Need a cheat sheet for the Aeromotive 13202

[Y-TRY]

Funny howI did all this explaining and then found a perfect diagram. Proves that a picture really is worth 1000 words!!



I'll still get a pic of mine because it varies a little from the diagram, because of the packaging and overcoming other issues.

[whytry]

That's a great pic!! I completely understand it now.

THANKS a lot!!!!

[DeltaT]

I have my EFI fuel system set up like you say, Y-Try, and like you show in the 1st diagram. I agree it is the right way to do it, and it's working like a champ.

That being said, I don't think the A1000 pump is the right one for your carb setup, Why-try. You will have to run a -8 return line and you will have fuel heating problems. That's really an EFI pump. I know because I have fuel heating problems with the A1000 to the point that I had to use a spare B&M Supercooler to run the return fuel through, and add the Aeromotive Pump Controller, which puts your pump down at half speed around idle.

Try this Aeromotive pump instead (Summit P/N AEI-11203):




It's output pressure is 18-20psi, which can be more easily regulated down to the 6-8psi your carb needs, while still having the headroom to increase pressure as you boost the motor. That way you could run a -8 line up front, split to 2 -6 lines or flow into a fuel log like Y-Try mentions, and run a -6 return line. At that point you could probably find a more inexpensive Aeromotive regulator since you don't need -10 ports. Looks like this one would be perfect:




That's Summit P/N AEI-13301, and it's only $111.

Jim

[whytry]

really? This is the pump that I thought most were running on this site with blow-through setups....

Should I rethink my current setup then?

[Y-TRY]

I have the A1000 and the 13201 regulator without any heat problems. I think it can be done with the controller without having to switch pumps. Locating and packaging seems easier with the inline pump.

[DeltaT]

Whytry, what are your HP goals?

Y-try, are you running the controller box?

Jim

[whytry]

Y-try - What's the "controller"?

DeltaT - I am planning on being around 800hp....

In old setup with TH350, 4500 stall, transbrake and slicks it ran 10.3's... Beat a couple 9.90's cars on the street, when I hit the bottle, but could not at Sac raceway, told to put back on trailer... no cage... :(

But I know 800 hp is doable with what I am planning on doing.

[Y-TRY]

The Aeromotive fuel pump Controller. I don't have one, yet, although I know the benefits. I just haven't seen the symptoms. Admittedly, not because I'm cool, just because I somehow have lucked out so far.

The Controller Works like a relay, limiting the power to the pump and slowing it down when under normal loads. Without the controller, the pump spins at WOT the whole time. The pump gets hot and is cooled by the fuel passing through it. Problem is- this tends to heat the fuel up, quite often causing vapor lock. The hot fuel just keeps getting cycled through the fuel system because the engine only needs a fraction of it under normal driving. Each time it goes through the pump, it heats up more (but does cool some during the trip).

DeltaT's idea is a good one, but if you already have the rest of the system planned, you can probably avoid this situation by just adding the box. I looked at other pumps, too, but placement for me was easier with the inline style of pump. The Controller is about $300, so it's an expensive fix.

My car is with my cousin, up at LG Motorsports, so I can't just go get a pic (75 miles from here, 250 from my house) But I'll get some pics when I get back up there next week)

[DeltaT]

800HP is doable with a blown 468, if you use a large intercooler. I'm figuring 525HP normally aspirated, so you've got to get 275HP extra out of the blower.

That gives you a rough pressure ratio target of 1.52, which would be like 1.43 intercooled, which would mean about 14.7 x 0.43 = 6.3 lbs of boost intercooled. With your bigblock you will need a high cfm rate blower. The Vortech YSi or the Procharger D-1 or F-1 should do it. Intercooling will allow you extra headroom to run on pump gas, and be able to jack up the boost a little for race gas and/or the track.

I'd also recommend getting a wideband O2 sensor so you could check your AFR realtime.

Here's my setup:



Sorry, At that power level you will need the A1000 and larger fuel lines. I didn't understand your target when I first answered.

Sounds like fun!

Jim

My Site: http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/id1.html

[Y-TRY]

Dang, DeltaT, that's SWEET!! Very nicely done, kudos!

[whytry]

I agree very nice!!!

Can you fill me in on running the O2 sensors? I have wondered about that in the past.. THX

[DeltaT]

Thanks!

The old style, narrowband O2 sensors basically act like a switch right at gasoline's optimal (stoichiometric - the ideal combustion process during which a fuel is burned completely) Air/Fuel Ratio, 14.7, or 14.7 parts of air to 1 part gasoline.

These old O2's are almost useless for a visual monitoring of your actual AFR, because it can only tell you two things about where the AFR is relative to 14.7: It's Higher! or It's Lower!. It doesn't tell you a numeric value. That's OK for simple engine management because it tells the fuel injection system which way to go to get towards optimal AFR. It's not OK for a gauge or monitor because it doesn't get any more specific than high or low.

The newer wideband O2 sensors tell you pretty precisely what O2 level is in your exhaust, anywhere from 10:1 (very rich) to 19:1 (very lean). The monitor is updated realtime. Best case you have some sort of device gathering and storing the data so you can play it back later. Like a drag racing pass or a tuning run on the highway. Otherwise, you can have a friend watch it and see what the general trend is, and tune your carb accordingly. You might see that you are generally running lean on the low end and fat up top, then change primaries, secondaries, etc. to dial it in. Typically you would want a lean mixture at cruise, a little fatter at idle, fatten it up in the midrange and top end. There are common AFR targets based on your cam, carb and motor.

Where I'm running fuel injection, the wideband is tied directly into the Holley 950 Pro computer, and so it is seeing exact AFR results from the last few combustion events, and it will adjust according to targets I put in based on engine load and rpm. I have a laptop and I can watch or datalog realtime AFRs as I tune, then read back the datalog at night and tweak my fuel map to get it perfect.

Check here for the FJO Racing Wideband Controller:

http://www.fjoracing.com/products/WBAFR/

I am running a slightly older version, but it's the same basic box. Looks like you could use this as a datalogger even on a carb-based system, and get a much more accurate tune.

Jim

[Y-TRY]

Dang, now I'm embarassed to have a carb!! LOL!