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    Results 1 to 10 of 10
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2021
      Location
      CA
      Posts
      19
      Country Flag: United States

      Hydraulic Clutch or Mechanical

      Hello All - First main post. In process of finishing my engine work and soon to be heading into paint.
      I have a 1975 Trans Am with a Tremec TKO 600 5-speed.

      The mechanical clutch works fine however I'm an older gentleman and was wondering if a Hydraulic Clutch would be worth the cost and make is easier to drive. The mechanical clutch pedal has to go to the floor to shift but wondering if a Hydraulic Clutch does not have to be pushed that far to shift. My only car with a stick is my 75 Trans Am so I don't have anything else to reference.

      Any recommendations or feedback, pros or cons, is appreciated.
      1975 4-Speed Pontiac Trans Am 400
      Blueprint/Balanced Stoker 462ci, Roller Cam/Rockers/Lifters
      Tremec TKO600 5-Speed
      Holley 870 Street Brawler, Dakota Digital RTX Firebird Gauges
      Stage 2 Ride Tech Coil Over, Wilwood 4-Wheel Brakes
      Global West Subframe, Vintage Air
      17" Year One Wheels, Digitails LEDs

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Portsmouth NH
      Posts
      247
      Country Flag: United States
      I think it depends on what kind of clutch setup up you need/want to run. Sounds like you have a nice torquey Pontiac there. If you have to run a HD heavy spring pressure plate and high friction disc in order to work with your engine, you might want to consider a hydraulic setup. They work nicely with heavy spring clutches and help reduce some pedal pressure if you set them up correctly.

      That said a well setup mechanical can be smooth as silk too. But the newer twin disc setups mostly use hydraulic slaves/bearings.

      I run a twin disc McLeod RST and could not be happier. No more chatter and grabby slow traffic stuff. Yet can easily handle what my engine can throw at it.

      If you go hydralic make sure to take the time and measure everything and get your clearance adjustments correct. Not doing this can lead to peddle throw problems. Use good parts and make sure to install a remote bleeder. You will not regret the extra time spend doing it correct the first time.

      Thats my 2 cents. I am sure many others here have even more helpful info.

      PS-Love that you are keeping it Pontiac.
      1969 Camaro (Small Tyre Restomod/mild Protour) 245/40/18 F, 275/35/18 R, stock frame, full Ridetech suspension, LS engine, T56 Mag, Wilwood Brakes. A driver car.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Hydraulic clutch actuation is a balancing act between pedal ratio, clutch MC bore, clutch MC stroke and the area of the slave piston.

      A typical diaphragm sprung clutch will generally require around .400"-.500" of bearing travel to achieve a clean release (this can be checked through the inspection cover on a Pontiac bellhousing with a feeler gauge between the disk and flywheel...generally a .090" gap is recommended).

      The smaller the bore of the MC, the higher the pressure generated, but this comes at the expense of longer stroke of the MC (and the pedal).

      The short answer is, yes, you can probably set-up a hydraulic clutch to have an easier pedal, but some careful planning and experimenting will be required.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2021
      Location
      CA
      Posts
      19
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Motobrewmaster View Post
      I think it depends on what kind of clutch setup up you need/want to run. Sounds like you have a nice torquey Pontiac there. If you have to run a HD heavy spring pressure plate and high friction disc in order to work with your engine, you might want to consider a hydraulic setup. They work nicely with heavy spring clutches and help reduce some pedal pressure if you set them up correctly.

      That said a well setup mechanical can be smooth as silk too. But the newer twin disc setups mostly use hydraulic slaves/bearings.

      I run a twin disc McLeod RST and could not be happier. No more chatter and grabby slow traffic stuff. Yet can easily handle what my engine can throw at it.

      If you go hydraulic make sure to take the time and measure everything and get your clearance adjustments correct. Not doing this can lead to peddle throw problems. Use good parts and make sure to install a remote bleeder. You will not regret the extra time spend doing it correct the first time.

      Thats my 2 cents. I am sure many others here have even more helpful info.

      PS-Love that you are keeping it Pontiac.
      Thank you - that is a good description. My mechanical is not too bad but I do have that chatter/grabby you mentioned as it does have a HD Science Friction clutch that was installed by the previous owner. Since I'm not doing much racing and more of a driver car, I'm looking to see if the hydraulic will help drivability. Appreciate the comments.
      1975 4-Speed Pontiac Trans Am 400
      Blueprint/Balanced Stoker 462ci, Roller Cam/Rockers/Lifters
      Tremec TKO600 5-Speed
      Holley 870 Street Brawler, Dakota Digital RTX Firebird Gauges
      Stage 2 Ride Tech Coil Over, Wilwood 4-Wheel Brakes
      Global West Subframe, Vintage Air
      17" Year One Wheels, Digitails LEDs

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jan 2021
      Location
      CA
      Posts
      19
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Hydraulic clutch actuation is a balancing act between pedal ratio, clutch MC bore, clutch MC stroke and the area of the slave piston.

      A typical diaphragm sprung clutch will generally require around .400"-.500" of bearing travel to achieve a clean release (this can be checked through the inspection cover on a Pontiac bellhousing with a feeler gauge between the disk and flywheel...generally a .090" gap is recommended).

      The smaller the bore of the MC, the higher the pressure generated, but this comes at the expense of longer stroke of the MC (and the pedal).

      The short answer is, yes, you can probably set-up a hydraulic clutch to have an easier pedal, but some careful planning and experimenting will be required.

      Andrew
      Thank you Andrew, since I won't be doing the install, this is good information. I see you do remote Holley EFI tuning. I may need some fine tuning done with my set up in the future. My tuner is local and good however has not been available due to personal illness.
      1975 4-Speed Pontiac Trans Am 400
      Blueprint/Balanced Stoker 462ci, Roller Cam/Rockers/Lifters
      Tremec TKO600 5-Speed
      Holley 870 Street Brawler, Dakota Digital RTX Firebird Gauges
      Stage 2 Ride Tech Coil Over, Wilwood 4-Wheel Brakes
      Global West Subframe, Vintage Air
      17" Year One Wheels, Digitails LEDs

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Bad75TA View Post
      Thank you Andrew, since I won't be doing the install, this is good information. I see you do remote Holley EFI tuning. I may need some fine tuning done with my set up in the future. My tuner is local and good however has not been available due to personal illness.
      Sent you a PM.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      641
      Couple of things that maybe could help before decide to convert.
      1. If you have enough push rod adjustment maybe adjust the pedal to engage higher and put in a pedal stop?
      2. Also maybe mod the clutch shaft arms for more leverage? Guys smarter than me on this site can say which arm to shorten or lengthen.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 79 Camaro View Post
      ...

      2. Also maybe mod the clutch shaft arms for more leverage? Guys smarter than me on this site can say which arm to shorten or lengthen.
      Lengthening the arm that is being pushed by the pedal will decrease effort, but increase pedal travel.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Posts
      799
      Country Flag: United States
      I've actually had a TKO with both a hydraulic and manual clutch. The hydraulic one was an XJ-S conversion from Keisler (fantastic, well engineered, late on delivery kit) and my current car has the manual linkage with a kevlar clutch. Chatter in reverse in the impala is horrible, I would say it's even not useable on too steep a grade (parking on the turn bank at Bristol, for example). Forward gears are never an issue. Pedal effort though, I've never really noticed a difference between the two cars.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jan 2021
      Location
      CA
      Posts
      19
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by JustJohn View Post
      I've actually had a TKO with both a hydraulic and manual clutch. The hydraulic one was an XJ-S conversion from Keisler (fantastic, well engineered, late on delivery kit) and my current car has the manual linkage with a kevlar clutch. Chatter in reverse in the impala is horrible, I would say it's even not useable on too steep a grade (parking on the turn bank at Bristol, for example). Forward gears are never an issue. Pedal effort though, I've never really noticed a difference between the two cars.
      Thank you John, Since you have had both on a TKO's, I assume you would you say then that the Hydraulic is superior and what you prefer?
      Currently I can manage the forward driving except when leaving from a stop as that does seem to have some minor chatter as well as steep grade as you mentioned.

      1975 4-Speed Pontiac Trans Am 400
      Blueprint/Balanced Stoker 462ci, Roller Cam/Rockers/Lifters
      Tremec TKO600 5-Speed
      Holley 870 Street Brawler, Dakota Digital RTX Firebird Gauges
      Stage 2 Ride Tech Coil Over, Wilwood 4-Wheel Brakes
      Global West Subframe, Vintage Air
      17" Year One Wheels, Digitails LEDs






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