot. Unfortunately I just can't squeeze those between the collector inlet tubes. I'm using those band clamps elsewhere on my exhaust and they work very well.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Louisiana
      Posts
      101
      Bummer..... i'll let you know if i find any fixes that are not perminant. thanks for the info and nice car!
      p.s... how tall is your intake on the 572? it looks like it will clear the cowl hood with no problems. thanks

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Sep 2001
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      Accord, NY
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      Does dynatech have an opinion on the leakage. Seems the design could use a split end with welded clamps already on that you could tighten.
      69 Camaro convertible, 410, M22, 8-pt cage therapy program. SOLD.
      68 camaro - SOLD
      67 Bel Air - New street project with perfect floors, frame and trunk!

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Delaware, OH
      Posts
      1,379
      Quote Originally Posted by Rick Dorion
      Does dynatech have an opinion on the leakage. Seems the design could use a split end with welded clamps already on that you could tighten.
      Although the headers are of good quality, I can't say the same for Dynatech's customer service. I've called and received the usual "I'll check with so-n-so and call you back", only never to receive that call-back. When I call back, I get the run-around.

      The split-end with welded clamps is a good idea.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Posts
      167
      I had ground clearance issues with my Hooker header flanges so I cut them off. Installed the slip fit adaptors between collector and 2.5" exhaust and used the wide stainless band clamps that come with a layer of dynamat-like material at the joint. To help with the leak issue I also put a layer or two of header tube heat wrap at each seam. Seems to be working well so far.
      Bob
      Mooresville, NC
      '66 Chevelle SS (461, T-56)
      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/vb...?do=view&g=274

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      England
      Posts
      1,042
      What about expanding the hedder tubes ,I've used a socket it only needs to be the end just to make it that bit tighter then spread the copper on after.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Delaware, OH
      Posts
      1,379
      Quote Originally Posted by paul67
      What about expanding the hedder tubes ,I've used a socket it only needs to be the end just to make it that bit tighter then spread the copper on after.
      Thanks and not a bad idea, but the collectors are already a bear to get on and off. Surprising really, considering the amount of exhaust that spews from the joints.

      Last time I put a nice thick bead of copper RTV down inside the collector tube, in hopes that when the tubes bottomed out in the collector the RTV would seal things up. Instead I think the RTV was pushed out by the header tubes in to the collector where is was blown out by the exhaust. Next time I'm going to entirely coat the inside of each collector tube with a nice even coat of RTV in hopes of sealing the entire tube mating surface vs. just the end.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Delaware, OH
      Posts
      1,379
      Quote Originally Posted by BobB66SS
      I had ground clearance issues with my Hooker header flanges so I cut them off. Installed the slip fit adaptors between collector and 2.5" exhaust and used the wide stainless band clamps that come with a layer of dynamat-like material at the joint. To help with the leak issue I also put a layer or two of header tube heat wrap at each seam. Seems to be working well so far.
      I use those stainless band clamps on the large 4" end of the collector as well. They work great. My exhaust leaks are where the four individual header tubes insert in to the four collector tubes. It's just too tight to get any sort of small band clamp or wrap in there.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Delaware, OH
      Posts
      1,379
      Quote Originally Posted by Rebird
      Bummer..... i'll let you know if i find any fixes that are not perminant. thanks for the info and nice car!
      p.s... how tall is your intake on the 572? it looks like it will clear the cowl hood with no problems. thanks
      I'm not sure of the actual 572 intake height measurement, but it does clear my 2" cowl (with a little over 1" to spare), when using a 14x4 air cleaner and 1.5" drop base.

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      Petersham ,ma
      Posts
      522
      dan, next time try the red rvt its the high temp stuff, on out race cars we used to use it for a header gasket(head to header) and it holds up. but that with open headers with no back pressure

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      England
      Posts
      1,042
      How long have you run the engine as you might find over time ie a week that they seal up, also what make you think there leaking , can you see hear or feel some thing , as mine are showing soot as the engine not been running much but feel no exhaust.

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