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    Results 1 to 6 of 6
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2021
      Posts
      4

      2005 4l65e rebuild help

      Howdy, new to the site and new to transmission rebuilding as well. Thanks to Transmission Bench on YouTube I'm able to speak on this subject with any kind of intelligence and knowledge, but still learning.
      As the title says it's a 4l65e I'm rebuilding. To start...4mo ago 4th gear just slipped. That was the only problem and the researcher that followed informed me of the 3/4 clutch burn up facing these transmissions. So being financially challenged if I was gonna drive my car again I'd have to fix it myself...which I did. I did a sonnax shell, wide bushing, an added check ball in the case, pinless pistons, kolene steels and red clutches. Sonnax powerpack and all new seals to finish it off.
      I cant believe it but put it back in and the damn thing would actually drive! Cant tell u how proud I felt. Until....taking my jealous brother, whom I bought the car from, on a rude at about 2500 miles in on my rebuild and at a wide open shift into 3rd at around 90mph, POW!!!!, something broke. Cruising down from 100mph engine still idling....can tev it, but not doing anything. No crunching of gears or parts. No smoke. Not even fluid dripping anywhere....engine just quietly running away sitting at idle speed....to make it short all yall have already said outloud what it was......input shaft or input drum. And yup. Shaft was fine, the drum....not so much.
      To go quickly now, I ordered a new, loaded sonnax modified input drum with a powerpak. Took it apart, reused clutches, new pistons and seals, but added sonnax 2-3 shift valve where I had to drill a hole in the VB to get overrun(I think) to apply during D3 driving whereas gm eliminated this at the end of 700r4. Bought a stock rebuild converter at advance auto and put it all back together....and now. It runs like ****. By that I mean it will stall the engine if I put on the brakes as if it was a standard shift. Doesn't want to shift into 3rd or 4th. Basically had 1st and 2nd only. So I take VB off to make sure I didnt install a valve incorrectly and I bought a new pwm solenoid and a tcc solenoid, and made sure that the new 2-3 shifter valve wasnt stuck. Just put it back together and same thing. No improvement but now I got like 6 CEL codes.
      So what happen? Is the converter I bought junk? Is the 2-3 shift valve and hole drilled in the VB per sonnax the problem?
      Oh yeah I forgot. I bought a sonnax boost valve.....the long one. 1.9 or something. the previous one was a short one. But I'm very confused. 2005 is the switching yr on this valve. Per sonnax website the short one I put in 2k miles ago should be wrong. So I ordered the long one....and now I'm having all these problems....is this the root cause?

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      San Antonio, Texas
      Posts
      218
      If it stalls when the brake is applied the TC is staying locked. Unplug the trans connector and see if it still stalls. 1st and 2nd only and no third or 4th is probably a 3/4 clutch problem.
      1968 Camaro - LS1/T56,martz chassis,19x10/18x8 Budniks,245/45/18,295/35/19 {Sold}

      71 Firebird - Speedtech Extreme Subframe/Torque Arm, LS3/4L80E, Budniks 19x12/18x10, 325/35/19, 295/35/18

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Feb 2021
      Posts
      4
      Thanks for the reply. I will try unplugging the connector and report back. As of now it wont shift into 3 or 4th. I hit a junk yard and got a replacement wire harness and I switched out the long boost valve in place for the one I took out from the previous build, which as I stated ran fine for 2k miles until the input drum broke. With the switch no change at all. And with the brakes appliesnis the transmission supposed to see 12 volts? Or does it need to see 12 volts WITHOUT brakes applied? And for some reason I think the 2005 gto factory 12 volts applied was backwards from other gm 4l60e wiring. I'll have to find the gto diagrams and see if its 12v on or off the brake.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      San Antonio, Texas
      Posts
      218
      the pink wire at connector (Pin E) needs at minimum 9.6volt constant with the key on and cranking. If voltage drops below 9.6volts it will go into limp mode.
      1968 Camaro - LS1/T56,martz chassis,19x10/18x8 Budniks,245/45/18,295/35/19 {Sold}

      71 Firebird - Speedtech Extreme Subframe/Torque Arm, LS3/4L80E, Budniks 19x12/18x10, 325/35/19, 295/35/18

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Feb 2021
      Posts
      4
      Ok. I'll check that, but b4 I broke the input shaft after the 1st rebuild everything was dine and I haven't messed with any of the wiring during this rebuild so I don't see how there could be a problem there since I've put 11k miles on the car with the swap motor and 2k miles after the 3-4 clutch burn ups' rebuild.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Feb 2021
      Posts
      4
      Recalling now that I have 2 wires requesting brake signal. One by the E40 pcm and one by the tcm. During the build I recall being uncertain if I was to give each computer 12v with brakes on or brake off. Or if each needed their own, but different signal.
      I had them both to get 12v with brakes applied, but just switched them to get 12v without brakes applied with no change in my transmission problem.







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