Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register



    Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
    Results 21 to 37 of 37
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
      Location
      Alamo, CA USA
      Posts
      218
      Country Flag: United States
      Ok, so apparently Rick's is offering the Restomod tanks with cutouts on first-gens, but not second-gens. I grabbed the first-gen Restomod tank through MCB and will just have to modify the fuel filler or be ok with it sitting a little higher. Everything else fits just fine. 2 week turnaround time, which is pretty damn good these days.



      Now I just need to figure out what I need from VaporWorx. Using their Selector Tool, it gave me the following kits if I'm staying under 750hp:

      Could use some help here. What's the difference and which one is going to best suit my needs?
      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      474
      You need the ZL1/Universal PWM controller. You can email or call Carl at VaporWorx. The DW300C kit is for a specialized pump (DW300). If your getting the ZL1 pump then you’ll need the one for ZL1

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
      Location
      Alamo, CA USA
      Posts
      218
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by joeko23 View Post
      You need the ZL1/Universal PWM controller. You can email or call Carl at VaporWorx. The DW300C kit is for a specialized pump (DW300). If your getting the ZL1 pump then you’ll need the one for ZL1
      So the tank ordered up for me from MCB is the following specs:

      RESTOMOD 1969 CAMARO
      Vaporworx SS pump.
      Sending unit 90 ohms
      16091 1969 GM F Body stamped 1
      steel tank. Level I
      Vaporworx system. Camaro
      SS pump, Corner pick ups,
      Harness, Pushlock fitting
      and tube style sending
      unit 90 ohms.

      Did I get the wrong pump?
      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      3,759
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by roguegeek View Post
      So the tank ordered up for me from MCB is the following specs:

      RESTOMOD 1969 CAMARO
      Vaporworx SS pump.
      Sending unit 90 ohms
      16091 1969 GM F Body stamped 1
      steel tank. Level I
      Vaporworx system. Camaro
      SS pump, Corner pick ups,
      Harness, Pushlock fitting
      and tube style sending
      unit 90 ohms.

      Level I
      Vaporworx system. Camaro
      SS pump, Corner pick ups,
      Harness, Pushlock fitting
      and tube style sending
      unit 90 ohms.

      Did I get the wrong pump?
      You should have got the ZL1 pump not the SS pump.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
      Location
      Alamo, CA USA
      Posts
      218
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      You should have got the ZL1 pump not the SS pump.

      Don
      Ok. I’ll get this changed up. See anything else funky there?
      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      3,759
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by roguegeek View Post
      Ok. Iíll get this changed up. See anything else funky there?
      Since it says Vaporworx Iím assuming they will leave the stock ZL1 pressure regulator on the fuel pump. Thatís whatís needed for PWM.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      628
      Quote Originally Posted by roguegeek View Post
      The link in my signature lists my goals for the project, but the TLDR version is; this needs to be a daily driver first while being capable and competitive enough to do dozen or so track days a year. Thoughts?
      Apologies, I didn’t read the signature. My opinion, FWIW, if I was building a track day car i’d choose an “off the shelf” Fuel Safe or ATL bladder ($500-800). Buy or build the “can” to contain the bladder and integrate it into the build. Wait until the end of the build to buy the bladder as they do have a shelf life. Yes, the bladder will need to be replaced every five years, but the cost is minimal per year and the safety gained is substantial. A novice driver with a mild setup can easily achieve speeds an OEM style fuel tank cannot survive in an unplanned deviation from from the track surface. Vaporworx and other fuel delivery suppliers can help with getting the fuel to the front of the car.
      Last edited by JohnUlaszek; 03-03-2021 at 06:58 AM.

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Aug 2018
      Location
      Saginaw Mi
      Posts
      94
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      I to recommend the Rick's RestoMod tank, 5th Gen Camaro module, VaporWorx PWM controller, and using NiCopp fuel lines. Here is a video that I made a while ago on how to mate NiCopp fuel lines to AN hoses.

      The AN hoses that you choose should be PTFE lined, not rubber.

      Andrew
      Would you still need the controller if you are using a factory GM ECU?

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Jun 2018
      Location
      Alamo, CA USA
      Posts
      218
      Country Flag: United States
      Alright. Spoke with Carl this morning. Awesome call. Tremendous help. Really helped me take all of the information in my head and put it together in a more comprehensive way. Grabbed the VaporWorx PressureWorx ZL1/Universal PWM Fuel Module Controller and a couple other accessories. Called up MCB and got the Rick's Tanks order changed over to the ZL1 pump. I think I'm set here.

      Now I just need to get lines straighten out. I'm going to do hard lines where I can with some flexible tubing on both ends. I may grab the tools and materials to try and bend my own. I may look at the manufacturers that have been recommended to me such as Goodridge, Fragola, etc... Would like to hear any futher recommendations you guys might have there.

      Again, thanks everyone.
      1973 Camaro: LS427/570, T56, Speedtech ExtReme subframe/torque arm

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Austin, Tx
      Posts
      489
      Country Flag: United States
      Something I only saw mentioned in one reply above... Add a fuel filter to the system. If I recall correctly, I believe there was a stud mount on the front of my tank where I attached the filter using line clamps. I used a small aluminum body filter (don't recall the exact brand).

      There is a special AN adapter fitting to go from the ZL1 pump to the hardline I believe. Someone else here will know exactly what you need (it's been years since I put my system together and no longer have the car).

      Regarding fitting brand, I think that's really up to you. You should be able to hardline from the pump output to a filter. Then perhaps a soft line from the filter output to the hardline along the frame rails. Make that pretty short. Hardline to the firewall then adapter to AN flex line from there. My hardline ended right at the firewall (we mindful of where your exhaust will run through there also, don't let the lines get too close).

      If you didn't already, discuss the location of the pressure sensor for the VaporWorx controlled with Carl. I mounted mine at the output of my filter, but I've sense read that it may be better to mount at the fuel rail. I already had 2 sensors on the rail (one for a gauge, one to my Holley EFI), so there wasn't much space there anyway. But plan for exactly where you want to mount that sensor (you'll need a special AN adapter which is like a union with a 1/8" NPT AN port I believe).

      The NiCop lines Andrew mentioned are the way to go in my opinion also. Much easier to work with than Stainless.

      Are you going to run subframe connectors? On my car, I had to route the hard line under the SFC which meant they were a low point on my car. I never really liked that, and sure enough I managed to pinch the line once with a jack due to poor jack placement. Think about how you might route in a different way to avoid having the hardline be a low point. Might be best to just run them up the floor itself and not along the frame rail (I think that's what Steilow did on his latest project, but I might be thinking of another car).

      Only use the smooth radius AN fittings if you need to create a bend, don't use the forged fittings (I think that's what they are called) which have hard 90* bored into them. Those are bad for flow.

      Oh, speak to Rick's about making sure your tank is vented so that you don't have any fill issues. I believe the suggestion is to run a balance vent line from the front side of the tank to the filler tube. I didn't have that on mine (again, purchased well before this was discussed) and I would sometimes push fuel through my II Much vent and have trouble getting the tank full. There have been discussions on this topic in the last couple of years (here or at LatG).

      Hopefully some of this rambling helps. Various things I ran into on my own setup... Good luck!
      Bryan (a.k.a. Carbuff)

      70 Camaro RS Hunk'o'Metal - Previous Project
      71 Firebird Project T.O.W. - New Project

    11. #31
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,572
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by carbuff View Post
      .....

      Only use the smooth radius AN fittings if you need to create a bend, don't use the forged fittings (I think that's what they are called) which have hard 90* bored into them. Those are bad for flow.

      ....
      Excellent point and advice that should be followed.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    12. #32
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      3,759
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Shawn0331 View Post
      Would you still need the controller if you are using a factory GM ECU?
      Generally speaking yes.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain

    13. #33
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      5,721
      Country Flag: United States
      I believe JP has used the OEM fan controller. Not sure on the FSCM.

      No external filter is needed when using the modern fuel modules. A fine element filter is part of the assembly. It won't hurt to have another but it's redundant and adds costs.
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    14. #34
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      474
      Get this kit as well. Will make your life easier.

      https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/produ...outlet-kit-45/

      I’m in the process of fabbing hardlines for my 69 Camaro. I can shoot you a few pics when I’m done. Probably end of next week. I’m also working on running trans oil lines to radiator. I can post up those pics as well.

    15. #35
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      1,235
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by carbuff View Post
      If you didn't already, discuss the location of the pressure sensor for the VaporWorx controlled with Carl. I mounted mine at the output of my filter, but I've sense read that it may be better to mount at the fuel rail. I already had 2 sensors on the rail (one for a gauge, one to my Holley EFI), so there wasn't much space there anyway. But plan for exactly where you want to mount that sensor (you'll need a special AN adapter which is like a union with a 1/8" NPT AN port I believe).

      The pressure sensor for the PWM controller needs to be mounted as close to the fuel pump as possible. You can mount it first thing right out of the pump. Carl included the fittings needed and there is enough room on top of the tank to do so with the recess on top of the stainless tank from Ricks. I don't know about the Restomod model.

    16. #36
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      3,759
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by CarlC View Post
      I believe JP has used the OEM fan controller. Not sure on the FSCM.

      No external filter is needed when using the modern fuel modules. A fine element filter is part of the assembly. It won't hurt to have another but it's redundant and adds costs.
      Doh! You are correct. I got my PWMs mixed up. Sorry for any confusion. I edited my nonsense.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain

    17. #37
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Austin, Tx
      Posts
      489
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by John McIntire View Post
      The pressure sensor for the PWM controller needs to be mounted as close to the fuel pump as possible. You can mount it first thing right out of the pump. Carl included the fittings needed and there is enough room on top of the tank to do so with the recess on top of the stainless tank from Ricks. I don't know about the Restomod model.
      Hmm, that's not how I remember it, but perhaps recommendations have changed. I know that at WOT my system would drop pressure at the rails according to my dash gauge and my Holley EFI logging when targeting 58 PSI (it would end as low as 52-53 PSI) but maintained a nice 58 PSI during idle and part throttle conditions.
      Bryan (a.k.a. Carbuff)

      70 Camaro RS Hunk'o'Metal - Previous Project
      71 Firebird Project T.O.W. - New Project

    Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2