Windshield channel repair

[70hemicuda]

So Went to have a new windshield put in and when the old one was removed the installer found some rust, so I had him hold off so I can repair the channel. I've delt with rust repair before but nothing I couldn't get access too again if I didn't do a good enough job. There isn't any holes but definitely some pitting all over. I've been going at it with wire wheels and a die grinder and it's cleaning up nicely. More work to do but I'm starting to think about paint. My usual go to for rust is por15 but I've read it isn't ideal for windshield channels so I picked up an epoxy primer, but still need to figure out how to treat the rust. I'm not sure how thin the metal is so I don't want to over grind it and make a hole. Any tips for this?

[dhutton]

I would spot blast it and then apply epoxy. Not a fan of rust conversion products.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/36196976663...Bk9SR76ms5T9YQ

You can get media at northern tool, tractor supply etc.

Don

[70hemicuda]

I've never sand blasted before, but that'll take care of the rust in all the pitting?

[dhutton]

I've never sand blasted before, but that'll take care of the rust in all the pitting?

Yes

[cdrod]

You could get a small set-up from Harbor Freight (only $35) and some fine grade walnut shell blasting media. Should do the trick. Don't use POR15; it's meant to be an easy process applied directly over the rust. After you remove all the rust, there is nothing left for the POR15 to grab onto and it will eventually fail, and probably trap moisture in the process making matters worse.
Epoxy primer is the way to go, and you can get it in spray cans from resto-suppliers like Eastwood.

Hope this helps,

Rodney

[vcho455]

From personal experience I would avoid the walnut shell abrasive. It's mainly for brass prep and gentle cleaning of delicate items. The rust you're wanting to remove will laugh at walnut shells especially the harbor freight variety.

There are numerous websites with great resources to guide to what grit to use to achieve your desired results.

Just be aware that no matter how well you blast and paint the window channel pictured unless you do the same with the underside there is a good chance of more rust developing. It's just the way it is. So decisions have to be made.

Remove the rest of the components around the window to blast then prep and paint?

Or blast, prep and paint the top and apply a rust converter paint under the dash everywhere you can reach?



Or blast, prep and paint the top and apply a corrosion inhibitor like Fluid Film or Krown which are messy and will require reapplication every year or so?

Or blast, prep and paint the top and leave the bottom side to do what it will and deal with that problem when it occurs?

Every project has different goals and limitations so there isn't one answer to the your question.

By the way your particular window frame looks pretty darn good. I would recommend if your planning on using body filler on the existing holes to use a fiberglass or metal based filler that won't absorb moisture like regular body filler will.