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    Results 41 to 60 of 90
    1. #41
      Join Date
      Jan 2021
      Location
      Alabama
      Posts
      64
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by TANKMASTERJ View Post
      I had same problem with lightning so I bought 6 300watt LEDs. What a difference.
      Your car is looking awesome and your progress is coming to along rather quickly. Keep it up.
      Jason
      Thanks!
      Spent all my money on car parts will have to save for upgraded lights in the future! haha



    2. #42
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Wow, that fit on there really nice. You work quickly! Would you mind taking some shots of the fitment around the rear frame rails? I'd love to go with that frame someday.


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    3. #43
      Join Date
      Jan 2021
      Location
      Alabama
      Posts
      64
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ryeguy2006a View Post
      Wow, that fit on there really nice. You work quickly! Would you mind taking some shots of the fitment around the rear frame rails? I'd love to go with that frame someday.
      I will be sure to do that and post them when I get more into that stage.
      I just put the frame down close for some pictures and to eyeball the fit. None of the frame mounting bushings or anything. I have lifted it back up again to work on other things.
      I can tell you I sectioned out part of the rear frame rails and boxed them in to accommodate the wheel tubs. The chassis frame sits inside the body frame rails. Looks like it will be a very nice fit.

    4. #44
      Join Date
      Jan 2021
      Location
      Alabama
      Posts
      64
      Country Flag: United States
      Got the engine in the chassis this week. I expect it will come back out possibly a few times but my goal right now was too get it in place so I can get a driveshaft ordered and also figure out where I need to cut the hole for the shifter in my modified tunnel. I am going to have to modify the interior center console so I need to figure out where I stand on that positioning, Sure is easy to move the engine in and out at this stage with no front body work to maneuver around!

      I lowered the body down towards the chassis looking to check fitment. I got it about 2" away and realized I need to remove one of the old brackets on each side from the frame rails so will be cutting those out and seeing how everything fits together. Looks like it should all fit very nicely!

      I just quickly bolted up the transmission and bell housing. The flywheel, clutch and throw out bearing are not installed yet. Will go back and do that so. Waiting for a remote bleeder kit for the hydraulic throw out bearing to arrive but wanted to go ahead and get the motor in place so I could see how things are fitting.


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    5. #45
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Boston, MA
      Posts
      734
      looking good!
      ~Ryan

    6. #46
      Join Date
      Jan 2021
      Location
      Alabama
      Posts
      64
      Country Flag: United States
      Been making some slow progress the last couple weeks.
      Once I got the clutch and everything installed I was looking at how the transmission would line up with the console and where to cut the hole in the T56 trans tunnel extension piece I had welded in. Found the White lighting unit from American powertrain for the T56 which allowed me to move the handle forward the needed 1.75" for a good alignment. Got that mocked up and looks like it will work great.

      Also installed the vintage air frontrunner system, my brake booster and master cylinder. Looking for any space conflicts and everything is looking good. I have mocked up the steering column and ordered my steering shaft and joints. Looks like it will clear the headers by about 1/2" so I was pleased not to have a conflict.

      Mocked up the fuel tank so I can figure out where I want to run the fuel lines.

      I need to measure for the driveshaft. I live in small town Alabama and do not have any local shops I would trust to make me a driveshaft. If anyone has any online vendors for driveshafts they would recommend I would appreciate the recommendations.

      Also I am really clueless about how to measure for the proper wheel size so will need to educate myself on that.

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    7. #47
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Scott,

      You're making quick work of this build!

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    8. #48
      Join Date
      Mar 2015
      Location
      Baton Rouge, LA
      Posts
      106
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
      Been making some slow progress the last couple weeks.
      Once I got the clutch and everything installed I was looking at how the transmission would line up with the console and where to cut the hole in the T56 trans tunnel extension piece I had welded in. Found the White lighting unit from American powertrain for the T56 which allowed me to move the handle forward the needed 1.75" for a good alignment. Got that mocked up and looks like it will work great.

      Also installed the vintage air frontrunner system, my brake booster and master cylinder. Looking for any space conflicts and everything is looking good. I have mocked up the steering column and ordered my steering shaft and joints. Looks like it will clear the headers by about 1/2" so I was pleased not to have a conflict.

      Mocked up the fuel tank so I can figure out where I want to run the fuel lines.

      I need to measure for the driveshaft. I live in small town Alabama and do not have any local shops I would trust to make me a driveshaft. If anyone has any online vendors for driveshafts they would recommend I would appreciate the recommendations.

      Also I am really clueless about how to measure for the proper wheel size so will need to educate myself on that.
      Nice selection of parts you've got so far, and impressive to see how quickly you're moving along (I've had my project for like 6 years and am behind you haha). As for driveshafts it depends on what you want (carbon fiber, true CV, etc) but a plain 3.5" aluminum driveshaft should be just fine with what you have. Inland Empire, Mark Williams (really nice, but $$$) and DriveShaftShop would be the ones I'd go to if you don't have a local race shop you'd trust.

      As for getting the wheels squared away, your best bet is to buy a mockup tire(s) and a backspacing tool and use that to actually measure what backspacing you need. With how expensive some wheels are I'd hate to guess and make a mistake there, plus the backspacing tool can be easily sold for close to what you got it for.

    9. #49
      Join Date
      Jan 2021
      Location
      Alabama
      Posts
      64
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ICrombie View Post
      Nice selection of parts you've got so far, and impressive to see how quickly you're moving along (I've had my project for like 6 years and am behind you haha). As for driveshafts it depends on what you want (carbon fiber, true CV, etc) but a plain 3.5" aluminum driveshaft should be just fine with what you have. Inland Empire, Mark Williams (really nice, but $$$) and DriveShaftShop would be the ones I'd go to if you don't have a local race shop you'd trust.

      As for getting the wheels squared away, your best bet is to buy a mockup tire(s) and a backspacing tool and use that to actually measure what backspacing you need. With how expensive some wheels are I'd hate to guess and make a mistake there, plus the backspacing tool can be easily sold for close to what you got it for.

      Great info thanks
      Ya I dont need any CF driveshaft or anything. I have had a few recs for both driveshaft shop and inland empire. Will look into both.

      For the backspacing tool I have seen only a couple options at around $400-500. Is that what you are talking about?

    10. #50
      Join Date
      Mar 2015
      Location
      Baton Rouge, LA
      Posts
      106
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
      Great info thanks
      Ya I dont need any CF driveshaft or anything. I have had a few recs for both driveshaft shop and inland empire. Will look into both.

      For the backspacing tool I have seen only a couple options at around $400-500. Is that what you are talking about?
      Yes, seems like any will do the job but from what I've heard the verifiedfab one is the easiest to work with.

    11. #51
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      1,293
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice build and excellent choice of parts. I would have gone with the Roadster Shop chassis if I wasn't already so heavily invested in all DSE stuff.

      I also wanted to throw Denny's Driveshaft in to the mix. I've ordered 2 from them and they were spot on. I'd use them again, but am leaning toward a CF one from QA1...

    12. #52
      Join Date
      Jan 2021
      Location
      Alabama
      Posts
      64
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by John McIntire View Post
      Nice build and excellent choice of parts. I would have gone with the Roadster Shop chassis if I wasn't already so heavily invested in all DSE stuff.

      I also wanted to throw Denny's Driveshaft in to the mix. I've ordered 2 from them and they were spot on. I'd use them again, but am leaning toward a CF one from QA1...
      Thanks for the suggestion John. I also have a tab on my desktop open to their page for further investigation.

    13. #53
      Join Date
      Jan 2021
      Location
      Alabama
      Posts
      64
      Country Flag: United States
      Been a while since I have updated. Been slowly plugging away on the build. Seem to be spending more time planning than actually building so the progress has been slow.
      I started working on the vintage air install in the cabin but that quickly led me on a few tangents because I realized before I mounted the firewall block off plate I needed to figure out where I was mounting stuff on the firewall.
      Got the fuel line ran, mounted the hydraulic clutch, installed the pedals, modified the firewall to fit the American auto wire fuse box and mounted that. Figured out where to mount the components for the GMPP LS3 harness and figured out where I want to run my power wiring. I have elected to leave the battery in its stock front location.
      I seem to be at the stage where I have about 10 things going at once and am moving slowly on all of them!

      I did get my driveshaft delivered. Ordered it from Strange engineering. They built my reared on the Roadster Shop chassis which seemed like a nice unit so figured I would use them for the driveshaft as well. Pleased with how it looks anyways. Have not installed it yet.

      Currently I have the body sitting on the chassis so I could lay some things out. I am getting to some roadblocks because I know I will need to lift the body again so I have a bunch of items that are complete as far as I can go until I do the final body to chassis mounting. I plan to lift it off one more time , do the exhaust as well as some other items that are easier to do when things are separated and then put it all back together when I can finish everything out.

      Currently finishing the vintage air install and working at starting the wiring. Wiring will be a challenge for me. I expect more slow progress but that is fine as I am in no rush.

      Here are a few pics.

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    14. #54
      Join Date
      Sep 2017
      Posts
      825
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
      Been a while since I have updated. Been slowly plugging away on the build. Seem to be spending more time planning than actually building so the progress has been slow.
      I started working on the vintage air install in the cabin but that quickly led me on a few tangents because I realized before I mounted the firewall block off plate I needed to figure out where I was mounting stuff on the firewall.
      Got the fuel line ran, mounted the hydraulic clutch, installed the pedals, modified the firewall to fit the American auto wire fuse box and mounted that. Figured out where to mount the components for the GMPP LS3 harness and figured out where I want to run my power wiring. I have elected to leave the battery in its stock front location.
      I seem to be at the stage where I have about 10 things going at once and am moving slowly on all of them!

      I did get my driveshaft delivered. Ordered it from Strange engineering. They built my reared on the Roadster Shop chassis which seemed like a nice unit so figured I would use them for the driveshaft as well. Pleased with how it looks anyways. Have not installed it yet.

      Currently I have the body sitting on the chassis so I could lay some things out. I am getting to some roadblocks because I know I will need to lift the body again so I have a bunch of items that are complete as far as I can go until I do the final body to chassis mounting. I plan to lift it off one more time , do the exhaust as well as some other items that are easier to do when things are separated and then put it all back together when I can finish everything out.

      Currently finishing the vintage air install and working at starting the wiring. Wiring will be a challenge for me. I expect more slow progress but that is fine as I am in no rush.

      Here are a few pics.

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      I'm I like where your ECM went. I put mine up on the back side of the cowl above my vintage air right through the glove box hole. It's super tight but it's in there. I ordered my harness to the passenger side like that but wish I'd ordered it to poke through right in the middle of the firewall because I got lots more room towards the drivers side from the vintage air.
      Looks like you are making great progress to me.

      Jason
      TANKMASTERJ
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...touring-Camaro
      Jasons Toys
      67 Camaro White Lightning LMR LS7 powered, Speed tech Front and Rear.
      2023 Rapid Blue ZL1 the Blue Devil
      2000 HD Softail
      1989 CBR Hurricane anniversary edition

    15. #55
      Join Date
      Jan 2021
      Location
      Alabama
      Posts
      64
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by TANKMASTERJ View Post
      I'm I like where your ECM went. I put mine up on the back side of the cowl above my vintage air right through the glove box hole. It's super tight but it's in there. I ordered my harness to the passenger side like that but wish I'd ordered it to poke through right in the middle of the firewall because I got lots more room towards the drivers side from the vintage air.
      Looks like you are making great progress to me.

      Jason
      Thanks! I think it will work well over there.
      Still working away on wiring. Feel like making very little progress but am making some progress. Need to add some recent pictures soon.

    16. #56
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Location
      Vancouver,Canada
      Posts
      91
      Country Flag: Canada
      Great work you're hauling on this build. I like the choice of sets you went with.How's your opinion of them?

    17. #57
      Join Date
      Jan 2021
      Location
      Alabama
      Posts
      64
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Dave Pratt View Post
      Great work you're hauling on this build. I like the choice of sets you went with.How's your opinion of them?
      Have just mounted them in the car temporarily and probably only sat in them for 30 minutes but so far am quite pleased. I broke my back when I was younger so really rely on a good seat. I opted for the built in seat heaters (obviously haven't tried these but have the same units in my Cobra and they work great) I also have the inflatable lumbar support which is activated by a small hand pump (similar to the pump type on a blood pressure cuff at the doctor). Seems like they will be comfortable and supportive. I am 6'3" and about 200. Bolsters seem to hug me nicely.

      - - - Updated - - -

      I have been slowly plugging away. Spending a lot of time working out details and slowly progressing on the wiring.
      It seems like every time I go down to work on it I have something in mind I hope to accomplish. However when I get started on that task I realize I need to do something else before I can progress on what I thought I was working on and end up going off on a tangent.

      Basically at this point I have the body sitting on the chassis temporarily still. I plan to separate it one more time and am trying to develop a master plan of what and when things need to be done.
      I did finish the vintage air install for the portion that is in the cabin. Have ran most of the wiring harness in the car. I am using the Dakota digital guages with the BIM module that hooks up to the OBD plug on the GM harness so am trying to sort through what I do and do not need to use from the American Autowire harness. My console originally never had the gauge pod so I have spent a lot of time modifying my console to accept those. I installed the sound system and ran those wires under the console and also installed the seat heater wiring harnesses and placed the on/off switches for those in the console.

      I have test fit the seat. I am 6'3". The seat on the sliders sits just a little higher than I would like. Maybe 1/2-3/4". I have looked that over and dont see a great way to lower it and retain the fore/aft slider mechanism. In my '79 911 I built with custom seats I ended up mounting it in a fixed position because the sliders added to much height. For this I want to retain the adjustability so believe I will just live with it as it is. This also gave me a chance to mount up the steering wheel and shift lever. Realized the lever that came with the transmission was to far forward so I ordered a hurst lever that angles back at me. Narrowing in on a nice driving position so I am glad I got that layed out.

      Also ordered an engine cover for the LS3. They came in bare aluminum. I had them powder coated black and my friend with a print shop made me some vinyl Camaro/ LS3/ Roadster Shop decals I applied. Really pleased how those came out.

      I do keep up with my hours and am at 310 hours of labor since starting in March 2021. No idea how many more it will take but I sure intend to be driving this thing this year! There isn't a lot to see with my slow progress on wiring but here are a few pics.

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    18. #58
      Join Date
      Sep 2017
      Posts
      825
      Country Flag: United States
      Yeah Scott the wiring is a ton of work and little shows.
      After running out of plumbing fittings to finish brake lines, and then finishing fuel lines, I jumped back on wiring. Goty Raingear wired in, tested and working great. Started on gauge bezel.
      Keep it up man Slow and Steady.
      Jason
      TANKMASTERJ
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...touring-Camaro
      Jasons Toys
      67 Camaro White Lightning LMR LS7 powered, Speed tech Front and Rear.
      2023 Rapid Blue ZL1 the Blue Devil
      2000 HD Softail
      1989 CBR Hurricane anniversary edition

    19. #59
      Join Date
      Sep 2021
      Location
      Portland, OR
      Posts
      34
      Country Flag: United States
      Great looking project, you're making a ton of progress.

      That's interesting that chassis didn't need any body modifications. When I've seen a RS chassis get installed on TV it looked like they almost hacked out half the floor to get it in there.
      After seeing that I wrote off the idea at that point. Now that I've seen it can actually be done without building an entirely new floor I will have to revisit the idea again.

      Thanks for posting!

    20. #60
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Garden Ridge TX
      Posts
      60
      The spec chassis is designed to bolt right on with minimal cutting. The Fast Track chassis requires a floor, rear area rework to fit. I have installed the fast track on a C10 and had to do alot of bed mods to fit it. I have a spec chassis for my 74 TA and it looks like it should bolt right on. Roadster shop makes an incredible frame. Scott, great work on the camaro so far. Great attention to detail. Lovin this build.
      Evo.

      my 74 TA chassis
      Attached Images Attached Images  

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