UMI Front Chassis Brace - Any user feedback?

[67-LS1]

I’ve asked this same question over at Team Chevelle too.
I’m chasing a noise in the front of my 66 Chevelle that I can only guess is coming from chassis flex. I’ve tried everything and can’t seem to get rid of the noise.
I noticed that UMI offers a front frame brace that ties the two sway bar mounts together and I’m wondering if anyone has used one and can offer some feed back.
There was also a more triangulated front frame brace offered by SC&C and also by a PT member. The PT member doesn’t offer them for 64-67 and I understand doing business with SC&C is beyond risky at this point. Anyone have any experience with either of these braces

[71OLDS]

I'm running the SC&C Chassis brace on my 71 442 convertible - made a HUGE difference in steering response and handling.







details from site: The front frame horns on 64-72 GM A-bodies were left without a crossmember and the bumper can’t do the job. The result is a frame that deflects under heavy loads and a steering box that’s hanging out there imparting all it’s steering load on just one frame rail. SC&C’s heavy duty tubular chassis brace fixes that factory oversight. It bolts under the chassis with large 1.25″ diameter, 120″ wall 1026 steel tubing welded into a triangulated and gusseted structure that ties the two frame rails firmly together. You’ll notice an instant improvement in steering response, chassis stiffness, handling, and a welcome reduction in squeaks and rattles. Includes mounting hardware and instructions. - make sure you check to see if your front sway bar will work with this brace - some won't.

I've purchased all my suspension parts (thousands of dollars) front and rear from Mark at SC&C over the last few years and never had anything but a good experience. His advice, suggestions, and parts completely transformed my 442. It's improved in street and highway cruising, 1/8 mile and 1/4 mile performance, and autocross & handling. Everything is fully adjustable depending on what I want to set it up for. I understand others have had issues and there is some bad press right now about SC&C but I can only speak for myself.

[67-LS1]

That’s the bar I’m looking for. Can I ask how that attaches to the K member? Did you tap the steel or add a nut seat or ??
Bad press is an understatement. He’s getting knocked pretty bad everywhere. It’s too bad. He’s an intelligent guy.

[71OLDS]

Sorry not sure on the details for the K member attachment. It was done by the shop who does the work for me when the rest of the front suspension was completed. I was told it went on with no issues and as mentioned it comes with mounting hardware and instructions. I'm sure Mark could tell you if you give him a call.

[Typhoon1015]

I have been selling the UMI bar to customers, it improves the majority of the flex from the frame horns. The Staviske bar is better on paper, however I have heard he is out of business and not a good choice to send $$ . If there is interest I may look into making a full triangulated bar for a 66 chassis off my own.

[67-LS1]

I too have a 66 Chevelle but looking at it closer I may be to low for one of these. I’m thinking of making one too but going over the top of the sway bar.
Here are a couple pics of mine with a piece of scrap aluminum across the frame horns a couple inches behind my radiator. You can see how low I’d need to go to go under the sway bar.

[qwk406]

Unfortunately it seems as if Mark has closed down. I never received my $1,200 in parts ordered in July '20 and all attempts to get in touch with him have failed. It's a shame because he used to be great to deal with and is a tremendous encyclopedia of suspension knowledge.
No use in bashing him, does no one any good, we all know this past year hurt a lot of businesses.

[CapSS92]

I just installed the UMI on my 65 and I was surprised at how fast it went on. Finished in about 15 minutes. Definitely felt different afterwards. Firmer, I would say. Overall I am happy with it. I wanted to get the triangulated one but had heard about too many company issues so I went with the UMI one.

[t72ss402]

I installed both the front and the rear shock tower brace on my 79 Malibu and absolutely love them. I do plan on running their braces on my 72 Chevelle along with their stage 2.5 handling kit.

[67-LS1]

Good to here some positive results. I swear I can hear body panels flexing in the front of my 66. I’m almost to the point of pulling the frame (again) to box and reinforce it. Maybe I’ll try one of these first.

[raustinss]

A suspension system cant work properly unless it has a solid mounting . So the idea of stiffing the frame are 100 percent right

[67-LS1]

A suspension system cant work properly unless it has a solid mounting . So the idea of stiffing the frame are 100 percent right

Yeah, I so regret not boxing the frame while the body was off. A complete brain fart.

I’m guessing I could separate the body from the frame in a day. I have a two post lift.
I could leave all the of the suspension/engine/trans/exhaust in place on the frame.
A day of fitting and welding/grinding the reinforcements and a couple days putting it all back together.
So basically a week long project.
Plus 30-45 days for unforeseen issues.....

[chevelletiger]

Hi I'm the member who makes the braces,Hold tight will be making the 66 -67 braces soo.

There a member from socal that is helping me with his Frame so I can make a jig for his.
I heard a dse spline bar clears with my brace and a Hotchkiss 1,250.

[chevelletiger]

Yeah, I so regret not boxing the frame while the body was off. A complete brain fart.

I’m guessing I could separate the body from the frame in a day. I have a two post lift.
I could leave all the of the suspension/engine/trans/exhaust in place on the frame.
A day of fitting and welding/grinding the reinforcements and a couple days putting it all back together.
So basically a week long project.
Plus 30-45 days for unforeseen issues.....

You can box the frame with the body on,just have it on wheel cribs.
Not to bad to do.
Buy 1/8 flat bar x 3.00 I think or for and cut it with a cutoff wheel on a 4.5 grinder. Pretty easy and cost affective.
Use poster board taped together and trace it to the frame.

[chevelletiger]

That’s the bar I’m looking for. Can I ask how that attaches to the K member? Did you tap the steel or add a nut seat or ??
Bad press is an understatement. He’s getting knocked pretty bad everywhere. It’s too bad. He’s an intelligent guy.

The upper horns of frame get a thru hole drilled,the frame crossmember gets drilled and tapped.
Cheers 🍻