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    Results 1 to 18 of 18
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
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      Alamo, CA USA
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      Harmonic balancer removal and installation...

      I got my Wegner WAK033 accessory drive kit this week and I started getting ready for the installation today. One of the first couple of steps is removing the stock harmonic balancer and installing the new one. In order to do this, I need to remove it with GM tool J-41816 and install the new one with GM tool J-41665. I don't have these tools and doing a quick search online shows the aren't super readily available and quite expensive. Are these two tools, the puller and installer, the specialty type that I can run down to my local auto parts store to rent or do I need to buy them? Are the generic versions of the tools just as good or am I looking for something specific to GM or the LS engine? I'm not looking to spend a ton of money on something I'm going to just use once and not touch again, so can Harbor Freight help me here?

      Additionally, it's saying I need to replace the balancer bolt. Does anyone happen to have a part number for that? Engine is the LS427/570. I'm guessing it'd be the same bolt used on an LS7, but I'm not 100% certain on that.

      Thanks.

      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      3,804
      Country Flag: United States
      You can find used GM tools and knockoffs on eBay.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
      Location
      Alamo, CA USA
      Posts
      221
      Country Flag: United States
      Additional question. How do I remove the crankshaft bolt properly? I’m guessing I don’t just impact the thing off. How do I get it off without cranking over the engine? I’m guessing I’ll have the same problem with installation, so how about that as well?
      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2011
      Location
      new york
      Posts
      296
      Country Flag: United States
      This is the one I have and I really like it.

      https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AI...b_b_asin_title

      Also, you can use an impact on the crank bolt

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2015
      Posts
      19
      Country Flag: United States
      I have that same green OEM puller. Iíve seen it advertised as a Chrysler tool but it works great on LS engines. As far as removing the bolt, I canít recall who makes it, but I have a flywheel lock that bolts in place of the starter and prevents the engine from turning by engaging in a few of the flywheel teeth. Itís great for something like what youíre doing. Iíve seen folks use a pry bar or wood, but having the right tool for the job is nice.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
      Location
      Alamo, CA USA
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      221
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      Quote Originally Posted by 1985olds View Post
      This is the one I have and I really like it.

      https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AI...b_b_asin_title

      Also, you can use an impact on the crank bolt
      Quote Originally Posted by NorCal-SS View Post
      I have that same green OEM puller. I’ve seen it advertised as a Chrysler tool but it works great on LS engines. As far as removing the bolt, I can’t recall who makes it, but I have a flywheel lock that bolts in place of the starter and prevents the engine from turning by engaging in a few of the flywheel teeth. It’s great for something like what you’re doing. I’ve seen folks use a pry bar or wood, but having the right tool for the job is nice.
      Ok. I'll check out that puller.

      With the crank bolt, I wouldn't eve know how you'd use wood or a pry bar for that. I do have a flywheel wrench, but that would only work if I had the bell housing off again, which I'd rather not do just for this. I will look into the flywheel lock that fits where the starter does. That sounds real helpful. If anyone can point me to one that will work, that would be much appreciated.
      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Apr 2015
      Posts
      19
      Country Flag: United States
      Iím not sure how to post a link but if you search ďLS flywheel toolĒ on eBay youíll have a lot to choose from.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
      Location
      Alamo, CA USA
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      221
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      Quote Originally Posted by NorCal-SS View Post
      Iím not sure how to post a link but if you search ďLS flywheel toolĒ on eBay youíll have a lot to choose from.
      That helped a lot. Picked up a cheap one from Amazon. Thank you.
      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      1,309
      Country Flag: Canada
      Quote Originally Posted by roguegeek View Post
      Additional question. How do I remove the crankshaft bolt properly? Iím guessing I donít just impact the thing off. How do I get it off without cranking over the engine? Iím guessing Iíll have the same problem with installation, so how about that as well?
      Hit it with an impact in reverse.

      If you have a flywheel on the engine, either have someone go under the car with a pry bar and lock the tooth against the bell housing or buy a LS flex plate/fly wheel locking tool. They bolt to the start location.
      Matt
      72 Chevelle 370ci LS Turbo. Speedtech equipped.
      Instagram: Cst_koon

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Eastern Virginia
      Posts
      3,931
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      Quote Originally Posted by 1985olds View Post
      This is the one I have and I really like it.

      https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AI...b_b_asin_title

      Also, you can use an impact on the crank bolt
      I have this one too (or one similar design).

      ARP replacement bolt: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...MaAs3-EALw_wcB

      GM bolt: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/N...7840?rrec=true
      Scot
      86 Monte SS
      Soon to get a near 500hp LS2/T56
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...getting-an-LS2

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,460
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      As stated the Chrysler tool is great for the harmonic balancer. You can rent it from AutoZone as I have done a few times.
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LS2/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, SC&C, ATS, Street Rod Designs, Speedhut, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Location
      Summerfield, NC
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm using a MAF flywheel holder off ebay. Bought my buddy one too they work so well, worth their weight in gold. They also sell crank pulley installers. I used threaded rod and nuts I purchased from my local Automotive Fasteners.

      https://www.ebay.com/str/mafracingperformancetools

      I also have the amazon crank pulley puller, it's compact and works great! Had a hybrid tahoe that had the electronic's cooling pump mounted right in front of the crank, that puller acted like it was made for that application. Definitely worth it to keep one on hand.
      *Jeff*
      Project Salty - 1964 4 door Malibu, beaten, neglected, red headed foster child
      Cammed LQ4 / T56 Swap Project Thread <-click to read! 😁

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
      Location
      Alamo, CA USA
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      221
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      Quote Originally Posted by protour_chevelle View Post
      Hit it with an impact in reverse.

      If you have a flywheel on the engine, either have someone go under the car with a pry bar and lock the tooth against the bell housing or buy a LS flex plate/fly wheel locking tool. They bolt to the start location.
      Ok, sweet. The engine/trans is out of the car, but I hear what you're saying.

      Quote Originally Posted by Samckitt View Post
      I have this one too (or one similar design).

      ARP replacement bolt: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...MaAs3-EALw_wcB

      GM bolt: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/N...7840?rrec=true
      Real helpful. Thank you.

      Quote Originally Posted by csouth View Post
      As stated the Chrysler tool is great for the harmonic balancer. You can rent it from AutoZone as I have done a few times.
      I'll go check that out first this morning. Thanks.

      Quote Originally Posted by Hotwire View Post
      I'm using a MAF flywheel holder off ebay. Bought my buddy one too they work so well, worth their weight in gold. They also sell crank pulley installers. I used threaded rod and nuts I purchased from my local Automotive Fasteners.

      https://www.ebay.com/str/mafracingperformancetools

      I also have the amazon crank pulley puller, it's compact and works great! Had a hybrid tahoe that had the electronic's cooling pump mounted right in front of the crank, that puller acted like it was made for that application. Definitely worth it to keep one on hand.
      Alright, I will look one up to grab. Thanks.
      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
      Location
      Alamo, CA USA
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      I have the flywheel lock installed at the starter point. I can't seem to get the harmonic balancer bolt off at all. I'm hitting it with the impact. I'm not seeing it budge. Before I start putting more force onto it, I just want to make sure I'm not doing anything stupid. I should be able to lock down the flywheel and just back that bolt out like any other bolt, right? I'm looking at the torque specs on it and it sure doesn't seem like anything that should be giving me this kinda trouble to take out, but it is. It's not reverse threaded or anything like that, right? Any thoughts here?
      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Location
      Summerfield, NC
      Posts
      240
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      Lol, no, it's on there. The crank hub is not keyed so GM threw down on getting it tight. The crank bolt has antiseize/sealant on the back of it's washer, the washer is large in diameter = huge clamping force.

      To seat the hub when you first put it on you have to torque an old bold to 240ftlbs, that's double a lug nut, so get out the breaker bar and have at it. Normal thread, righty tighty lefty loosey.
      *Jeff*
      Project Salty - 1964 4 door Malibu, beaten, neglected, red headed foster child
      Cammed LQ4 / T56 Swap Project Thread <-click to read! 😁

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
      Location
      Alamo, CA USA
      Posts
      221
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      Quote Originally Posted by Hotwire View Post
      Lol, no, it's on there. The crank hub is not keyed so GM threw down on getting it tight. The crank bolt has antiseize/sealant on the back of it's washer, the washer is large in diameter = huge clamping force.

      To seat the hub when you first put it on you have to torque an old bold to 240ftlbs, that's double a lug nut, so get out the breaker bar and have at it. Normal thread, righty tighty lefty loosey.
      Alright. I just laid on it with the impact for several minutes and it eventually came off. Thanks.
      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      dallas, tx
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      1,689
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      Next time just add about 10 sec of heat on it and then the impact. It will come off with ease.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
      Location
      Alamo, CA USA
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      221
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      Quote Originally Posted by icemanrd19 View Post
      Next time just add about 10 sec of heat on it and then the impact. It will come off with ease.
      I’ll keep that in mind. Thanks.
      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm