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    Results 21 to 29 of 29
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Indianapolis IN
      Posts
      28
      Quote Originally Posted by myclone
      You have to keep in mind the guy youre quoting owns a typhoon so the AWD coupled with lots of tq and boosted launches will turn even a 60e to mush pretty easily. Not just failed soft parts but snapped output shafts, twisted/broken input shafts, 2-4 band anchors ripped loose, and planetaries that explode (BTDT).

      On a RWD vehicle that only has so much traction a 60e will be suprisingly durable as you stated. IMO 500hp is do-able with a 60e on street tires as long as the owner is aware of the fact that if he starts flogging it at the drag strip with slicks/DRs the life expectancy is a crap shoot.

      Traction or lack there of is the key with a 700s/60e... spinning the tires keeps the trans alive but start hooking up while beating on it and all bets are off.

      It sounds like the thread originator wants a street car that he can have a little fun with and burn a little rubber every once in a while. If thats the case a properly prepped and cal'd 60e will probably serve him will. Put slicks on it and/or flog the trans regularly he'll learn to dislike it sooner or later.
      Myclone pretty much speaks for all us SyTy'ers.. I know the C5 guys can drag the 60e into the 10s relatively safely, but our heavy ass pig trucks can annhilate ANY built 700r4/4L60e. To date, there is only ONE truck that I know of that is low 10second capable that can run a 700r4 (its gotta be a freak of nature, but its a ROSSLER trans)..

      Anyhow, you can spend BIG BUCKS for a Built 700r4/4L60e with Billlet This and CRYO'd that and still have a less reliable transmission than a beefed up 80e thats running stock hard parts (upgraded clutches and steels). The 80e makes up for the weight factor with Less pump pressure (read less heat too).

      Parts are relatively cheap and will make that transmission handle justabout anything reasonably built motor wise with mostly stock (barring a parish level motor), if it was me, I'd do atleast the friction parts (and steels too). Here is what I am gonna do:


      1x 400-00034418X 34418X TH400, 4L80E 34 Element Intermediate Sprag with End Caps. $53.63 + shipping from http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/

      1x 400-0034006SP 34006-SP TH400, 4L80E HD Rear Case Bushing with Flange 64-ON. $5.24+ shipping from http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/
      (they sell transmission parts CHEAP !! Will deal with in the future... This is the cheapest I found the 34 element sprag.)



      1x 4L80E - HD2 TRANSGO Stage 2 Shift Kit 4L80 Heavy Duty, Street / Strip, or Full Race applications. $93.99/shipped from www.edgeracingconverters.com
      (please note, they also sell this kit on ebay, I had such a great experience with them on this, I bought the parts below their Ebay ID is "transmissionpartsplus")

      1x Alto 4L80E HP Super Master Rebuild Kit w/ Power Pk & Kolene Steels $304.99/shipped from www.edgeracingconverters.com
      (please note, they sell this key on ebay as well WITHOUT the KOLENE STEELS for less $$)

      Obviously this is overkill for some people, and not enough for others, I guess you need to figuire out where you fit in the HP world and what ET's you want.. I have a hard time taking anything anyone says on ebay, even if it was recently overhauled I'd still want the piece of mind knowing for sure what parts are in it. You have to yank it all out to get to the output shaft anyhow..

      All of The parts below were ordered through Transmission Parts USA (www.transmissionpartsusa.com)

      46380B 4L80E speed sensor 1991-on $16.62
      46669A 4L80E Bearing kit 1991-on. $19.05
      46999A TH400, 4L80E high energy reverse band. $10.45
      46883 4L80E Overdrive roller clutch 1991-01. $18.45
      46880A 4L80E Low roller clutch 1995-on $14.21
      46819 4L80E Universal valve body separator plate 1991-02. $13.77
      34322-01 TH400, 425, 4L80E Forward clutch hub. $82.01
      46996 4L80E Front band 1997-on $8.33


      Total is $640.74 + Labor to install ( I am doing this myself, its not hard if you get the ASTG manual and have a decent compliment of tools.)

      The worst part about building an 80e is the expense of the Torque converter.. But you DO pay for a race converter on a 700r4/4l60e as well, so the reality is, its not that bad..
      ---=== Todd ===---



      The only thing left STOCK on my truck is the shadow*





      *( this is subject to change if I can find a kick ass mod for it )


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Little Rock, Arkansas
      Posts
      945
      This has been a helpful thread for me and I'd like to thank you guys.

      I'm looking at a 4l80 for $650, recently rebuilt. I want to run it behind my 462ci Pontiac motor that will be making roughly 425HP and 500+ lb. ft. of torque. Is that a decent price (what will a controller cost me?) and will it take the abuse?

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Jan 2003
      Location
      Arizona
      Posts
      5,388
      Country Flag: United States
      That's a great deal. Does it have a shift kit installed? That would help build mechanical line pressure. The TCI computer runs $659.95 at Jeg's. If the link below does not work, go to jegs.com and search 890-377000

      http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...erm=890-377000
      ________________
      Steve Chryssos

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Patterson, NY
      Posts
      784
      I'd like to point out something to the Sy/Ty guys talking about their improved times with the 80s. You like shifting sooner, to keep the engine in it's powerband. The 80 has much closer ratios than the 60. This helps keep you in the powerband and gives you better times.

      I don't know if your results would carry over to other engines, and how they compare to street use.

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Posts
      100
      Yep, you are correct in the 80e doesn't have as low of a 1st and OD is not as high (.75 vs 700's .7)

      That may help, I think the dramatically less line pressure needed helps also. The real benefit is not having to worry about WHEN will the next tranny blow up.

      We have done everything we can to break the 80e in the test truck. And it was a minimal build. You can download a movie here of when the trans had less than 1k miles on it.

      http://gallery.jsmanufacturing.com/m...&g2_itemId=965

      Here is a day we ran it ~15 times, TCC locked up on every pass. Some passes within 20 minutes of each other. Truck was driven 2hrs to track #1 race ~12 times, driven 1hr to track #2 raced ~4time, then 2 hours back home. ~18mph on way there and back. O yea all runs on pump gas also. If you watch around half track it shifts into OD. TCC locks up in 2nd.

      http://videos.streetfire.net/search/...9988e5648b.htm

      I would say we have 100+ passes now with TCC locked up. No signs of any trans issues. Owner went to change fluid other day and it was so clean he left it alone.
      Jeff
      '62 Nova Convert
      '63 Nova Hardtop
      '92 GMC Typhoon "Not Stock"
      '93 GMC Typhoon "Stock"

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      Roanoke, VA
      Posts
      515
      Quote Originally Posted by GetMore
      I'd like to point out something to the Sy/Ty guys talking about their improved times with the 80s. You like shifting sooner, to keep the engine in it's powerband. The 80 has much closer ratios than the 60. This helps keep you in the powerband and gives you better times.

      I don't know if your results would carry over to other engines, and how they compare to street use.
      For us the higher 1st gear ratio isnt an issue since the motors in these trucks are low RPM grunt builds. They LOVE to be loaded down and with the horrible head/intake set up from the factory theyre done by 5200 rpm...if you wind it any further youre just making more noise and no more power (Ive tried wringing it out and it fell flat on its hind end by 5400).

      With that being said the higher 1st gear in the 80e may account for some of the improvement in ET due to the above reason(s) but then again I cant really tell much difference by the seat of the pants of the 80Es higher ratio when launching at 15psi off the brakes. The 80e has more than enough 1st gear ratio to blow all four tires off just like the 700 does when launching it the same way. If 1st gear is steep enough to spin the tires in an AWD vehicle then its not the gear ratio that will need work in a RWD vehicle its the suspension/traction dept that will need work.

      My .02 FWIW
      GMC Syclone (currently wrecked thanks to the typical rubber headed VA driver not paying attention to his red stop light...oh and he didnt have insurance either)
      #614 11.9 @ 113
      New stuff finished 08/06:
      4L80E trans w/TCI PCM
      Front: J&S UCA/LCA, QA1 coil overs
      Rear: Caltracks/Belltech drop leaves
      Empire drive line alum drive shaft
      Polished 17x9 F/17x11 R ZR1s with 275s/315s
      Syclone
      Tow rig

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Jun 2005
      Posts
      467
      SyTy guys - what converter stall and brand are your running? Any mods like anti-ballooning or billet stuff?

      I have the Hughes 2800 Streetfighter lockup and so far (still haven't hooked up either nitrous stage) it's working great behind my blown 383, and I have the "Lockup at WOT" box checked too!

      Jim
      Don't take a knife to a gunfight.

      Half-Assed = Half-Fast

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      Roanoke, VA
      Posts
      515
      Quote Originally Posted by DeltaT
      SyTy guys - what converter stall and brand are your running? Any mods like anti-ballooning or billet stuff?

      I have the Hughes 2800 Streetfighter lockup and so far (still haven't hooked up either nitrous stage) it's working great behind my blown 383, and I have the "Lockup at WOT" box checked too!

      Jim
      Im running a Coan TC right now and havent had any issues so far. Ive ran other brands (billet TCS 9/11) without any issues but Ive heard of lower strength TCs ballooning on a hand full of ppl.
      GMC Syclone (currently wrecked thanks to the typical rubber headed VA driver not paying attention to his red stop light...oh and he didnt have insurance either)
      #614 11.9 @ 113
      New stuff finished 08/06:
      4L80E trans w/TCI PCM
      Front: J&S UCA/LCA, QA1 coil overs
      Rear: Caltracks/Belltech drop leaves
      Empire drive line alum drive shaft
      Polished 17x9 F/17x11 R ZR1s with 275s/315s
      Syclone
      Tow rig

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Posts
      100
      Same here Coan billet. I have 2 trucks here with coans, 1 here with precision. Verdict still out on precision as we have vibration we are 80% sure is convertor on that truck.
      Jeff
      '62 Nova Convert
      '63 Nova Hardtop
      '92 GMC Typhoon "Not Stock"
      '93 GMC Typhoon "Stock"

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