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    Results 21 to 27 of 27
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Feb 2015
      Posts
      17
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by brrymnvette View Post
      I have about $2500 set aside for the suspension on my 67 el camino. As it sits currently it has poly bushings throughout, boxed rear control arms, boxed frame, stock everything else. My father started a frame off resto and it's all new steering and suspension, just stock. I will be LS2/6l90e swapping it this year. I want to do a 9" rear too. My plan is to drive my kids to hockey practice and enjoy it on twisty back roads. I keep reading conflicting info on of front coilovers are a good idea or not. I'm not sure how to know if one brand upper/lower front control arms are better than the other to justify the hundreds of dollars in price difference (QA1 vs DSE)
      First suggestion is to remove all the poly from the rear control arms. They just make it bind.

      As far as the front it depends on if you want a show car front suspension. If so buy a kit from a vendor. If you don't care to wax your control arms one can make your car handle just as well with parts from the Speedway catalog. I'm more familiar with G bodies but the A's need the same improvements. The part numbers are just different.

      Speedway also has sphericals for the rear control arms that will allow the rear end to articulate without binding.

      For some backroads driving there is no need for coil overs.

    2. #22
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      Philipsburg, Pa
      Posts
      528
      Country Flag: United States
      $2500

      The most important front geometry is to get some spindle height whether through tall ball joints or a tall spindle. At UMI we've been using the Speedway 2" drop spindle as it's also +1.75" taller. The UMI 4056-1 arm is a good fit with that spindle.

      Add some Viking front c/o at 550 lb rate.

      For the rear, our c/o work great but aren't easily compatible with an eventual 9". You can use our 2" drop springs and some Viking shocks out back.

      Add sway bars on both ends and you're set for around the cost you're mentioning.

      Hit us at [email protected] with any questions.

      ramey
      Technical Support
      UMI Performance, Inc.
      [email protected]
      814.343.6315

      Join us on Facebook!

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      St Louis, MO
      Posts
      373
      Quote Originally Posted by UMI Tech View Post
      $2500

      The most important front geometry is to get some spindle height whether through tall ball joints or a tall spindle. At UMI we've been using the Speedway 2" drop spindle as it's also +1.75" taller. The UMI 4056-1 arm is a good fit with that spindle.

      Add some Viking front c/o at 550 lb rate.

      For the rear, our c/o work great but aren't easily compatible with an eventual 9". You can use our 2" drop springs and some Viking shocks out back.

      Add sway bars on both ends and you're set for around the cost you're mentioning.

      Hit us at [email protected] with any questions.

      ramey

      You talking about this spindle? https://www.speedwaymotors.com/G-Com...le,103274.html


    4. #24
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      Philipsburg, Pa
      Posts
      528
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by brrymnvette View Post
      Yes, that exact p/n is for a single though.

      Technical Support
      UMI Performance, Inc.
      [email protected]
      814.343.6315

      Join us on Facebook!


    5. #25
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      453
      Country Flag: United States
      Here's for both: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/G-Com...ars,80737.html

      Wish I'd known about these when doing my suspension, would have saved money on dropped spindles AND taller ball joints. Speaking of ball joints, 0.5" lower balljoints will lower the car another 1/2" BUT will completely eliminate bumpsteer. Driving around with stock suspension the steering wheel would about rip out of my hand going over bridge abutments, it was a shock first time it happened. Now the car drives better than my DD.

      I cannot express how much of a change you will get by going with taller balljoints or spindles. My setup completely changed the driving characteristics of the car. Before I was getting +3 degrees of positive camber on compression. Tires were literally pushing out into the wheel wells and smoking when I was running autocross for fun.

      These are pictures that Tim King from UMI/Lateral G took of me on course embarrassing myself @ 2019 Summit Autorama in Atlanta. After that trip I put suspension upgrades at top of my list and man, what a difference.

      https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...unds&crop=fill

      https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...unds&crop=fill

      https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...unds&crop=fill

      https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...unds&crop=fill

      This was my upper wheel well after that trip, I was smelling rubber during my runs but just assumed it was the rear tires, not the front.

      https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...unds&crop=fill

      Stock suspension, removed sway bar, spring, shock, with suspension drooping I zeroed out angle finder, then compressed the suspension. Full +3.5 degrees from full droop to full compression

      https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...unds&crop=fill

      Here's a windshield wiper view of the run, you can see the car lurching as the front tires were grabbing the wheel wells: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KojEWB45AUo

      Now w/ correct geometry I'm getting -3 degrees of camber during compression, car handles great and I'm driving it like I stole it. I just need to get better tires on it, Cooper Zeon are great, but 500 treadwear isn't good for track days.

      https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...unds&crop=fill

      Sorry for the photobucket links.

      Here's an after, still need better tires but have brakes and suspension sorted: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TIiIjNOkxM
      *Jeff*
      Project Salty - 1964 4 door Malibu, beaten, neglected, red headed foster child
      Cammed LQ4 / T56 Swap Project Thread <-click to read! 😁

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      Colorado high country
      Posts
      27
      Country Flag: United States
      Lots of great suggestions in this thread. My suggestion is to DEFINITELY spend your money first on the front suspension. Adding positive caster, getting a good negative camber curve, and eliminating bump steer will transform how much fun it is to drive you elco. After front suspension I'd spring for a Turn One steering box.

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Martinez, CA
      Posts
      184
      Country Flag: United States
      I have Hotchkis upper and lower control arms front and rear. I didn’t weigh them but I can tell you they are substantially heavier than the stock components.
      And looking back at my project, I would start with a Lee 12:1 steering box with a 30 lb valve. Then I would really-ask the suspension question with my new available balance. Steering boxes are absolute game changers in these cars.
      Worlds Fastest LFX powered 1966 Chevelle, with a 3.6L/217 CI, 4 cam direct injected V6, 6 speed auto, full Hotchkis suspension, 4 wheel Wilwood discs, white w/red interior, cowl hood. 3260 lbs w/full tank. Built for 35 mpg. So far 32.

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