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    Results 1 to 15 of 15
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      Bakersfield, CA
      Posts
      603
      Country Flag: United States

      Show quality paint job for my engine

      With my all aluminum 535ci Pontiac engine finally coming in from the builder in the coming months, I need to start putting together some knowledge on how I'm going to paint this beast. My goal is a super durable long-lasting show car quality paint job that will hopefully endure up to 50K road/HPDE miles. It's going to be a specific OEM color to match the exterior of my car (don't want to say the paint code).

      She is going to be all bare aluminum so I won't have to remove any existing paint or primer. The intake, valve covers, valley pan, and oil pan will all be removed leaving basically a long block with the aluminum Pontiac timing chain cover. I will be painting it at a friends who does have a proper spray gun/air compressor but doing it all on my own. I have some Green Frog edging tape which is fantastic for clean paint lines and regular blue painters tape for inside of that. The intake will be getting a black heat dispersant coating applied which will match my throttle body. The valve covers, valley pan, and oil pan are all black as well.

      1) Metal clean and prep. I have the POR 15 2 part kit, but I'm not sure it's the best for aluminum? I have some Eastwood Aluminum prep in aerosol, is that good? What solvent should I use to wipe it all down with prior to using the final aluminum prep, denatured alcohol? Is a toothbrush or a soft wire brush best (what metal?)?

      2) I want to fill the accessory holes at the front of the heads that will not be getting utilized by my serpentine belt system, what's the proper filler to use?

      3) Primer. I was told to use a metal etching epoxy primer. Any suggestions on what brand?

      4) Color. It was suggested to use a high-temp ceramic engine paint or a high temp 2K. I think since it will be a custom color (far as engine paints go), I'll need to use a 2K. Who online can mix me a high temp 2K in an OEM paint code?

      5) Clear. It was recommended to use a high temp ceramic clear over a 2K. What are the best out there that won't tint the color or yellow with high temps and use?

      What do you think on the coats; 1-2 of primer (bare minimum for coverage), 2 of color, and 2 of clear?

      I really want to paint the heads but I'm also worried about the typical paint fade at the exhaust ports on Pontiac heads, especially the center 2. Should I just go bare aluminum for the sake of the paint not looking like crap here, or are there available modern products so I can go ahead and paint it which will handle the heat? Remember, this car will be getting used on road courses in very high heat conditions and my headers will be wrapped for underhood temp mitigation. - If I must leave my heads unpainted, then I have the issue of the exposed filler in the un-used accessory bolt holes.


      I'm open to any and all suggestions from the experts here. I also need a recommendation on what sort of cleaner to use to keep it as clean as possible over the 50K I anticipate putting on it prior to engine refresh.

      Thanks!!!
      http://www.TheFOAT.com/92GTA
      1969 Pontiac Firebird
      w/535ci IAII aluminum block, Dailey dry sump, Holley EFI (full road race build). Primer black w/black interior.
      1992 Pontiac Trans Am GTA w/SLP Performance Package. Dark Jade Grey Metallic, grey leather, T-Tops.

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,488
      Country Flag: United States
      Not an expert but this is not the path I would take. Epoxy is not metal etching. In fact most epoxies will fail if applied over an acid film.

      Clean and degrease. Acid products need to be properly neutralized. SPI water based and solvent based wax and grease removers are affordable high quality parts
      Scuff to give a tooth for good adhesion
      Epoxy primer, two to three coats. SPI epoxy is my choice
      2k urethane Base coat, two or three coats
      Two or three coats of high quality clear. Again, SPI Universal is my choice.

      Heads will discolor around exhaust ports no matter what you do imho.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      Bakersfield, CA
      Posts
      603
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks. That all makes sense, appreciate you pointing out the incompatibility issues.

      Yeah, I was afraid they would discolor no matter what. Guess I have a decision to make on if I leave them bare or not. I'll probably paint them tho and just block the exhaust port discoloration from my mind lol.
      http://www.TheFOAT.com/92GTA
      1969 Pontiac Firebird
      w/535ci IAII aluminum block, Dailey dry sump, Holley EFI (full road race build). Primer black w/black interior.
      1992 Pontiac Trans Am GTA w/SLP Performance Package. Dark Jade Grey Metallic, grey leather, T-Tops.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,488
      Country Flag: United States
      Make sure you apply the base coat within the recoat window of the epoxy primer for best adhesion. Also activate the basecoat for best adhesion.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      Bakersfield, CA
      Posts
      603
      Country Flag: United States
      Will do.

      So I don't need a special high temp 2K or clear? Just standard automotive body paint stuff?
      http://www.TheFOAT.com/92GTA
      1969 Pontiac Firebird
      w/535ci IAII aluminum block, Dailey dry sump, Holley EFI (full road race build). Primer black w/black interior.
      1992 Pontiac Trans Am GTA w/SLP Performance Package. Dark Jade Grey Metallic, grey leather, T-Tops.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,488
      Country Flag: United States
      It’s what is done in most shops and stands up well. Key is proper process and application. Pay attention to flash times. On an engine I would wait over nite between base and clear.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Mar 2020
      Posts
      199
      My only question is you have a high dollar all aluminum engine... and you want to paint it to look like a normal cast iron engine.

      I understand the need to camouflage if you are street racing, but left bare, I would be the first to notice & say "Wow, that's an aluminum block".
      I have painted junkyard LS1 engines that were ugly, but I could not even do that to my new LS3 crate engine. It only has a light coat of satin clear for protection.

      Personally I would want to show it off by leaving it natural & maybe clear coating it for oxidation resistance... & not do the heads around the exhaust ports, so the paint does not discolor. To me no paint looks better than burnt paint on a very visible part of the engine. My Olds 442 disturbs me every time I see the discolored paint on the exhaust ports, but it is a factory iron head.

      Here is an LS3 that has been in my Firebird for over 6 years & is now getting repurposed for a 3rd time. It still looks virtually like the day I originally installed it.
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    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      Bakersfield, CA
      Posts
      603
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Lonnies Performance View Post
      My only question is you have a high dollar all aluminum engine... and you want to paint it to look like a normal cast iron engine.

      I understand the need to camouflage if you are street racing, but left bare, I would be the first to notice & say "Wow, that's an aluminum block".
      I have painted junkyard LS1 engines that were ugly, but I could not even do that to my new LS3 crate engine. It only has a light coat of satin clear for protection.

      Personally I would want to show it off by leaving it natural & maybe clear coating it for oxidation resistance... & not do the heads around the exhaust ports, so the paint does not discolor. To me no paint looks better than burnt paint on a very visible part of the engine. My Olds 442 disturbs me every time I see the discolored paint on the exhaust ports, but it is a factory iron head.

      Well, I went aluminum aftermarket Pontiac block route for the sake of weight on the front end. I'm also going for a certain look that's consistent throughout my car. Painting only the block or not at all would not IMO look good with all of the other parts I have that are black, especially given the color of the car. I even went the extra mile and had the builder remove any branding/logos on the heads, intake, and valve covers. I've even spent months Cerakoting every last washer and fastener that would be visible under the hood so I'm pretty invested in following through with my aesthetic vision.

      I think if I stray at all, I'll leave the heads bare and not have the intake coated with the black thermal dispersant coating. Leaving those the only bare metal I suppose would be an acceptable compromise simply to avoid the discoloration.
      http://www.TheFOAT.com/92GTA
      1969 Pontiac Firebird
      w/535ci IAII aluminum block, Dailey dry sump, Holley EFI (full road race build). Primer black w/black interior.
      1992 Pontiac Trans Am GTA w/SLP Performance Package. Dark Jade Grey Metallic, grey leather, T-Tops.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Location
      nw phx
      Posts
      178
      i've painted dozens of engines over the years, 5 just last year. Kandies, pearls, body color.. clean the metal. scuff the metal with some grey scotch bright. i actually use glass bead sand blasting to etch, but do what you can. clean well, DTA expoy primer (dta = direct to metal) let sit for 24hrs (instructions) then spray your base and clear.
      ...life is too short, live for today, tomorrow isn't guaranteed

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      Bakersfield, CA
      Posts
      603
      Country Flag: United States
      I've searched and come across a couple of companies offering custom color high heat (1,000-1,200F) in a silicone resin. This sounds perfect considering also the slight expansion and contraction of the aluminum block and heads over each extended service interval of the engine (50K miles hopefully!). They also offer their own specific compatible primers.

      https://highland-international.com/8...icone-coating/

      https://www.highheatpaints.com/


      Thoughts on products such as these? Sounds like they would allow the paint around the exhaust ports to hold up much better.
      http://www.TheFOAT.com/92GTA
      1969 Pontiac Firebird
      w/535ci IAII aluminum block, Dailey dry sump, Holley EFI (full road race build). Primer black w/black interior.
      1992 Pontiac Trans Am GTA w/SLP Performance Package. Dark Jade Grey Metallic, grey leather, T-Tops.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      May 2011
      Location
      Canada!
      Posts
      48
      Country Flag: Canada
      No no no, what are you thinking wanting to do it properly? Just use a shop rag with some brake clean and a spray bomb high temp paint and it will totally last.......

      hahaha - Anyway, the advice above has been sound. Like the others have said prep is key. We have a 1980 firebird that was painted the pontiac blue and I honestly dont mind the discoloration around the heads exhaust ports, means we use it.
      If you dont want that just leave the heads bare, no matter what paint you use it will discolour. Just look at Butler's engine gallery line up. Painting the block black is kind of meh imo unless you go all out like what nelson racing engines does with a darth vader theme.
      Ask what Butler does to paint there engines. The proper primer/paint/clear option will fore sure last if done correctly no matter what color you decide on.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      Bakersfield, CA
      Posts
      603
      Country Flag: United States
      Butler is building my engine and they won't paint custom colors, hence why I'm on my own. Probably for the best so I know it's done to my standards for this build.
      http://www.TheFOAT.com/92GTA
      1969 Pontiac Firebird
      w/535ci IAII aluminum block, Dailey dry sump, Holley EFI (full road race build). Primer black w/black interior.
      1992 Pontiac Trans Am GTA w/SLP Performance Package. Dark Jade Grey Metallic, grey leather, T-Tops.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Apr 2015
      Location
      GA
      Posts
      47
      Country Flag: United States
      I was told before that zinc chromate is the best primer for aluminums.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      corona,ca.
      Posts
      1,078
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by tm5nardo View Post
      I was told before that zinc chromate is the best primer for aluminums.
      I don't think the paint company's sell the primer with the chromate anymore???
      Call a rep and find out for sure.
      72 chevelle.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Sep 2008
      Location
      Jacksonville, Florida
      Posts
      629
      Country Flag: United States
      Axalta 2580CR. CR is is for the zinc chromate. Best epoxy primer available, and I use it on everything!

      Craig Scholl
      CJD Automotive, LLC
      Jacksonville, Florida
      904-400-1802
      www.cjdautomotive.com

      "I own a Mopar, I already know it won't be in stock, won't ship tomorrow, and won't fit without modification."






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