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  1. #1
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    Surely putting an LS1 in an A-body isn't THIS easy?

    Had to cut the top out of my tunnel, but the engine is in and clears the crossmember without having to notch the pan or modify the crossmember (yes, that's like 3 or 4 inches between the head and the firewall):



    This pic the engine is just sitting on the crossmember (with the sump behind the crossmember) - the engine needs to come up 1/8-1/4" and needs to move back the same. I may start making the mounts tomorrow (1/4" steel plate).

    I know I'll have to notch the front of the crossmember to clear the AC lines and I'll need to work up a tranny mount, but since this was easier than I would have expected surely I'm missing something? Any gotchas I need to be watching for at this point?



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Still not sure if the title is sarcastic. Im about to do this so I hope it isnt. Which pan are you using? Can you show pics of your tunnel and crossmember clearance? Thanks.

  3. #3
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    The pan is the stock LS1 pan - the title isn't sarcastic at all. I had images of having to have the pan notched and still having to adjust the firewall. As it sits right now, there is no crossmember clearance - the pan is sitting on the crossmember; I need to move the engine back and up just a little to get it off it.

    So far as the tunnel, I did have to chop it. I don't yet know how much metal I'll need to add when I put it back together:



    The rear of the transmission is way too high in this picture; I'd guess the angle to be +4 or +5 degrees, so it should be better once it's lined up better.

  4. #4
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    Now would be a good time to stuff that little puppy as far back as possible. With the tunnel cut out and having to fab up mounts you should be able to eliminate most of that three inch gap at the firewall. It just wouldn't do to have your engine sitting out in the middle of nowhere.
    If there is a hard way to do something, I'll find it!
    My other car is a Vega.

  5. #5
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    Yeah, I guess putting an LS x in an abody would be easier due to the front steer...but then again everything is easy in Texas. looks great Derek
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  6. #6
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    Ken - agreed. The clearance on the passenger side is smaller, and I'm already going to have to notch the front of the crossmember to clear the AC lines so I don't think I'm going to be able to get it too much further back - maybe 1/2" at most.

    Vince - Thanks.

  7. #7
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    If you leave the gap behind the engine, you can fab up some nice coil pack relocation brackets and bolt them to the rear of the heads like I did on my '69. Then you can run some aftermarket valvecovers and clean up the look of the engine.

    Give yourself about 1" of clearance around the tranny when you fab up the new tunnel. Thats plenty!
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    133
    Quote Originally Posted by Nine Ball
    If you leave the gap behind the engine, you can fab up some nice coil pack relocation brackets and bolt them to the rear of the heads like I did on my '69. Then you can run some aftermarket valvecovers and clean up the look of the engine.

    Give yourself about 1" of clearance around the tranny when you fab up the new tunnel. Thats plenty!
    My thoughts excatly T. Thats what im doing on my bu . The only thing I hate about the lsx motors are thier apperance.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by malibu9in
    My thoughts excatly T. Thats what im doing on my bu . The only thing I hate about the lsx motors are thier apperance.
    Before I decided to do an LSx swap on my 72 Chevelle, I thought they where ugly too, but they grew on me. I will be using modified GTO covers to clean it up. With some work, you can make these little LSx's look pretty badass.

    I found this pic on ls1tech.com. I wouldnt mind this under my hood.

  10. #10
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    Aug 2004
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    Yea I saw that one on tech too. Very nice indeed.

  11. #11
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    if youve cut that much, why not move the firewall back a couple of inches and shove the ls1 as far back as possible, dont know your plan for under dash area but if your going with aftermarket guages or dash and or air you should have plenty of flexibility underdash

  12. #12
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    Aftermarket gauges, yes - but aftermarket air, no.. I'm going to adapt the donor evaporator to the A-body air box and use the stock underdash stuff.

    Besides, there will be interference between the AC compressor and the front of the crossmember; I'll need to notch the crossmember a little to clear the lines and back of the compressor and if I move any further back it just won't clear. Here's how it sits right now:


  13. #13
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    Correct me if i am wrong but i think that it is either the corvette or the truck serpentine system will allow to move the air out of the way. (I could be wrong just think that I read it some where). Or maybe try some kinda after market set up. Or you could try to fab up your own brackets to give you a one of a kind look.