Tru Turn with Hooker Blackheart long tubes

[streetk14]

Hey guys,
looking to see if anyone has recent experience with this. I’m trying to figure out whether the current Tru Turn system from ridetech will work with the latest Blackheart long tube headers.

I have the complete Holley/Hooker swap kit (engine mount adaptors, trans crossmember, headers) for my LS427/magnum swap. Also have the ridetech coil overs and tall spindles going in. While I haven’t test fitted anything yet, I’m guessing I’ll have steering arm issues without the Tru Turn. So now I’m trying to figure out if the Tru Turn will work with the headers I have. I’d really prefer to keep the long tubes, as opposed to swapping them for mid-lengths or whatever.

Ive reached out to Josh @ Ridetech, but haven’t heard back. I never get a response from the “sales@ridetech” email address, so I’m not sure what’s up with that. Most of the threads on this I’ve found are older, and both Holley and Ridetech have updated their designs over the years. Makes it hard to figure out.

thanks

[Motobrewmaster]

I think you will have to fit everything and run it through the full travel to completely know. Every combination is slightly different.

I have the older bolt on Tru-Turn set up and it is tight, but fits on my setup. Here is my combination:
Frame - stock 69
Engine - LS with a modified GM dry sump setup (LSA block), Speedtech dry sump pan. Black Hook 1 7/8" long tube headershttps://www.holley.com/products/exha.../70101508-1HKR

I am also using the Holley/Blackhook swap setup and everything fits fine.

Stock type steering box (rear steer)

The most difficult part for me was routing the dry sump lines. Once I figured that out everything was ok.

[streetk14]

That’s a bummer, but that’s how it goes sometimes. Maybe I’ll get a response from ridetech one of these days. I don’t know what’s up with their customer service. I’m guessing my stock steering arms won’t clear the wheels without the Tru Turn. Didn’t realize this was an issue when I bought the spindles/LCAs/coil overs.

[rallystyle]

From what I have read the headers were changed to work with the 1gen bolt on of tru turn setup, when the tru turn was changed to 2gen aka new drag link. The long tube headers hit now.

[streetk14]

Yes, that seems to be the case from the reading I’ve done. Todd (Toddoky) told me he didn’t think Holley ever changed the headers to work with the newer forged center link. He was one of the engineers that worked on the Holley swap kit. I’ll see what ridetech says if I can ever get a response from them.

So next question: Anyone know if the Blackheart mid length headers work with the newer Tru Turn?

[Bad94]

I ran these headers on my old set up, Stock sub frame with Track 1 stuff. And they fit. They are for sale too

[streetk14]

I ran these headers on my old set up, Stock sub frame with Track 1 stuff. And they fit. They are for sale too

What headers are those, and did they work with the Tru Turn with the forged center link?

[KnightmareZ]

Ultimate longtubes will work with the 2nd ridetech design.

[streetk14]

Ultimate longtubes will work with the 2nd ridetech design.

I’ve heard of the brand, but have no experience with them. You’re saying they should work with the Holley swap system AND newer center link design? Any info is appreciated.

Edit: with a little searching I see ridetech sells these and mentions Tru Turn compatibility. If they ever decide to get back to me, maybe I can confirm with them.

[Bad94]

What headers are those, and did they work with the Tru Turn with the forged center link?

Yes they did. They were the Hooker super comp ones, before the BlackHeart label.

[plick1221]

I am running LS3 with all Holley swap parts, motor mounts, trans X-member, 302-3 oil pan, Hooker 1-7/8 Long Tubes and all ridetech w/ new forged link. Everything cleared fine with the bolt on previous model, but mid-build we upgraded to teh new link when it came out.

The inner tie rod end will hit #1 cylinder header pipe when turning to full lock. Since I found this out after everything was already installed, torqued, etc.... I choose the simple method..... Heat it up red hot, piece of pipe and a nice hammer will get a nice dimple to allow clearance.

One day I will get around to pulling the header off and cutting the section, moving and rewelding, but honestly the only one who knows about the dimple is me since it underneath and not seen.

[streetk14]

I am running LS3 with all Holley swap parts, motor mounts, trans X-member, 302-3 oil pan, Hooker 1-7/8 Long Tubes and all ridetech w/ new forged link. Everything cleared fine with the bolt on previous model, but mid-build we upgraded to teh new link when it came out.

The inner tie rod end will hit #1 cylinder header pipe when turning to full lock. Since I found this out after everything was already installed, torqued, etc.... I choose the simple method..... Heat it up red hot, piece of pipe and a nice hammer will get a nice dimple to allow clearance.

One day I will get around to pulling the header off and cutting the section, moving and rewelding, but honestly the only one who knows about the dimple is me since it underneath and not seen.

Thanks for the info. Are those the clamshell Hooker mounts and Blackheart headers (part number 70101308-RHKR) ? No issues with the passenger side header?

[RLYSPRT]

I’ve heard of the brand, but have no experience with them. You’re saying they should work with the Holley swap system AND newer center link design? Any info is appreciated.

Edit: with a little searching I see ridetech sells these and mentions Tru Turn compatibility. If they ever decide to get back to me, maybe I can confirm with them.

Hi. I just installed the ridetech truturn on my 1969 Camaro with an LS3 and long tube Ultimate Headers. The truturn clears the headers.

Tyler

[jorgezee1]

Here is my combo, not sure it will help you but, 1969 Camaro stock subrame, Turn One Steering box, ridetech coilovers, Spindle and TruTurn (v2), LS3/T56, Speedtech/ATS engine mounts, engine stands, transmission mount and Speedtech/Stainless Works header, MAST Oil Pan and Holley Front High Mount ACC drive. Everything clears. No contact from the headers to anything. Closes part is the Idler Arm with about 3/8" clearance. Without the outer tie-rods connected I hit the pan on both sides with the drag link. With the outer tie-rods connected I have about 1/4-3/8" before contacting the pan on either side.

[streetk14]

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I have a set of Ultimate headers on the way. Engine and Tru Turn system are all installed. So far I’m pleasantly surprised with clearances with my combo (Mast pan, Holley clamshell mounts/crossmember). Other than the shifter opening, no tunnel surgery was needed to fit the T56 Magnum. Guess I’ll see how it goes once the headers show up.

[Somethingwilson]

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I have a set of Ultimate headers on the way. Engine and Tru Turn system are all installed. So far I’m pleasantly surprised with clearances with my combo (Mast pan, Holley clamshell mounts/crossmember). Other than the shifter opening, no tunnel surgery was needed to fit the T56 Magnum. Guess I’ll see how it goes once the headers show up.

I have the exact same setup and it’s time for headers… how did those Ultimate headers work out?

[streetk14]

I have the exact same setup and it’s time for headers… how did those Ultimate headers work out?

I ended up having an issue with one of the header tubes hitting my steering box. I’m not sure if this was because I have a Delphi 600 series box or if Ultimate Headers sent me the wrong header.

I was told the first set of headers they sent me was for LSX heads that have an extra head bolt that requires more header clearance; moving the tube in question closer to the steering box. This was their fault as I was clear about what engine setup and mounts I had. They sent me another set that was supposed to be correct, but I saw almost no difference in the tube placement. At that point, I just dimpled that tube. I didn’t want to, but I was tired of being held up on the project.

All that said, I’m still pretty happy with the headers. They’re very high quality and U.S.A. made for about the same price as the made in China Hookers. The low profile double ball socket type adaptors they use are pretty nice, though I had to use some of that high temp exhaust RTV sealer to get them to completely seal. I had the same issue with a set of Kooks headers on my 6th Gen ZL1. If I did it again I might have had them V-banded, but I believe that would have hurt ground clearance.

I actually have the other (identical from what I can tell) set of headers that I’d consider selling. They never asked for them back, and my plan was to eventually have a local shop cut out the area I dented on the set on my car, and use these for spare material to do it. Since you really can’t see the area I dented, I’m not sure I’ll ever do it.

[Somethingwilson]

I ended up having an issue with one of the header tubes hitting my steering box. I’m not sure if this was because I have a Delphi 600 series box or if Ultimate Headers sent me the wrong header.

I was told the first set of headers they sent me was for LSX heads that have an extra head bolt that requires more header clearance; moving the tube in question closer to the steering box. This was their fault as I was clear about what engine setup and mounts I had. They sent me another set that was supposed to be correct, but I saw almost no difference in the tube placement. At that point, I just dimpled that tube. I didn’t want to, but I was tired of being held up on the project.

All that said, I’m still pretty happy with the headers. They’re very high quality and U.S.A. made for about the same price as the made in China Hookers. The low profile double ball socket type adaptors they use are pretty nice, though I had to use some of that high temp exhaust RTV sealer to get them to completely seal. I had the same issue with a set of Kooks headers on my 6th Gen ZL1. If I did it again I might have had them V-banded, but I believe that would have hurt ground clearance.

I actually have the other (identical from what I can tell) set of headers that I’d consider selling. They never asked for them back, and my plan was to eventually have a local shop cut out the area I dented on the set on my car, and use these for spare material to do it. Since you really can’t see the area I dented, I’m not sure I’ll ever do it.

definitely interested. What’s the best way to direct message? Facebook messenger?

[streetk14]

definitely interested. What’s the best way to direct message? Facebook messenger?

Sorry, I just realized I only have an extra driver side header. I was thinking I had a set, as this was a while back and I stuffed the box up in storage out in the garage.

Still, I’d give Ultimate Headers my business again. Just make sure you tell them exactly what engine mount adaptors you have, and you can even mention my issues with the steering box. I’m sure they’ll remember me.

[Somethingwilson]

Sorry, I just realized I only have an extra driver side header. I was thinking I had a set, as this was a while back and I stuffed the box up in storage out in the garage.

Still, I’d give Ultimate Headers my business again. Just make sure you tell them exactly what engine mount adaptors you have, and you can even mention my issues with the steering box. I’m sure they’ll remember me.

Thank you! Last thing, no problem with aligning with hooker crossmember?