Pedal position

[Damn True]

For those of you with track experience in their 1st Gen's:

Any problems with the pedal position of the OE setup in regard to the ability to heel/toe?

If yes, how did you fix it? Can you heat/bend the pedal arm or are they heat treated?

If no...cool.

[parsonsj]

The OEM pedals are not heat-treated. Bend away, but the easiest way I've found is to raise the throttle via a wooden block (3/4" plywood works well) covered by an aluminum face from one of the "billet" pedal kits. Doing that allows you to move the throttle to the left to fix the gap and raise it to address the depth. Plus you can "tune" it by substituting different block thickness to suit you without re-bending the pedal arm all the time.

jp

[Damn True]

The OEM pedals are not heat-treated. Bend away, but the easiest way I've found is to raise the throttle via a wooden block (3/4" plywood works well) covered by an aluminum face from one of the "billet" pedal kits. Doing that allows you to move the throttle to the left to fix the gap and raise it to address the depth. Plus you can "tune" it by substituting different block thickness to suit you without re-bending the pedal arm all the time.

jp

The only thing that comes to mind when I read this is Spanky from The Little Rascals driving a Model-T with wood blocks tied to the pedals so he can reach.

Pretty sure that isn't what you mean though.

Are you suggesting a block between the pedal mount fixture and the firewall?

[parsonsj]

Are you suggesting a block between the pedal mount fixture and the firewall?

Nope, your Spanky analogy is just right, though a bit extreme. You don't need to raise the throttle more an 1" or so. Buy a throttle pedal from wherever. It ought to be a little bigger than the OEM throttle pedal (most are so that's no big deal). Make a wooden block the same shape as the new pedal in the desired thickness (I'd start with 3/4"). Paint the wood flat black so it disappears. Fasten the new pedal on top of the wood and on top of the OEM throttle, making a pedal "sandwich" with the wood as the filling.

It will look good, it can be done in an hour, and it will work forever. If later you want the pedal higher or lower with relationship to the brake, swap the wood.

It also has the advantage of not causing any problems with a brake pedal hitting the floor with travel left in the brake pushrod, plus it can be easily reversed if you sell the car to somebody who think the "gas pedal is too close to the brake pedal".

jp

[Damn True]

Sounds like a great idea JP, thanks.

Would you tweak the throttle pedal arm to the left, or would you use the block to effect the needed offset?

[parsonsj]

I'd get a new pedal "cover" that was wider than the OEM pedal, and use the wood block to move it over. Then the effect is totally reversible.

jp

[vanzuuk1]

While we are on the subject, how about a "dead pedal" for your left foot.

Also, some guys like a ridge to anchor the bottom of their throttle foot, helps locate the foot. It applies more to a race car where the gas pedal does not reach the floor.

[wendell]

I've got a pretty good pic of the modifications that JP and zuuk are talking about,Pdone on a 68 camaro if some one could post it for me.

[vanzuuk1]

wendall, email it to me. I hope to see you at our track day in pocono may 6th and lime rock for the vintage event sept 4th.

[BRIAN]

I simply weld a tube in approx 3/4" length and 9/16 (or whatever sizes you have handy) to either side of the factory pedal after you remove the pad. You can the play with heights by adding shims if needed. You can set up your angles for both the clutch and brake pedals to whatever you want.

Honestly that is in probably 95% of the Street Rods out there. Simple and clean installation.

[vanzuuk1]

Wendell, I cant load your photo, it says file too large.