Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register



    Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
    Results 1 to 20 of 21
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Sunny Calif
      Posts
      307
      Country Flag: United States

      416 Forged TVS2300 Build recommendations

      Its Time, after putting #1 and #2 rods through both sides of the block of my 1,500 mile, 11:1, BTR stage 2 cammed, 525 hp LS3. Looking to finally build my stroker LSA daily driver. Looking for cam advice, 416" with Positive Displacement supercharger, piston ring gaps top and bottom, pulley sizes, shooting for 10 to 12 lbs total boost. Is there a better head for this for same cash or less?

      Will salvage misc tin from prev engine as well as cable throttle body-90mm Edelbrock, coils, sensors, etc.
      Does anyone have a known working parts list recommendations other than what I've listed for a daily driver? 300 mile loops out to Huntington and New Port beach, Sunday cruise to the old fart cafe and occasional quartermile grudge match at Famoso Dragway. Really looking for low end grunt cuz that's where i realistically drive the car, stop light to stop light maybe a couple of 30 rolls on rare occasion and 2 to 4 hour drives out of town with the AC on and cruise control set to 75.

      Trans is 4l80, yank 3200 stall, built 3:73 rear gear 10 bolt, 26" tall 275 40 18 michelin SS on all four corners, 3860# 68 Camaro Convertible. fuel pump is is 255 liter per hr walboro, should i upgrade to 350?


      HOT Deal: WISECO & K1 4.00" Stroker Rotating Assembly Combo for LS-based Engines - BIG Savings!

      Crankshaft Reluctor: 24x, Part #012FAE40024, Piston Set: 4.070 Bore, -15cc Dish (#K445X7) (+$80.00), Wrist Pins: Tool Steel Wrist Pins (+$176.00)
      Edit OptionsRemove

      $2,235.99

      $2,235.99






      AFR 260cc LSX Mongoose Strip Aluminum 4 Bolt Cylinder Heads w/ 69cc chambers

      Remove



      $2,599.00

      $2,599.00



      Innovators West 8-Rib Harmonic Balancer for LSX 8-Rib Harmonic Damper for F-Body & GTO - 10% Overdrive

      Add Crank Pinning Kit for Stock Crankshaft?: Yes (+$75.00), Upgrade to Dual Keyway?: No, Upgrade to Superduty Hub?: No
      Edit OptionsRemove

      $583.75

      $583.75



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jul 2019
      Location
      Ohio
      Posts
      313
      Country Flag: United States
      Bummer on the LS3 failure - not to drag this off topic, but any idea what caused it?

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      1,364
      Country Flag: Canada
      a tvs2300 is easily out of steam on a 364, let alone a 416.
      Id be doing a kong or maggie 2650.

      Thats my opinion.

      edit: 255 pump wont cut it.

      If youre dead set on an intank setup, Id look at running a walbro 450 or the hellcat walbro 525 pump. Super reliable. If you are on E-85 you'll need more pump and injector compared to gas.

      What block are you starting from? If stock block/sleeve I wouldn't stroke it.

      Id sell the 90mm throttle body and put a 102mm on it. Blowers need big TBs.
      Matt
      72 Chevelle 370ci, 76mm single turbo, TKX, Speedtech Track Time, Millerbuilt Strange full floater 9", Brembo brakes, BC Forged 18x11s with 315s square
      Instagram: Cst_koon

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2020
      Posts
      199
      Also the long stroke can reduce reliability as the factory cylinder bores do not adequately support the piston at the bottom of stroke.
      Aftermarket blocks & re-sleeved versions with extended sleeves are better for long strokes.


      With forced induction, I prefer a stock stroke unless going with an aftermarket/sleeved block.
      The capability of the charger will determine the HP & torque much more than the engine size.

      Your fuel pump is only good to 550rwhp.... a TVS2300 is good for about 900hp.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2017
      Location
      PC Beach, FL
      Posts
      23
      Country Flag: United States
      I agree with the recommendations above. Since reliability and longevity are factors in this build and will see significant mileage, I recommend sticking with a stock stroke with forged rods and pistons and get a blower/compressor that will support the horsepower you intend to make. Don't get caught up with psi boost numbers as it is only a measure of intake restriction, not actual airflow. For forced induction the head does not make as much of a difference as on an NA engine. A better flowing head may decrease boost for a given pulley ratio but the supercharger's rotor speed and size are dictating the cfm therefore power production. If 15+psi is needed to make the desired power, I recommend an aftermarket as-cast offering for the increased deck thickness. Otherwise a worked stock casting will do just as well especially since you plan to use studs.

      Open up the intake track into the blower as much as you can to reduce pumping losses in the blower/compressor. This will help with power plateaus at rpm and decrease IATs. Speaking of IATs, on a top mount roots/twin-screw, don't skimp on the cooling system. Get the largest heat exchanger you can fit up front along with a good flowing pump.

      2000 Silverado RCSB

      Built 6.1L / Kenne Bell 2.8L / 4L80E / Suspension

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Sunny Calif
      Posts
      307
      Country Flag: United States
      Now that's what I'm looking for Gents, quality advice that makes sense, thx much.

      5 Hours Ago
      protour_chevelle
      I was looking to purchase new LSA block for block integrity and piston oil squinters cooling purposes but from the sound of it, as per Lonnies Performance point, with 4" stroke I would be defeating that purpose by taking the piston lower in the cylinder bore, reducing reliability in a totally different area of the OEM LSA block.

      Plan B? same plan minus the stroke, OR ditch buying a new LSA block and use a new ATK LQ9 6.0 iron block I was saving for a different build. Do i want another 100 lbs of weight on the nose of my 3860 lb car?

      protour_chevelle, I did look at the KONG 2650 thought it would be over kill, now considering not stroking new LSA or maybe LQ9 6.0 is 2300 Heartbeat still in play? or just not worth the money. I would like to keep the engine height to a min if feasible but not if going to impair the performance
      fuel pump, so I have RicksRestoMod return less tank and can swap for any of the following but would I be installing a new -8AN line all the way up to intake just to choke it down to -6AM fuel rails?
      Injectors at a min 60 lb./hr. should put me at approx. 80% duty cycle for max 700hp at the crank.
      Wont be running E85 anytime soon, not readily available here.
      102mm TB, understood.


      • 340 LPH Pump
        700 HP EFI – Forced Induction
      • 450 LPH Pump800 HP EFI Forced Induction
      • 525 LPH Pump900 HP EFI Forced Induction



      SRODE
      Looks like #2 rods separated, bent both valves but didn't touch the cylinder head pockets at all.
      #1 rod got took out by 2 and sheared a bolt off the cap a the crank journal, or visa versa at this point.

      all remaining bearing surfaces were cherry with zero signs of wear so lubrication was not the issue, no water in oil whatsoever so zero overheating, so other than plain ol rod failure i cant attribute it to anything else. Rods were stock powdered metal LS2 rods, i know should have upgraded when i built it the first time just had too much confidence in OEM since i see many here making stupid power on them with no negative affects, so i get to be THE ONE guy that grenades them.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Sunny Calif
      Posts
      307
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Big_KID View Post
      I agree with the recommendations above. Since reliability and longevity are factors in this build and will see significant mileage, I recommend sticking with a stock stroke with forged rods and pistons and get a blower/compressor that will support the horsepower you intend to make. Don't get caught up with psi boost numbers as it is only a measure of intake restriction, not actual airflow. For forced induction the head does not make as much of a difference as on an NA engine. A better flowing head may decrease boost for a given pulley ratio but the supercharger's rotor speed and size are dictating the cfm therefore power production. If 15+psi is needed to make the desired power, I recommend an aftermarket as-cast offering for the increased deck thickness. Otherwise a worked stock casting will do just as well especially since you plan to use studs.

      Open up the intake track into the blower as much as you can to reduce pumping losses in the blower/compressor. This will help with power plateaus at rpm and decrease IATs. Speaking of IATs, on a top mount roots/twin-screw, don't skimp on the cooling system. Get the largest heat exchanger you can fit up front along with a good flowing pump.

      Kid,
      so as if I understand correctly, with forced induction i can run my current "as cast" LS3/L92 heads? they are back valve ported, 5 angle valve job, and hand exhaust port matched, i can port match the intake side to match the SC to lower turbulance, temps to promote flow/lower restriction. If so i can save some beans and put toward other part of build.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      The LSA block is worth it because it has piston squirters. The LSA crank is also a forged part, and is very good.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Mar 2020
      Posts
      199
      It all depneds on your power expectations... An LSA block, although rather stout, will suffer from some block movement at high power levels.
      It depends on how high you push the power & how often.

      I have a fully built turbo build here with an LSA block (crank rods, pistons, studs etc) that is over 850rwhp (with stock ported LS3 heads), but it will not last forever like this.

      My only contradiction to above, is get the best heads, as this will make power with less boost, heat & stress on the engine.
      The AFR, although good are small for the blower combination. Typically guys go for larger ports in the 275 & up range.
      Frankenstein has a great flowing head for reasonable cost for a boosted application.

      What you need to do is set a realistic HP goal & determine everything from there.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Sunny Calif
      Posts
      307
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Lonnies Performance View Post
      It all depneds on your power expectations... An LSA block, although rather stout, will suffer from some block movement at high power levels.
      It depends on how high you push the power & how often.

      I have a fully built turbo build here with an LSA block (crank rods, pistons, studs etc) that is over 850rwhp (with stock ported LS3 heads), but it will not last forever like this.

      My only contradiction to above, is get the best heads, as this will make power with less boost, heat & stress on the engine.
      The AFR, although good are small for the blower combination. Typically guys go for larger ports in the 275 & up range.
      Frankenstein has a great flowing head for reasonable cost for a boosted application.

      What you need to do is set a realistic HP goal & determine everything from there.


      The goal, Guessing 700hp at the crank 600hp at the wheels tame enough for 75mph frwy cruise ability on 4l80 auto and 3:73 R&P.
      Must have 500 ft lbs of Stoplight to stoplight torque all in by 3800 rpm for that pesky big turboed, flyweight carcasses buzzing around my parts.
      I think of it as a production LSA set up with a bit more hp/torque but better internals for longevity.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Sunny Calif
      Posts
      307
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      The LSA block is worth it because it has piston squirters. The LSA crank is also a forged part, and is very good.

      Andrew
      Andrew,
      So OEM LSA block and crank with better rods and pistons?
      A set of higher flowing heads such as Lonnie suggested " Frankenstein 275's " coupled with a 2650 tvs sc may be the ticket for my hp/torque goals but more importantly retain some measure of OEM like longevity.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Mar 2020
      Posts
      199
      You are way overkill for 500ft. lb. & 600 wheel HP.
      A stock LSA will do this with just a pulley change & headers.

      A 2650 is a waste of money under 700rwhp.

      Maybe do some research on CTSVowners.com to see what is achieved with various combinations.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,584
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by MAGONSTERZ68 View Post
      The goal, Guessing 700hp at the crank 600hp at the wheels tame enough for 75mph frwy cruise ability on 4l80 auto and 3:73 R&P.
      Must have 500 ft lbs of Stoplight to stoplight torque all in by 3800 rpm for that pesky big turboed, flyweight carcasses buzzing around my parts.
      I think of it as a production LSA set up with a bit more hp/torque but better internals for longevity.
      Quote Originally Posted by Lonnies Performance View Post
      You are way overkill for 500ft. lb. & 600 wheel HP.
      A stock LSA will do this with just a pulley change & headers.

      A 2650 is a waste of money under 700rwhp.

      Maybe do some research on CTSVowners.com to see what is achieved with various combinations.
      OP, LonniesPerformance is right here. You can make 600whp with a stock LSA, BTR Stg 3-4 PDS and upper pulley swap somewhere in the 2.40 range. You should also definitely look into the 525 Hellcat fuel pump. Most guys seem to run out of fuel with these setups when chasing HP.
      Beside the ctsvowners group, the LSA Swap group on FB is very helpful
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      1,364
      Country Flag: Canada
      With your power goals... Id stay LSA block, put a good trick flow as cast head on it or a Frankenstein piece.

      A stock ported LSA blower would make those numbers easily. The Maggie 2300 will make those numbers easily too, I have a beef with Magnusson as they are very hit and miss on delivery. A kong 2650 would be my go to personally.

      60lb injectors on gas will support your goals, Id do injector dynamics 1000cc or 1050x injectors. Lower base pressure, allows you to squeeze more out of the fuel pump power wise, fantastic control and spray pattern.

      The original post and parts details made me think you were wanting to do a max effort, stock block, high mile build. Like 1000-1200rwhp.

      - - - Updated - - -

      Quote Originally Posted by Lonnies Performance View Post
      A 2650 is a waste of money under 700rwhp.
      I agree, but choosing between a maggie 2300 and 2650 brand new... Id 100% be spending my money on a 2650
      Matt
      72 Chevelle 370ci, 76mm single turbo, TKX, Speedtech Track Time, Millerbuilt Strange full floater 9", Brembo brakes, BC Forged 18x11s with 315s square
      Instagram: Cst_koon

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Sunny Calif
      Posts
      307
      Country Flag: United States

      grocery list

      Quote Originally Posted by protour_chevelle View Post
      With your power goals... Id stay LSA block, put a good trick flow as cast head on it or a Frankenstein piece.

      A stock ported LSA blower would make those numbers easily. The Maggie 2300 will make those numbers easily too, I have a beef with Magnusson as they are very hit and miss on delivery. A kong 2650 would be my go to personally.

      60lb injectors on gas will support your goals, Id do injector dynamics 1000cc or 1050x injectors. Lower base pressure, allows you to squeeze more out of the fuel pump power wise, fantastic control and spray pattern.

      The original post and parts details made me think you were wanting to do a max effort, stock block, high mile build. Like 1000-1200rwhp.

      - - - Updated - - -



      I agree, but choosing between a maggie 2300 and 2650 brand new... Id 100% be spending my money on a 2650

      Sounds about right,
      A Non MAX effort build as i want to build a better version of a stock LSA with better guts, better huffer, add an extra 150 HP / 100 ft lbs of TQ low in the rpm band.
      Don't want to buy an LSX B15 block and throw a LSA on it when I think it can be reproduced stronger for same money or even a couple of G more.
      My apologies' but really don't want to do this twice and there is alot of real world build guys on here, thanks all,
      Whittled down to this Recipe?

      1. New LSA OEM block to take advantage of engineered block strength and piston cooling squirters.

      2. Forged crank STD 3.622 stroke. (doesn't pull piston out of cylinder bore support)

      3. Forged rods, STD length 6.098 (plenty of meat on top to keep heat out of rings and no pin to ringlan issues)

      4. Forged pistons 4.065" bore, 9.5 compression, tooled steel pins, extra 200, why not at this point. (Ring gap recommendation?)

      5. Kong 2650 more volume lower screw speeds = less heat, 100deg+ summers here in So. Cali

      6. As purposed injector dynamics 1000cc or 1050x injectors

      7. Kong in house PRC LS9 LS3 Aftermarket 6 bolt 260cc CNC cyl heads. Although Frankenstein makes a great case at 2400 a set for their M311 273cc LS3 Rectangle Cylinder Head-Complete Set w/Billet Rocker Stands

      8. Sell Edelbrock 90mm cable drive for 102mm

      9. LSA Cam Selection recommendations for 3200 stall 4l80. BTR LSA LS9 STAGE 2 227/242 - .614"/592" AT 122+6?

      10. Currently running OEM GM ZL1 pump, will have to upgrade, Weapon X has zero mod, drop in, twin 340 lph set up I'm considering for under 400 bucks plug and play.

      11. Biggest water to air heat exchanger I can make fit.

      would like to stay under 15k including intercooler and associated jewelry cutting it close.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Or....stock LT4 wet sump...

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Sunny Calif
      Posts
      307
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Or....stock LT4 wet sump...

      Andrew

      Entertained that idea as well but by the time I swap out ecu, ecu harness with pedal and add pwr steering and AC accessory drive ill be over 18k. im bumping the fence at 15.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by MAGONSTERZ68 View Post
      Entertained that idea as well but by the time I swap out ecu, ecu harness with pedal and add pwr steering and AC accessory drive ill be over 18k. im bumping the fence at 15.
      True...true...
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
      Posts
      1,364
      Country Flag: Canada
      Quote Originally Posted by MAGONSTERZ68 View Post
      Sounds about right,
      A Non MAX effort build as i want to build a better version of a stock LSA with better guts, better huffer, add an extra 150 HP / 100 ft lbs of TQ low in the rpm band.
      Don't want to buy an LSX B15 block and throw a LSA on it when I think it can be reproduced stronger for same money or even a couple of G more.
      My apologies' but really don't want to do this twice and there is alot of real world build guys on here, thanks all,
      Whittled down to this Recipe?

      1. New LSA OEM block to take advantage of engineered block strength and piston cooling squirters.

      2. Forged crank STD 3.622 stroke. (doesn't pull piston out of cylinder bore support)

      3. Forged rods, STD length 6.098 (plenty of meat on top to keep heat out of rings and no pin to ringlan issues)

      4. Forged pistons 4.065" bore, 9.5 compression, tooled steel pins, extra 200, why not at this point. (Ring gap recommendation?)

      5. Kong 2650 more volume lower screw speeds = less heat, 100deg+ summers here in So. Cali

      6. As purposed injector dynamics 1000cc or 1050x injectors

      7. Kong in house PRC LS9 LS3 Aftermarket 6 bolt 260cc CNC cyl heads. Although Frankenstein makes a great case at 2400 a set for their M311 273cc LS3 Rectangle Cylinder Head-Complete Set w/Billet Rocker Stands

      8. Sell Edelbrock 90mm cable drive for 102mm

      9. LSA Cam Selection recommendations for 3200 stall 4l80. BTR LSA LS9 STAGE 2 227/242 - .614"/592" AT 122+6?

      10. Currently running OEM GM ZL1 pump, will have to upgrade, Weapon X has zero mod, drop in, twin 340 lph set up I'm considering for under 400 bucks plug and play.

      11. Biggest water to air heat exchanger I can make fit.

      would like to stay under 15k including intercooler and associated jewelry cutting it close.
      That will be a fun build!
      Matt
      72 Chevelle 370ci, 76mm single turbo, TKX, Speedtech Track Time, Millerbuilt Strange full floater 9", Brembo brakes, BC Forged 18x11s with 315s square
      Instagram: Cst_koon

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Aug 2017
      Location
      PC Beach, FL
      Posts
      23
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by MAGONSTERZ68 View Post
      Kid,
      so as if I understand correctly, with forced induction i can run my current "as cast" LS3/L92 heads? they are back valve ported, 5 angle valve job, and hand exhaust port matched, i can port match the intake side to match the SC to lower turbulance, temps to promote flow/lower restriction. If so i can save some beans and put toward other part of build.
      I'm a little late getting back in the conversation but I'll answer anyway. IMO, those heads would be fine for what your goals are. For higher boost (15+psi) and max effort the increased deck thickness of an aftermarket head is extra insurance from lifting a head when used in conjunction with head studs and a little extra torque on the nuts. Considering these are rectangular port heads, I would wager a ported aftermarket offering would only drop manifold pressure a pound or less at the proposed power level of 700hp. Going from a hand ported 241(stock LS1) head to a TEA/TFS 245 (both cathedral ports) and a different cam grind reduced boost from 14 to 12psi with the same pulley configuration on my 6.0L/2.8L twin screw combo with no significant increase in peak rwhp.
      Matching the blower tub intake runners to the head is a worthy modification. Just be sure not to make the tub ports larger than the head ports as to not create a sharp wall that will create more turbulence.

      Just to add my two cents to the last combo spec'ed, there is nothing wrong with that combo but if budget is more of a consideration, the proposed 700chp can be reliably made with a LQ4, LS2 or LS3 block and a stock cast crank. Splurge on the fuel system and supercharger coolant system, turn up the boost and tune it conservatively. As already mentioned, even though the 2300 will support 700hp, go with the 2650 so it doesn't have to be spun as high thus reducing generated heat. On the flip side, there are those that say use the smallest blower to make desired boost at max rotor speed claiming it increases the response and low-end power production. Like everything in life, ultimately it comes down to compromises and what works best for you, your application and your situation.

      2000 Silverado RCSB

      Built 6.1L / Kenne Bell 2.8L / 4L80E / Suspension

    Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast




    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com