275's on '65 Malibu?

[y5e06]

I'm looking at a local car, a 65 malibu, that really has my attention. My one big hang up is I like to fit a moderately wide tire. (not wide like some of you crazy guys here...) Specifically a 275/40/17 or 275/35/18. Hopefully on a 9.5 but maybe a 9" wide wheel.

all my reading indicates the '65 malibu wheel wells are pretty small. However, all the details are from malibu/chevelle enthusiast forums that have no interest in cutting up their cars.
Other than the "how much do you want to spend" response, how feasible is it to fit 275's square on a '65 'bu?
For the back: I hear some 275's may fit very tight. I may expect trimming and rolling fender lips and perhaps mini tubs. I don't know if the frame itself is a clearance problem.
for the front: I don't know. most seem to be running 225's or 245s max. for mashing in the 275s it depends on where the tires rub or have clearance issues. If it is all sheet metal, especially the inner fender well, then i can fabricate partial inner 'tubs' for clearance. But if the outter fender itself is the problem given ample inner fender clearance then flaring or stretching the fender may be out of the question for me.

Any input from those familiar with these cars and where the tight spots are and how to address them?



18's might be good if they clear the tie rod and allow more backspace.

[y5e06]

oh, the plan would include aftermarket front upper control arms, 1" taller lower ball joints, maybe 0.5" taller upper joints, ~1-1.5" overall lowering, stiffer spring rates, about -0.75deg static camber.

[65 drop top]

On my 65 convertible I have 235/35r19 on 8” wheels in the front and 255/35r20 on 8.5” wheels in the rear. I had 235 and 255 17’s previously, so the over all tire dimensions stayed about the same. The car is lowered several inches all around. I think it would be hard to fit anything much wider in the front. The fronts would hit the sway bar when turning if I went wider and if I pushed them out any further they would hit the fenders, especially when turning. Im not sure if the convertible rear wheel wells are the same as a hard top, but I do have a little room to spare in the rear. A 265 would be easy if my backspace was adjusted inward. A 275 might fit but would be pushing it on stock wheel wells. Also keep in mind, because of the very low wheel opening on the quarter panel it is very difficult to get the wheels on and off.

[68Formula]

Also keep in mind, because of the very low wheel opening on the quarter panel it is very difficult to get the wheels on and off.

That's a great point! Not usually a factor one has to think about on other models.

[y5e06]

The sway bar is an important point. I did come across a thread where 'wider tires' were stated with no real specifics and they used the detroit speed splined swaybar set up to clear for the tires. (like purpose built road race or roundy round car swaybar setup).

yeah, too wide in the back with those fender 'skirts' and it will be trouble if getting a flat on the side of the road and can't get the wheel off....

[Hotwire]

275s will fit in the rear but it will be tight to the point you might not be happy with it. The frame and inner wheel well are flush, only way to mini tub and make it work is notching the frame too, or you could stretch the outer fenders.. ABC Performance sells all kinds of frame mods for these cars. I have not yet purchased any but a well known autocrosser named Aaron Oberle is the poster child for this company. He's a great guy and can drive like you can't imagine. I would pay admission to ride with him again, completely mind blowing.

http://www.abcperformance.net/store/...c3qaj4c257vsm3

I'm running 255/40/17 all the way around on my 64 w/ 2002 Camaro SS wheels *17x9* and 1.25" hubcentric spacers. With increased caster and the spacers my tires hit the rear wheel wells when turning tight, also have rub marks on my sway bars. (You have the balljoint setup reversed btw) Up front I have SPC fully adjustable uppers, ebay tubular lowers, proforged 0.9" taller upper balljoints and 0.5" lower. Hellwig 1 5/16" front bar, S10 ZQ8 quick ratio steering box, cut moog springs, 2" CPP dropped spindles. Rear I have cut moog springs, speedway motors adjustable uppers, BMR lowers. It's a fun mismash of parts that works pretty well for the $ invested.

This is how my car sits now:



I drive this turd like it owes me money and always am smiling at the end.



One thing to keep in mind, if you run a short tire and short gear, the driveshaft will suffer. My tires are 25" tall, have 3.73 gears and I have reached the critical speed of my driveshaft almost looping it. The driveshaft is really long and therefore has a low resonant frequency (critical speed). Right now I'm running a 3.5" aluminum driveshaft from a police spec crown vic, seems to be surviving.

[y5e06]

Hi Jeff, thanks for the details. your car is setup almost exactly as I was thinking.
Yes, I had the ball joint values reversed. I have much the same setup already on my '87 Monte; 0.9" upper, 0.5" lowers, cut Moog springs. dirt track front upper arms, '70 chevelle Koni shocks, etc. and was thinking the same flavor of build for the more-door Malibu.
I also have a set of crusty 10-spoke SS wheels laying around too so your car gives me the perfect visual. My notes show the 17x9 10 spoke has 50mm offset & 7.0" backspace. with your 1.25" adaptors that indicates a 5.75" backspace is good setup w/ supporting suspension changes.

for the CPP drop spindles, did they take away much clearance of the inner rim vs the tie rod & steering arm?

[Hotwire]

Not really, running the stock arm and didn't have any issues running a set of 14"s that came on the car and now the 10 spokes. Only thing I've wanted to do different is to get the wheels powdercoated a bronze/gold or darker gun metal color if I don't end up getting different wheels in the future. Also running CPP billet hubs and 2000 Camaro discs all the way around.

[65 drop top]

It would be impossible for me to change a rear tire on the side of the road. I have to jack up the rear of the car and put jack stands under the frame. I have to jack it up so that the quarter panel opening is higher than the tire is tall. Then I have to disconnect the coilovers and let the axle droop. Then I can remove the wheels. It’s a total pain. AAA and a flatbed is the plan to get home if I get a flat.

[65 drop top]

I just went out and looked at the rear wheel wells. Hotwire is correct, the wheel tub is flush with the frame rail. So I edited my original post so I don’t confuse anyone. Thinking about it, I must have mixed up the Chevelle with my 55 Chevy. Those have approx 2” between the tubs and frame wells.

[68Formula]

It would be impossible for me to change a rear tire on the side of the road. I have to jack up the rear of the car and put jack stands under the frame. I have to jack it up so that the quarter panel opening is higher than the tire is tall. Then I have to disconnect the coilovers and let the axle droop. Then I can remove the wheels. It’s a total pain. AAA and a flatbed is the plan to get home if I get a flat.

Beautiful color. What is it?

[65 drop top]

Beautiful color. What is it?

Thank you! It’s Porsche Aqua Blue Metallic