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    Results 81 to 100 of 786
    1. #81
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,567
      Country Flag: United States
      That's going to be nice. I wish they made a kit for the LSA.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    2. #82
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Motown 454 View Post
      That's going to be nice. I wish they made a kit for the LSA.
      I am actually surprised they don't. They have kits for the LT4/5...

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    3. #83
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Austin, Tx
      Posts
      495
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Motown 454 View Post
      That's going to be nice. I wish they made a kit for the LSA.
      What about this one from Wegner?

      https://www.wegnerautomotive.com/dri...harged/wak053/
      Bryan (a.k.a. Carbuff)

      70 Camaro RS Hunk'o'Metal - Previous Project
      71 Firebird Project T.O.W. - New Project

    4. #84
      Join Date
      May 2012
      Location
      Kansas City, Missouri
      Posts
      665
      Country Flag: United States
      I need to sit outside ur house and wait for the ups guy. I could be a porch pirate lol. Nice pile of parts

    5. #85
      Join Date
      Apr 2020
      Posts
      94
      The Holley Mid Mount setup is really, really nice. I could not be more pleased with mine.

    6. #86
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by _BQ View Post
      The Holley Mid Mount setup is really, really nice. I could not be more pleased with mine.
      I'm pretty excited about it. The goal is to have functional AC...finally...after 20 years of being "done" with the build...lol

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    7. #87
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Some of the upgrade parts are rather mundane. I have always had manual brakes on the GTO, but as the goal for the update is to make the car a little more refined and improver driver comfort, I will be adding power, vacuum assisted brakes.

      This is the new MC that I purchased from Tobin at Kore3. Tobin has always been selfless in his sharing of information and back in 2008 I ordered the C6 Z06 front brakes from him. This is the 1" bore RHD S10 master cylinder that I plan to mate with a Tuff Stuff 9" dual diaphragm booster and a DSE reduced angle firewall mount.





      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    8. #88
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      206
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Seems like my plans were pretty obvious, given the parts collection...

      As I stated before, the purpose is to update and refine certain aspects of the car. The Holley swap components and the vaporworx controller are an essential part of that.

      I do have some other things that will be upgraded as well, but y'all will just have to wait and see.

      Andrew
      Is that pwm controller similar to the Aeromotive controller?

      I ask as the Aeromotive in-tank pump on my Bird died (Stealth unit) and I replaced the pump component - I moved from 4bbl Holley carb to Holler Sniper. Spoke with Aeromotive and they indicated pump may have expired due to heat buildup (running a 10 micron Russell filter) pre-Sniper.

      Trying to determine how best to ensure the new pump stays alive. Would a PWM or Aeromotive controller in your opinion help?

      Running a Tanks Inc., with the pump in-tank.

      Cheers,
      Brian.

    9. #89
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Waleska Ga.
      Posts
      2,710
      Country Flag: United States
      Just wondering what made you want to go to a power brake setup?
      I'm at a point in my build of my elcamino that I'm trying to decide to go manual or power.
      I also have the C6 vette brakes front and rear, i was originally going with manual but I'm building this as more of a everyday driver.
      I like the brakes to be predictable an not touchy like some vacuum or hydyboost systems can be.
      Thanks for sharing
      David Sloan

      If you’re suggesting sending men with weapons of war to take my weapons of war,then I’m fairly certain that’s what’s called an act of war… and the definition of tyranny.which coincidentally is the reason for the second amendment to begin with!


      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ght=fun+camaro

      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...lcamino-build!

    10. #90
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by gto406 View Post
      Is that pwm controller similar to the Aeromotive controller?

      I ask as the Aeromotive in-tank pump on my Bird died (Stealth unit) and I replaced the pump component - I moved from 4bbl Holley carb to Holler Sniper. Spoke with Aeromotive and they indicated pump may have expired due to heat buildup (running a 10 micron Russell filter) pre-Sniper.

      Trying to determine how best to ensure the new pump stays alive. Would a PWM or Aeromotive controller in your opinion help?

      Running a Tanks Inc., with the pump in-tank.

      Cheers,
      Brian.
      Hi Brian,

      Thanks for following along and the question. To be honest, I don't know anything about the Aeromotive controller. Your best bet is to contact Carl at vaporworx and ask him. I think he is actually following along, so perhaps he will post an answer for you. Also, if you need help tuning the Sniper EFI system, please keep me in mind.

      Andrew

      Quote Originally Posted by David Sloan View Post
      Just wondering what made you want to go to a power brake setup?
      I'm at a point in my build of my elcamino that I'm trying to decide to go manual or power.
      I also have the C6 vette brakes front and rear, i was originally going with manual but I'm building this as more of a everyday driver.
      I like the brakes to be predictable an not touchy like some vacuum or hydyboost systems can be.
      Thanks for sharing
      Hi David,

      For the record, I never had issues with the manual brakes. The reason for going with power brakes is to have a nice soft pedal feel and also to provide more pressure to the brakes. I am hoping to increase braking performance, while also reducing pedal effort.

      I think the reason for very touchy pedal feel when using power brakes is that the MC is too big. This is a 1" bore MC and should match very well to the C6z06 brakes that I am using.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    11. #91
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      270
      Those Holley accessory drive kits are very nice! I think Holley everything so far is very nice, actually. Wouldn’t the AC system have better clearance with the low mount?
      1968 Cougar - 408, FiTech, AOD, TCI, Currie, RideTech, Wilwood
      1968 Skylark - 462, TKO 600, RideTech, CPP
      1985 Mustang - 04 Cobra/Terminator Swapped
      1988 Mustang - Vortech V3, Boss 327, Magnum, MaximumMotorsports, StopTech

    12. #92
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post

      I think the reason for very touchy pedal feel when using power brakes is that the MC is too big. This is a 1" bore MC and should match very well to the C6z06 brakes that I am using.

      Andrew
      I've also found "touchy" power brakes can be the result of an incorrectly sized vacuum booster for the given system.

      The math to calculate how much "boost" is being applied is (vacuum at idle) x (booster diameter) x (number of diaphragms)...not sure what units that gives you.
      Wilwood recommends a minimum of 18 inches of vacuum at idle and an 8 inch diameter booster. With a dual diaphragm booster, that gives you 288 units of boost. As you can see, if you go to a 9 inch or larger booster, it would be very easy to end up with more boost than you need and have some very touchy brakes.

      Just as an example (of under performing brakes), the brakes on may '72 Suburban always required way more effort than they should have for a given amount of braking. You could stop the truck on a dime, but you had to stand on the pedal. I found that I was only pulling 15 inches of vacuum at idle, and because I had retained the factory 11 inch, SINGLE diaphragm booster, I was only seeing 165 units of boost.

      I fixed the problem by swapping to a dual diaphragm 11 inch booster which increased the boost to 330 units. This instantly solved the problem. The pedal effort is right in line with that of my 2016 4Runner, with easy modulation and excellent stopping power in the big truck. I also swapped to some Wilwood "E compound" pads for a little more initial bite.

      As you can see, if you're running too big of a booster for your application, you could easily find yourself in the opposite scenario where your brakes are waaayyyy too touchy.

      Hope that helps!


      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    13. #93
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Newbury Park, CA
      Posts
      5,821
      Country Flag: United States
      The Aeromotive pwm controller uses engine RPM (spark) to set the pump speed. It also requires an external return-type regulator.

      Unlike true returnless systems, there must be sufficient duty cycle to press open the mechanical regulator (diaphragm + spring) and have return fuel. Basically, since RPM is the control signal, the system must overdrive during idle and cruise since there is no actual demand feedback (pressure sensor), and the pump(s) will run full speed on downshifts ==> no fuel demand + high engine RPM.

      When using a mechanically regulated system (return) at 60psi, then switching to returnless PWM, means at least a 50% reduction in power to the pump. The Stealth 340 PWM's quite nicely as well. The basic kit that works with a single Stealth 340 is this, just remove the GM fuel module plug and attach to your hat + follow the Aeromotove instructions for PWM control: https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/product/pwzl13b-tm/ For dual pumps, only one Aeromotive bypass hole needed: https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/product/pw3bdti267/

      There are a bunch of variables, but the RPM controlled systems are not nearly as efficient as fuel pressure feedback/returnless systems. There's lots of info to put you to sleep here: https://www.vaporworx.com/resources/
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    14. #94
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by FLYNAVY53 View Post
      I've also found "touchy" power brakes can be the result of an incorrectly sized vacuum booster for the given system.

      The math to calculate how much "boost" is being applied is (vacuum at idle) x (booster diameter) x (number of diaphragms)...not sure what units that gives you.
      Wilwood recommends a minimum of 18 inches of vacuum at idle and an 8 inch diameter booster. With a dual diaphragm booster, that gives you 288 units of boost. As you can see, if you go to a 9 inch or larger booster, it would be very easy to end up with more boost than you need and have some very touchy brakes.

      Just as an example (of under performing brakes), the brakes on may '72 Suburban always required way more effort than they should have for a given amount of braking. You could stop the truck on a dime, but you had to stand on the pedal. I found that I was only pulling 15 inches of vacuum at idle, and because I had retained the factory 11 inch, SINGLE diaphragm booster, I was only seeing 165 units of boost.

      I fixed the problem by swapping to a dual diaphragm 11 inch booster which increased the boost to 330 units. This instantly solved the problem. The pedal effort is right in line with that of my 2016 4Runner, with easy modulation and excellent stopping power in the big truck. I also swapped to some Wilwood "E compound" pads for a little more initial bite.

      As you can see, if you're running too big of a booster for your application, you could easily find yourself in the opposite scenario where your brakes are waaayyyy too touchy.

      Hope that helps!


      This is excellent information. I plan to use a dual diaphragm 9" booster and my engine vacuum will be about 15in/hg. Hopefully that won't have an over boosted feel.

      Quote Originally Posted by CarlC View Post
      The Aeromotive pwm controller uses engine RPM (spark) to set the pump speed. It also requires an external return-type regulator.

      Unlike true returnless systems, there must be sufficient duty cycle to press open the mechanical regulator (diaphragm + spring) and have return fuel. Basically, since RPM is the control signal, the system must overdrive during idle and cruise since there is no actual demand feedback (pressure sensor), and the pump(s) will run full speed on downshifts ==> no fuel demand + high engine RPM.

      When using a mechanically regulated system (return) at 60psi, then switching to returnless PWM, means at least a 50% reduction in power to the pump. The Stealth 340 PWM's quite nicely as well. The basic kit that works with a single Stealth 340 is this, just remove the GM fuel module plug and attach to your hat + follow the Aeromotove instructions for PWM control: https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/product/pwzl13b-tm/ For dual pumps, only one Aeromotive bypass hole needed: https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/product/pw3bdti267/

      There are a bunch of variables, but the RPM controlled systems are not nearly as efficient as fuel pressure feedback/returnless systems. There's lots of info to put you to sleep here: https://www.vaporworx.com/resources/
      Thanks for chiming in Carl. I knew you would explain it much better than I could.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    15. #95
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      Andrew, also verify your pedal ratio is correct for a boosted application. If you're going from a manual brake system to boosted, and don't change the pedal ratio, you'll have issues. I imagine there are two holes on the factory brake pedal, one for manual and one for boosted, just make sure the master cylinder pushrod is connected to the correct hole.

      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe


    16. #96
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Posts
      63
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by FLYNAVY53 View Post
      Andrew, also verify your pedal ratio is correct for a boosted application. If you're going from a manual brake system to boosted, and don't change the pedal ratio, you'll have issues. I imagine there are two holes on the factory brake pedal, one for manual and one for boosted, just make sure the master cylinder pushrod is connected to the correct hole.
      Same set up I ran on my GTO worked perfectly.

    17. #97
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by FLYNAVY53 View Post
      Andrew, also verify your pedal ratio is correct for a boosted application. If you're going from a manual brake system to boosted, and don't change the pedal ratio, you'll have issues. I imagine there are two holes on the factory brake pedal, one for manual and one for boosted, just make sure the master cylinder pushrod is connected to the correct hole.
      Yes Sir. I have two holes in the pedal and right now I am using the upper hole. Will swap the rod down to the lower hole when going to power assisted brakes.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    18. #98
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      You should be perfect then! With 15" vacuum and the 9 inch booster, I don't think you'll have any issue with "twitchy" brakes. Not sure what calipers you're running, but I cant overstate how happy I am with the Wilwood "E compound" pads as a performance street pad.

      Looking forward to the updates!!
      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    19. #99
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Hamilton, NJ
      Posts
      4,291
      Country Flag: United States
      Loving this thread.

      Andrew, what's the part number on that MC?
      Scott from NJ.

      Vent Windows Forever! ...

      Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
      I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors

    20. #100
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      696
      Hey Andrew I have a question about the pedal ratio. So in my 69 Camaro, I also have 2 holes (top) for Manuel and bottom for power brakes. I modified my master booster mount to 3 degrees which is what DSE reduced angle mount is. The question is, shouldn’t we use the upper (Manuel) hole because of the reduced angle? If we use the lower hole, the angle will be different and might hurt the master, no? That’s at least my thinking. I could be wrong.

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