64 Studebaker Lark Daytona

[venturabeachpup]

This is gonna be one Rude, Crued, Shrewed, Stude! I love it!

[Motown 454]

Nice fab work on those wheel tubbs.

[PhillipM]

Depending on how hard you plan to run the car you maybe want to rethink the ls1 hubs. I know the big grip, competitive f-bodys have trouble wearing out the hubs within a just few events.

Just so no one is confused, Bart usually runs Corvette hubs and Baer 6 pistons on his suspensions. I am asking him to use these brand new fbody parts that I have so they fit in my Saltflat wheels...

Now that that is out of the way. Can you point me to anything on this? I have searched around and haven't found anyone complaining about them. Granted I don't hang around with the late model FBody guys at the races very much so maybe I haven't been in the right places. They honestly look as beefy as the 'Vette parts. But looks can be deceiving.

[slowcamaro]

Now that that is out of the way. Can you point me to anything on this? I have searched around and haven't found anyone complaining about them. Granted I don't hang around with the late model FBody guys at the races very much so maybe I haven't been in the right places. They honestly look as beefy as the 'Vette parts. But looks can be deceiving.

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.p...=14052&hl=hubs

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.p...=10188&hl=hubs - A thread based on someone trying to solve the problem.

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.p...=13106&hl=hubs

Just a few of the first results to come up when using the keyword "hubs". As I tried to portray their lifespan really depends on how much grip and how hard you abuse them. Even still it seems as though they dont seem to be as reliable as conventional bearings. I don't really follow the 4th gen or vette topics but it seems as though the problem also occurs with the c4 hubs.

[PhillipM]

In light of your message earlier I email a friend of mine who used to work at Wheel 2 Wheel about the issue. Attached are his conclusions, which appear to be the same as you have pointed out...

"We built many Firehawk Challenge cars using the stock F-car hubs while I was at W2W. I know in a race environment they were replaced pretty regularly, but there weren't ever any catastrophic failures that I am aware of. If you're looking at a one-lap of America type car, I'd consider using the strongest parts you can get, but for an occasional track car the TA stuff should be fine."

Sounds like we need to decide about what we really want to do with the car, and how ofter we want to do it.

-Phillip

Also, the links appear to be broken??

[slowcamaro]

Odd they work for me. Maybe it requires a login to view. At anyrate
go to the site and search "hubs" and you should turn up a good about of info.
http://www.frrax.com

[PhillipM]

Yeah, must have to sign in...

[PhillipM]

These showed up yesterday. Should be the final piece of weather stripping for the car. They are pretty much unobtanium for the 2 door hardtop model.

[PhillipM]

Okay, checked the fit of my wing window seals last night and everything appears to be good! Thank goodness!!!

[wmhjr]

I'd sure like to see this one in person. This looks like it's going to be a really cool finished product.

[PhillipM]

I'd sure like to see this one in person. This looks like it's going to be a really cool finished product.

Were planning to bring it on Power Tour next year so if you attend, then that just may happen

[PhillipM]

Okay after further investigation, thanks to members of the board for pointing it out, these C6 Z06 hubs arrived today

[jp455]

We used to use those on an MT900 Mosler GT car that won the European GT championship. They worked out great!

[PhillipM]

We used to use those on an MT900 Mosler GT car that won the European GT championship. They worked out great!

Thats more like what I wanted to hear

[PhillipM]

So we were able to get the body back on the frame jig last night in preperation for setting the frame rails. We went ahead and cut them about where we think the rear crossmember is going to be placed. At this time we are also brainstorming how were going to mount the radiator and other items. 98% of the rust repair is finished up now and I think we will turn our attention to the suspension and roll cage and not worry about the other 2% at the moment. Important thing is that most of the sheet metal fabwork is now finished. There will be some changes up and around the rear end to gain clearance for the coilovers and such but that will be a little down the road. I also couldn't resist putting the rear tires up in there after the minitubs. I know what most are going to say... "But they were a good size before". It is so much easier to go bigger now then later. It apperas that the tire is sucked in pretty close but I don't have a brake package on it yet.

[hechtrod]

Dude, this is gonna look rad. I LOVE LOVE LOVE those wheels.

[PhillipM]

Thanks man. The wheels have been kind of hit or miss with people. We really like them. Although, I wish that I could fit a bigger brake package behind them. But that leads me to another question... Are we obsessed with large rotors and calipers? Do many cars on this site need 14" rotors and 6 piston calipers? Maybe, maybe not. I'm hoping that a solid 12" rotor and GM 2 piston caliper with a decent pad will haul this thing down at speed. Who knows. We'll see I guess.

[Scott Parkhurst]

Bigger rotors can deal with the kind of heat a day on the road course will generate. The more metal, the more heat it can deal with, and the more durability you get.
If you have Vette hubs, big rotors and 6-piston calipers bolt right up.

[srh3trinity]

How much does this car weigh? It looks small in the pics, so you may be able to get away with smaller brakes.

[PhillipM]

Bigger rotors can deal with the kind of heat a day on the road course will generate. The more metal, the more heat it can deal with, and the more durability you get.
If you have Vette hubs, big rotors and 6-piston calipers bolt right up.

They bolt right up if they fit in the wheels... which they do not fit behind the Salt Flats.