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    Results 21 to 40 of 69
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
      Location
      Alamo, CA USA
      Posts
      228
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      I wouldn't use aluminum with any fuel that contains ethanol. I like NiCopp because it is easy to bend and flare and is non-corrosive. I also like how looks.

      Andrew
      Quote Originally Posted by parsonsj View Post
      I've used all those materials. All will work fine.

      • I prefer nicopp: it's easy to work, and bends and flares easily. It comes in rolls, so you have to work a bit to make the straight sections "straight". Still, I don't use anything else anymore.
      • Aluminum comes in several alloys and stiffness, from the completely annealed rolls you get from Summit/Jegs to the very stiff sticks you can get from McMaster-Carr. I've had success with all of them, and prefer to start with the straight versions.
      • Steel rusts, so you need to paint it or coat it after it's been bent to shape.
      • Stainless looks nice but is a real bitch to flare, and often cracks at the flares when used for brake lines. It tends to seep through flares in general too.
      Very nice comparison here. Thank you.

      With hard tubing, do you have to considering linings or is that not a thing with hard tubing? Is it all just bare material?

      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      It's just bare metal.
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      Bakersfield, CA
      Posts
      603
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by slimjim View Post
      Has anyone considered running the PTFE line for hotrodfuelhose? looks like an easy option
      I have, found it to be nearly identical to the Holley stuff. Sometimes they have some good discount codes that make it worth it.
      http://www.TheFOAT.com/92GTA
      1969 Pontiac Firebird
      w/535ci IAII aluminum block, Dailey dry sump, Holley EFI (full road race build). Primer black w/black interior.
      1992 Pontiac Trans Am GTA w/SLP Performance Package. Dark Jade Grey Metallic, grey leather, T-Tops.

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Hamilton, NJ
      Posts
      4,291
      Country Flag: United States
      With aluminum, or even ni-comp, do you guys use rockguard or such to protect it?
      Scott from NJ.

      Vent Windows Forever! ...

      Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
      I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by BonzoHansen View Post
      With aluminum, or even ni-comp, do you guys use rockguard or such to protect it?
      I don't, but it's probably not a bad idea.
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,487
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by BonzoHansen View Post
      With aluminum, or even ni-comp, do you guys use rockguard or such to protect it?
      I have used rock guard in the same locations as the factory.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
      Location
      Alamo, CA USA
      Posts
      228
      Country Flag: United States
      Picked up 20' of nicopp from Amazon. Cheap. Smaller than I'll eventually use, so easier to bend. Was less than $20. Did so just to practice and start seeing if I could build a template for around the car. Could use some help on tools. I'm ok spending money on good tools if I'm going to get use out of them forever. What tube benders and flaring tools are you guys using?
      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by roguegeek View Post
      Picked up 20' of nicopp from Amazon. Cheap. Smaller than I'll eventually use, so easier to bend. Was less than $20. Did so just to practice and start seeing if I could build a template for around the car. Could use some help on tools. I'm ok spending money on good tools if I'm going to get use out of them forever. What tube benders and flaring tools are you guys using?
      I just got an Earl's flaring tool. I believe the same kind is sold by various companies. Mine has dies for both 37 degree AN single flares and 45 degree SAE double flares. Pretty excited about using it.

      Andrew
      Last edited by andrewb70; 03-13-2021 at 07:28 AM.
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      696
      This is what I got. Different companies make this type of tool but they all look the same and perform the same. Like I said before. It was my first time making brake lines and fuel lines and I have zero leaks. The way this tool is designed there’s no if’s ands or buts about the flares, you flare it once and it’s perfect every time. The other cheap tools you can crank on the handle maybe a little more or maybe you didn’t crank it enough etc. also this one has the dyes for 45 double fare and 37 single and bubble. It’s the only flare tool you’ll ever need.

      https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Professi...%20tool&sr=8-4

      For tubing benders I used this. The nicopp is very easy to bend and most bends you’ll actually be making by hand because they will be soft bends. But in case you need a tight radius 90 or 180 you’ll definitely need the tool.

      https://www.amazon.com/LORESO-Bender...tubing+&sr=8-6

      For rock guards I just put it on all the brake lines and fuel lines. It’s cheap and can’t hurt right? I got the stainless versions. Here’s links

      https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Bra...5644297&sr=8-3

      https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Bra...5644379&sr=8-3

      Here’s the clamps I bought for brake lines and fuel lines. If your going to use the rock guard then upsize the clamps from 3/16 to 1/4 and from 3/8 to 1/2.

      https://www.amazon.com/LOKMAN-Stainl...8-6&th=1&psc=1

      I try to get EVERYTHING from Amazon that way if I don’t like it or doesn’t fit or doesn’t function or feel/looks poor quality I can return it no questions asked for free!

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      charlotte
      Posts
      924
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by joeko23 View Post
      I try to get EVERYTHING from Amazon that way if I don’t like it or doesn’t fit or doesn’t function or feel/looks poor quality I can return it no questions asked for free!
      I try to do the same as much as possible. I wish they stocked more

    11. #31
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      I have also used the Rigid 377 37 degree flaring tool and it works great.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    12. #32
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      Bakersfield, CA
      Posts
      603
      Country Flag: United States
      Ditto, I have the Ridgid tool for both 45 and 37 degree.
      http://www.TheFOAT.com/92GTA
      1969 Pontiac Firebird
      w/535ci IAII aluminum block, Dailey dry sump, Holley EFI (full road race build). Primer black w/black interior.
      1992 Pontiac Trans Am GTA w/SLP Performance Package. Dark Jade Grey Metallic, grey leather, T-Tops.

    13. #33
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
      Location
      Alamo, CA USA
      Posts
      228
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      I just got an Earl's flaring tool. I believe the same kind is sold by various companies. Mine has dies for both 37 degree AN single flares and 45 degree SAE double flares. Pretty excited about using it.

      Andrew
      That certainly looks like a nice tool, but man, that price. Buy once, cry once, right?

      - - - Updated - - -

      Quote Originally Posted by joeko23 View Post
      This is what I got. Different companies make this type of tool but they all look the same and perform the same. Like I said before. It was my first time making brake lines and fuel lines and I have zero leaks. The way this tool is designed there’s no if’s ands or buts about the flares, you flare it once and it’s perfect every time. The other cheap tools you can crank on the handle maybe a little more or maybe you didn’t crank it enough etc. also this one has the dyes for 45 double fare and 37 single and bubble. It’s the only flare tool you’ll ever need.

      https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Professi...%20tool&sr=8-4

      For tubing benders I used this. The nicopp is very easy to bend and most bends you’ll actually be making by hand because they will be soft bends. But in case you need a tight radius 90 or 180 you’ll definitely need the tool.

      https://www.amazon.com/LORESO-Bender...tubing+&sr=8-6

      For rock guards I just put it on all the brake lines and fuel lines. It’s cheap and can’t hurt right? I got the stainless versions. Here’s links

      https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Bra...5644297&sr=8-3

      https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Bra...5644379&sr=8-3

      Here’s the clamps I bought for brake lines and fuel lines. If your going to use the rock guard then upsize the clamps from 3/16 to 1/4 and from 3/8 to 1/2.

      https://www.amazon.com/LOKMAN-Stainl...8-6&th=1&psc=1

      I try to get EVERYTHING from Amazon that way if I don’t like it or doesn’t fit or doesn’t function or feel/looks poor quality I can return it no questions asked for free!
      These are all super helpful. Yeah, I definitely like to try to get what I can from Amazon. The flaring tool's price is a lot easier on the wallet over the Earl's.

      - - - Updated - - -

      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      I have also used the Rigid 377 37 degree flaring tool and it works great.

      Andrew
      Looks like a nice tool that will do the job. Price is good too. I'm weighing this vs the TGR listed above. The TGR could be overkill since I don't think I'll be using 45 degree flares anywhere, although I could be wrong about that.
      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm

    14. #34
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
      Location
      Alamo, CA USA
      Posts
      228
      Country Flag: United States
      Any more suggestions out there for benders and tube cutters? I got a recommendation for the Imperial Tools tube benders. I'll probably grab that and the basic Ridgid tube cutter there isn't something drastically better I should be grabbing.
      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm

    15. #35
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      All of your brakes will be 45 SAE double flares.
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    16. #36
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
      Location
      Alamo, CA USA
      Posts
      228
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      All of your brakes will be 45 SAE double flares.
      Ok, well that makes the value of those tools immediate go up for me. Thank you for pointing this out.
      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm

    17. #37
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
      Location
      Alamo, CA USA
      Posts
      228
      Country Flag: United States
      Ordered the TGR Flaring Tool, Imperial Tool Tube Bender, and Ridgid Tube Cutter. Thanks for help on this.
      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm

    18. #38
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      696
      You’ll love the TGR flare tool. Like I said your flares will be 100% and leak free! If you don’t like it return it after you use it. LOL

    19. #39
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
      Location
      Alamo, CA USA
      Posts
      228
      Country Flag: United States
      Gonna ask an off-topic question here just to see if I can save myself (and all of you) from yet another post of mine. I'm playing with the routing of the fuel lines right now. Obviously, there's places where I must use fitments, but is it good practice to try and make single longer hard tube going from back to front or is it actually good to use some fitments here and there? Maybe where there's tighter turns that the bending tool can't make? I guess I'm looking for overall good practices to use when mocking up these lines.
      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm

    20. #40
      Join Date
      Jul 2017
      Location
      Island Lake, IL
      Posts
      131
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      I wouldn't use aluminum with any fuel that contains ethanol. I like NiCopp because it is easy to bend and flare and is non-corrosive. I also like how looks.

      Andrew

      There's a lot of conflicting information on this if you poke your head around with Ethanol. Some people say it's the worst corrosive thing ever and others swear by it with no claimed issues at all.

      For those who may be worried about ethanol, brands like Lucas and Sta-Bil offer fuel treatment/conditioner and stabilizers for storage.

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