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    1. #21
      Join Date
      Apr 2015
      Posts
      89
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by tbal View Post
      Hey guys will the CTSV pump work on the Holley tanks?

      The restomod tank is great but shipping is like $300 to Canada for f sakes lol
      No it won’t. You could get a weld on kit from Ricks that would let you use the CTSV module or just order the restomod from summit. Shipping might be less that way

    2. #22
      Join Date
      Apr 2015
      Posts
      89
      Country Flag: United States
      I should’ve mentioned I just received my restomod from Ricks yesterday and it’s a nice piece! The paint is now a more OEM silver instead of black like the pics I’ve seen which is a nice touch. And being able to use the corner pickups and CTSV module at this price point is awesome.

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Jan 2020
      Location
      Northern VA
      Posts
      60
      Country Flag: United States
      Name:  20200712_123924.jpg
Views: 384
Size:  482.9 KB

      This is the intercooler brick in the ZL1 lid. I am also in the middle of putting a LSA in a 70 Camaro. I am using a Detroit Speed subframe. Not sure on a stock subframe, but the factory accessory drive will not fit the DSE sub frame without some big notching. I went with a Wegner Automotive accessory drive.

      Name:  20200520_135118.jpg
Views: 340
Size:  391.9 KB

      I also machined off the factory quick connect fittings and welded on -12AN fittings

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      72
      Quote Originally Posted by NorCal-SS View Post
      I should’ve mentioned I just received my restomod from Ricks yesterday and it’s a nice piece! The paint is now a more OEM silver instead of black like the pics I’ve seen which is a nice touch. And being able to use the corner pickups and CTSV module at this price point is awesome.
      I think I’m just going to have to bite the bullet and pay the ridiculous shipping. Do they sell the pumps as well?

      - - - Updated - - -

      Quote Originally Posted by Bigblockscott View Post
      Name:  20200712_123924.jpg
Views: 384
Size:  482.9 KB

      This is the intercooler brick in the ZL1 lid. I am also in the middle of putting a LSA in a 70 Camaro. I am using a Detroit Speed subframe. Not sure on a stock subframe, but the factory accessory drive will not fit the DSE sub frame without some big notching. I went with a Wegner Automotive accessory drive.

      Name:  20200520_135118.jpg
Views: 340
Size:  391.9 KB



      I also machined off the factory quick connect fittings and welded on -12AN fittings
      beauity! That will help... I just ordered the plates!

      any pictures of what the isolator should or shouldn’t look like that needs to be replaced or modified?

      thanks


    5. #25
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      72
      So guys to confirm ,

      Pulley run a 2.40 upper and 9.55 lower (will it clear stock sub?) weaponx?
      302-2 pan
      Long tube headers
      Which cam?
      Which injectors?
      Ricks tank with CTSV pump and vaporworx controller
      Solid isolator mod
      Brick mod
      Sanden ac comp w brackets

      Are you guys doing any extra HE coolant tanks?

      Goal... I think trying to hit 650whp... “safely” ... if that’s possible...

      Did I miss any mods?

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm in the middle of an LSA swap myself and am very close to finishing it up. I don't have anything to add that hasn't already been addressed. I'm running the stock CTSV balancer and a 2.55 Griptech pulley. Should net me around 12psi. I'd also suggest a cam while you have it all apart anyway. I went with a baby cam and chose the Summit 8715 Ghost Cam.

      I see all of the engine mods mentioned, but I couldn't help but think about your other driveline components. Is your T56 built to handle 650-700 HP? Also what clutch?


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Jan 2020
      Location
      Northern VA
      Posts
      60
      Country Flag: United States
      Tbal,

      I can not find any pictures of when I did my solid isolater. But when you take the snout off, which can be a little stubborn, you'll see it. It rides on a 3 prong flange, 3 prongs on the blower snout, and 3 prongs in the blower body. The stock unit has a spring on it, and the spring wears its way through the plastic and can wear into the shaft. The solid isolater does away with the spring. Here is a picture I found on the internet.

      Name:  LSA isolater.jpg
Views: 613
Size:  19.2 KB

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,584
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Bigblockscott View Post
      Tbal,

      I can not find any pictures of when I did my solid isolater. But when you take the snout off, which can be a little stubborn, you'll see it. It rides on a 3 prong flange, 3 prongs on the blower snout, and 3 prongs in the blower body. The stock unit has a spring on it, and the spring wears its way through the plastic and can wear into the shaft. The solid isolater does away with the spring. Here is a picture I found on the internet.

      Name:  LSA isolater.jpg
Views: 613
Size:  19.2 KB
      You want to use the LPE/Eaton version pictured below.
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      72
      Great info Guys thank you...

      Can someone link me to which vapourworx kit and CTSV pump please. It’s like the whole measure twice, cut once... I just wanna order the right stuff once lol

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Jan 2020
      Location
      Northern VA
      Posts
      60
      Country Flag: United States
      Call Rick or Hector at Rick's tanks. Super nice guys, super helpful.
      1 (915) - 760 - 4388

    11. #31
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      72
      Quote Originally Posted by Bigblockscott View Post
      Call Rick or Hector at Rick's tanks. Super nice guys, super helpful.
      1 (915) - 760 - 4388
      spoke to Hector @ Ricks and Carl @ Vapourworx... man! Haven’t met more helpful and nice guys in awhile! I would highly recommend and do business with these superb gentlemen and companies again!

    12. #32
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      696
      Your next call should be to Carl at vaporworx he is a wealth of knowledge. Fire all your questions away!

    13. #33
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      72
      Spoke to Carl too, I mentioned above

    14. #34
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      72
      Almost there ; still hesitant to order ;

      Pulley run a Griptec 2.40 upper? and 9.55 lower? (will it clear stock sub?)
      Have to change lower? The upper... Hub pattern? Include hub?

      Which cam? Considering BTR Stage 3
      Which injectors? 72 or 80 lbs?

      Trying to get to 750hp ...

    15. #35
      Join Date
      Jan 2020
      Location
      Northern VA
      Posts
      60
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by tbal View Post
      Almost there ; still hesitant to order

      Pulley run a Griptec 2.40 upper? and 9.55 lower? (will it clear stock sub?)
      Have to change lower? The upper... Hub pattern? Include hub?

      Which cam? Considering BTR Stage 3
      Which injectors? 72 or 80 lbs?

      Trying to get to 750hp ...

      Your best and safest bet is to get the engine + transmission installed and set to how they are going to be when everything is all said and done. From there, you can measure for a lower pulley. I made the mistake of ordering a lower pulley before getting everything in place, long story short, the pulley I ordered was WAY too big, and now it has been so long since I ordered it, I can no longer return it.

      Order the ATI damper for the LSA, get it without the AC pulley, you won't be able to fit the compressor in the stock location unless you are comfortable with cutting up the subframe. You will probably have to call them directly to get it without the AC pulley, but it will be cheaper. ATI offers a few different lower pulleys, but get the damper installed first so you can accurately see how much space you have, than order a lower pulley.
      Also, order an ARP crank bolt.

      For the pulley on the blower itself, get one that presses on like stock. Only reason for getting a hub with a bolt on style pulley would be if you plan on swapping pulleys often. Also if I remember correctly, you have to have your snout machined to accept the hub for a bolt on pulley. Take a look at the Weapon X Motorsports blower pulley chart. Once you know what size lower pulley you can fit, than you can use the chart to select your upper pulley.

      I have the BTR stage 3 cam in my LSA, but I have not fired it up yet, so no comment on that.
      Also no comment on fuel injector size, not knowledgeable enough to give a safe recommendation.

    16. #36
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      72
      I want to do the motor mods before it goes into the car. I don’t want to have to pull it out later and mess up the paint etc.

      So considering just the upper pulley for now. 2.40 good guys? Also the btr stage 3 and call it a day..

    17. #37
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Newbury Park, CA
      Posts
      5,821
      Country Flag: United States
      None of the GM, Ford, Dodge, etc. fuel modules will fit an Aeromotive/Holley tank. The CTS-V/ZL1 fuel modules use a standardized USCAR spec where the tank-to-module interface is the same. A Ford module will clamp into a GM tank, but it does not mean it will be the correct height, electrical, etc. Just the tank interface is the same, and much larger than what has been used in the aftermarket for decades. Even my neighbors 2019 Honda Gold Wing has the same tank interface as a GM fuel module.

      The CTS-V2 (2009-14) is a great module capable for up to 750fwhp supercharged. However, it has recently gone way up in price vs. the Gen5 ZL1. It is capable of roughly 650hp supercharged, so enough to feed LSA's with a pretty good amount of work done to them. It also is a great match for the LT4. For higher horsepower LT4 and all LT5 we recommend dual ZL1.

      The modern fuel modules are so good that it's not even a fair comparison to the aftermarket offerings. The ZL1 module has a built in final filter, safety devices, is 750NA/650FI HP capable, is OEM validated, and will literally suck the tank dry during "spirited" driving before the engine stops running. Aftermarket offerings that use rubber buckets with holes in the bottom are not even in the same orbit as the OEM module. Return-type systems have not been used in Camaros, Cadillacs, GM trucks, Mustangs, etc. for nearly 20 years, they all use returnless pwm controlled fuel modules, including 800hp+ Demons.

      There's a ton of info here to help with understanding of how these systems work starting here with fuel delivery 101: https://www.vaporworx.com/resources/
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    18. #38
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      72
      Hey Carl! As always you are so helpful. Looking forward to receiving the goodies!

      - Tony

    19. #39
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      72
      Hey guys, do I need to do New lifters , rods etc with the BTR stage 3 cam?

      Can someone point me into the right direction on ones I need.

    20. #40
      Join Date
      Jan 2020
      Location
      Northern VA
      Posts
      60
      Country Flag: United States
      If you're putting in a new cam, I would absolutely do new lifters. I did stock GM lifters with my cam swap. I'm sure BTR could recommend something for you too. You will need to do new valve springs for that cam, the stock springs won't be happy with that much lift. Push rods will have to be measured for if you've had any machine work done. I did K1 rods in my motor because I plan on running the car hard, constantly, I've also read builds on the CTSV and Camaro forums where the guys turn the power way up and leave the stock rods.

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