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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Posts
      750
      Country Flag: United States

      Looking at tiny 12v batteries

      Was looking into battery location and wiring options for the trunk when I stumbled onto lithium and AGM small case batteries.

      Probably there are other people on the site using them but I'm specifically looking at something like these:
      https://braillebattery.com/products/...91450141&_ss=r - One of my engineers is using this one right now.
      https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...-oem/atx20-hd/ - Have seen this used also.

      Honestly, if it's enough battery to run my car, it's small enough to mount out of site in my engine bay and save me the headache associated with two long runs of heavy gauge cable through and around my car.

      Any thoughts?

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      SLC
      Posts
      534

      the amp hours are pretty low (on the order of half what an average car battery would have) for both of those batteries which has me curious how long you could crank before you draw down the battery to the point that you aren't cranking fast enough. this also has me curious if they would be able to discharge fast enough to crank a larger engine, or if you would be overheating the battery every time you start your car. Maybe a pair of them would work well.

      For my motorcycle, I have held the antigravity battery and it seems impossibly light compared to the oem lead acid battery. almost like there is nothing inside the case. I plan to buy one when my battery finally dies. So, the possible weight savings is a pretty cool thing, and probably better bang for the buck than something like a fiberglass hood.

      I'm interested to see what you come up with. I also prefer batteries in the engine compartment.
      Zach

      "It so repulsive to see such a beautiful 1970 Mustang, with the other teams engine transplanted into it. I know that car would spit that thing out if it could. Just ruined it, when everything else about the car is so nice." - Bossed

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Posts
      750
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Zachalanche View Post

      the amp hours are pretty low (on the order of half what an average car battery would have) for both of those batteries which has me curious how long you could crank before you draw down the battery to the point that you aren't cranking fast enough. this also has me curious if they would be able to discharge fast enough to crank a larger engine, or if you would be overheating the battery every time you start your car. Maybe a pair of them would work well.

      For my motorcycle, I have held the antigravity battery and it seems impossibly light compared to the oem lead acid battery. almost like there is nothing inside the case. I plan to buy one when my battery finally dies. So, the possible weight savings is a pretty cool thing, and probably better bang for the buck than something like a fiberglass hood.

      I'm interested to see what you come up with. I also prefer batteries in the engine compartment.
      Agree on the amp hour difference. What I haven't really looked at (and I should), is the total electrical load. I'm running a mild BBC with a high torque starter, LED lights everywhere, FI, and a modest (let's say 200W) stereo. For the odd long distance tours I can always pack an emergency cable kit to retrofit a real battery if it comes to that.
      I previously had a trunk mount battery in this car and it's a lot of extra hassle to run cables. I don't have the deep door channels some other cars do. What I do have is tons of space in the engine bay.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Martinez, CA
      Posts
      176
      Country Flag: United States
      I went with a group 26 battery in my Chevelle. It’s considered “mid-size”. It’s saved approx. 18lbs and I was able to make the battery tray smaller to better fit the radiator overflow container.
      I too don’t like batteries in the trunk. It’s a hassle and sizing cables for proper voltage drop adds more weight than you’d save then just getting a lighter battery.

      Worlds Fastest LFX powered 1966 Chevelle, with a 3.6L/217 CI, 4 cam direct injected V6, 6 speed auto, full Hotchkis suspension, 4 wheel Wilwood discs, white w/red interior, cowl hood. 3260 lbs w/full tank. Built for 35 mpg. So far 32.


    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      evansville indiana
      Posts
      61
      Country Flag: United States
      We use a company called EarthX batteries in our Dragweek cars. They are the only approved battery by the FAA to be used in aircraft and is used in all of the cars in the INDY car series. This is the battery I use

      https://earthxbatteries.com/shop/etx1600

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Tinley Park, IL
      Posts
      1,122
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by JustJohn View Post
      For the odd long distance tours I can always pack an emergency cable kit to retrofit a real battery if it comes to that.
      Your battery starts the car, and provides some electrical "cushion" while running, but really the car runs off the alternator unless you have a big stereo. 20 min drive or 8 hours, shouldn't matter.

      Nick ~
      1969 Cutlass

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      31
      Country Flag: United States

      Looking at tiny 12v batteries

      I use the FAA equivalent of the Odyssey PC-680 in my Super Cub… Have also installed the same battery in several 0-470 powered Cessnas.. Has plenty of cranking amps to turn over the bigger engines with big props… Planing on using one in my Diva Roadster kit car..

      Brian

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jan 2022
      Location
      Sacramento, CA.
      Posts
      2
      Country Flag: United States

      "Haven't experienced a dead battery since."

      There is a white Firebird with a big, convoluted tube chassis intermingled with header tubes for the twin turbos which was built by a young kid before he was old enough to drive. Perhaps you have seen him on tv? When talking about his ride, he mentioned that since switching to "Anti-Gravity" batteries, he hasn't experienced a dead battery.

      I am intrigued by the Integrated Starter/Generators that BMW is mounting inside the bellhousing of their ZF 8 HP trans in place of the torque converter and ring gear and flywheel. It is a 20 horsepower motor,and I imagine it comes with a months worth of software and modules, along with a Li 48v battery, as well as a 12v battery. It includes the stop/start feature, but I don't know if there is any more involved than the stop/start. I am planning on getting a ZF8HP Trans swapped into my ride now that they are being supported w/ stand alone TCM's. Do any of you engineers happen to know if I could put one behind my LT1 and delete the accessory drive at the front of the engine, which the aftermarket doesn't seem to have addressed to well ? I think the turbo crowd could benefit from having that area behind the radiator free to place the air to air, and I wonder if the 48v Li battery could consist of 12v Li batteries in series?

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Posts
      750
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Mr Nick View Post
      Your battery starts the car, and provides some electrical "cushion" while running, but really the car runs off the alternator unless you have a big stereo. 20 min drive or 8 hours, shouldn't matter.
      True but these are 50+ year old cars and multi day tours sometimes have limited parts availability. It's just a road trip contingency plan.

      It's looking like I can manage with a 3" wide battery and keep it up front.