Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register



    Results 1 to 11 of 11
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      San Bernardino, CA
      Posts
      857

      Ready to spray base coast shot like stringy cobwebs!

      ** SORRY FOR THE TYPO IN THE TITLE**

      Went to my local paint store today with my dad and we picked out a solid orange color for his 67 mustang fast back. The paint store told me the base would come ready to spray, so I took their word for it. I came home and took the one panel ready for the car and gave it a final wet sand in 600. When I attempted to spray the base coat it shot out like silly string and cob webs. It was flying all over the place and what landed on the panel looked like wall texture!

      I first attempted to spray the base with my Fuji Q5 turbine with a 0.8 needle. Horrible results! I hurried and cleaned the gun and changed to a 1.0 needled. No change. I then switched to a 1.4 purple harbor freight HVLP gun set at about 26psi. Still spitting and stringy. I added some urethane primer reducer to the base and removed the strainer from my PPS cup and I barely got a horrible orange peeled surface. I have never experienced this at all! I have shot SPI epoxy, Polyester primer and urethane high build with both my Fuji turbine and harbor freight HVLP guns with great success.

      I ended up lightly sanding the base with 600 grit then using the same harbor freight HVLP at about 30psi and hammered on a glass like coating of clear. Here is the kicker. Every single substance I have ever sprayed well I mixed myself with reducer and hardener. The base was the only ready to spray product I've ever used.

      Did the paint store forget to mix or reduce my base? I only bought a pint of color and used about 12oz of it messing around. Here are the results of todays fiasco.

      Mind you, this is my fist time ever spraying clear as well.




    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Posts
      1,822
      maybe its the mix ? specifally the hardner or activator ratios ? (PS i have not expertise in this area)
      From a place you will not see comes a sound you will not hear....

      67 Camaro In progress

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...-Tap-67-camaro

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      3,885
      Country Flag: United States
      I don’t know what’s going on with your base but you should always add 1 ounce of your clear activator to each sprayable quart of base. This will give you much improved adhesion because it will cross link with your clear.

      What base did you buy? The datasheet should be available online. I’ve never actually seen a ready to spray base, they all need reducer that I have seen.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      3,885
      Country Flag: United States
      Don’t rely on the paint jobber to reduce your base. Who knows what crap reducer he will use. Buy it unreduced and reduce with a quality reducer with the correct temperature. SPI reducer is one of the best and affordable. Don’t listen to those who tell you that you need to use the matching reducer. It’s marketing hype…

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Posts
      26
      Post up what product(s) you used. Cobwebbing sounds like underthinned lacquer paint.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      San Bernardino, CA
      Posts
      857
      Checked out the panel the next day. What a shame. The clear went on really smoothly over an orange peel like finish. You can also tell the paint didnt make good coverage at all. The color also looks like school bus yellow in the light. definitely not going to stick with this color.

      Im starting to think the Jobber gave me lacquer paint. The first time I sprayed the panel with base it was really shiny and never flashed off to a dull matte finish. It was also super duper hard to wet sand with 600.

      This is the junk I paid nearly $40 for the pint





      Really sucks because the paint store staff are really cool people and have helped me with all my consumables.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      3,885
      Country Flag: United States
      Get with Chad at autorodtechnologies.com to get some Wanda or Motobase basecoat. Use it with SPI clear.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Posts
      26
      I've never seen that paint before, but a little digging says that it's intended for industrial usage. More along the lines of painting trailers and the sort. Mixing ratio is 3 parts paint, 1 part activator, & 15-33% reducer. It also states it could be Alkyd, epoxy or polyurethane chemistry.

      I can't see how they could sell that as ready to spray with an activator. Once activated, the paint usually only has a certain amount of time before it hardens even in the can, sometimes only a few hours.

      Basically, that paint isn't intended for automotive use and likely isn't intended to be cleared.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      San Bernardino, CA
      Posts
      857
      I went back to the shop today and they were really apologetic about the bad paint experience. While I was there we mixed up a slightly tweaked V2 hemi orange without as much red tone and a few drops of pearl. I asked for a better paint line. We went with Automotive Art and I made sure to get the slow reducer. It mixes 1:1, I got 8oz paint and 8oz slow reducer. I had a spare repo 67 mustang rear valance laying around so I scuffed it up with 320 and red scotch pad and laid a few coats of urethane primer on it. I will wet sand it in 400 and 600 and spray my new color using my Fuji Q5 turbine with a 0.8mm tip.

      I hope this turbine is up to the task.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      3,885
      Country Flag: United States
      I haven’t used a turbine but .8mm sounds like a very small tip. I use 1.3 to shoot base.

      Curious why you are buying such small amounts of base. Are you not painting a whole car? Are you not worried about color variations?

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      San Bernardino, CA
      Posts
      857
      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      I havenít used a turbine but .8mm sounds like a very small tip. I use 1.3 to shoot base.

      Curious why you are buying such small amounts of base. Are you not painting a whole car? Are you not worried about color variations?

      Don

      We are just picking a color for the car at the moment and I am trying out my Fuji Q5 Turbine. I bought it specifically to use for base and clear.



      My dads mustang was a custom ordered orange that not even Marti auto can decode. So we are left with no options but to choose our own color. I think we nailed it. I will post a separate thread highlighting my Q5. Let me tell ya, the 0.8mm tip flat nailed a show quality paint job. So slick I wouldn't cut or buff it at all.

      and it was my FIRST time ever spraying base coat and clear with it!