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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States

      Beginner With DC TIG

      Hey guys,

      I'm starting to work with the DC Tig weld settings on my Everlast 225 MTS, and hoping to get some feedback. I've watched a ton of youtube videos on both AC and DC Tig welding tips, and think I know what I'm doing wrong, but would love to get feedback from any welders here.

      Here's the first few attempts with a coupon I picked up online somewhere. I cleaned everything with a wire brush and finished with Denatured Alcohol before I started.



      Here's an outside corner joint that I did for a fuel tank recess panel.



      This was after I changed my positioning and slowed down a bit.



      Any and all feedback is appreciated. You won't hurt my feelings. I'm happy to share my weld settings and setup as well if it's needed.

      Thanks,
      Ryan



      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2014
      Posts
      233
      Country Flag: United States
      pic 1: welds are too hot and contaminated
      pic 2: weld is a little cold and contaminated
      pic 3: not bad; pace is a little inconsistent but much cleaner

      the metal appears to have scale and will need more than brushing to clean. Try flap wheel or scotch brite

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks BTmatt! I have been watching a lot of beginner TIG videos and think I need to tweak the settings on my machine and turn the amps down quite a bit.


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    4. #4
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,336
      Country Flag: Canada
      What gas are you using ? .. what cfm ? And what size cup?
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter @raustinss
      On Instagram austinss70

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      100% argon, 7 cup at 20 chp


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2020
      Location
      Northern VA
      Posts
      60
      Country Flag: United States
      What tungsten, color and size, and how are you sharpening in?

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      3/32, light green and sharpening with my bench grinder.


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    8. #8
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,336
      Country Flag: Canada
      Make sure you're sharpening online with the grinding wheel ..I use a drill at work , I personally would up my gas a bit and cup size .. an 8 or 10 with a gas lens not a diffuser and around 30 cfm
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter @raustinss
      On Instagram austinss70

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Thank you all for the advice and tips! I've made some more adjustments and hope to get a little more seat time this week. I was anxious to start welding and I did a lot of things wrong that were all working against me.

      -Like another posted, my metal needed to be cleaner. I bought some new SS wire brushes and one will be only used for aluminum.
      -After watching a bunch of videos, I realized that I didn't have enough post flow for my tungsten, and it was becoming contaminated.
      -I also had some really thick welding gloves, and I wasn't able to get a good feel in my feed hand, so I bought a pair of thinner gloves to give me way more dexterity.
      -Lastly, which I think was my biggest problem. I kept my welder close to my work area so that I could easily make adjustments, however I realized that there was a breeze in the work area with my gloves off! I believe that the fans were blowing some, if not all of my Argon away. I moved the welder farther away, and the welds didn't look contaminated but I dipped the tungsten so welds were doo doo.

      Here are a few more of my "better welds" to critique. I also dabbled with aluminum. I need to lower my Amps overall, because they are way too hot but they do have better consistency I think.



      Never mind the green, that was before I moved the welder and bumped up the post flow time.



      I tried to use up the coupon as much as I could so the last one I tried was this corner joint.



      I'm going to order some more coupons and start fresh with all the changes and see where it takes me.

      I have to say I love that you can weld without sparks flying everywhere! Also, love that you can initiate an arc without having to add filler.


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jul 2019
      Location
      Ohio
      Posts
      313
      Country Flag: United States
      What size filler are you using?

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      For the aluminum I believe it was 3/32", and the mild steel it was .045" or 1/16"


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Posts
      10
      See if you have any local metal suppliers or fabrication shops, they'll usually have remnants of sheets that they'll sell for cheap. They may even have them cut into coupons already, like one of the shops local to me does. You must be spending more on shipping the coupons than the actual coupons.
      Cody
      1971 Monte Carlo

    13. #13
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,336
      Country Flag: Canada
      Try using a black tungsten on aluminum, obviously ac current ..and I recommend using a scotch bright to get the aluminum oxide off the weld area , then clean with acetone
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter @raustinss
      On Instagram austinss70

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Jan 2020
      Location
      Northern VA
      Posts
      60
      Country Flag: United States
      I agree with Raustinss. Scotch bright your aluminum then wipe with acetone. I actually clean all my materials with scotch bright, I have a few dedicated SS toothbrushes I use if I need to get into little nooks and crannies.
      Tungsten stick out and how close you are holding the torch to your material can make a major difference too.
      I personally have not done much mild steel, I mostly do stainless exhaust, and I run 1 amp per thousandth of material thickness. 0.060 exhaust tubing = 60 amps on the welder.
      I need to practice with aluminum more, my aluminum welds look like garbage.
      Don't forget to wipe down your filler rod with a little acetone on a paper towel.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      I've been using denatured alcohol, but I'll pick up some Acetone. I'm hoping to get some more practice this afternoon, and I'll report back. Appreciate all the tips!


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Here's a couple practice beads on mild steel. The first picture was 18ga steel and the second and third are 1/8" coupons.







      This was also 1/8", but some SS coupons I had. I realized afterwards that I should have increased my gas flow and used a bigger cup.



      Any input/feedback will be greatly appreciated. I ordered a gas lens kit with an 8, 10 and 12 cup. Hopefully it will be here by Saturday so I can do some more testing.


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Oh, and I was going to ask. As I was welding the pools looked really clean, but I noticed as I was welding that black flakes of something kept falling into the pool? Where is that contamination coming from? I used a freshly sharpened clean tungsten before I started. I'm running about 15 CFH, and I was running the 6 cup. Is that an indication that it's still not clean enough?


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Nov 2014
      Posts
      233
      Country Flag: United States
      still not clean enough; that is mill scale.

      or switch over to cold rolled sheet

    19. #19
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,336
      Country Flag: Canada
      That stainless is too hot , either less heat or move quicker , questions regarding it ... whats the thickness and filler .? I tig stainless all day lol
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter @raustinss
      On Instagram austinss70

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Jul 2019
      Location
      Ohio
      Posts
      313
      Country Flag: United States
      You should be using stainless filler on your stainless coupons. 309 would be the right choice I believe.

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