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    Results 21 to 34 of 34
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Dec 2013
      Posts
      158
      Country Flag: United States
      Crower, I think, used to have a 5.0 HO Speed Density going that was basically a highlift stock cam w/ a narrower ls3. Worked great. Will try to find it for you

    2. #22
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      San Bernardino, CA
      Posts
      878
      Quote Originally Posted by DualQuadDave View Post
      Crower, I think, used to have a 5.0 HO Speed Density going that was basically a highlift stock cam w/ a narrower ls3. Worked great. Will try to find it for you
      I think you are referring to the Crower 15511 cam

      278/282
      0.468 lift
      114 LSA

      stock is:
      298/282
      0.444 lift
      115 LSA

      Finally got the cam out of this thing! Its a good thing I did. It ended up having a brand new B303 cam! I guess back to stock we go?!?!?!?



      Engine and trickflow intake are so clean!





      Im pretty sure this guys combo of parts made this car run like crap and he just parked it. look how shot these sparkplugs are



      Looks like I will be ordering some new lifters, cam, gaskets, and hardware. The timing set looked stock so I will add a billet roller setup. The push rods and lifters looked re-used. I will measure for pushrod length, buy hardened units and get some new Ford Racing lifters. I will probably leave the heads as is. Debating on painting the (eww) to hide them from the smog tech.


      I will be spraying the stock intake with some single stage PPG silver this weekend. Will probably spray the front accessory brackets with the same silver. I will be replacing the tensioner and idler pulleys, they are so damn noisy and rusty.

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Dec 2013
      Posts
      158
      Country Flag: United States
      No, it wasn't 15511. Specs are different, although that was a good cam. Congrats on the clean motor, looks basically new. Yeah, eBay the B cam. Take my advice and spend a few bucks on good drop in lifters. On a SBF, makes a huge difference in performance. Same with the valve springs. Let me do a little more research on the cam. Standby

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Dec 2013
      Posts
      158
      Country Flag: United States
      Ok, I could not find the grind I remembered from back in the day. Maybe it was a Lunati cam. It was basically a HO cam on roads, thick it was 212/212 and around .490 lift or so. Either way, I found these 2 cams for you. Either should run good, Both have negative overlap to get you through emissions, yet still make decent power. Comp 35-310-8 or Howard's 220238-2. I prefer the Comp.



    5. #25
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      San Bernardino, CA
      Posts
      878
      ah shucks, I ended up getting the Melling stock grind cam. Found a good deal on it through partshawk. Im just going to run that cam with the cobra pedestal rockers, should net .475 lift but not much duration.

      I did order ARP everything: cam bolt, cam retainer, balancer, water pump/timing cover, intake, header, lower intake. I also got new ford racing lifters, comp hardened pushrods in stock length ($39), ford racing intake gaskets (gt40x specific) and a new cloyes true roller timing set. Oh, and I got a 1 piece oil pan gasket and new arp bolts. I am not a fan of the china studs that are in the pan. It was a royal pain to pull the studs out to remove the timing cover.

      Still a no go on the CARB-EO sticker from trickflow. They wrote me an email and stated the sticker was shipped on the 20th. The 20th? what month? August or September? lol what a joke they are.

      A new street burner upper is $300 from summit, in stock, ready to ship. Just not sure if the upper alone will come with a CARB-EO sticker. Im starting to think they dont exist, I have never seen on on the forums or google picture search, then again, Ive never seen a BBK sticker on the web, yet; I own one.

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      San Bernardino, CA
      Posts
      878
      Work on the motor and car has been pretty slow. Kind of a pain to work on it since its marooned at my folks house. I spent the last few weekends finishing renovations on my house.

      Got some good news and some bad news... Trick Flow finally delivered on a Carb-EO sticker for a street burner intake, bad news is the part number listed is for a silver finish intake, not black, different part number. Additionally, all Trick Flow intakes have no part numbers on them at all. Bottom side of the intake has "TFS-SBF-EFI-2U" cast in the bottom. "2U" is a track heat "1U" is a street burner. one would need to do some deep google work and read forums and look at photos to figure that one out. Both intakes are identical to the naked eye. Shall I slap the Trick Flow back on it and take it to the smog shop with my shiny new sticker? here is a link to the executive order pdf, no part number or product description listed. 1995 mustang gt used for testing

      https://arb.parts/Executive-Order/D-369-3




      okay bad news time... I think I need a new timing cover. I was cleaning the gasket surface and noticed some huge globs of RTV stuck to the gasket. After cleaning it up some I found 4 pretty large chunks out of the water pump mounting flange.







      Would you run this timing cover and just goop it with RTV or buy a replacement for $65 from LMR?

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,419
      Country Flag: United States
      I'd say if the only difference between the two intakes is really just the color, I'd slap on that sticker. Then make sure you get a good tune on the car before you go to smog so that it passes without issues.


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE...SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      142
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by DCx View Post
      Would you run this timing cover and just goop it with RTV or buy a replacement for $65 from LMR?
      I'm no expert, but I'd replace it. I just replaced mine with the Ford Performance one because of a minor crack. Unless you have access to a way to build that back up with weld and then have it machined smooth again, I'd spend the $65.
      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      San Bernardino, CA
      Posts
      878
      I passed on the budget timing cover. It has mixed reviews and a dorman replacement got horrible reviews. Summit had a ford racing cover in stock so I just bought that. part number M-6059-A50

      I tried to order a CARB compliant 4 cat system from rockauto and when I tried to check out it said it could not be shipped to California due to not receiving a prop 65 warning. So a California and New York emissions legal part cant ship because they didn't approve a hazardous materials warning label? this is ridiculous. Looks like all the magnaflow 2.5" carb legal systems are out of stock or built to order. I will have to make some phone calls tomorrow. I found one website that said the magnaflow system can no longer be shipped to California?

      I really don't want to buy 4 stand alone cats and cobble it together myself, each cat by themselves is $400.

      since rockauto ditched my exhaust setup I just bought new ac parts, suction/discharge hose, liquid line, receiver dryer, and condenser. I picked up the timing cover and a new Stewart stage 1 water pump and some remflex header gaskets from summit


      Waiting on parts again...

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      San Bernardino, CA
      Posts
      878
      I made a few phone calls and found a Magnaflow CARB legal stainless 4 cat X pipe ready to ship. It was costly but I was able to use a 20% off coupon code. Hott exhaust hooked it up!





      I should have everything to get the car running and rolling soon. I just need to swap the cam and gaskets on the engine and swap out the front bearing retainer and speedo gears on my T5.

    11. #31
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      San Bernardino, CA
      Posts
      878
      I tore into the 5.0 yesterday and changed all the gaskets. I installed the melling cam, timing set, new timing cover, new water pump and oil pan gasket. I used ARP fasteners throughout.


      I did discover the engine has some TRW or speed pro pistons. Do these look forged? part number was 255-98


    12. #32
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Chesapeake, VA
      Posts
      578
      Your piston skirts obviously have some sort of coating, but that isn't necessarily an indication. Can you get a camera in there far enough to look up into the bottom of the piston? Might need a scope for that, unfortunately. A cast piston will probably show you some casting marks on the inside. One of those might be just above the counterweight on the right side of the picture. The inside of the piston should also look a little grainy from the casting process, whereas the inside of a forged piston is much smoother. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ai2pnnTcEg
      Cars are meant to be driven.

      John B

    13. #33
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      San Bernardino, CA
      Posts
      878
      Progress has ben pretty slow between work, winterizing my home and finishing some renovation projects. I did make some progress on the car on Thanksgiving. I completed the following:


      Removed the Radiator and Condenser
      Removed 50% of the blue tape on the wiring
      Installed Steeda double hook clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster
      Cleaned and degreased all the front accessories and brackets
      Cleaned and degreased the bellhousing
      Cleaned and degreased the T5, discovered it has a steel bearing retainer in excellent shape
      Notched and relocated the rear brake line bracket to clear my BMR upper torque box bar
      Installed new braided rear brake hose
      Installed my BMR lower control arms
      Installed the rear axle in the car


      I was hung up on the rear brake line forever. The banjo bolt for the rear hose was wrecked, mushroomed out and needed replaced. Finally got a new one, took forever to ship because of the holiday.


      I want to installed autometer water temp and oil pressure gauges in the dash clock pod, Thinking of drilling and tapping a hole in the trick flow intake for the water temp sensor, I want to retain the stock gauges as well. Does anyone know if an oil pressure extension adaptor will fit without interfering with the AC compressor?


      I will probably order a Maximum Motor Sports steering shaft next since the engine is out of the car. I hear they really improve the steering feel but its $320!











      New rear brakes, brake hoses, shocks and quad shocks will be installed this weekend. Hopefully I can get the valve train and intake manifold installed soon. Now that the radiator is out of the car I will probably install the flywheel and clutch before dropping it back in. Anyone know if the engine can go back in with the headers and trans attached at the same time? man that would save a lot of time and headaches.

    14. #34
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      San Bernardino, CA
      Posts
      878
      Forgot to add this...

      Broke the fuel rail rear crossover hose while removing the injectors. Guess ill just use some 5/16 hose and clamps to fix it. I would step up to an aftermarket set of fuel rails but moving the regulator externally would probably be a red flag and fail the smog visual inspection. Among other bad things, I found extra O rings jammed in the fuel rail.






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