67 Mustang LS Swap Prep

[ronin187]

G'day crew,

I've been umming and ahhing about doing an LS swap into my 67 coupe for a few years now and finally have some spare time and funds to start the process.

What I don't have at the moment is a garage to actually do a swap (working on that - either renting a space or buying something), the ability to do any cutting, welding or grinding, so I've come up with the next best thing.

Found an Australian company called "Castlemain Rod Shop" that produce a set of swap mount for XP Fords - the XP being the equivalent of a 65 Falcon (I believe).



I spoke with the Rod Shop and they would neither confirm nor deny that the mounts may or may not fit into the 67, so I took a gamble and ordered a set.



On first check and fitment, they were a little tight, so I linished them and did some very quick measurements to see where they would place the LS block.

Things were looking "okay'.

[ronin187]

Next step was to order a plastic LS block so I could get a better understanding of how things may sit. Things once again started to look "okay".

Did some more rough measurements and head scratching, and started looking for a few other parts that would be necessary if I were to take the next step.

I figured If I could find what I needed for a reasonable price, I'd pick them up if I found them.

Managed to pick up a TCP manual steering rack for $500, a GTO sump for about $150, and some dynacorn sheet metal for a good price.

From there went to Super Cheap Auto (our version of Pep Boys) got an engine stand, and this is where I'm at

[ronin187]

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I feel as though I'm still a very long way off really knowing if this is a viable solution to be able to do a LS swap into a 67 Mustang using off the shelf parts, but at the moment, its "eyeballing" up pretty good.

I think... I mean.. I could be way off here.

Open to all comments and questions lads.

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I'll also quickly point out that I do think Ill need to box in the top of the mounting bracket to add some strength and relocate the crush sleeve in the shock tower engine mount position to give me more strength / rigidity.

[Vimes]

Looks good, but I'd not depend upon the plastic block as a guide for anything other than general fitment. This is hear-say, but I've heard that the measurements aren't quite right. When you get to the point of cutting and welding, get an actual LS block for that part.

I was going to get a plastic LS myself to do what you're doing, but after hearing complaints about the plastic block not being an exact match I instead picked up a high mileage takeout 4.8L for peanuts. Going to use it to make everything fit since I'm also not putting it into a GM product. As it was a running engine, I plan to use it to do all the fitment work as well as power the truck when it's going places like painting or anywhere else I must depend upon others to work on it. When everything's done that requires it to be out of my control I'll put the final engine in.

[ronin187]

I'd not heard that, but I'll measure up the one I've got to cross reference.

To be honest this is still very early stages of looking if its even possible with what I've got. As I said, this is all totally do-able (plenty of forum members have executed this) but at this point in time I don't have the facilities to do any more than benchtop this.

[Vimes]

No worries, when you're ready to do it it'll go. The thing about the plastic blocks not being exact isn't something I measured myself, but heard from two different builders I spoke to about my project. Both recommended against using one. I just took them at their word.

[andrewb70]

Those mounts look pretty good! Just eye balling, it looks like they place the engine about where I have mine in the 67 Cougar, which is exactly the same as your Mustang. Look at my build thread for engine placement comparison.

I would like to see a picture directly from the top, over the engine. Id like to see how the engine is positioned front to back.

Andrew

[ronin187]

Measurements coming today - dislocated my knee last week so haven't been able to get down to the car to cross reference.

@andrewb70 could I ask what angle / degree you have your LS at.

[79 Camaro]

Sorry to hear about your knee.
Just FYI but to the additional prep you will need is having some pretty thick skin when the Ford guys come around when you have your hood open and see the LS. There will be some haters. LOL

[Zachalanche]

Sorry to hear about your knee.
Just FYI but to the additional prep you will need is having some pretty thick skin when the Ford guys come around when you have your hood open and see the LS. There will be some haters. LOL

Thats ok though. when I had a ford in my ford, I would constantly get comments like: "I used to have a Camaro just like that". I guess if it's awesome, everyone just assumes it's a Camaro, so you might as well have an LS in it.

[Vimes]

The answer to anyone whining about having an LS in a Ford - "I wanted to start winning races for a change." It'll either end the discussion or cause a fight.

[ronin187]

Luckily the guys I hang around with are more interested in performance as opposed to what's actually powering the vehicle. When I mentioned it to them it the initial response was "one turbo or two? Two looks way more symmetrical" It's nice to have friends / enablers like that.

So - made up a very basic jig to replicate the exact measurements between the 67 engine mounting points. Still need to do some work on the drivers side, but as it sits its looking very good.

Also, when it comes time the crush sleeves will be cut and welding in the appropriate places.

Going to order in some Holley swap manifolds to check the spacing between them and the shock towers, but I think we'll clear with no issues (running a TCP manual rack, so wont have to content with the steering box)

[andrewb70]

I would like to see a picture directly from the top, over the engine. Id like to see how the engine is positioned front to back.

Andrew

[ronin187]

[ronin187]

Red Passenger Side - 250mm from bolt hole to front of block
Red Drivers Side - 290mm from bolt hole to rear of block

Green Passenger Side - 78mm from bolt hole to cylinder head
Green Drivers Side - 75mm from bolt hole to cylinder head.

[andrewb70]

Thank you so much. I'll compare that to my home made mounts and may swap if the dimensions are close enough. Appreciate the detail!

Andrew

[ronin187]

No, thank you Andrew! Your build was my inspiration for planning the swap in the first place. Must've gone through your thread 5 times now taking notes etc.

Be great to see where the mock up compares to your install.

[ronin187]

Still at this gents - been in the process of buying a new house with an actual garage, so should have something to show by the end of the month!

[ronin187]

So, been away for awhile but its not dead (yet).

Pulled the 302 out and startted refreshing it (have reciepts that the engine was rebuiilt around 2000)

With that out got the mounts in and the plastic block situated.



Its was looking really well situated, but had a chat Andrewb70 and decided that if I could slide it back further then that would be advantagoues

So I re drilled the mounting holes on the plates and now I'm
3 inches from the firewall to the block
[ATTACH=CONFIG]213957

14 inches from the block to the radiator support


2 inches from theblock to the sway bar (its so little lol)


4 inches side to side on the block to the shock towers (note that this is only the block, but have checked with the heads on also)

[ronin187]

And this is how its looking with the mounts in the factory locations (note I will redrill the mounting holes and reposition the crush sleeves to suit)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]213961

So at this stage I *think* this is achievable with off the shelf mounts and minor tweaking (nothing ever really bolts right in anyway).

Please shout out if you think theres anything blindingly obvious that I'm missing or havent thought about - I'm all ears and open to constructive critisim (and butthurt comments about a chevy in a ford yada yada yada for that matter)