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    Results 1 to 6 of 6
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2021
      Posts
      2

      advise on 67 camaro build

      Hey guys, i am new to the site and would really appreciate some input. i am new to car building but have the desire to learn and build cars. Since i am new, i thought i would ask for some advice from guys that know.

      i have a 67 camaro that i have been working on for a while. i have decided i want to go more pro touring with it vs original. i have stripped the car down to bare metal and epoxy primed it, (few years ago), i fixed all metal that needed work, and skim coated all welds with evercoat fiberglass, sanded to blend, and coated over that with thin layer of rage extreme. i did all of this while it sat on my rotissiery, gaps are decent but need some tweaking here and there. i decided on LS3 with T56 magnum 6 speed, so i ordered that and installed it into my subframe. The subframe was stripped and powder coated and reassembled using new cpp pro touring kit. i swapped it over to disc brakes also while working on the subframe. So i installed engine and tranny into subframe using the kit from Holley and everything worked as designed. I also installed headers from holley and have fuel tank/pump, fueline, exhaust, radiator, fans, all sitting there ready to install. i have vintage air kit sitting also waiting to install. I then installed the subframe with engine/tranny into the car and installed my rebuilt 12 bolt rear end to get the car rolling. I thought i should do this before going any farther with body work, letting the car sit on its wheels, and let it flex or relax so to speak.



      First question is how far do i go with it before stripping it back down to paint, painter does not want engine/tranny in it while he paints it. Do i install everything and get it running and driving. i like this idea but seems like a lot of work to strip it later for paint. i don't mind the work as much as the time it takes, as i only work on it few nights here and there, as i am pretty busy usually. As i mentioned, i am new so i thought i would ask.

      i was also told probably not to fire that new engine until i am ready for break in. its better to wait to fire it rather than fire it now and let it sit a year or so until the car is done.

      the things i know i need to order yet are steering column/wheel, full interior, bumpers (or rechrome originals), i am sure i am missing some things but this gives you an idea where i am with the build.

      i greatly appreciate any input or advice you guys can give me.
      Matt


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Location
      Huntington Beach CA
      Posts
      7
      Country Flag: Brazil
      Matt,

      I would install and mock up as much as you have, at a minimum engine trans suspension a/c.... make sure everything clears and mounts easy and how you like. Its a lot easier to modify anything now while its still in primer and you don't have to worry about scratching, drilling, or welding a painted surface. You'll get a better idea of what it all looks like together so if you want to change any parts, or figure out where you want to run all the wiring and tubing.I wouldn't worry to much about getting the car running and driving until its back from paint.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2021
      Posts
      2
      Thanks for the reply. i have it rolling now and love the stance/look so am not going to change much. Engine/tranny installed with good clearance, so feel i am good there also. I will mount vintage air unit and figure out where i am running lines next. i will probably not mount ecm until it is back from paint. i don't see any issues there unless someone else says otherwise. Headers cleared nicely and i feel exhaust will be ok since holley supplied that also. I don't see the fuel system being much of an issue either.

      Please advise if i'm not thinking of something. Thanks
      Matt

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2017
      Posts
      825
      Country Flag: United States
      I second Big O. Mock everything you can now. After paint drilling and grinding sucks. Even when replacing original fitted parts after painting sometimes you have to buff the holes with a die grinder to get bolts in and such. Much more so if it hasn't already been fitted. This is more so true with aftermarket parts and sheet metals such as your vintage Air or anything else you would add that was not originally on the car. Definitely re-chrome your original bumpers rather than getting repops. Fitment of repop sheet metal bumpers brackets etc all suck. Ask me how I know.
      Great to have you here on the site good luck with your build.
      The guys and people in general on this forum are an invaluable set of experience tools to help.
      What a wonderful community the car building guys are. I just got back from LS Fest East.
      Mine is Jason's 67 Pro touring Camaro build thread
      Tankmasterj
      Jason.
      TANKMASTERJ
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...touring-Camaro
      Jasons Toys
      67 Camaro White Lightning LMR LS7 powered, Speed tech Front and Rear.
      2023 Rapid Blue ZL1 the Blue Devil
      2000 HD Softail
      1989 CBR Hurricane anniversary edition

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Rockford Illinois
      Posts
      3,948
      Country Flag: United States

      Do it all

      Put it together and drive it or at least get all the stuff on it where it goes and start it up , then take it apart and paint it .
      You will then get to have the perfect car after paint that you won't have to take the new stuff off and fix it . You can leave window trim off and interior pieces off and still drive.
      I remember so many things I thought would be perfect only to have to take it off for some other reason that was not expected. new parts have problems and you never know which ones until you try to get them to work. It sucks to have to remount something or rework something for clearance or adjustments.

      It seems like a lot of extra work , but stripping a car down for paint goes real quick with the right intentions.

      If the painter can't paint the car with the engine in it you should ask why? paint the firewall now and then it wont matter except for masking.

      Good luck
      May The Horsepower Be With You !!!

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2021
      Location
      Portland, OR
      Posts
      34
      Country Flag: United States
      I agree with Jim, I mocked up everything on my 72 build as far as I thought I needed to. I built the frame out of 2 other trucks and converted the rear 2wd spring hangers and crossmembers to the 4wd ones that happened to also need shorter springs. I got every measurement right front to back for all 4 pieces of the rails, cross members, spring hangers, and then welded up everything I didn't need, EXCEPT! my rear end is now 1.5" to far back in the wheel wells. I hate it and it has been one of the main reasons I've stalled the completion of that project for years.

      After 4 painters, 2 complete bodies, numerous other issues dealing with body/paint guys and so many off the wall things. Once I finally got it back from paint I was excited to finally start putting everything on it I had on the shelves on it.
      Once I got to a huge issue with frame location I just sat there trying to figure out how to move the rear end 1.5" with a fully candy red powder coated chassis, springs, and rear end. The only way to fix it right is to tear it all back down, relocate the brackets, weld up the now unused holes and re-powder coat the chassis that will most likely not match all the springs and axle colors.

      Fuel filler, I had a plan to run it inside the drivers wheel well. After paint I did it and there isn't enough down hill slope to the filler neck. Now I have a 3" cut out in the fully powder coated silver bed support that attracts my attention every time I look at it. I wish I would have hidden it behind the drivers tail light, or just grafted in a filler in the bed side. Instead I ended up doing exactly what I didn't want to do and add a filler to the finished bed floor.

      Electric fuel pump I mocked up, mounted inside the frame with rubber isolators through the DS rail ended up not working out. So there too I have 3 holes not welded up while the rest of the rail is smooth. Granted it's under the cab but still, an avoidable mistake if I would have taken it all the way to driving before blowing it apart for paint.

      So, my input, at the very least mock up everything you can even if you think you don't need to right now.

      The 55 project I'm helping my dad on. I keep telling him to stop worrying about the paint until you feel like you can hop in it and drive it to NY (we live in Oregon). Then we blow it apart with everything we know fits and works well. It's easy to take apart and put something back together. Modifying after finishes will really kill the mood.

      Here's my other project I got 90% done and it pretty much is still in that condition with a cover over it in my shop. I keep talking about working on it again but I ended up buying a 67 Camaro I'm tinkering on for the moment.
      https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=299946





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