1970 GTO Version 3.0

[andrewb70]

Andrew, I tried messaging you, but it says your inbox is full.

Try again.

[andrewb70]

Youre a smart cookie, I think you should consider a Viair 10000 air compressor / tank combo for boost control and the holley. Put a 2psi spring in and take 100% full advantage of boost by gear(really its just boost by speed). You can also run an accordian hose to touch up tire pressure when needed. Ive ran the Viair 10000 for 7 years or so now and never once had an issue. Boost response with air vs manifold pressure is night and day.

Thanks Matt,

I am trying to keep things simple. If boost control with manifold pressure proves to be unreliable or finicky, I will consider a compressor.

Andrew

[andrewb70]

Happy New Year Everyone!

Not much to report on the build. Seems like parts are backordered everywhere and now the weather is cold.

I did get an update on my turbo build from Reed at Work Turbo. Here are some details that he posted on his Instagram account.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CYC0x1ePsIF/

Andrew

[wfo guy]

I am unfamiliar with Work Turbo. What is the logic for using them?

[STREETFIGHTER50]

Happy New Year! ��

[andrewb70]

I am unfamiliar with Work Turbo. What is the logic for using them?

Reed has been around the turbo game for a long time and came very well recommended. I wanted someone who I can speak with, who had a lot of experience, and who would work with me to get the turbo that I wanted. It's certainly more expensive than a Chinese turbo, but as you can see from the pictures and the description that he posted, his turbos are hand assembled. Also, if anything ever goes wrong, I can send it back to be serviced.

Andrew

[andrewb70]

Happy New Year Everyone!

My wife and I had a lovely trip to Texas after Christmas and on the way back on New Years Day, we were greeted with 15 degree temperatures. Today was even colder with morning temps at 10 degrees, so I thought it would be a good time to take advantage of that.

My Holley mid-mount accessory drive system came with an ATI two-piece balancer, which has a separate hub that get pressed on the crank. Given that this hub is solid steel, I saw no reason why I couldn't heat it up and slide it on the crank without the need to use a press on tool. The new Molnar crank also has a key, so aligning the hub was critical.

I got the hub from the garage and set the oven to 250 degrees.



One hour later, I took the hub out. My BBQ gloves worked great for this.



I ran out to the garage, aligned the key on the crank with the slot in the hub, pushed the hub on, and it stopped about 1/8" of the way on the crank...

Well, poop...



Sent a message to a buddy and he assured me that 400 degrees was safe for the crank seal. So I set the oven on 375 (just to be safe) and left the hub to "bake" for one hour. Took it out again, ran to the garage, aligned the key with the slot and bang! It slipped all the way on the crank and stopped at the oil pump.



This was too easy.

Andrew

[79 Camaro]

10 degrees? MN folks are still in shorts with those temps.
-23 here this with a high of -9 today.
But it's a dry cold.

[STREETFIGHTER50]

This reminds me of when changing gears out of rotary compressor air-ends

[wfo guy]

Decades ago, I worked at a pvc plant. We had a small oven for q.c. purposes that was set at 375 degrees. I used to heat bearings all the time. That does spoil you in short order. There were times that I would have to sprint almost 100 yards from the oven to the equipment being repaired to do the install. Some of those bearings were serious money and beating on something is almost never good. I'm glad your install went well.

[CarlC]

Decades ago, I worked at a pvc plant. We had a small oven for q.c. purposes that was set at 375 degrees. I used to heat bearings all the time.

Making a tangent.......

375*? Woof.....

My first career of 28 years was in the bearing world. 250*F max. Above that and bad things happen unless very specific and expensive heat treatment processes are performed to the rings and rolling elements.

Not everyone has these tools, but they are very handy:

https://www.google.com/search?q=bear...40PEPxIC72Aw22

[andrewb70]

Here is the finished turbo:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CYkNEcnpQui/

Andrew

[Larry R]

You are making good progress Andrew.

[andrewb70]

You are making good progress Andrew.

Slowly but surely!

Last weekend I was in Alabama, helping my friend Tom do some wiring on his LT1 swapped 2004 BMW M3, and while I was gone, my turbo arrived. I got home yesterday and it is absolutely a piece of amazing technology. Here are some detailed pictures:


















Andrew

[Motown 454]

Sweet! Eye candy

[STREETFIGHTER50]

Nice!

[ryeguy2006a]

Looks great Andrew! Big piece of your puzzle right there.

[Way2qwk4u]

You don't have it installed yet? :-) Looking good too. Hope to see it in soon.

[andrewb70]

Sweet! Eye candy

The workmanship is top notch.

Nice!

Yes!

Looks great Andrew! Big piece of your puzzle right there.

For sure...but still have a few big ticket items to purchase.

You don't have it installed yet? :-) Looking good too. Hope to see it in soon.

Long way from installing the turbo. Don't even have my hotside kit yet.

However, I did receive another important part of the puzzle. I still plan to use the Rick's RestoMod tank, but with the extra fueling demands of the turbo engine, a single ZL1 Camaro pump module was not going to cut it. I was on the Deatchworks website, and I saw their new dual pump drop-in module for the 5th gen Camaro. I spoke with Carl at vaporworx about this, and he came through as always.

Carl flow tested the module and came up with a dual pump controller that will both stage the pumps as well as pwm modulate them for a truly returnless fuel system. This keeps large volumes of fuel from circulating back into the tank and will keep fuel temperatures down when under light load conditions. I can't say enough good things about the work that Carl does!












The pump outlet will consist of a -8AN hose, going through a Holley 10 micron filter, through a Motion Raceworks high flow flex fuel sensor holder, and then to the 1/2" stainless line that is already runs along the length of the frame.

Andrew

[Kenova]

Andrew

Why Andrew, what small hands you have!

Ken